AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

Arriviste: Sep 10, 2010; _{Gather. Grok. Create.}

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Bonk posted:

I've got a '93 Honda Accord I'm trying to get rid of because I never drive it. Due to being parked and unused most of the time, it's started having battery issues. I've had to jump it a few times in the past few months but usually if I use it once a week it'll start up without much trouble.

Last week though, I tried starting it up and only got dash lights, no engine turning over or clicking or anything. I tried to jump it with another car, but after I hooked it up, it stopped doing anything at all - no dash lights, nothing. It won't take a jump anymore. I know I hooked up the cables in the right order because I've done it dozens of times, it's just suddenly not taking a charge anymore. I don't want to put more money into it (especially if I don't know if it's just the battery) but I'd also like to not take a low-ball offer because I've spent a lot on repairs. What could make it just die like that, and does it sound like it's just the battery or might it be a short? The only thing I can think of is that it's been rainy and something got wet. Removing the battery and getting it tested is also an option, but if there's an easier way I'm open to suggestions.

Possibly related, or at least worth watching out for, is a rotten/broken plastic bumper on the brake switch adjustment. Found this fix for a friend with an electrical gremlin in an Accord from the same era: Honda Tech forum thread.

# ¿ Feb 11, 2015 14:21

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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 04:41

Arriviste: Sep 10, 2010; _{Gather. Grok. Create.}

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http://www.weathertech.com floor mats: Yay or Nay?

My '95 Nissan truck mats are looking wretched and, as much as I'd like identical OEM ones, they are carpeted and I want something more durable. The WT mats caught my eye because they have a hole for the mat anchor. Any experience with the company or have any others in mind that I should consider?

Arriviste fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Mar 13, 2015

# ¿ Mar 13, 2015 01:29

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Bovril Delight posted:

They're great, but expensive. Since they aren't rubber they don't have as much friction when they get wet. First time I cleaned them I about busted my rear end trying to get in.

Good point about the slip factor. Doesn't sound ideal when climbing into the truck. I have a small, channeled, plastic mat for where my right heel rests to help prolong the life of the old floor mat. It gets on my nerves when my shoes are wet.

# ¿ Mar 13, 2015 03:52

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Grumbletron 4000 posted:

Nothing quality to add (as usual): Just wanted to say that yours is one of my favorite name/avatar/title combos.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2015 04:10

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What is the sheet seal in a door interior called? Also, if I gently caress mine up, can I replace it with 3 mil sheeting and exterior-grade double-sided mounting tape? Seems like it might be too bulky. Once the weather gets nice again, I plan to take the passenger door apart and see just how broken the manual lock mechanism is and what components I need to order. As I posted a long time ago, some genius took my antenna mast and tried to pop out my lock cylinder with it, so it's loose (currently unusable and stuck back in the door with caulk) and the surrounding door is slightly damaged.

# ¿ Mar 20, 2015 14:43

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IOwnCalculus posted:

Vapor barrier is the most common name for it, I think. I've never managed to muck one up so bad that it couldn't be mostly jammmed back into place, but ultimately it is just some plastic sheeting. As long as it doesn't get in the way of anything I don't see what would be wrong with your proposed replacement.

Thanks! I've got several little things that need tending on this dd truck and, without a garage--or even a shade tree--I've got to make sure my ducks are in a row before I start taking things apart.

Top of the list: reading ECU error codes and opening up the instrument cluster to look for the speedo gremlin.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2015 14:37

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Couldn't find an easily accessibly FSM or pictures, but this description of the process on a 2000 (which I think uses the same rear bumper cover -- REPT760121P -- up to 2004) could be a good start:

kingoftheding posted:

rear bumpers are pretty easy to remove.
1) Remove the wheel trim (both sides) if applicable
2) remove bumper bolt (inner edge of bumper should be visible once rear wheel well liner is removed
3) remove tail lights ( usually 3 to 4 bolts behind tail lights.
4) this is the hard part - place the palm of your hand in the meatiest part on the inside of the bumper cover and push the cover away from the vehicle = repeat on both sides.
5) once you have release both sides you should be able to pull the top rear portion of the bumper for the bumper clips and remove the bumper. Hope this help

e: adding link to a parts diagram

Arriviste fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Mar 29, 2015

# ¿ Mar 29, 2015 02:00

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Pixelated Dragon posted:

The paint shouldn't have cracked like that from such a minor ding.

It pisses me off every time I see it because of this.

IIRC, there is some history of this century's VWs having paint issues on bumpers (due to parts rubbing together at seams?) but it makes me wonder if this bumper cover is already a repaint and the issues of paint on a somewhat flexible surface are compounded by it being dark paint -- especially if something didn't get to cure/dry properly.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2015 03:15

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Because OILCHAT I have to ask:
Had my oil changed a few hundred miles ago and went with the usual 5W. The attendant asked if I wanted to swap to high mileage synthetic since the truck is so old. Said I'd consider it on the next change.

