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Geoj posted:Actually, I would argue that replacing a single shock/strut and leaving whatever was on the car when he bought it is borderline dangerous since you'll be unbalancing things with one brand new shock and leaving three (likely) blown to poo poo shocks. And in the post you loving quoted: kastein posted:Springs and shocks should be replaced as a pair Are you just off your meds or are you always like this about suspension and power generation? I didn't give you that title but it was well deserved and it is even funnier since you removed it like 5 minutes later. Jesus man. At least up here in the potholed, rusted north, swaybar links are a wear item that goes out well before our paltry emaciated sun ever manages to come close to cooking the bushings. I've seen factory bushings with 200k miles on them that had great looking rubber, replaced them because I was in there anyways and figured I should, and had the drat premium grade replacement fail in 6 months to the point that it was direct metal on metal contact. This is why I say unless it is a spring or damping element... replace it if it looks bad, or if you are in there and it looks suspect. Otherwise leave it alone.
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Jul 5, 2015 17:00
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Geoj posted:Which I read as "replace the pair, spring and shock." That won't be necessary, I am pretty sure I and everyone else (though I can't speak for them) would be perfectly alright with you posting, just not posting bad and wrong things.  Extra posted:Huh that's super cool to hear from your experience. I was considering ordering new ball joints, sway bar bushings + end links, tie rod ends, and control arms for the Paseo. Hearing that it might be better to just keep the stock stuff until an issue appears is music to my wallet. More money means more seat time! As I recall you autocross it. Or is that the Ford? For DD style A to B driving, what I said holds. If you want performance handling though, you don't want old squishy (but not cracked or loose) bushings deflecting and potentially loving up your toe/camber/caster by a tiny bit during aggressive cornering, or TREs and balljoints being close to getting loose, even if they pass the prybar test, so I would probably freshen it up. Unless something is definitely broken, it is all about what you expect from the vehicle.
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Jul 6, 2015 15:22
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Bend all the poo poo that got bent in the fender bender until the hood will open again - unless it's just plain too caved in to be able to do that. They are quoting price to make it look good again, all you need is for the hood to open again. Unless you just want a new car, in which case, that's your decision, just don't kid yourself about why you're doing it.
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Jul 8, 2015 00:19
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as long as none of it is chrome plated plastic I would start with acetone, it will probably work, is reasonably benign compared to many other painting solvents, and leaves zero residue. (It might also be my favorite solvent ever. I use that stuff for drat near everything I can because it works and a little goes a long way.)
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Jul 8, 2015 04:39
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That picture is loving ginormous, but yeah that's a common issue. You don't have it very bad yet, I've seen the notches 1/8" deep and a quarter inch wide. Grind them out until you get to shiny metal, stack MIG weld beads till it's proud of the surface, and grind/file down till it's all a straight smooth square edge again. All fixed. The knuckles are cast steel, not cast iron, so ignore all the redneck internet wisdom you'll get on jeep sites about that making them brittle, the knuckles cracking if you do that, blah blah bullshit. I've done this on 3-4 vehicles (and many of my friends have as well as hundreds or thousands of jeep owners worldwide) and so far I have heard of precisely zero knuckle failures. e: that's the outer steering knuckle.
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Jul 10, 2015 00:02
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I've done em with a 110v welder no problem, hell, even a fluxcore. Also, yours is really really not that bad, you can probably safely ignore it for like another 75k miles before you actually have to do anything about that. Ideal? No. Works? Yes.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:03
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Connect the battery the right way around and pray you didn't just do four figures in damage to your electrical system by hooking it up backwards. 99% of the time that's because the battery is in backwards, double check your terminals before hooking it up again.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:38
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Check the balljoints too. I have seen balljoints give that kind of steering feel and one ended up snapping in half on a friend of mine shortly afterwards. Fortunately it happened as he was driving down my street 150' from my property, so we dragged it back and fixed it. Balljoint stud snapped in half due to being seized for so long which fatigued the stud, suspension collapsed, CV shaft separated. We ended up doing both lower balljoints, both front wheel bearings, the front brakes, and a CV shaft all that day because on that design you can't get the balljoints (or the brakes) out without pulling the wheel bearings out and the bearings and brakes were due for replacement anyways. But yes, have that fixed immediately.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:59
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kid sinister posted:I learned this a couple weeks ago. As far as watch batteries go, be sure to Google around with the battery size number. There are several different standards. For example, size LR44 = L1154 = AG13 = 157. The best thing about standards is that there are so many to choose from!
