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melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS.

I was backing into a tiny garage (there's barely a few inches of clearance on both sides of the doorway), then this happened:




:suicide:

How difficult is it to replace a side view mirror? And roughly what kind of cost can I expect for an OEM replacement mirror?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Feb 15, 2015

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melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

InitialDave posted:

Normally pretty easy. The mirror is usually screwed on from the inside of the door, the screws being covered by a trim panel (the entire door card may need to come off to get access, it depends on the car). It's the kind of job you can knock out in under an hour if you know where all the clips/fasteners are.

The mirror cost from a dealer may be... significant. Ebay or a junkyard is likely a good option, and if you can find one the right colour in good condition (so it doesn't need paint) so much the better. I'd estimate $50-$70 for a good used one, but you'd need to check.
Ugh... I was scared that the actual replacement mirror would be expensive. And I'm not stranger to the local junkyard, bur since we're in the dead of the winter the junkyard is particularly not attractive to me, right now. Hopefully eBay will pull through. Hopefully it won't cost too much to pay a local garage to re-spray the side mirror into a matching colour?

Slavvy posted:

The small triangular black panel on the inside of the door opposite the mirror pries of. Start at the top. It may have a little tweeter built in, the plug will be tucked down behind the door card but you can tug it out and disconnect it (or just let the whole thing dangle). There are three 10mm nuts holding the mirror on with studs, there may also be a plastic clippy type thing that you just pull on to remove. The wiring for the mirror will have a connector down behind the door card, clipped to the skin. You can usually undo these without taking the door card off, but if you absolutely have to do it it's easy and simple.
Thanks for the really detailed instructions! Any tips for prying off that black panel without scratching the heck out of it? Because the only tool that I have that'll work is a slotted screwdriver.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Feb 15, 2015

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Slavvy posted:

You can actually take it off by hand; I do them at work all the time without a tool. Just wind the window down and be persistent with pulling at the edges.
I'll try that. Thanks.

Geoj posted:

You'd want to talk to a bodyshop about this. This is the kind of thing where if you were having the car sprayed for something else they'd probably throw it in for free, but considering auto paint is about as expensive as unicorn semen you're probably going to be looking at a minimum of $100 to have it professionally done.

Alternately, if your car is a relatively common color like black (kind of hard to tell from your picture if its black or forest green) you could probably do a passable rattle can job yourself.
My Elantra is a dark gray colour. But it isn't just "gray". It has a bit of... glitter. Well, not really glitter. But it's a subtle "sparkle" within the body paint. I'm not sure how I'd locate a spraypaint with a colour like that at a local hardware store. But in case I am I able to find it- what kind of primer is best for car paint?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Feb 15, 2015

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Just following up on my smashed side-mirror.


I tried to remove that black panel (circled in green). But had no luck getting it off after an hour of swearing and fighting with it. Then, I heard the crackle of plastic, so I stopped pulling at it. I tried pulling it off both by hand and through the use of a slotted screwdriver. but only the top corner was coming off.

Also- how do I determine if my sideview mirror is a heated one? Just asking for when I order a replacement piece online (there are heated and non-heated versions). I noticed two cables attached to the mirror glass's rear (circled in red). Does this indicate that the mirror is heated?


kastein posted:

Bring it to a shop.
:negative:

melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Feb 17, 2015

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

CharlesM posted:

Were you trying to get it off with the door open? Can't quite tell from the photo but the plastic may be pressed against the door frame. Heated mirror glass typically has the plugs in the back of the glass like that.

Slavvy posted:


You need to do that with the door and window open. See if you can get the screwdriver down to one of the securing lug things.

Huzzah! You were both right. All I had to do was open the door, then the panel finally came off. I was keeping it closed because of how cold it is outside. :haw:



thylacine posted:

And, once you get another mirror just spray paint them both black. That's what I did on my car when I got a non-matching salvage mirror. Nobody is the wiser.
That's a good idea. I'll do that.

Thanks to all of you guys for your help, on this. It's good to know that I won't have to get totally robbed by the local garage for this type of repair.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Just a follow-up issue with my broken sideview mirror (2009 Hyundai Elantra).