1995 Nissan 2WD VG30 (V6 3.0L) 5-spd that just hit 70k. No magic smoke escapes from it and it throws no codes. Am I going to dislodge any good gunk if I swap to this other type of oil or is that an old shadetree's tale that it'll trigger leaks because of the detergents?

# ¿ May 1, 2015 23:14

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EightBit posted:

I think it has more to do with older engines tending to have flat lifters or other parts that require higher zddp levels than newer oil blends provide. Even the supposed high-mileage oils aren't as high as what was used in the past, as zinc degrades catalytic converters. If you want the engine to last a long time, it wouldn't hurt to keep using whatever oil you were using and just add a zddp supplement. That is, if it has flat lifters.

I don't know the differences among lifter shapes and sizes yet, but it's interesting that you bring them up. From what I've read, these trucks tend to have engine noise from lifters and/or broken manifold bolts. I do have a distinctive ping that, to me, seems worse before running awhile. My commute is typically only about six miles and, due to hardship license restrictions, I can't really take it for a good hard run on my own yet. The ping/knock does change with the RPMs.

Landlord heard the engine noise and talked of maybe adjusting the lifters for me, but I don't think mine work in the way he was thinking. (I'm still learning.) If a lifter is sticking, then maybe an oil additive would help? Any reccs? I've always seen Lucas around when I buy Sea Foam -- or do I need to look at something else?

This thread on Nissan Forums gives me a few clues about what I'm up against in diagnosing and curing the noises: link

e: phone app postin' and making dumb bbcode

Arriviste fucked around with this message at 06:12 on May 2, 2015

# ¿ May 2, 2015 06:09

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TKIY posted:

How many miles would you accept on a new car odometer? I'm picking up a new car and it has almost 500km on it...

Doesn't sound new to me.

What's the dealership's explanation? ("Courtesy Partial Break-In: $1000.00") Will they cut the price and/or adjust the warranty for you?

# ¿ May 4, 2015 17:48

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TKIY posted:

I'm going to go throw a hissy fit in the showroom and see what happens.

# ¿ May 4, 2015 17:51

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TKIY posted:

Just sat in the car and checked the odometer. 907km.

Tore a strip off the sales manager, the business manager and the general manager in the show room. Walked out.

Holy gently caress what a downer. I was so stoked for this car

Disaster averted, but that is still such a let-down. Good on ya for letting them know what bullshit that was and for walking away.

# ¿ May 4, 2015 18:54

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mr.belowaverage posted:

Engine rattle complaints were fairly common when I was working at Nissan. Almost every single one was caused by an aftermarket oil filter, and solved by changing. The techs suggested something about the anti-drain back valves. For < it's worth a shot. �

Would using an OEM filter be better for my 1995 Nissan XE (VG30E / 3.0 V6 / 5 spd) pickup, you think? It has ~70K mi., no CEL appearances, and no trouble codes. What it does have, though, is the typical ticking indicative of lifter and/or exhaust manifold bolt issues. I don't expect an oil filter to cure that, but I wonder if it's something I should be doing anyway. I use whatever the quick change shops throw on it. If I bring in my own filter, will most places have an issue with that? (I'd do my own oil changes, but I don't have a good spot to do them.)

# ¿ May 31, 2015 14:45

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Slavvy posted:

I doubt it makes any difference to the VG30. What oil viscosity do you use? Often that ticking comes when people over-estimate the oldness and shittyness of their engine and dump 20w50 in when the car was intended for 10w30.

Thanks. I use 5W30 and intend to start using synthetic for high mileage at my next change in a couple thousand miles.

# ¿ May 31, 2015 21:28

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Slavvy posted:

It's worth chucking some engine flush in there before your next oil change to see if you can clear up the lifters a little bit. Ignore the hysteria about it that often comes up in this thread - it takes a lot more than that to harm one of those engines, and you might get lucky and make it sound a little better.

Heh. Yeah, I got some Lucas but the drat truck won't burn any oil so I can have room to add it!

