AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Your question is confusing. Are you asking if you should sell the Elantra and drive an 11 year older car? Or give your Elantra to your mom?

It sounds like the Hyundai is having minor problems only. How much is it worth? I�d just keep it and drive it until it dies since I can�t imagine you�d get more than a couple grand for it.

Elantra's worth $4000 on the used market. Not a whole lot.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jan 11, 2024

# ¿ Sep 5, 2018 16:01

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# ¿ May 22, 2024 06:20

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

ExecuDork posted:

Why would you even contemplate giving your mother a car that you regard as a ticking time bomb / hassle / lemon? What have you got against your mother?

Calling it a "ticking timebomb" might've been a bit much on my part. I'm more concerned about the smaller Elantra problems snowballing into something larger, because the Elantra works just fine right now but the repairs that I have done on it seem to be becoming more commonplace the closer I am to the end of the vehicle's warranty. But in either case- she isn't taking it after all since she doesn't want a manual transmission. So that conversation's done and over with.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Sep 5, 2018

# ¿ Sep 5, 2018 16:57

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Coming back with a stupid question about the '09 Elantra.

There's a squeak in the rear wheels whenever the parking brake is engaged and I sit in the driver's seat. I am not a lard rear end. But the rear wheels squeak whenever I sit down in, and exit, my Elantra. And it's only when the e-brake is on, so it isn't my struts.. What's the safest lube that I can use to slather on the parking brake cable's hook to stop the squeaking? I have lithium grease spray, lithium grease tube, and Ultra Slick Multi-purpose synthetic grease. I just don't want to mess it up and cause the metal linkage to slip by using the wrong lube. I've circled the problem area:

I sprayed the poo poo out of it with brake cleaner, but that only seems to have partially solved the squeaking.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Sep 6, 2018

# ¿ Sep 6, 2018 19:06

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

What's the best way to fix/de-rust small rusty spots scattered throughout your car? poo poo like this:

I know that it's not going to "go away" nor can I completely eliminate it. I just want to reduce its spread. Just dab at it with match-coloured touch-up paint? Usually with a rusty frying pan I'd attack it with salt and vegetable oil but obviously this '07 Corolla isn't a frying pan. I've had tiny little spots like this open right up into bigger patches of rot after a single winter on my previous vehicles.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 30, 2018

# ¿ Sep 30, 2018 21:14

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Deteriorata posted:

Touch-up paint will cover it up for a couple months, but it will continue to rust and will break though it even worse than before. To fix it permanently, you have go grind it down to clean metal, then primer it and repaint.

Ah geez. Sounds like it might be more trouble than it's worth. I don't think I'd be able to do that without it looking like a bumpy, DIY mess. Thanks for the pointers, either way.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Oct 3, 2018

# ¿ Oct 3, 2018 15:13

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

/\ Fair enough. And it does look like this Corolla is worth keeping around. Time to break out the dremel, then.

# ¿ Oct 3, 2018 15:59

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

My radiator's looking a bit banged up. 2007 Corolla LE. Is it time for a new radiator replacement? My engine temperature seems to be normal as well as the interior heating performance,but bits of and pieces of metal are shaving off when I run my hand across it.

Also I just replaced my radiator hoses, thermostat and holy poo poo is my Corolla cramped. I barely had any room to maneuver and move poo poo around with my socket wrenches. Is there a super-skinny /thin profile socket wrench option out there for working inside of cars like mine? Because I spent way too much time just trying to access screws and bolts and stripped the gently caress out of my alternator bolt because of it. :suicide:

# ¿ Oct 7, 2018 05:55

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

wesleywillis posted:

Its not leaking, heat is good, and engine not running hot? Don't gently caress with something that ain't broke.

