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melon cat posted:Does anyone have experience with repairing malfunctioning power windows? 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. The issue affects the front passenger window only. Yep, passenger side switch needs to be either opened and filed clean, or just replaced. Dunno how easy that is to do in your particular car, but I'd expect the arm rest to come off/apart pretty easily.
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Dec 19, 2016 21:47
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Raluek posted:Yep, passenger side switch needs to be either opened and filed clean, or just replaced. Dunno how easy that is to do in your particular car, but I'd expect the arm rest to come off/apart pretty easily. That used to happen on some vauxhalls as the switch was horizontal, so when you gave the interior a clean, all the gunk would be washed into the switch membrane. Easy to clean and get working again.
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Dec 19, 2016 22:04
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Raluek posted:Yep, passenger side switch needs to be either opened and filed clean, or just replaced. Dunno how easy that is to do in your particular car, but I'd expect the arm rest to come off/apart pretty easily. spog posted:That used to happen on some vauxhalls as the switch was horizontal, so when you gave the interior a clean, all the gunk would be washed into the switch membrane. Thanks. I found this Youtube video on how to clean a power window switch. Hopefully my Elantra is at least somewhat similar!
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Dec 19, 2016 22:33
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Got a new used car. The cleaner they used to detail the inside smells like a fuckin hospital room, though. What's a good way to neutralize the odor inside an already clean car? I'm used to leather interiors that don't really keep smells, this is my first cloth interior car. It's p gross.
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Dec 20, 2016 01:05
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Thanks for the advice guys. The guy who's van it was didn't even *know* it had an alarm, much less how I managed to activate it. My co-worker has been driving it for 6 years and never had the alarm go off once. He was able to find the key fob at our warehouse(which he didn't know we even had) and drive it out to me. Beep, click, problem solved. Now I get to have a nice chat with the boss about how we maintain our vehicles. I'm sure that will go well, right?
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Dec 20, 2016 01:06
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M42 posted:Got a new used car. The cleaner they used to detail the inside smells like a fuckin hospital room, though. What's a good way to neutralize the odor inside an already clean car? I'm used to leather interiors that don't really keep smells, this is my first cloth interior car. It's p gross. Fabreeze and indian food.
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Dec 20, 2016 01:06
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Or an ozone generator.
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Dec 20, 2016 01:12
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spog posted:I know you can't say what the case was about, but can you reassure me that it wasn't some horrible crime involving a young person and a ditch? Insurance fraud
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Dec 20, 2016 02:12
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Idiot question, we hit a cold snap, drove to work without incident, like within seconds of pulling up to the work gate there was a very foul burning smell in my car, immediately parked, popped the hood, no smoke, no odor, went in to the office. About an hour later I started the car again, again, foul smell for about 30 seconds, maybe a minute, then went away. Drove home about 30 minutes without incident, car oddities, smell, anything. My working theory is that something dislodged into the heater or a bug crawled into it because of the cold or something. Anything I should be worried about if the smell came and went suddenly, there have been no other problems? Car is a Lexus SC430, 2003, a loving tank of a car for me at least. I'm the original owner, over the 13 years besides regular maintenance I have had the alternator go out and a coil go, brake line leak out and that's it, I've spent more on it's tires than repairing it. Three Olives fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 02:17
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Can you describe the smell beyond "foul"? Car heaters are fed by engine coolant that circulates through a tiny radiator under the dashboard which in most cars shouldn't exceed 200 F, especially in the winter...far too low to quickly burn anything that touches the core. If the source was something coming in contact with the heater core I would expect the smell to be more diffuse and persistent as whatever was causing the smell would be slowly roasting rather than quickly burning. Shot in the dark, but do all of your HVAC fan speeds work? Fan speed is typically controlled by sending the power for the fan through increasing levels of resistors on all but the highest speed, and often the resistor pack is located inside the HVAC ducts for cooling purposes. You may have smelled the resistor pack cooking off. Otherwise check all electronics, its possible you popped a fuse.
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Dec 20, 2016 03:46
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All fan speeds work, the smell was kind of like the smell when you put out a burning candle. Kind of? I would explain it more as burning organic matter than chemicals. I mean it was better than the smell of turning my home heater on for the first time this year but still bad enough to seriously notice.
Three Olives fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 04:29
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Perhaps your heater core is leaking intermittently and you're smelling coolant? Looks like that car uses a valve to shut off flow to the core when it's not calling for heat, so there won't be pressure or a leak when you aren't turning the temperature up.