# ¿ May 31, 2015 22:48

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This is how my morning started:

Or didn't start and didn't crank, rather. Hauled it to a local foreign car auto service early this afternoon and just got a callback with a diagnosis and estimate: $487US to replace the starter on my 1995 Nissan XE pickup (3.0L V6 / VG30E / 5-spd. / ~70,000 mi.) The price for that job sounds reasonable enough, but I am starting to question whether or not it is actually the starter. What I know:

When I attempted to start it (before and after a good samaritan tried to jump it) I heard no clicks or other sounds except a mild *tock* from the front at the same time the ABS light turns off in the instrument panel.
Speaking of instrument lights -- all turned on like usual when I attempted to start. CEL did not stay on, IIRC, when the other cluster lights went off.
Speaking of CEL -- no history of it coming on and I checked for OBD codes a couple of months ago for the hell of it and the only code was "55" (No Malfunction Recorded.)
All electrical systems in the cab did work with the key turned to the start position. Hazard lights did not change tempo as I attempted to start or as it sat there.
Battery terminals and connectors aren't exactly pristine, but there is no visible corrosion.
I checked all the fuses related to the engine and they looked fine.
I looked at the clutch pedal starter safety mechanism and it appears to engage as normal.
Three-year-old alternator (rebuilt, Napa-supplied) and a two-year-old Interstate battery.
The truck has had no trouble with starting before this morning. It did take a second to start once the key was turned. It wasn't instantaneous, but never felt unusual -- just a little "soft."
I did not think to turn on the headlights and ask someone to watch them as I attempted to start.

I'm assuming _{(and we all know what that gets you)} that the shop tested the starter to reach that conclusion, but I wonder if there is anything else I should ask about in the troubleshooting chain. I'd much rather learn that it was just a bad relay now before the shop starts shotgunning parts at it, but I don't want to seem all :byodame:

if I start asking questions.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2015 00:06

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dee eight posted:

First blush, sounds like a starter to me. Personally, I'd have tried to bump start it , drive to a shop, and saved a few bucks on a towl

Good to hear that it sounds like they're on the right track with the diagnosis, then.

I forgot all about bump starts! Had friends in high school that had to start that way and pushing cars was part of our after school routine. Re: towing costs: I have Verizon Roadside Assistance for $3.00/mo. on my wireless bill. In-town tows are a flat-rate $60.00 around here, so the service is a great peace of mind to have when you drive a twenty-year-old vehicle and live alone. I hate it for the small-time owner/operators who are in their network, though. Verizon's payment terms tend to be in the range of at least six months. I've tipped $10 - $20 the few times I needed the assistance before. Was having such a good chat with the fellow who picked me up today that I forgot to give him a tip. :bang:

# ¿ Jun 12, 2015 01:45

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EightBit posted:

You have all the symptoms of a battery failure, don't discount it because everything outside the battery looks peachy keen. Did you at least try to measure the sitting voltage?

Electrical systems of all sorts are Voudou to me, but I'd like to change that. I have the ubiquitous HF 7 Function multimeter and should have thought to test the battery. Now I see there are videos on YouTube that could have walked me through it. :magical:

I'll call the garage and ask them how the battery tested. It might still be under warranty or at least pro-rated. Boyfriend bought it while I was in jail so I don't know the model offhand and paperwork is in the glovebox, the documents of which I need to scan anyway. Thanks for reminding me!

# ¿ Jun 12, 2015 04:04

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CharlesM posted:

Any idea what this is?

Duesenberg, I think? Early 1940's?

# ¿ Jun 12, 2015 06:14

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CharlesM posted:

Well, it looks like one, but would be a replica. Had one of those sweeping speedometers from a 50-70s American car. Wish I got a second look, was walking my dog. :P

Yeah, was about to edit my post to add that it occurred to me to be kit/repro. 30's-style seemed so unlikely to me to be on the street, but as a copy... much more likely.

e: Former movie prop car, perhaps? I don't know these cars well, but I can't put my finger on why it seems "off" to me.

Arriviste fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jun 12, 2015

# ¿ Jun 12, 2015 06:25

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Update on Red Dwarf: Spoke with the owner of the garage and he kindly walked me through the diagnosis. Juice goes in but doesn't go out of the starter, basically. Battery tests fine now and once they get it running they'll check it out again. Starter has to be ordered and they hope to have it finished in time for me to drive to teach class Monday night.

CSB time: The flatbed driver who took me to the garage told me about the 4WD version of my truck that he and his work partner used in construction gigs. Put over 400K miles on it and, once they got flush with cash, they bought a new truck just because and parked the Nissan. It sat for a couple of years until a buddy fresh out of prison needed it and it's still puttering the roads to this day. D'aww.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2015 17:17

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Arriviste posted:

Update on Red Dwarf: Spoke with the owner of the garage and he kindly walked me through the diagnosis. Juice goes in but doesn't go out of the starter, basically. Battery tests fine now and once they get it running they'll check it out again. Starter has to be ordered and they hope to have it finished in time for me to drive to teach class Monday night.