Alright cool. I just (incorrectly) thought that busted up-looking radiator = repair time.

quote:

Also pick up a set of these bitches:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-24-piece-ratcheting-gearwrench-wrench-set-0580237p.html#srp

I actually have a set of wrenches like that- Husky (Home Depot) brand. But they wouldn't grip any of the bolts and were often too short to get enough leverage. So I think the ones I have are just crap quality. I did however see these two offset-looking wrenches on a YouTube tutorial, but can't figure out for the life of me what they're called:

EDIT: Just discovered that they're called "Deep Offset" wrenches. But I do wonder if there's a version ratchet-version with removable socket heads so I can attach bolt extractor heads for the threaded bolts in there?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Oct 8, 2018

# ¿ Oct 8, 2018 15:15

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Is it safe to use a ~6 year old spray bottle of CRC Throttle Bottle Kleen? Just found it in my garage but unsure if it's still usable. It does sit through harsh winters and summers while stored away.

(Also thanks for the previous advice on ratchet tools and radiator condition for me '07 Corolla.)

melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 10, 2018

# ¿ Oct 10, 2018 18:41

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

How the heck do I find out whether my steel wheels are compatible with my '07 Corolla?

Tire size is 195/65R R15, and according to this site my car's rim measurements are 6JJx15 ET45 and bolt pattern's 5x100. But I'm not sure if the wheel's offset is compatible with my 'Rolla. I'm guessing that I just need to measure out my steelies' offset and pattern with a wheel template? Or is there an easier way of determining this?

Because holy poo poo I'd be thrilled if these Blizzaks + wheels would for sure fit this car. :ohdear:

melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Oct 11, 2018

# ¿ Oct 11, 2018 22:40

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

About new wheels + tires on a 2018 Prius V: do hub-centric wheels need hub rings, or anything special beyond the proper lug nuts? Asking because I recently purchased some new 16" rims + Blizzaks at Costco, and they were listed as 'OEM Compatible, hub-centric, and winter-approved". But the guy who just mounted the tires onto the rims said that I need a tuner kit and hub rings. Which doesn't sound right to me and it also sounds like he's not aware that my new rims are hub-centric + OEM compatible. I also bought the lugnuts (pictured below) from Costco's tire centre during my original visit.

And I'm not even sure if these lug nuts they gave me are the right type. Doesn't "OEM compatible" wheels mean that I should be buying the types with the washer at the end (like these OEM Toyota ones)

melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Oct 18, 2018

# ¿ Oct 18, 2018 19:23

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Strut question. 2007 Corolla LE. There's this rubber sleeve on the street and it's in pretty poo poo shape. Definitely going to crumble and fall off by end of this winter. How important is this rubber sleeve?

# ¿ Oct 31, 2018 17:48

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

IOwnCalculus posted:

The easiest solution there is to just replace the whole strut assembly with a quickstrut. Odds are the rubber isolators / strut top bearing are fairly worn as well.

Yeah that is most likely the case. It's the original struts, so they're over 10 years old.

How difficult is it to just buy some Monroe quick struts and just DIY it like this guy? And is there any reason why I shouldn't use Monroe quick struts?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Oct 31, 2018

# ¿ Oct 31, 2018 20:43

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Rustproofing question. Would you get rust undercoating on a 11 year old car ('07 Corolla) that already has rust on the underbody? I know that the whole point of rustproofing is to get it done BEFORE rust sets in, but we're kind of passed that, now. Just wondering if there's a benefit to paying for it on an older vehicle to at least mitigate/slow down the rust. We'd be using a local Krown Rustproofing garage, if we did go ahead with it.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Nov 7, 2018

# ¿ Nov 7, 2018 15:58

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

MrOnBicycle posted:

Not the kind that is thick goop that locks the rust and moisture in. Thin, creeping rust proofing solutions are probably a better option to protect what's not yet rusted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiIym5JiMOc something like this, prehaps.

The local Krown garage uses a "petroluem-based product" so it very well could be the thick goop that you're describing. But they don't seem to be very detailed about what they use, so who knows.

Deteriorata posted:

I wouldn't bother. The car is old enough that there isn't enough value to protect anymore.