This is my current (broken) sideview mirror. Notice the hole for the fastener circled in green.



Here's my aftermarket replacement. It's missing that third hole. :suicide:


Should I return this replacement mirror? Or, is it still usable?

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

kastein posted:

:suicide:

*checks thread title*

hoo boy that sure is a stupid question. I am going to try to be nice here.

You're looking at the back of the mirror. And the other side of the thing it mounts to on the door. Those aren't things you compare. Note that there isn't a big round cutout around the electrical connector in the middle, either.
No, I think you've got it mixed up. The picture I posted isn't the back of the mirror. I've compared the old and new parts side-by-side, and the aftermarket replacement I got is definitely missing a hole for one of the panel's three fasteners.

Mister Kingdom posted:

What does the hole line up with?
The hole lines up with one of the three plug-style fasteners that are inside of the mirror's panel (which also houses the speaker). It's not pictured in the snapshot I linked, unfortunately. But the aftermarket part is definitely missing a third hole. :suicide:

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
A stupid question about bike racks. I have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I need to be able to transport two bicycles, so I'm looking for a bike rack. But this car doesn't have a trailer hitch of any sort (nor a roof rack), so those trailer-mounted bike racks aren't an option, for me. Can anyone tell me what my options are for aftermarket bike racks?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Oct 3, 2015

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
That looks perfect, and if Amazon's 'Check Fit' function is to be believed, it'll fit my Elantra just fine. Thanks very much for this link.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
A question about tires. I have four X-Ice winter tires. One of them had to be replaced due to a puncture that couldn't be repaired due to the puncture location.

So, I've got three tires with 5mm of tread left on them and one with 8mm.

I understand that tires with different tread shouldn't be mixed-and-matched then placed on the same vehicle. Should a difference like the ones described above be cause for concern?

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Slavvy posted:

I'm going to be nice and assume this is about your hyundai and not an audi RS4. No it won't make any difference at all, if you want to be super duper safe stick the brand new one on one of the back wheels.
Heh, it's the wife's 2007 Corolla LE. I'm content with placing it on the back wheels, so I'll go ahead and do that. Thanks!

InitialDave posted:

We need to know the vehicle to give a proper recommendation, and whether it is all wheel drive if that's not automatically clear from the make and model.

It is better to avoid mixing tread depths, but only certain cars will actually be damaged by having one tyre that's different.

The most likely advice is that is doesn't matter and, as Slavvy said, put the new one on a non-driven wheel.
As mentioned to Slavvy- 2007 Corolla LE. Nothing fancy. And I'll take Slavvy's advice on this one (and yours, too). Thanks, guys.

Cage posted:

I'm the only one that thought "Put it on the only drive wheel and Do A Burnout™"?

Get a camera.
Instructions unclear- drove car through garage door. Send help.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS.

I'm replacing my spark plug wires, and decided that I'll be going with an aftermarket brand (Hyundai dealership quoted me ~$160 CAD for complete set of OEM wires. :lol: )

Which brands are best, and which ones should be avoided? I found wires by Prestolite, Beck/Arnley, and Standard Motor Products on partsmonkey.com, but I haven't heard of any of those brands.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS.

Any tips for removing stuck spark plug wire boots? I'm trying to replace the old ones, and they're really stuck (red circled area). Can I just cut through the old boots and destroy them for the sake of removal?

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

zundfolge posted:

Twist them back and forth while pulling forcefully. They should come off.
Thanks for the advice! I had to use some pliers to (carefully) remove them. Took a while, but got them all off. :)

But, I noticed that my new spark plug wires (NAPA brand) seem to be about 1 inch longer than the old wires. They definitely have more slack. Is this normal with aftermarket spark plug wires? And yes, I've triple-checked to ensure that I've got them plugged in the right order!

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Dec 24, 2015

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Duckman2008 posted:

I'll have to consider personal maintenance for the future, I see what you're saying on prices. I'm just the opposite of a hands on person.
It's understandable. But the repairs that IOwnCalculus recommended are absolutely something that you can do on your own! And if you're warm to the idea of DIYing basic car repairs, the best thing to do is start out with the smaller stuff, because once you've done those you'll get a lot more comfortable with the idea of bigger projects. Start with wipers/car battery/air filters. Then try your own oil change. Then maybe look at flushing your brake lines. This how I, and many others, have started out. A lot of the guys in this very thread helped me out quite a bit.