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Jul 14, 2015 00:05
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They probably meant insulated. I would skip that step entirely, ignition systems run at voltages well in excess of anything any of the pliers I own are rated for.
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Jul 14, 2015 03:10
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Hold the threaded part of the plug against a grounded surface of the engine (generally the head is what I use) firmly and stay away from the insulator and high tension lead while someone cranks it. As long as you're touching the grounded part and not near the HV parts you will be fine. Unplug the injector for that cylinder so you aren't shooting air/fuel mix out the plug hole while testing for spark a few inches away.
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Jul 14, 2015 04:31
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Are you sure it isn't the amp gauge? Also, it really shouldn't bubble 
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Jul 14, 2015 18:21
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HotCanadianChick posted:Adjustable wrenches are the devil. Use proper size open-end or combination wrenches. Look at this guy who doesn't own a locking adjustable  I have actually used mine on brake line flare nuts because it holds them better than a few of my line wrenches do, especially after they've had just enough rusted off to not be 3/8" anymore, but not enough to be 5/16".
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Jul 15, 2015 15:26
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Mercury Ballistic posted:A general OBDII question: has anyone experienced a situation where their car is CEL free for extended periods, but after letting someone else drive CELs appear out of the ether? I have had this more than a few times with my truck. In one case the previous driver got them, then when I took over ownership they vanished. Any ideas? Depends entirely on the particular DTC triggered, make, model, year, engine, transmission, and even firmware revision. If you keep the tank above like 1/2 to 7/8 of a tank (depends on make/model/year) the evap leak tests will never run, for instance. If you don't, they will! If you really romp on it, you're going to clean a lot more carbon and garbage out of the system and may keep it in open loop more of the time so it's less likely to detect a minor AFR related issue. If you demand a lot from your ignition system it is more likely to misfire. Many 96 Subarus are known for never, ever passing emissions due to really fucky first-year OBD2 implementation. If you have a dead spot in the TPS, it may freak out and report it if your driving style involves keeping the throttle there for long periods of time but it may never notice that spot is bad if you're a binary throttle, hammer down pin-it-to-win-it racecar driver. I was working on a project to fool the TCU on a 98-01 4.0L automatic Jeep Cherokee into never throwing any transmission codes even if the solenoids were disconnected and wired to a homebuilt flappy paddle shifter and was CEL free for a loving month of daily driving, then I romped on it a lot right in the RPM/throttle/speed range where it tried to do a 2-3 upshift due to throttle lift just as I did a manual 3-2 downshift and was going to hammer on it. It immediately threw a solenoid function DTC. It really depends and there are any number of explanations and edge cases where your driving style can make codes go away or come back.
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Jul 22, 2015 00:57
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Yeah, for sure. For instance I could keep the codes away for weeks on my 01 dodge 2500 w/ a 5.2L V8 and 46RE transmission by romping on it all through first gear, then letting up to barely above idle right as it tried to shift to second gear so it wouldn't do a burnout with the bands/clutches, then once it had finished shifting, romp on it again. If I had to just lay into it to avoid getting run down by traffic, it'd slip like a bastard and go into limp mode.
kastein fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jul 22, 2015 |
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Jul 22, 2015 01:15
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That is an "inside clip" style ujoint so you don't have to worry about snapping the little cap retention nibs off the yoke. Jam a prybar between the ujoint and the diff yoke and hit it with a hammer to pry the ujoint out of the yoke. The slip yoke will come out of the rear end end of the transmission when you slide the whole shebang back after getting the ujoint unstuck from the yoke. The transmission fluid will immediately follow it, so have a transmission buttplug or at least a rubber glove and a ziptie handy to try and minimize the amount that ends up on your shop floor/driveway... or put a drain pan under it and refill with new fluid after, it probably could use it anyways.
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Jul 27, 2015 17:15
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If so, at least the auto trans will be misshifting instead of him now  don't think it is the same guy but it would be funny.