If it's a car you love and want to keep for another 20 years, fix the rust first. Don't use the waxy, rubberized undercoating in any event. It traps moisture against the metal and actually promotes rust. Its only value is in keeping you from seeing the rust until it falls apart.

That's a good point. I'll probably keep the car around for another 5-7 years, but not much longer. And the rustproofing isn't cheap either- it's about $130. I won't do it on this vehicle. Thanks for the pointers.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Nov 7, 2018

# ¿ Nov 7, 2018 18:33

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

2007 Corolla. I'm replacing all of the struts this spring. I usually go OEM only, but for ease of installation (and cost) reasons I'm thinking of buying and using a set of Monroe Quick Struts. Are there any known quality/durability issues with Monroe, or are they a pretty good option versus OEM?

Or should just quit being a cheapass and get some strut compressors with some OEM Toyota struts.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Feb 2, 2019

# ¿ Feb 2, 2019 23:31

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Colostomy Bag posted:

Ever use strut compressors? Doing the job can kill you in not a good way.

Never used them before. Are they anything like garage door springs, as in, they're in "Don't gently caress with ever" territory? I'm experienced with tools but have never messed with anything that could definitely kill my dumbass in 0.5 seconds if I hosed up a tiny bit.

PabloBOOM posted:

You can rent spring compressors for free from AutoZone, et al. $50 or so to take them with you and you get a refund when you bring them back. It's worth getting good struts if you've got the time to carefully deal with it. Can't speak for Monroe's assembly though.

Yeah and that's kind of where I'm at. It's a 2007 Corolla that I'm hoping to keep around for another ~5 years. I like OEM and prefer OEM. But is it worth getting OEM with the added hassle of a strut compressor for an "older" vehicle like this one?

Queen Combat posted:

Never doing anything other than quickstruts again.

More details on why would be awesome. Is there more benefit to quick struts aside from ease of installation? Better yet- is there a BETTER brand than Monroe for quick struts that maybe I should look at?

IOwnCalculus posted:

I went with Monroe quickstruts on my CRV. So far so good, and it was nice not needing to mess around with a strut compressor.

I've heard that Monroe quickstruts don't offer as smooth a ride as OEM. What are your thoughts on that, after having them installed on your CRV?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Feb 3, 2019

# ¿ Feb 3, 2019 07:09

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

2018 Prius V.

Tire Pressure warning on dashboard after swapping out seasonal wheels. Have triple-checked tire inflation and it's up to spec. Holding down the reset button beneath the steering wheel turns off the error only temporarily, and the warning light reappears in a few hours. How do you reset AND re-calibrate the tire pressure system? My 2007 Corolla has this dumb loving trickery where you have to Turn ignition to 'ON' , hold down tire pressure reset button until indicator disappears, release button, hold down tire pressure reset button until TPMS telltale flashes 3 times, then drive around for 10 minutes for initialization to complete. I figure that there is some sort of similar trick to to the Prius V, we just haven't figured it out, yet.

# ¿ Feb 24, 2019 05:55

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

rdb posted:

Pretty sure toyota TPMS systems require sensor IDs to be programmed to the vehicle. At least my tundra did. So every time I swapped wheels I had to reprogram the truck for the different sensors. I have an autel tool that does it, it ran about $300. You can buy generic sensors and clone IDs as well.

Sounds like you might be right. I bought the the new winter tires + aftermarket wheels from Costco. But I have no idea if those new tires even came with new TPMS Sensors. Is there any easy way of checking if they did? At this point I don't even know if I need to buy new TPMS sensors or if my swapped out tires already have some that simply need to be reprogrammed. I'm new to the current-gen tire technology and really want to learn how to properly fix this issue. I found this YouTube video on Toyota TPMS sensors but I'm not sure how much it applies to my current problem.

wesleywillis posted:

Do these other tires even have the TPMS sensors? Are the tires inflated to the proper pressure? Do they have batteries? I'd assume that TPMS sensors do have batteries, but I've never actually put more than 3 seconds of thought in to whether they actually do or not.

