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Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



I don't have direct experience with them but I see the appeal. No tool, quick, no mess when the drain plug drops into your pan. I don't really see it as a time saver, more just convenience.

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Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



I've always had good results with 3M branded products, that would be my preference.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Get a boxster, you get a good amount of storage space with the frunk and trunk due to being mid engined.

Basics were covered, if you live in a cold climate a convertible is livable through winter but few do and I personally see them as a summer car and having something else to drive in snow. The noise is only an issue on the highway, around town it's not noticeable compared to a hard top.

Get something designed as a convertible, rather than a sedan or coupe with the roof cut off, the lines to be better and you don't get as big of a weight penalty since the chassis was designed without the roof structure rather than having to be modified to be without.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



You'll also get notifications down the line that your warranty is about to expire but they'll gladly help you into a new car.

Even if you only bought parts for it at the service desk.

And it's 03 and has been out of warranty for the majority of it's lifetime.

Leaches.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Yeah, typically they see the same conditions so unless one's hosed because it got smacked into a curb, you typically want to replace them in pairs as the other one is probably going to go bad soon as well.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Typically egt is what limits you. That's why the Porsche variable vane turbo's are $$$$$, they're made with fancier material to deal with the heat.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty has served me well through the years.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



two_beer_bishes posted:

I'm pulling the transmission on my brz for some clutch work.

You likely don't have all the bolts out as was mentioned. Otherwise a neat trick is to let the parts do the work for you and pump the clutch to help separate the trans from the block.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Rhyno posted:

I watched a couple videos, no splines or keys, looks fairly simple. 10mm and 13mm bolts. A few places warn of cheap parts to avoid and none of the parts stores or rock auto carry the part so I just have to sort that out.

How much does it go for at the dealer? Might just be a good idea to go with the FoMoCo one unless it's got a crazy price attached.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



tactlessbastard posted:

The hell is leaking out

My guess would be condensation from the exhaust mixed with exhaust soot. Do you have anything that sounds like an exhaust leak.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



In this particular case you're over reacting. At operating temp 5w30 and 0w30 will be essentially identical in terms of viscosity, and a synthetic oil is better than a conventional or blend in terms of longevity and resistance to breakdown.

The 0 vs 5 simply means at cold temperatures, like when starting the motor after sitting over night, the viscosity of the 0 will be slightly lower than the 5, it's not a huge difference but the lower the temp the more pronounced the difference. In either case at cold temps it's much much much more viscous than when it's near operating temp. 0 will simply mean slightly less wear and tear on the engine and easier cold starting vs the 5.

The only downside is that 0w-30 will have more friction modifiers than 5w-30 but for normal oil change intervals and non motorsport driving I'd take the 0w30 synthetic over 5w30 anyday.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



honda whisperer posted:

You got it, post pics if you get stuck. I agree on all the points above. Let me know of you are going to go for it and I'll start an effort post on the part about burping the coolant system.

Also, quick word of advice, lube is a big help when it comes to removing and reinstalling rubber hoses. Even the "wrong" lubricant like WD40 can make life much easier getting stuff off and on.

When in doubt, lube it.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



DildenAnders posted:

Any advice on how to diagnose it further?

When it acts up being out a BFH and a rod and give the starter a smack.

Alternatively, starters for 02 civics should be cheap as chips so might be worth just firing the parts canon at it since it's the likely culprit anyway.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Bank posted:

Gotcha. Yes it's a real gauge, it starts off on "C" and after driving for 5 minutes it goes slightly below halfway.

That's an idiot light disguised as a guage. Real gaugea will show fluctuation, and will typically have a relatively slow rise to the normal operating temp. Under heavy load and high ambient a real guage will creep up, but an idiot light disguised as a guage will stay in the normal position until you overheat at which point it will promptly indicate 'H'

If you've got a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader you can monitor actual reported coolant temp, otherwise a handheld pyrometer aimed at the radiator or visible coolant pipes will get you pretty close.

Otherwise make sure you top up if you're losing coolant while you diagnose or bring it a shop.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



General rule is if a part is being replaced you're OK with damaging the old one with removal methods.

As mentioned, Hammer, Torch, Grinder, Sawzall, etc are fair game. You're replacing wheel bearings as well so you can get some heat into the rotor hats to help break them loose.

Upon reassembly, apply a light coat of fluid film or grease, or heck WD-40 if you have nothing else between steel mating surfaces like this where things fought you on the way out. Helps reduce future headaches.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Runflats are indeed terrible for ride comfort. Switching to a normal tire (pick something like a nice touring tire, sounds like with your use case it's acceptable to trade some cornering performance for comfort.)

If the suspension is original, your may want to look into new dampers all round, they tend to decay slowly and its hard to notice as they go bad since it's so gradual.

If there's multiple wheel size combos available on your model you might want to look into getting the smallest wheel available to give you as much sidewall as possible. The overall size of the wheel will stay the same but the additional sidewall helps reduce the harshness over bumps

Last suggestion if you're not too attached to this particular one is to go test drive other comparable convertibles like the Boxster or an SLK. It could be the ride quality or it could just be the seat design and ergonomics that don't jive with you.