Because not only will you save money, but you can be sure that the work was done properly and that quality parts/fluids were used. :)

melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Dec 30, 2015

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS + 2007 Toyota Corolla LE

A stupid question about oil changes. Is it okay to re-use the oil drain plug gasket, or are they as good as done after a single use?

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Is there any issue with using an opened (as in, unsealed but capped) jug of coolant that has been sitting in a garage through 2 winters? I'll be doing a coolant flush next week, and just want to know how far I can stretch some of my old, unused fluids.

Slavvy posted:

If it's not too deformed/squashed (as in if the person who put it in didn't over-tighten the plug) it's totally fine, have seen squillions of korean cars drive away with the original one (customers are cheap cunts) and no problems. This is only the case if you have the alloy crush washer type and only if you've already put it back in and can't be bothered loving around putting a new one in which is understandable. If you're doing an impending oil change just buy one at a shop or something they're standardised and super cheap. The toyota one is trickier because they have that blue papery stuff on the outside but they're also reusable without hassle with the same rules applying.
Yeah, I was a bit concerned about the Toyota's washer, so I just picked up a few while getting the other fluids. The Elantra's washer was in good enough condition, though! Thanks, Slavvy.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

SouthsideSaint posted:

Its fine as long as it's sealed well. And if your really worried pour it into a clear milk jug first to check it for debris and such. I have done this multiple times with coolant with no Ill effects. Except my kids thinking there's green juice in the garage and daddy is strange to keep to jugs of green juice. Which I tried to explain coolant to them but a five and three year old can't pay attention that long.
Eh, it's sealed kinda well. Just a hand-tightened cap. But I'll pour it into a clear non-drinking-or-else-it-will-kill-you jug to check for sediment or other debris. I was more worried about the fact that it sat in a non-climate controlled garage for ~2 years.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS

I'm replacing the gear oil (it has never been changed). And I'm pretty sure that this is the procedure that applies to my model.

Is there anything wrong with using an old handsoap pump connected to fuel line tubing to pump the new gear oil into the reservoir (pic below)? The bottle provided by the dealership is way too large to slither into the undercarriage and pour in like the video shows. Do I need to be concerned about this pump putting excess air into the gearbox, or something?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Apr 29, 2016

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
A question about flushing the coolant in a 2007 Hyundai Elantra + 2007 Toyota Corolla. Is it really necessary to use a radiator flush cleaner? Because my owner's manual recommends using regular water through garden hose, but most videos online suggest distilled water + some sort of coolant flushing fluid. I'm more inclined to believe my owner's manual.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Jul 1, 2016

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Godholio posted:

Either way is fine. The cleaner can help break down deposits that may have accumulated, but it's not strictly necessary. Hose water can leave deposits if you're using it to fill the system, but in a flush it's not a big deal. You're probably not leaving enough hose water in the system to cause any problems, but when you're done you want to fill it with distilled water (and coolant, obviously).

Gotcha, thanks! I'll just skip out on the radiator flush fluid, then.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
A stupid question about my '09 Hyundai Elantra GLS (5 speed manual transmission). I'm replacing the gear fluid, as shown in this Youtube video. I'm not quite sure which bolt I need to remove to empty and refill the fluid.



Is it A, or B? I thought it was A, but the bolt is on there really tight and I wanted to be 100% sure before I pull out the cheater bar. Hopefully the photo's orientation makes sense. The video indicates that a 17mm socket is needed, and both A + B are 17mm.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jul 2, 2016

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

tater_salad posted:

Probably neither those look like bolts attaching the transmission and engine, maybe that bolt just under a facing the camera? Id watch a few more videos and look at the location.
And that's one of the main issues- Hyundai's DIY community is pretty terrible (at least compared to when I was a Honda owner). That one video I linked is the only one that seems to show how to remove gear oil from a manual transmission, and even that one is for an older make. And of course, my owner's manual says nothing about replacing manual transmission fluid- it only talks about ATF.