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Jul 28, 2015 04:35
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choprite posted:Hey all, Walk away. This is not going to work well when you try to register it, period. The only ways you are going to succeed here are: - if CA allows vehicles over a certain age (1982 probably does not qualify in CA but I have no firsthand knowledge of this. Ask the DMV what their title requirement cutoff is) to be registered using a previous registration and a bill of sale from the named person on the registration to you, you need the old registration and a bill of sale from that party to you. - otherwise, you need to find the last person who actually titled it, have them file for a duplicate title, and sell it to you. A cockamamie story that goes "I have a title signed over to this person and some bills of sale written on napkins from that person to this one, and this one to that one, and that one to me" is just entertainment for the DMV person who will ultimately tell you to go fish. At least if CA is anything like MA - which I bet it is. Only backwater states like Maine and NH are allowing BOS+old registration titlings these days. If you insist on buying this one... get the last owner who titled it properly to do the title paperwork before you ever pay the person holding the vehicle right now. Otherwise, you are just going to end up reselling it on craigslist with the same exact song and dance, except now there will be 3 daisychained bills of sale and the next guy still won't be able to register it. Worstcase, said previous owner who titled it properly can claim you stole it from them and get it back, now that they know where it is and still have legal title claim to it.
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Aug 13, 2015 03:44
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SlayVus posted:Anything I should do to figure out what caused this break? I've already ordered a replacement part, but I don't want it to break in me because the one I bought was the only one I could find. Looks like a 91-98 Jeep 4.0L and you should just junkyard the bracket, it'll cost you like ten bucks and they are everywhere. Also, you are missing the other half of the bracket (it's a stamped steel piece that goes on the front and holds down with a handful of nuts and the two bolts through the alternator) which is why you are breaking brackets and likely bolts in the future. You have bolts instead of studbolts in the two positions that go through the timing cover and block into the bracket that broke, as well, you'll need those. You can grab all of this in about 15-45 minutes at the junkyard depending on your skill level.
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Aug 15, 2015 00:40
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SlayVus posted:Only problem with this is that I'm looking at a 2 hour round trip for this. It looks like this, including the bolts and aluminum bracket, not sure this is the right year but it is the right idea:  The left side of the pic is the bottom of the bracket. The lack of a steel front plate is making the alternator cant sideways under belt load, this resulted in the bolts breaking and the alt falling out of Sandbagger's MJ twice because some chucklefuck mechanic/PO thought it was too annoying to put back in. In your case it appears to be breaking the bracket instead. Easy fix with junkyard parts, confirm the year and I can give you a range of donors to grab one from at the JY, then show up at the sellers house (assuming you are buying it) and install it in his driveway and drive the thing home.
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Aug 15, 2015 03:51
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you can fit ten people in full gear in the back of an M54A2 if you get the optional dual row bench seats, along with two in the cab. You know what must be done.
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Aug 15, 2015 15:23
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You could also get a shortbus and put monster truck tires on it. Or a buick roadmaster, if you want everyone behind you to honk when your kids reach their teens and realize they can flip off their captive audience while riding in the back.
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Aug 15, 2015 19:56
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Raluek posted:Here's a kind of stupid question: what do you do with junk oily parts? For instance, I have an oil pan that I'm never going to use because the motor ate a bearing and I don't trust it to be free of particulates. I wouldn't want to sell it for the same reason. I'd expect that metal recycling places wouldn't want something with that much oil in it, too, right? So what do? Let most of the oil drain into a drain pan, then recycle however you want. Hell they probably don't care as it is... they shred and crush junk cars that have many of the fluids (ps, diffs, brake system, sometimes ac and tranny/tcase depending on how lazy they are) still in them and recycle the metal without a care in the world. Second option: bring it to your favorite junkyard and whip it into the car they are using as a dumpster presently. Most upulls will have a car off to the side somewhere that they've torn the roof open on, then loaded with castoff parts and junk from the aisles, closed back up, and will crush. They basically use them as a dumpster, crush the debris burrito of a car, and send it off as scrapmetal. e: it doesn't really affect the steel they make from the scrap, either, just burns off in the furnace and becomes smoke and slag. As long as it isn't trailing a stream of oil that will net them an EPA violation they simply do not care. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Aug 16, 2015 |
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Aug 16, 2015 01:08
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that looks like the results of a badly unbalanced tire, a defective tire, and/or a blown shock/strut on that corner. Was that tire ever driven on while flat or low on air?
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Aug 16, 2015 03:17
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EightBit posted:The bearings in the rear axle of my Jeep (dana 35 axle, btw) are lubricated by gear oil in the differential case. I don't see a pump anywhere in that thing, how the gently caress do the bearings get enough oil? Surely it's not just a case of hoping that you take corners hard enough to sling oil down the tube, because I do lots of straight-line highway driving, and the factory bearing lasted 195,000 miles. That oil gets thrown pretty loving far when the diff is spinning at ~750rpm (highway speed on stock tires) - you'd be surprised.