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Dec 20, 2016 04:50
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His blower fan is burning up the motor. Replace the blower fan.
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Dec 20, 2016 05:14
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Did you change the transmission filter during any of the ATF changes? Or just do a drain/refill? Drain/refill only for sure at 30/90k. Pretty sure the filter was on the to-do list at 60k, but I can't find that service doc and given the rest of that dealership's work I wouldn't be surprised if they lied anyway. Guessing this means I should check with my mechanic about having that done?
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Dec 20, 2016 06:09
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astrollinthepork posted:Insurance fraud Thanks for the reassurance.
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Dec 20, 2016 11:14
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If my headlights dim when I use the power windows, that's a sign that my alternator is on it's way out right? I had AutoZone do an alternator test, and they said it was fine, but I wonder if their tester is sophisticated enough to detect a problem if the voltage output is not merely consistently low. I heard a voltage regulator can be the problem but I assumed the voltage regulator was in the alternator anyways. The battery seems to charge sufficiently, I haven't had any problems getting it started except for one particularly cold morning where it cranked a little slower than normal but still fired up. E: Oh I forgot to mention that my headlights seems to pulsate a bit at idle as well which reinforces the idea that it's an alternator problem I think. Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 14:07
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That’s what I would suspect. Alternators have had the regulators built‐in since the ’70s. The alternator will have to be pulled and either fixed and put back or swapped for a new one (in which case the old one would likely be refurbished and sold to someone else). Platystemon fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 14:19
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Lots of cars have the regulator in the ECU now. Might want to double check before you blow money on parts.
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Dec 20, 2016 15:53
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My el cheapo car lights dim slightly when there's more electric power draw. Even the flashers affect things. When the flashers and interior lights are on, the interior lights will dim slightly every time the flashers illuminate, and brighten when they go back off, etc. The same thing will happen in your house if you turn on a hair dryer or other high current draw appliance for example. How serious is your dimming?
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Dec 20, 2016 18:34
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I'm currently driving a sort-of-borrowed '99 manual Honda Accord (It's my mother's but I'm on the title already anyway) and it's failed inspection. There are two sides to the failure - first, there are holes rusted into the back of the rocker panels (we live in the Northeast) and second, there are about $800 worth of mechanical repairs to do on the car. The mechanical repairs may also not end there - there's a "check engine" light on and the mechanic said he suspects it's due to one of the steel lines for the exhaust/fuel vapor system being all rusted up, but he'll need to replace that and then see if the problem is resolved. As far as the rocker panels go, the first body shop I went to told me specifically that they have too many collisions to bother helping me with my rust problem. The second one said that the rocker panels would be be somewhere between $550 and $1000 - he gave it a cursory examination and said he was sure there's a hole at the back on both sides but he won't know how much work is needed to get everything patched until he's up in the guts of the thing and actually doing it. He also recommended that I have him patch the right rear door and quarter panel, something like another $500, lest I end up without either of those things by the time next winter rolls around. I'm looking at a cost of roughly $2k to put the car in running, legal, inspection-passing order - with the small wrinkle that I'd still need to officially buy it from my mother, but she's agreed to knock off the cost of repairs from the $1700 she was going to charge me anyway. She said she already put $1000 into it last year to get it inspected. My question basically boils down to "Should I bother?" I'm tempted to stick with the Honda, even if only on the strength of it being the devil I know. I'm afraid that if I pick up a new used car instead I'll be starting at buying it for around $3k and then spending another thousand on repairs on top of that.
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Dec 20, 2016 22:40
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Fire Storm posted:Issue persists. I figured I'd replace the Canister Purge Valve, PCV valve and the valve hose, parts cost under $50. An update. Checked my codes again, saw this:  So it looks like one of my oxygen sensors needs replacing. That should be easy enough.
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Dec 20, 2016 23:06
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Ignoranus posted:I'm currently driving a sort-of-borrowed '99 manual Honda Accord (It's my mother's but I'm on the title already anyway) and it's failed inspection. There are two sides to the failure - first, there are holes rusted into the back of the rocker panels (we live in the Northeast) and second, there are about $800 worth of mechanical repairs to do on the car. The mechanical repairs may also not end there - there's a "check engine" light on and the mechanic said he suspects it's due to one of the steel lines for the exhaust/fuel vapor system being all rusted up, but he'll need to replace that and then see if the problem is resolved. You can get a not-a-pile-of-poo poo used car for $3,000.
