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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Hadlock posted:

Crimp connections can loosen or corrode

But soldering isn't trouble free either in cars right?

Also, anyone tried using brake fluid to "bleach" colored parts like turning indicator lamps. I don't really wanna try since I like the factory original orange. I just thought it sounded cool.

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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I would run a 50/50 blend of R290 and R600a, propane and isobutane. They're not going anywhere. I've used those in my cars, though I've stopped trying now because it keeps leaking out, mine are in too bad a shape, but apparently if you don't let it get too bad, they have a positive effect on small leaks and old o-rings. They're flammable, but it's also not a lot.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Water's leaking into the trunk area of my Saab 900, looks like the seals around the right taillight is the reason. Anyway I found that water has been seeping in under the rubber coating (sound deadening I guess) and from there getting under most of the mat. So I am scraping it away, it comes away in big chunks in places probably because the water made the glue release. I will have remove all the rust and repaint the area with epoxy primer.



My question is, what new sound deadening should I add? Is there a product or type of material to recommend?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I'm not sure I'm following you. I am definitely worried about covering this area again, because the sound deadening layer trapped water between it and the metal and caused. You can see the rust in the portions I had already scraped away, those where hidden under the mat. I don't want a repeat of that.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Park it in Alaska for a winter?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
This is what the fuel pump sounds like in my Saab 900, I can hear it inside the cabin when idling. I don't think its meant to be this loud? Time for a new one?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kr6LtY87zSc

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Hey does there exist for cars a thing like a... I don't know, I am imagining a self-retracting strap that you can pull out and loop around grocery bags or whatever in your trunk. Almost like a seat belt but for groceries (and stuff). Something you can buy and screw into the sides of the trunk area.

My Mazda 6 has got something like this from factory but it's not very long, but I can still use it to make sure grocery bags don't go flying around back there. It's been super handy. Now I got a lot of trunk space in my 900 but things like to slosh about back there easily.

I'm sure there's a product or several for this, I just don't know what to google for.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I was thinking more of straps like this, My idea is something like this attached to the side, you just pull it out and loop it around the grocery bags, or perhaps around the loops of the bags, and then back to an attachment point. You could have several straps or attachment points and really strap in just about anything, not just groceries and when not in use it retracts automatically to the side and isn't in the way.

https://loadall.com/products/g3-cargobuckle-2-pack

I really feel I am onto something here.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I'm so glad I don't have to deal with that BS. Common problem on my model of car but the PO actually did the job for me. And a pretty decent effort too.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
You could 'flush' it. Basically drive 1000-2000km and do another oil and filter change.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Yeah it's incredible what a difference it makes to have half beams on, or some other position lights, compared to a car driving dark, the difference in noticeability is so staggering I am surprised anyone would drive without lights.

In Sweden iirc cars are made so they cannot run dark, even if you turn the selector to off the parking lights still shine when the car is running. Same on modern cars in Finland, though my old rear end from 1990 car can be made to run dark, but I dunno why you would want to? I just leave the half beams on, it's automatic so I never have to think about it, it's better than my other car which is 20 years newer in that respect. Cars even look better with some lights on.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

mobby_6kl posted:

What if I want to follow someone without being detected

Paint the car tiger striped

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
A thing on both the mazda and toyota I got is that the dash lights up more strongly if you run with the half beams off. I dunno why that is. And when I say half beams "off" I mean as in the switch is in the off position, the lights still come on. Both front and rear.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

PainterofCrap posted:

Any salvage yards in your area?

lol my first read of this was "turn the car in for scrap"

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Cactus Ghost posted:

what sort of things beyond routine listed-in-the-manual maintainace should i keep an eye out for on a 20-year old manual transmission car? I know to keep an eye on the boots for the various greased things, the axle cvs and the ball joints and stuff. i know to keep an ear out for noisy wheel bearings. What else?

I ask because while ive had old cars before, i was poor and they were poo poo, so i basically just drove them until something failed catastrophically

Based on my own experiences.

Drain and replace the gearbox oil, do a flush (replace the oil, drive a few miles and replace it again).

Drain and replace the coolant. You can also put in a special cleaning agent and flush the system of debris and coolant before putting in new coolant.

You could also drain and replace the brake fluid and power steering fluid.

Coolant in particular ages and looses it's anti corrosive properties so I feel that's worthwhile to replace if you don't know how old it is.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Why do I keep finding sockets on bolts in my cars engine compartment? I found a 12mm socket sitting pretty securely on a bolt near the bottom of the radiator.

It's not the first time I have found a socket like that, and near the radiator both times.