Here's a top view from the opened hood. I thought that the bolt sticking out was the right one, but it turns out that it's the same 'A' as in the previous image. :downs:



EDIT: If this service manual is accurate, it looks like 'A' is the fill plug, and 'B' is the drain plug. I hope that's accurate. Because I'm going to do it. If I come back to this thread freaking out, then... you know how that went.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jul 2, 2016

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Thanks for all of your help with my Elantra's gear fluid replacement, dudes. My gear shifting is now silky-smooth. Here's what came out:


:barf:

I also found out the importance of placing wood beneath your jack stands + car jack before doing car work on your cheaply-paved driveway during a heatwave.


:downs:

(we were planning on re-doing our driveway next year, any way. So I found this funny more than anything else).

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
A tire question. I was putting on my Blizzaks, and noticed a small piece of sharp, twisted metal in its treads. Pulled it out, and noticed it sliced pretty deep into my tire (hard to show the extent of the cut in the below photo). It isn't leaking air, but obviously I don't want the cut to get any larger. What kind of quick repair options do I have for something like this?



EDIT: Won't worry about it, then. Thanks AI dudes. :hfive:

melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Nov 23, 2016

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Does anyone have experience with repairing malfunctioning power windows? 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. The issue affects the front passenger window only.

If you're pressing the buttons on the driver side's armrest, the power window buttons work normally. But if you press the buttons on the front passenger's armrest, it can pull the window down, but won't bring the window upward. Which could make for a really interesting trip through the car wash ("Aahhhh roll up the window! PRESS THE BUTTON FASTER!")

I suspect that the switch on the passenger side's button panel needs to be fixed/replaced. Am I correct in assuming this? Just trying to figure it all out before I disassemble the interior side of the door for a closer look.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Raluek posted:

Yep, passenger side switch needs to be either opened and filed clean, or just replaced. Dunno how easy that is to do in your particular car, but I'd expect the arm rest to come off/apart pretty easily.

spog posted:

That used to happen on some vauxhalls as the switch was horizontal, so when you gave the interior a clean, all the gunk would be washed into the switch membrane.

Easy to clean and get working again.


Thanks. I found this Youtube video on how to clean a power window switch. Hopefully my Elantra is at least somewhat similar!

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2007 Toyota Corolla LE

I'm replacing the brakelight bulb. I've heard that you need to add dielectric grease to the replacement bulb's connectors prior to inserting it into its new socket. Truth, or bullshit?
Here's the old bulb, if it helps any:

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
I have a stupid question about a car noise. 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Whenever I start up the car there's an ear-splitting squealing noise. So, I replaced both serpentine belts (it was overdue). But the squealing sound is still there. Observe (be warned- the squealing noise is loud)!

The noise happens when I start up the engine. And also when I change and move into the reverse gear. But when I'm cruising along, the sound goes away. When I replaced the belts, I tightened the tensioners so there's 1/4 inch of slack, which is what my Haynes manual recommended. But I also probably didn't do a very good job measuring the slack.

What could be causing this squealing? Maybe I need to tighten the belts some more?

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Just a follow up on my Elantra's squeaking sound. Fixed it! I had to:

wesleywillis posted:

Yeah, tighten that poo poo a bit more.

Thanks for suggesting fixes on it, guys.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:03 on May 28, 2017

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Manual transmission.

My reverse gear shift is giving me issues. It doesn't seem to shift into Reverse gear very well. Almost like it isn't fully "popping" into the reverse gear. Kind of stops halfway, and if I give gas while in this position it gives me the sickening grinding sound as if someone improperly shifted halfway into the gear.

Is this a sign of a worn/failing clutch? If so, how easy or difficult of a repair is this for a DIYer like me with below-intermediate knowledge of car repairs? I'm guessing that it's pretty major and not within my abilities. I replaced the transmission/gear fluid last Spring. Car's about 147,000km/91,000 miles.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Nov 15, 2017

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

spankmeister posted:

Probably shift linkage or shift fork issues
Those are new words to me so it sounds the repairs are beyond my (already limited) fixing capabilities. Normally I'd take a closer look myself, but my schedule over the next few days really sucks. Any thoughts as to how much $$ this might cost to fix?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Nov 15, 2017

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Geoj posted:

Are you completely unable to shift into reverse or will it go into gear after the car sits still for a few seconds/when shifting into reverse from a full stop?

