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Uthor posted:I stripped the poo poo out of the screws holding on the rotors on my sister's rotor. After breaking a screw extractor on one and a screwdriver tip in another, I ended up getting them out by hitting them with a chisel, angling it so the chisel would dig in and turn the screw. An impact driver is a good thing to have, and I have it on good authority that this Tekton one is by the same real manufacturer as the one you bought, but for less than half of the price. I bought one last year and have been beating on it pretty well. Seriously I have no idea who tekton is but I only find them on Amazon as a kid of "bargain basement" brand, but unlike HF's tool line the wrenches are actually the correct size after chroming, and they're cheaper than craftsman. I'm kind of weirdly infatuated with them now.
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Oct 7, 2015 19:26
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IIRC they take really aggressive lines through the corners, and the entire track was designed by Lotus to test cornering and recovery cornering after a high-speed sprint, so they all shave off seconds. Normal people aren't used to cars that allow you to corner more aggressively the faster you go like a Formula 1 car, so I think they aren't as worried about rolling as much as the normal person.
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Oct 7, 2015 19:30
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Always put the tire under the car, along with jackstands, along with the jack itself next to the closest jackstand. My logic is if for whatever reason I'm under the car and something fails and I'm slightly pinned (but miraculously still conscious) I have a jack within arms reach. My rule is that a car that is jacked up must have five points of contact to the ground (as it is now unstable) plus a failsafe. The jack itself plus a jackstand make five if I'm removing a wheel, and the wheel itself is the failsafe. May sound over the top, but when you grow up in dirt country, y'know? Elise's stories are amazing, and I'll admit I get teary-eyed whenever I read her one about the brother/friend that stays by his counterpart's side while he's in a coma while simultaneously working to save money to go home and sleeping in the hospital room's chair.
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Nov 24, 2015 20:46
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That's not maintenance. That's repair.
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Nov 26, 2015 04:12
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Ozmiander posted:If you get in to something that requires chains to get out of, you're better off calling AAA. There aren't enough AAA trucks in Idaho/Montana/E Washington to cover all of the people that use chains every day in the winter. Chains/cables are a totally viable, cheap option if you practice putting them on once before heading out.
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Nov 26, 2015 22:06
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spankmeister posted:Good to know, thanks. 
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Nov 28, 2015 10:05
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Don't use red car suspension kits, though. Way too aggressive.
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Dec 13, 2015 06:00
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2006 Crown Vic P71. For a friend - I don't have the car in front of me. When it is cold out, and the engine is cold, it cranks forever and takes at least 10+ seconds (he states up to 40) to start. When warm, it starts immediately. No known engine trouble codes. I recommended to him he change the fuel filter, because they are like $10, and after the filter change if he still has problems on cold starts to prime the fuel pump a few times (key on, leave on until fuel pump shuts off, repeat x3 or so) to see if it cures the problem. If it doesn't change things when cold, then I've heard a few things about crank position sensors? Ford even has a TSB about re-pinning the connector for the crank position sensor because it can corrode due to poor weatherproofing. The TSB even says to cut the connector off, trim off about 8 inches of wire, and re-pin a new connector. I'm thinking a flaky crank sensor could cause no-start issues? Also, it stick between 2nd and 3rd gear and revs really high before shifting. He took it to a shop and they changed the transmission fluid (but probably not filter based on what he paid for them to do it) against my recommendation. He says it now revs quite high before shifting (like, instead of lazily shifting at 1500-2k, it goes to 2.5-3k before even attempting) but it shifts firmly without slipping. Though I don't know if he knows what a slipping auto feels like, so YMMV on that anecdote. He states the transmission is way overfull on fluid (well above the dipstick hash marks by about the length of the hashmarks themselves) when checking fluid levels while parked and idling. My research shows that the torque converter only had a drain plug on pre-2002 MY cars, which sucks for him. Hose and siphon to remove excess?
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Dec 13, 2015 23:27
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I did get a new battery for him. Charges good, too, according to a multimeter. It cranks the engine over just fine and dandy, but the engine never catches and starts. Turn turn turn turn nothing. Whereas when the car is warm or after it has been started, it starts right up.
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Dec 14, 2015 00:28
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Most new cars have rubber mats available. But removing the carpet entirely will be difficult, as they are wrapped up onto the center dash and in one piece with the rear carpet nowadays.
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Jan 3, 2016 06:31
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Extend the button, make it external. Easy.
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Jan 10, 2016 22:53
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When I bought my bus it came with four lovely, lovely 11-year-old tires (that I then proceeded to drive 1400-1600 miles on  ) and a brand-new, fullsize spare in the spare wheel compartment. Fucker probably pulled and sold the new tires and forgot about the spare.Anyway, point being: if you get a fullsize spare made from your best old tire, you will never need to use it. So, do that.