No idea if these other tires have TPMS sensors (Costco mounted my new winter tires onto my new wheels so I never got a chance to even look at them). No idea about batteries.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Mar 12, 2019

# ¿ Mar 12, 2019 04:32

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

wesleywillis posted:

On my corolla, (09) the TPMS valve stems are rigid plastic or metal looking ones.
On my snow tires/rims they've got the regular rubber valve stems. If there is nothing on your invoice, mentioning TPMS sensors then you probably don't have them. I doubt anyone is throwing them things in for free. They're cheaper than they used to be, but you're probably still looking at 100 bucks for a set of four.

Just checked my receipt and called my local Costco Tire centre, and you're right. TPMS sensors are a separate purchase and definitely not "included" in the Costco's cost for a tire mounting. Costs about $60/ea. So this gives me a starting point. Thanks!

# ¿ Mar 12, 2019 17:31

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Which brand of bodyfill are you all using for minor filling jobs like this one:

I've grinded off all of the rust in these tiny little spots. My plan is to apply some bodyfill, sand it, then touch up paint + clearcoat.

I've heard that Bondo is pretty terrible. I've heard good things about 3M Premium filler (but am having a bitch of a time finding it locally) and Evercoat.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Apr 18, 2019

# ¿ Apr 18, 2019 18:03

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

wesleywillis posted:

Is that around a door frame? That looks awfully small.

My recommendation would be to just get a tube of touch up paint, and hit it with that every day for a week or two (unless its raining) until the little divot is filled in. That being said, its hard to tell because the picture is so zoomed the gently caress in. How big is the actual spot we're looking at?

Not big at all. No larger than a thumbnail. There are several spots like this all around my car (<3 living in salt country). But ever since I've left the exposed steel bare and open while searching for a body fill a bit more surface rust has set it. So I'll be grinding a bit more metal off. Will layered-up touch up paint retain its shape over changing weather extremes or will it eventually become a bumpy mess?

# ¿ Apr 19, 2019 18:13

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Cool dudes. Primer + touch-up paint layers it is, then. I just thought that bodyfill was needed for the touch-up paint to properly "bite" into and take proper hold.

# ¿ Apr 19, 2019 19:13

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Question about strut replacements (front + rear) on my 2007 Corolla LE. So I'm going to DIY it. I originally intended on doing quickstruts but decided to go OEM and rent a strut compressor (probably a terrible idea but I swear by OEM).

Are there any other suspension-related parts that I might as well do while I'm replacing the struts? I'm thinking lower ball joint, inner + outer tie rods, etc.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Jun 2, 2019

# ¿ Jun 2, 2019 14:58

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

spankmeister posted:

Don't forget to have an alignment done when you're finished.

Definitely! Also forgot to ask- is there a point in replacing the actual suspension spring in addition to the strut cartridge? It looks more or less okay. But yeah... 12 year old vehicle in the rustbelt.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jun 2, 2019

# ¿ Jun 2, 2019 15:10

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

wesleywillis posted:

[snip]

Yeah I've heard that about spring compressors. Dangerous poo poo. And if the swaybar end links are probably rusty then I'm willing to be that my stabilizer links probably are, too. I'm just really leery of aftermarket parts because I've had issues with fit whenever I went aftermarket (gently caress aftermarket radiator hoses). But if KYB Quickstruts are really close to OEM I might consider it.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2019 18:51

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Goddamn you guys know your struts. Alright so it looks like I'm doing struts, tie rods, lower ball joint, stabilizer links, and sway bar bushings. Looks like I'll be accumulating a nice "little" collection of specialty tools since the local retailers don't lend them out. And you've all sold me on quick struts.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jun 4, 2019

# ¿ Jun 3, 2019 23:11

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Follow-up question on struts replacement for my '07 Corolla. How do you make sure that, during old strut removal, I keep hearing about how the axle's inner-joint can fall out. And if it does then you just gave yourself a whole lot more annoying work to. Kind of how EricTheCarGuy discusses at this part. Any tips fpr making sure that this doesn't happen? A lot of videos I've watched say "Be careful!" but none seem to have any helpful tips on how to avoid this from happening. Also how hosed are you if that does end up happening.