Follow-up on Red Dwarf (1995 Nissan XE pickup):
Starter replacement complete and everything works just great. Thanks for the input, folks.
:shepspends:

# ¿ Jun 16, 2015 04:25

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I think I'll finally have some time this weekend to take out the analog instrument cluster in my 1995 Nissan XE p/u and try to solve the intermittent speedo/odo puzzle. I plan to clean with DeoxIt, tighten screws, and possibly reflow any janky-looking connections. Truck throws no codes, no CEL, and the speedo can be revived|killed by a good thump on the dashboard or by a bump in the road. If this brings back my cruise control, too, (yup, manual w/ cruise!) then HUZZAH. I'm going to try this first and hope that I don't also need a new VSS.

So my question: Do I need to disconnect the negative battery cable before I start playing around in my nicotine goo vault?

# ¿ Jun 17, 2015 21:29

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Enourmo posted:

Generally on any electrical work you're supposed to disconnect the cable just so you don't get transient current spikes loving anything up. That said, on a truck of that vintage I think you'd be fine just leaving it as is, it's not like 12V is hazardous (outside of short circuits/arcing causing fires, i mean the voltage itself) and it's not like it has a whole lot of OBD2 monitors to reset either way.

If your work doesn't fix the cruise control, models that age usually used vacuum units, so check the vaccum hose and the diaphragm that works the second throttle cable before just throwing a VSS at it.

Thanks for the advice. The fewer wiring components I have to wiggle, the better, I think. I imagine a cascading effect like trying to replace one section of home plumbing that pushes otherwise working parts out of whack. Good to know about the hose & diaphragm, too. I'm pretty sure the cruise control was still working even though the speedometer was already acting up when I parked it to go to jail. I could be not remembering the details correctly. After all, I was drinking (and toking) to excess back then.

# ¿ Jun 18, 2015 04:00

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Enourmo posted:

Generally on any electrical work you're supposed to disconnect the cable just so you don't get transient current spikes loving anything up. That said, on a truck of that vintage I think you'd be fine just leaving it as is, it's not like 12V is hazardous (outside of short circuits/arcing causing fires, i mean the voltage itself) and it's not like it has a whole lot of OBD2 monitors to reset either way.

If your work doesn't fix the cruise control, models that age usually used vacuum units, so check the vaccum hose and the diaphragm that works the second throttle cable before just throwing a VSS at it.

Duuuude. Thank you so much for your suggestions. I just pulled the vacuum hose and trimmed off the ~3/8" that was splitting and stuck it back in. CRUISE CONTROL WORKS AGAIN. :neckbeard:

I'm going to wait on the instrument cluster pull until after my 600 mi. round trip in mid-July since my engine temp gauge is operational now and I'd hate to inadvertently break that while chasing the intermittent speedo issue. Once again, thanks!
:tipshat:

# ¿ Jun 24, 2015 19:50

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Parts Kit posted:

Here's a stupid question: what's a good way to remove thoroughly melted trash bags from a pickup bed? At least I think that's what's there. poo poo's been there since some time before I bought it and the needle scaler I tried today didn't do much. It was pretty brittle in the winter but not in the summer heat today, hopefully I don't have to wait until winter to not drive myself nuts removing the poo poo.

Also I'm repainting when I'm done so paint damage is not a concern here.

Since preserving the paint is not a concern, I'd try acetone. Gasoline might do the trick, as well. I've heard that Castrol Superclean is powerful stuff, but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet.

Please protect your skin when playing with solvents and use ventilation. /PSA

# ¿ Jun 26, 2015 05:08

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davecrazy posted:

Replacing the battery in my 2003 Mustang Mach 1, when I hook up the red terminal the horn goes off and will not stop going off no matter how much i fiddle with the key fob, mash the lock unlock doors button or turn the key in the ignition.

Something hosed up or am I doing something wrong?

The car has been sitting for at least a year.

Are you reinstalling an old battery or putting in a new one? Either way, are you sure the battery is good? Also, will the vehicle start and drive?

# ¿ Jul 10, 2015 02:28

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22 Eargesplitten posted:

On a late 90s, early 2000s automatic Ford, I have two drives. One is marked with a D surrounded by a circle, one is just D. What does that mean?

That's Drive and Overdrive. OD has a higher gear ratio and can be used all the time, except for certain situations like towing or steep elevation changes. (AKA "use it for cruisin', not workin'.")

Ex-husband used his OD button as if it was some sort of turbo mode and popped it when overtaking traffic too fast like the douche he was/probably still is.

# ¿ Aug 1, 2015 18:10

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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 04:41

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ROFLburger posted:

getting single pop/tap noise when i accelerate form a dead stop and also when i brake. it sounds like maybe some bushing or elbow might be all dired/worn out.

noise is coming from the passenger side wheel well. It's a AWD, lancer evolution. I've taken the drat suspension assembly apart and put it back together, but i can not for the life of my find a culprit.

anyone encounter something like this before? is there a usual suspect?

Seems like it might be a
fairly common mystery noise for that vehicle.

# ¿ Sep 8, 2015 04:52

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