Did the previous owners just forget? What's going on?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Apparently there's a product called windshield protection film nowadays you can buy. Is it of any use or completely bunk?

I would really like to get some protection for new windshields on two of my cars. I am not talking about protecting from impacts like a flying rock but the general, low level abrasion that happens from regular driving, at last where I live, particularly during winter.

I'm super careful about having enough wiper fluid and replacing the wipers yearly even if they look fine but it has not been enough.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

mobby_6kl posted:

My 20 year old glass is pretty pitted to the point it's annoying if the sun hits it at just the right angle. Still probably not a very reasonable solution lol.

IMO a 20 year old windshield is probably harder wearing than the new ones I got, seems newer windshields just keep getting worse and getting messed up faster.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Clay bar trick is definitely worth a try.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Yeah there ain’t much you can do other than undercarriage coating. Just wash it regularly when it gets warm.

I’ll echo that it’s also a drivers car so if properly maintained and not rusted to poo poo it will be fine. If you can garage it that makes a huge difference.

Garaging a car that's driven daily is generally considered here to be less good for the car than letting it stay outside but under a roof, as a garage melts snow and ice that accumulates on the car. Creating a moist environment that together with salt can result in a nasty combo for a car. Unless the garage is very well ventilated.

As for keeping a car against salt, yearly or bi-yearly corrosion treatment of the undercarriage and inside hollows. Since my cars are old and I do it myself I nowadays use raw linseed oil in the summer months, but a more modern car would use whatever the factory specifies or the warranty won't cover it.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I grew up with an unheated garage but if you have a heated garage it should be well ventilated.

You can do a carport or whatever but I don’t really trust them to not blow away or get otherwise hosed up on to your car.

My garage has a built in carport like this, common configuration here, though in retrospect I wish it had been a garage area too because I can never have enough indoor area.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
No that's a common style of garage here because people don't want to park their cars indoors in winter. For reasons mentioned.

And stop being such an aggro goon.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Where do you live, out of curiosity? I’m from a fairly cold and snowy place and everyone put their car inside if possible. That style is not really a thing here. Much more common to have an unheated detached garage / shed / barn.

Finland, this is a common style in Finland and Sweden both.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

pmchem posted:

honest question -- why do people want to park outdoors in winter? I want to be indoors to avoid, say, frost (maybe not an issue in your area?)

The commonly held wisdom here is that it's best for your cars "health" to be outside because snow, salt and ice will melt indoors, which will create a high humidity environment with salt in it. Talking about warm garages now, cold garages are different and plenty of people park indoors in cold garages or sheds.

Block heaters are also basically universal here and they are often connected to an electric blower so the cabin is warm and toasty too. And then there's also Webasto and the like, so having your car outdoors doesn't mean you have to get into a frozen car. I got into a warm car today even though it was -7C and my car was outside. e: It's not strictly required though, putting a roof over the car means the windows don't frost over. I don't know why, something todo with physics.

My garage is heated and that's why I like this setup, the car I use daily is parked in the carport. My garage is warm and nice for when I need to work on cars and also houses a workshop with a lathe & mill and other tools that like the climate controlled environment.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

nadmonk posted:

Where I live gets proper snowy winters and while there are plenty of people that don't have garages, really everyone wants to park inside if they can. Most people don't have heated garages, but really it's because it saves you from having to brush off snow and scrape off frost/ice in the morning.

That said, the split indoor/outdoor garage posted above I can see a lot of uses for. A lot of people around here will build extensions off their pole barns that are like that. Open on the sides but protect from above. Usually stashing things like firewood, lumber, tractors, etc. Basically stuff you don't necessarily want inside, but still would like to protect from the elements.

One could condense it to covered but cold.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Personally I find driving old cars to be relaxing compared to a new, expensive car because it's an old cheap car, I don't have that much invested in it and beind older and cheaper I can have a much cheaper insurance, just a basic traffic insurance with towing and windshield coverage for 300€ a year. Being old enough I don't need to take it to expensive dealer service but the local shop where I have a guy I know and trust to not screw me over. I also find an older car to be easier to work on at home and have been actually buying older cars, not newer ones as time goes on.

I haven't found the cars I've driven to have been unreliable and most of the cars I buy are old cars, never stopped on the road, but. But I've kept to reliable japanese brands mostly and I have looked at them carefully before buying, including a documented service history. I try and get the lowest mileage specimens possible too.

The answer depends a lot on the car. If it was for example a Volvo V70 diesel from the mid 2000s I would say that car probably would likely do twice the miles yet without needing any major engine service.