# ¿ Jun 7, 2019 16:49

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Need some advice on removing a seized rear strut. 2007 Corolla LE.

Problem is with my right-rear strut. Circled area A, the upper mount and bearing assembly, is where the seizing is. The internal components are completely frozen up and won't give me any play/wiggle at all to remove it. At first I thought that the strut was seized onto the lower nut in area B but I've checked and that's definitely not the case. It moves. But I can't pry it off at all

The other side's strut (rear-left) had enough play and I was able to maneuver and pry it out no problem. But it looks like the right-rear strut has been seized for a while. Internal bearing components are just frozen. I even noticed some gummed up hydraulic fluid.

Any tips for removing a seized rear strut? I'm not able to pull the top part downward enough to free it. I swore at it for 3 hours straight and somehow that didn't break it loose.

YouTube video here in case it might be helpful.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Aug 18, 2019

# ¿ Aug 18, 2019 01:49

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

opengl128 posted:

Air hammer or a big hammer with carefully placed blows, or maybe jack it up to relieve some pressure on that bottom mounting point first? Also heat.

e: misread and thought it was seized on the lower nut. Not sure how it can get stuck up top, it looks like it already dropped a little?

Just to clarify- the upper mount and bearing assembly is NOT seized to the vehicle mating surface! So heat is no use, here. I can push the old strut downwards but only about 3/4 an inch. Here's another video demonstrating this.

The Upper Mount Bearing Assembly for the hosed up strut can be lowered a bit, but can't pivot/wiggle at all so I can't free it from the control arm. Almost as if the old strut is "frozen". The strut on the other side came out with no issue. But this one only drops a tiny bit, but has no maneuverability whatsoever. And just to emphasize- the lower nut is not stuck to the strut. I'm just getting zero wiggle out of the upper strut mount, as if it's internal bearings are completely seized/hosed.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Aug 18, 2019

# ¿ Aug 18, 2019 01:55

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

PainterofCrap posted:

Do you have/have access to a come-along? If so: hook one end around the bottom of the strut & the other around the frame member on the opposite side & start ratcheting.

Try to stay out of the line of fire in the process...she might break loose all at once.

I think I understand what you're getting at! I could go out and buy a comealong. But I'm just not sure what you mean by the frame member. So connect the free hook to the bottom of the strut, and the stationary hook to which part? Also- should I screw the top strut mount bolts back on when trying this?

melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Aug 18, 2019

# ¿ Aug 18, 2019 03:33

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Actually I just realized what's happening. Turns out that the strut lower part that screws into the control arm IS seized. I used a new strut to illustrate the problem:

So the strut can't be pried off because that inner metal sleeve is seized right onto the control arm. The strut is "trying" to pull away but can't since the boot is obviously attached. I've been bathing it in PB blaster. Hesitant to torch it since there is hydraulic fluid inside. Here's a secondary, really unhelpful image of the seized strut:

Can't fit a prybar/chisel into there. I was thinking of hitting it with a hammer to break the bonds but that rubber bushing is acting like padding. Can't cut anything since I don't have access to an angle grinder or air tools. Think I'm in for a fight, here.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Aug 18, 2019

# ¿ Aug 18, 2019 19:16

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Colostomy Bag posted:

It's hard to tell (I know you trying to show us everything the best you can, but perspective, etc. makes it hard.) I'd sawzall it.

Looks like you're right. No amount of PB Blaster/hammering is moving this damned thing.

# ¿ Aug 18, 2019 20:32

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

wesleywillis posted:

Is this your daily driver?