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Jan 12, 2016 09:32
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Nah, I used AAA flatbed to take my bus to a friend's garage a few weeks back. It still exists.
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Jan 12, 2016 18:17
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You know what else does that? A car.
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Jan 27, 2016 10:21
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The best tires always go on the back. Always. This is why rotating is so important, as the fronts wear more quickly.
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Jan 31, 2016 05:01
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Well, I mean, their volume is independent of the volume of the...
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Feb 4, 2016 |
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Feb 4, 2016 11:25
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It's literally the amount of air displaced by the piston.
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Feb 7, 2016 12:35
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STEREO PROTIP: use a AA battery on what you think are speaker wires. It will cause the speaker to make a popping sound so you can identify it, and if you gently caress up and hit the power antenna or other wires, you won't destroy anything. Also, even in shitboxes, the speaker wires are usually color coded to each other. Purple/Purple w/white stripe, etc.
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Feb 7, 2016 20:19
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I'm going with trunk light and/or switch
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Feb 11, 2016 21:18
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As a person who owned a 2001...why?
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Feb 13, 2016 05:31
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But...But it's an intrepid. It's not big. It's not fast. The only thing it has going for it is that it's not a Chrysler 200.
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Feb 13, 2016 06:53
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No title no sale. Should be in the OP.
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Feb 15, 2016 19:51
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The only rubber "rejuvenator" that has worked for me (for old, hard carb boots) is Methyl salicylate (wintergreen oil). I mix it with xylene to speed the absorption process. Seriously don't get it on your skin, though. PROTIP: when searching for bulk quantities, use "methyl salicylate" and not "wintergreen oil," and you'll find much larger amounts for cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/Methyl-Salicy...thyl+salicylate
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Feb 23, 2016 08:56
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Klaus Kinski posted:Nope, still the same oil from when I bought it 1.5 years ago 
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Feb 27, 2016 21:00
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How old is your car? How old is the battery? What kind of lights do you have? Lights can pull between 5-10 amps, and if you left them on for an hour, that would be 10AH, right? But maybe the battery was just under the threshold that it wouldn't start the car. Were other things in the car functional (stereo, etc) when you got back in?
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Feb 27, 2016 23:56
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That said, a lot of the benefits (lighter weight, better MPG) have disappeared with new cars and their essentially computer controlled manual/automatic transmissions, where the automatic is actually a dry clutch manual with a computer doing the clutch and shifting for you. Despite what people, even here, will say, usually the computer does know best (for economy). None of the above applies to slushboxes. The only thing a torque converter does well is make cars that should be dangerously underpowered actually drivable in the city. A torque converter is also a torque multiplier: this is how cars like the autostick beetle got away with only two gears. The first gear was higher than an actual first gear, but the torque converter multiplied torque so you didn't stall out at every light.
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Feb 28, 2016 20:57
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Also, 13k a year is the US average.
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Feb 29, 2016 17:54
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Don't think anybody here has one, iirc.
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Mar 4, 2016 19:05
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You all are wrong. Get a Carson "electronic air horn" amp and an eBay police/ambulance horn. It only makes a honk noise, not a siren, but it's loud as gently caress.
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Mar 11, 2016 04:33
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An avalanche... 
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Mar 18, 2016 03:39
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RCR has just the video for you! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uemr8hJYfr0
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Mar 19, 2016 23:46
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They stopped? Our 2015 Transit ambulances have them.
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Mar 25, 2016 10:22
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200 feet of air hose is comparatively cheap
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Mar 28, 2016 08:45
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Can also drill into the copper remnants and force an oversized wire in, preferably of a thicker stranding.
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Mar 30, 2016 01:56
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You loving dumbass, rusty exhaust and tires are something any car need at some point. You're not gaining anything by trading it in. Keep that reliable car.
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Apr 2, 2016 02:26
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Velcro ties are amazing. Follow that with a piece of ABS heat-bent to the shape you want, and badda bing you've got a cover. The ABS I've used in the past has a texture like this: http://www.amazon.com/ABS-Textured-Plastic-Sheet-Thick/dp/B00U7XHYFO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1459740072&sr=8-6&keywords=abs+sheet (not the one I buy, but a good picture). That's one method that I know, but there are probably a lot more, better, methods.
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Apr 4, 2016 04:21
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Is there a second fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator under the hood?
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Apr 4, 2016 16:54
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Well, there are 300k reservations, so... 300,001?
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Apr 11, 2016 05:10
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A 2006 Honda Fit is not crazy old, and should be fairly reliable. Keep it, I'd say. A car is exactly as nice as you make it.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:31
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 13:52 |
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Godholio posted:Taurus. A Taurus is not a car. It's a fever dream congealed into reality.
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Apr 11, 2016 21:47
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