In this case it's one particular car, a 2010 Honda Fit and I don't know anything about that and in my book a 2010 is even a quite new car... It does have a lot of miles on it for a gas powered car and I personally wouldn't buy a car like that for 5000. But I don't know what the market is like there but it is likely worse. For 5000 you could get the same car with half that mileage here. I can't even find a honda fit with that high a mileage for sale here. I would be skeptical to that particular car personally, but based on my own situation and what cars cost in my region.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Mr. Nice! posted:

Cash for clunkers destroyed the US used auto market for low end/older cars.

Feels like a directed act of class warfare.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Forgot the key in the ignition in my Yaris for two weeks straight, battery is dead now. I got a new battery a month ago, can leaving the key in the ignition cause this?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Pretty sure it was just in the initial lock position. I need to see if I got some parasitic discharging going on I guess. Wondering if it's that bluetooth thingy I got in the cigarette lighter.

I got an old school battery charger that loads depleted batteries that I tend to use more than my smart charger, so I'll do that when I get home today.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I broke the center tab of the front grille of my Saab 900, there are three tabs holding it to the frame on top. I tried to epoxy glue it but it was a weak bond. Someone on the last page mentioned plastic welding.

Do I need a special plastic welding tool for that or can I just go at it with a soldering gun?

Are there plastic welding rods too or do you just remelt the existing plastic together? Maybe it acts like a flux I was thinking, to make a stronger bond, since not all plastics like being melted or create a strong bond.

I was thinking of drilling a bunch of small holes earlier, and "sewing" it together with mig-wire or similar, then maybe epoxy all over that, I got some other metal epoxy stuff (devcon) that's a step up from the clear quick epoxy I was using. It's not gonna be visible anyway.

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Jan 5, 2024

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Korwen posted:

We're new to driving in areas where they salt the roads regularly. We just took a weekend trip and our car (2021 Mazda CX-5) is absolutely covered in salt and dirt (thanks Pittsburgh).

Having lived my life terrified of rust up to this point, when is the correct point to clean the car's exterior? Tomorrow it will be above freezing for part of the day, Tuesday it'll be above 40, and it'll be above freezing (and raining!) the rest of the week.

Consider treating the underside with something anti-corrosive, something oil based. That's done in summertime though.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I hate salt too, at least this year it's been too cold to use salt a lot of the time. Drove here this weekend, real nice driving conditions IMO. Zero need to salt this.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I recommend the MagnaVolt security system

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I got this red key / lever thing in my Saab 900 which is a car model notorious for being easily broken into, installed by the PO. It interrupts the ignition basically, take it with you and the car won't start even if you get into it and have the keys.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

22 Eargesplitten posted:

So you're saying the engine would have to work harder to spin the auto transmission so even at the same RPM it would be under heavier load? That would make sense. IDK anything about auto transmissions aside from most of them having lock-up torque converters by the late '80s to early '90s. I've just been thinking about them more since I'm trying to figure out if my SVX's auto got fried from losing a ton of fluid thanks to a hose backing off the radiator nipple.

The typical automatics on Saab 900s where three speed only vs manuals who where 5 speed, they also revved a lot higher than the manuals at cruising speed. Same story with the Saab 9000 and 2.3 engine, the latter 2.3 variants with manuals got some really good mileages (up to 39mpg), but only the manuals since the automatics revved a lot higher at highway cruising speeds.

I still prefer manuals and have only ever driven one automatic, which was US import firebird. Just for the simplicity and durability of the manual alone, even if I can no longer put fuel efficiency on the list.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Owned one auto, I can recall having driven two automatics. Both US cars. It does help that historically manual cars have been in the great majority.

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Jan 28, 2024

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Did it anyway, put down a tarp. Nowadays I use raw linseed oil so I don't care if it gets onto the gravel or not.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I used something called Dinitrol ML before, not an american product AFAIK. Which is very thin penetrating stuff, not the thicker bitumen stuff, I've never used that.

Raw linseed oil is cheap and environmentally friendly, it has very good penetrating properties and it oxidizes and forms a protective layer over what. So it's like two products in one. Has to be applied in summertime though so it can oxidize in the heat.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
That's something you can do yourself with the tools for changing a spare in the trunk even, no need to go back and pay them for 5 minutes work.

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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I have almost only run nothing but steel wheels and changed my own wheels 100% of the time always tightened by feel, always greased the bolts and also the contact surfaces for the wheel.

But I am considering buying a torque wrench right now. Looking at a cheapo 40-210 nm model. Possibly complement later with a heavier and lighter model if needed. But I'm gonna be doing some suspension work so I'd like to know I'm in the ballpark.

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