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Aug 17, 2015 23:57
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IIRC the way SKIM works is the module is just a receiver and the actual checking is done by the ECU, but I may be misremembering this. You can also unplug the SKIM and get an ECU from a donor car with the same engine/trans/year and no SKIM and just plug it in. SKIM delete complete.
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Aug 18, 2015 18:28
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Yeah, but it's almost trivial to get a 2WD truck stuck in a soupy rutted out construction site after a day of rain, usually.
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Aug 22, 2015 01:08
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You asked on IRC already and the answer is still let them total it and get another car. You've had it for 2 weeks, done zero modifications to it, just get another of the same color/options/etc and move on with your life.
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Aug 28, 2015 18:16
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Yeah, the most you are going to get from even a fairly large alternator is around 160 amps @ 13.8VDC, which works out to 2200 watts. Honestly, you are better off blowing like 500 bucks on a 15kW (18kW surge rating) splitphase generator head and strapping it to any gas engine that can give you about 30hp at 3600rpm. Getting clever with turbo parts and alternators and belts and stuff is fun and all but it's not going to give you anywhere near the power output per dollar that the conventional method does, and will be less reliable. e: I am biased toward this because I have just such a generator head in my basement, most of the measurements figured out, and the engine sitting there waiting. The auto transfer switch is already installed and hooked up too. Just need to get the drat bridgeport up and running so I can make the adapter plate and the lathe running so I can make the adapter shaft, that's all
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Sep 3, 2015 06:39
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One of my friends a whopping 15 miles away also has his going, but hassling him into doing it both wastes his time and reduces my impetus to get my mill operational, as would your suggestion, so I'm going to pretend you didn't say that because it's far too logical an idea 
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Sep 3, 2015 08:32
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It really depends on the transmission design. The traditional 5 speed over/under countershaft design really doesn't care. Here's why: Input power comes in through the input shaft, and immediately drives the countershaft via the two gears at the very front of the unit. So the countershaft is always spinning, and slinging oil. From there, it spins the 1/2/3 mainshaft gears, which are just idling along on the mainshaft unless you're in gear. The 5th gear setup is generally different, as the synchro hub is on the end of the countershaft instead of being on the mainshaft to simplify the design. (And also because most 5 speeds I've seen are simply an old 4 speed design with a fifth gearset scabbed on on the far side of the midplate or outside the main case in a toploader.) So if you stop in gear with your foot on the clutch, you're loading the throwout bearing and that's it. If you stop in neutral with your foot off the clutch you are spinning the input shaft, the input shaft to mainshaft pocket bearing, the countershaft, the 1/2/3 mainshaft gears, and the 5th gear synchro hub. They're all under practically no load and slinging oil as they normally would. I keep saying 1/2/3 and 5th... 4th is special because in most 5 speeds it's your direct gear. AKA the 3/4 synchro sleeve simply slides forward and bridges the input shaft to the mainshaft across the pocket bearing and the countershaft and every mainshaft gear are just along for the ride. In fact rolling along in fourth gear in most transmissions is going to be roughly the same as idling in neutral, or revving in neutral. I'm leaving reverse gear and other things like that out of this because they are very rarely used, hours-of-operation wise, so it's not really worth worrying over. There is always debate about whether loading the throwout bearing for that long is good for it. I doubt it really matters, but you cannot deny that loading the bearing more (beyond the bare minimum that will keep the grease evenly distributed, which you easily exceed just shifting into gear the first time in every drive) is going to wear it out faster. Will it be faster enough to actually cause noticeable wear? I don't know and I don't care, idling in neutral doesn't hurt anything else so I just idle in neutral at lights. If I don't "know" the traffic pattern at a light, and didn't see it turn red, I'll work my way down through the gears, rev matching and engine braking, until either traffic starts moving or I need to stop. If I know the light I'll usually roll up to it in neutral idling and just grab the right gear when it's time to either keep moving or start moving. I doubt any of it really matters much unless you are absolutely horrible to your clutch and synchros, in which case, you know it (because you smell the clutch, or are lurching all over the place and giving your passengers whiplash and making pedestrians wonder if your car is broken or not) and should learn better. e: very little of this applies to weird poo poo like VAG and subaru transaxles because they are goofy setups with two shafts inside each other to drive the front diff and you should stare at how they're put together and come to your own conclusion on those.