E: misread coup as convertible, but the last point stands, just replace with cayman and whatever three letter alphabet soup name is the coup for Mercedes.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



If you're not in an area where wheel theft is prevalent I would just force the nuts off and replace with non locking nuts. Should be available from any autoparts store. Buick wheels aren't exactly a highly sought after item.

There's multiple ways of getting the security lugs off without the key. The most common style just requires hammering on a 12pt socket and undoing the nuts. Extractor sockets meant for damaged and rusted nuts can work as well.

Should be some tutorials on YouTube, or the tire ship should be able to force them off.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



DildenAnders posted:

How do manual hybrid cars (like the CR-Z if I'm not mistaken) work? Do they differ in normal driving from a regular manual car?

The CRZ sticks a relatively thin electric motor between the gasoline engine and trans.



You drive it exactly like a regular manual, the amount of assist it can give is within the limits of the trans and its a style of hybrid that needs the gasoline engine running to operate, there's no 100%EV mode that I'm aware of.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Shops will install tires as long as they're above minimum tread depth and have appropriate ratings for your vehicle. Some places are stickier than others on ensuring the size matches the door sticker exactly, with bringing in tires they're likely to be on the stickier side.

Cheap tires have their place, they're better than worn or damaged tires. Place like Walmart won't exactly put the highest level of care into the swap so expect to see a few new scuffs on the rim. They're the only thing connecting your car to the road, and a good quality tire (not necessarily expensive) is worth it to ensure proper performance in emergencies.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Torquemada posted:

a 2012 Ford Transit DPF getting blocked

Your use case is terrible for diesel powered vehicles, it might be injectors causing issues but I would try giving it the equivalent of an Italian tune up, go for a weekly long highway drive (25km - 50km+) and let it get nice and up to temp. It should automatically do regens when it's fully up to temp and traveling at higher speed.

If you're still getting issues, and the injector diag is confirmed by another shop, then yeah reman injectors should be fine for a vehicle you're wanting to get rid of anyway.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Keep in mind too, Michelins are notorious for the top layer of rubber cracking. 4-5 year old tires with decent treadmill should still have a season or two in them.

Can you post a pic? While not entirely possible to diagnose over the internet, an image gives us a much better idea of the extent and severity.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



You'll be fine, gravel won't damage a tire, main reason is when they're hot they'll pick up stones and you might increase the risk of getting scratches on your paint. Depending on your fitment this may be a low risk. Mostly just slow down on turns to avoid throwing stones at your doors.

You'll know relatively quickly if your tires tend to pickup stones, you'll hear them as they bounce off the wheel wells.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Those Toyota studs look like they have a copper anti seize on them rather than a locktite compound based on the color at least.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



eddiewalker posted:

They got tossed around in flimsy cardboard boxes all the way from China. They can handle a drop on the ground. Just check the gaps

Honestly might not even need to do that, they tend to come with little cardboard tubes to protect the business end from exactly this sort of thing. At least all the NGKs I've bought over the years came with that.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Also confirm you have the correct side caliper, bleedscrew should be at the top.

It's an easy mistake to make and if you got a new one then it's possible they gave you the wrong side.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Oh you can tell, when there's a distinct blue glow in the cabin from the cluster it's definitely on the retina searing end of things.

Few people understand how night vision works.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Looks like a NEMA 2-20R. guess PO had some homebrew 12V devices that they could terminate with the matching plug and plug it all in without popping the hood?

Whatever it is, it's a janky setup.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Should be a fairly easy fix.

1. Remove steering wheel (should be able to find a model specific guide online, can be surprisingly easy)

2. Once clock spring is exposed it will either have instructions on centering it, or you do the fool proof method: gently rotate it all the way one way until you encounter resistance.

3. Rotate it the other way, counting the number of turns, until you feel the same resistance.

4. Divide number of rotations in half and spin the clock spring that many times in the opposite direction.

And now it'll be centered.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Cheapest option might just be to stop by the closest non dealer mechanic and pay their diagnostic fee to figure out the noise.

Alternatives being a tow, or rental to leave and come back another day.

Maybe get AAA as well in case it leaves you stranded somewhere?

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



It's OK. I managed to incorrectly torque the drain plug bolt and had a nice large oil slick in the driveway. Got to panic a little as it takes super pooper fancy German oil which I didn't have much of so panic ordered extra and was able to verify that the vacuum cleaner in the fill tube trick works great to allow you to undo the drain and retighten to guttentight.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



You want Butyl rubber, either a peel and stick or a small tube of the stuff. Lots of guides online for removing and installing headlight lenses, same process for foglights, there's a big community into modifying headlights, adding LED accents, projector retrofits, etc.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Its particularly bad with Hyundai/Kia though, maybe it's been better in recent years but my ownership of a Veloster Turbo was filled with bullshit mostly due to dealer incompetence and firing the wrong parts through the parts cannon. The dealer network still seems to be stuck in the "bad days" of Hyundai/Kia and they seem to know it since their luxury marque Genesis operates separately from their dealer network (or at least it used to).

We've had much better experiences at the local Subaru and Honda dealers, not to mention at a luxury dealer like Porsche.

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Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



DildenAnders posted:

Any fluid can be blinker fluid if you're brave enough.

I know what I must do but I know not if I have the strength stamina to do it.

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