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Dec 20, 2016 23:14
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Kibbles n Shits posted:If my headlights dim when I use the power windows, that's a sign that my alternator is on it's way out right? I had AutoZone do an alternator test, and they said it was fine, but I wonder if their tester is sophisticated enough to detect a problem if the voltage output is not merely consistently low. I heard a voltage regulator can be the problem but I assumed the voltage regulator was in the alternator anyways. The battery seems to charge sufficiently, I haven't had any problems getting it started except for one particularly cold morning where it cranked a little slower than normal but still fired up. Unless your car is failing to start, I would stop worrying about it. Like EightBit said, the regulator's in the ECU on a fair number of cars, in the alternator on others, and generally a failing alternator shows signs like the volt gauge dropping below normal while running, the GENERATOR or ALT lamp coming on, and/or the CEL coming on. Sometimes they make the radio make loud screaming noises that change frequency with the engine RPMs, too.
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Dec 21, 2016 00:11
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My 2009 Avalanche LT has a dead battery. The door handles don't have visible keyholes and I've hooked it up to another car with booster cables, but the remotes won't unlock the doors. The horn honks and the corner markers flash like an alarm was set off, but that's it. How the hell do I get into this loving truck so I can put the goddamn key into the goddamn ignition and start it? Please tell me GM wasn't dumb enough to make a truck where there is no possible way to enter it without electrical power.
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Dec 21, 2016 01:05
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There is no keyhole on the driver's side front door? I could have sworn they all had one there.
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Dec 21, 2016 01:18
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Nope, nothing. Just a door handle. Edit: it has an aftermarket remote start. Is it possible that the battery dying somehow wiped the remote memory?
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Dec 21, 2016 01:28
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The only key *should* be on the drivers door (on the bezel or handle ends) unless someone did something dumb like put a rear door handle on the front. Otherwise, there isn't a way I'm aware of to get into the truck if you can't unlock the doors outside of standard lockpick stuff like wedging a door or something similar. And it is possible depending on what the remote start uses for a power wire or if it requires always on power.
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Dec 21, 2016 03:05
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kastein posted:Unless your car is failing to start, I would stop worrying about it. Like EightBit said, the regulator's in the ECU on a fair number of cars, in the alternator on others, and generally a failing alternator shows signs like the volt gauge dropping below normal while running, the GENERATOR or ALT lamp coming on, and/or the CEL coming on. Sometimes they make the radio make loud screaming noises that change frequency with the engine RPMs, too. Here have a bad cell phone video of the problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAYLBR8T5pk I'm not overly worried about it since as you said, the car is starting just fine and the battery seems to be charging. The flicker is just irritating as all hell. Also I wanted to make sure my alternator wasn't about to die because I've been stranded by dying alternators before and it sucks.
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Dec 21, 2016 03:15
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Cop Porn Popper posted:The only key *should* be on the drivers door (on the bezel or handle ends) unless someone did something dumb like put a rear door handle on the front. Otherwise, there isn't a way I'm aware of to get into the truck if you can't unlock the doors outside of standard lockpick stuff like wedging a door or something similar. And it is possible depending on what the remote start uses for a power wire or if it requires always on power. After extensive google image research it appears that my Avalanche is the only Avalanche in the world with no keyhole on the driver's door handle, leading me to believe it was one more thing in the long list of stupid poo poo that the PO did to this truck  Time to start looking for a keyed door handle so I can at least avoid this in the future god loving dammit There's no way I can have a tumbler done up to match my current key, is there? Am I going to have to have two loving keys like it's 1979 again?
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Dec 21, 2016 03:44
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Kibbles n Shits posted:I'm not overly worried about it since as you said, the car is starting just fine and the battery seems to be charging. The flicker is just irritating as all hell. Also I wanted to make sure my alternator wasn't about to die because I've been stranded by dying alternators before and it sucks. Probe the battery with a voltmeter (HF always has coupons for free multimeters with any purchase if you need one) and see what numbers you get idling with the lights off and what number you get with everything on. This will quantify how bad the issue is. I’d worry about the battery not getting a good charge in these winter months, with the stress of the cold and headlights on frequently due to limited daylight hours.
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Dec 21, 2016 04:03
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So, how does a vacuum system work on a boosted gasoline engine? Do you have to adjust your dashpots to handle the possible positive pressure? Or do you have to do some fuckery where you compare the pressure difference between the two sides of the throttle plate? 