Reverse is typically unsyncronized in modern manual transmissions so it's not uncommon to encounter difficulty shifting and grinding if you're shifting from a forward gear directly into reverse.
I was completely unable to shift into reverse. It was really odd, especially since I had no trouble at all going into gears 1 thru 5. :confused:

0toShifty posted:

Doesn't the manual elantra have a reverse lockout thing - like a ring just below the shift knob that you have to lift to get it into reverse? Is it going up all the way? Perhaps just this part of the linkage is screwy
Yes, that's exactly what it has! Like a cock ring for my gear shift (I HAD TO MAKE THINGS WEIRD). It feels the same as it ever was.

Gotcha. I'll take a closer look. Also, the problem just seemed to go away on its own. But maybe it's a sign that the linkage/cable is on its way out.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. My wife went to open the rear passenger door then this happened:



How annoying is this going to be for a DIY fix? Really surprised that this handle broke since it is the least-used handle. I'd imagine that all I'd have to do is open the door's inner-panel and remove/break some fasteners to get to the relevant components. On a related note I'm starting to dislike this Hyundai. Lots of little, but annoying things have been breaking apart despite my careful treatment of this vehicle.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Goober Peas posted:

Wait until you get to the end of the 10 year/100000 mile powertrain warranty (you're either close or over it already) if you want something to distract you from the little annoyances :haw:

Yeah I was thinking the exact same thing. All of these little things breaking is going to lead up to something bigger. I'm really considering selling this car by summer's end. I don't want to deal with its future problems.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Mar 18, 2018

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Stupid question about stupid brake drum shoes. How much more life do you guys figure these drum shoes have left? 2007 Corolla LE.



I'm hoping that they've got another 2 years left in them. Mostly because drum shoes are annoyingly difficult to replace and I'd like to put off this task for another summer.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Stupid questions about automotive coolant. 2007 Corolla and 2009 Elantra, in case it matters:
  • Can I use 99.6% distilled water instead of de-ionized water from the auto parts store to mix in with my coolant concentrate? Asking because there's a local water filtration store that sells distilled water for 17 cents per litre, which is stupid cheap compared to the deionized water from the local parts store.
  • How long does an opened container of coolant (1 pre-mixed, 1 concentrate) last after being opened? I have two bottles that I opened November 2016 and stored in the garage (live in Canada, so we get weather extremes).

\/ Alright cool man. Thanks.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jul 10, 2018

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Anyone here with experience buying cars for import from Japan? I came across this website called "carfromjapan.com". Unsure if it's legit. But holy hell do I want a Honda N Box (even though I'd encounter all sorts of hell getting replacement parts here in Canada).

This is probably a terrible idea.

\/ Dropping over to that thread. Thanks, my dude.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jul 30, 2018

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
2007 Corolla LE. I want to replace the old stereo with a newer one that has an AUX jack and other fancy poo poo (right now it's just CD player + AM/FM radio). How do I go about finding a compatible stereo setup for this old-rear end car?

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melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
A dumb "what would you do?" scenario. I'm selling my '09 Hyundai Elantra GLS because all sorts of little things are breaking on it (door handles, power window buttons, etc). And I feel like it's only a matter of time until the transmission shits itself because I swear Hyundais are on a timer and die once you're out of the warranty period.

My mom's got an old '98 Camry. Which, despite its age is holding up pretty well (tough to beat Toyota quality, even if it’s from the '90s). A serious tank of a vehicle. But some parts of her Camry are so rusted shut that they're almost impossible to work on.

tl;dr Would you replace an old as gently caress Camry with an '09 Elantra that seems to be a ticking maintenance bomb? I’ve taken care of my Elantra religiously but shoddy build quality is probably going to catch up, at some point.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Sep 5, 2018

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