Hopefully not. If I were you, I'd try to sawzall the outer "ring" that the bottom of the strut off, cut as much rubber bushing off as you can, and then carefully hacksaw the inner "ring" off. It may split apart once you hacksaw through it. Or torch it once you've got the rubber off. Keep a fire extinguisher handy for obvious reasons (fuel tank).

It is my daily driver. :anime:

Also- I'm considering of getting the Milwaukee hackzall instead of the sawzall. Since I don't have a lift my working area is pretty cramped. I'm barely able to get beneath my car as it is. Am I crazy for considering a hackzall for cutting bolts and thicker pieces of automotive metal?

Geoj posted:

You could also try a few cycles of heating and quenching the stud. Won't help with directly removing it, but the heat cycling/thermal expansion and contraction may help break up whatever rust/dirt/grime/other poo poo has worked its way in between the strut and the stud.

Any safety issues with torching struts? Every guide I've ever read cautions against putting heat on struts.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Aug 18, 2019

# ¿ Aug 18, 2019 22:25

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Hey it's me! The guy with the rear strut problem! And I dremel'ed too deep. I am an idiot!

How hosed am I? And am I safe enough to at least drive this off to a place that knows what the gently caress they are doing?

I went deep. Can't believe this poo poo. :suicide:

Extra fun times ahead because the local Toyota warehouse is super backed up and almost every part is on backorder. And it's not like you can just replace this bolt- it's welded onto that entire rear assembly (axle beam, I think? I don't even know):

Just look at that loving gaper.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Aug 20, 2019

# ¿ Aug 20, 2019 00:33

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

2007 Corolla LE question. I need to replace the rear fender. My buddy has a 2004 Corolla that he's gonna junk. Will his '04's fender fit onto my 2007? They're the same generation, but I'm just not sure if differing years' parts are interchangeable.

\/ Alright cool man thanks

melon cat fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Feb 11, 2020

# ¿ Feb 10, 2020 02:17

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

So with the quarantine in effect it looks like I won't be driving my car for a long time. Vehicles are stored outside. How long can a vehicle sit for until the gasoline starts to go bad and start loving things up internally? Is it time to buy and add some fuel stabilizer?

# ¿ Mar 19, 2020 14:57

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

2007 Corolla LE

I need to buy flare nuts for my new KYB strut tower. Struts arrived in mail, but are missing the flare nuts. KYB said they're all out of the flare nuts and I'll have to buy my own (lmao). According to the KYB rep the thread size for the nuts are M8x1.25.

What kind of material should these nuts be made out of? Is stainless steel enough for a vehicle that's driven in a salt country (Southeast Ontario)? I'm just leery of buying this sort of hardware separate from the manufacturer. There's stainless steel, titanium ones.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jun 9, 2020

# ¿ Jun 8, 2020 19:56

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Colostomy Bag posted:

Wouldn't overthink it much. Stainless is fine. Myself, I'd walk into the hardware store with the strut (to verify threads) and find black oxide ones.

Oh okay. I just thought that that stainless had to be of a certain type/grade.

Beach Bum posted:

Flange nuts, just so you're aware. I get mine at Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. Did KYB give any specifications for material?

I've been saying it wrong the whole time. Thanks for correcting me on that. I just called it that because I saw some online seller call it that. That might explain why I haven't been able to find as many resellers for these nuts.

KYB told me Grade 8 steel.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jan 10, 2024

# ¿ Jun 9, 2020 23:00

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# ¿ May 22, 2024 06:20

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

2007 Corolla.

My front stabilizer bar is rusty as poo poo on its ends, and the black protective coating of factory paint just flaked off, revealing lots and lots of rust. Is there a paint/rust inhibitor that I can spray onto here that will hide and slow the rust growth? I'm not expecting it to look beautiful. I just don't want the sway bars seizing to my stabilizer links' bolts again. Because gently caress all that.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jun 18, 2020

# ¿ Jun 18, 2020 18:26

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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