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Dec 21, 2016 04:54
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EightBit posted:So, how does a vacuum system work on a boosted gasoline engine? Do you have to adjust your dashpots to handle the possible positive pressure? Or do you have to do some fuckery where you compare the pressure difference between the two sides of the throttle plate? Typically they just use a vacuum reservoir and run all the vacuum lines to that, with a check valve to keep boost out. You're never really gonna be under boost for extended periods in a stock car; turbos spool down at cruise throttle, and most factory blowers have a valve to vent excess boost at partial throttle, or something like that.
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Dec 21, 2016 05:00
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Enourmo posted:Typically they just use a vacuum reservoir and run all the vacuum lines to that, with a check valve to keep boost out. You're never really gonna be under boost for extended periods in a stock car; turbos spool down at cruise throttle, and most factory blowers have a valve to vent excess boost at partial throttle, or something like that. What about older cars where vacuum was used to control spark timing, fuel mixture, etc?
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Dec 21, 2016 05:04
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DrakeriderCa posted:After extensive google image research it appears that my Avalanche is the only Avalanche in the world with no keyhole on the driver's door handle, leading me to believe it was one more thing in the long list of stupid poo poo that the PO did to this truck You could try sticking the battery on charge overnight and then try unlocking it with the remote in the morning. Also, try the spare fob
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Dec 21, 2016 09:19
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DrakeriderCa posted:There's no way I can have a tumbler done up to match my current key, is there? Am I going to have to have two loving keys like it's 1979 again? It's actually pretty easy to rekey most door locks. You could probably do it yourself.
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Dec 21, 2016 16:42
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Recommendations for tires? I bought some Kumho Tires 3 years ago and one of them is nearly bald already so I'd like to replace the whole lot. 2008 Ford Focus SE, I was looking at the continentals on tirerack unless there's something or somewhere better.
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Dec 21, 2016 17:12
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EightBit posted:What about older cars where vacuum was used to control spark timing, fuel mixture, etc? Don't forget windshield wipers and hvac controls. My 59 Lincoln has a continuous vacuum pump in the oil pan that runs off the oil pump.
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Dec 21, 2016 17:24
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Motronic posted:It's actually pretty easy to rekey most door locks. You could probably do it yourself. is there a guide for this? my RX7's driver side is ridiculously mangled and you an unlock it with a nickel at this point.
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Dec 21, 2016 17:35
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I have a 2013 Scion TC, which I barely drive. I think it has like 27k miles on it and I bought it brand new. Over a month ago it was parked on my street and someone smashed into the driver side quarter panel, right on my rear tire. There was a decent amount of damage and it cost like 4k to fix and it was in the shop for about a month. I had it towed to one of those shops that deals directly with my insurance company (I have GIECO if that matters). I have the estimate somewhere, but I remember that they had to do some work on the rear suspension. I got it back a couple of days before Thanksgiving. I live in Mass and drove it to NY for the holiday, then drove back and had no real issue. Didn't really drive it again until this past Thursday when I drove to NY again. I went to leave on Sunday and about 15 min in, while on the highway, every time I'd hit a bump my car felt like it was swaying - like if you are driving and it's really, really windy out. It got pretty bad and I felt like I was going to lose control a couple of times so I turned around and went back home to my mom's, then took her car because I needed to get back home to Mass. Anyway, I came back to NY last night and had my car brought to a shop around here. I explained the situation to the mechanic and showed him the estimate and all of the pictures from the accident and repairs done by the other shop. He just called me up and said that the rear suspension came loose and was flopping around which was causing the swaying. He said he could tighten it up, but he doesn't know what kind of damage was done as it was loose and that he wouldn't feel comfortable unless he changes the whole suspension, which would cost over 4k with parts and labor. GEICO should be going down to look at what's going on, but I'm not sure if they will cover that or not. So I really don't know what to do. If my insurance doesn't cover it, I don't have the money right now to get it fixed. But, I also don't want to be driving around in a car that I could lose control over. Does this sound like something I NEED to get done - get my whole suspension replaced? Or could I just have the guy tighten it up and it should be fine if done properly? Also, how the gently caress does this even happen? Like how does something like that get over looked and not fixed correctly the first time? Seems like kind of a big deal...
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Dec 21, 2016 18:28
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1500quidporsche posted:is there a guide for this? my RX7's driver side is ridiculously mangled and you an unlock it with a nickel at this point. There are plenty of youtube videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FX2AH9-isPA
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Dec 21, 2016 18:50
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