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Sep 4, 2015 03:24
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The recommendation on the rubber isn't a recommendation, it's the maximum safe pressure. Go with the one on the door jamb as long as the tires are the same size (for example 225/75R15 on a jeep cherokee.) Very common misconception you had there - wouldn't believe how many people are rolling around with their civic's tires at 50psi instead of 32 because the tire said it could handle it. It might improve your mileage a small amount (not very much) but it significantly reduces traction, ride quality, and in some cases tread wear life.
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Dec 30, 2015 18:30
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Yep. In my case, running 285/75R16s on a truck that came with 225/75R15s required that I run 25psi instead of 32-35psi for even tire wear and good handling. In general, increasing tire rolling diameter or section width will require less pressure, while decreasing rolling diameter or width will require more. You need to experiment though to find the ideal pressure for a given vehicle weight and tire diameter+section width.
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Dec 30, 2015 23:35
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Zero VGS posted:I have an auto insurance question, didn't see a thread for that here or BFC so I figure I'll just ask. Ask them for enough lithium batteries to fill an Got any pics of the damage? The "safety frame", from the articles I've read, sounds like a typical modern unibody, not anything crazy advanced. Depending on the damage, pulling the dents may or may not be acceptable. PS: put collision coverage on your car if you care about it, that's what it's for. I don't bother because I can buy a replacement vehicle in the same condition for less than the premium increase costs over 2-3 years, but if you have a car that's actually in good shape, protect it.
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Dec 31, 2015 19:33
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General_Failure posted:I'm sure people like kastein could answer this one while comatose. Yeah, IIRC Dex3/4 is the factory spec. Raluek posted:No he's right, sometimes the D-window does look better. It's not common, but it happens. Once in a while V5s look better than either, too. I bought mine because the D windows and soft 8s were both out of stock and I needed wheels RFN... and ended up liking them.
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Jan 8, 2016 18:01
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Don't know why I bothered to look this up (probably because I remember the A340E which requires a HFM fluid making it into some Jeeps), but yeah the 42RE transmissionuses ATF+3, so yeah if Dexron 3 is equivalent then that's cool. The 42RE and AW4/A340E are not the same transmission. XJs got AW4s/A340Es, which use Dexron, ZJs got 42REs which use Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 depending on vintage. Basically just use the latest Dexron/Mercon spec, they're generally backward compatible. You can use whatever brand or flavor you like, I use the cheapest I can get because almost every, if not every ATF on the market is full synthetic, so there's very little real difference between them as long as they meet the spec IMO.
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Jan 11, 2016 19:47
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Whatever you do, don't buy ULTRAPOWER balljoints or other suspension parts. gently caress them. SlimManFat bought an ULTRAPOWER control arm for someone's Ford Edge (iirc) and it failed on his test drive. Balljoint fell the gently caress out of the arm it was pressed into at the factory. I bought ULTRAPOWER balljoints for my Forester and after about 1 year and 50k miles, the front left one was discovered to have 1/4" of radial play in it. I'd heard a funny clunking noise going over bumps but discovered a completely shagged out swaybar bushing that explained it well and decided to just deal with it the next time I was doing other suspension work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLAPaujRGyQ never again
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May 10, 2016 21:31
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Sounds like a resonator to me. Anyone know of a donor vehicle for some wheels that are: - 12 inch diameter - 4x100 bolt pattern - width not overly important - I'll figure out backspacing later. Right now, as much as possible, I can run spacers if needed - common as dirt in the northeastern US so I can junkyard some wheels easily I know this is a tall order but, welp. Not so many 12 inch wheel donors in the first place. If the backspacing is deep and they are common and cheap enough, any other bolt pattern I can get cheap adapters to 4x100 for is fine too. Steel preferred for brake clearance.
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Jun 2, 2016 02:22
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some texas redneck posted:Any reason you can't do 13s? That would give you a few more options. yes, that's why I specifically asked for 12s. I don't know what it is but every time I ask this, no matter where, I get any number of people offering me 13s, 14s, 15s, 16s, sometimes with the justification that they come with tires. The problem is, it doesn't solve the problem... e: trailer wheels are interesting as a suggestion, I found some 4x100 patterned 12s that come with brand new 4.80x12 tires for 55 bucks each. Might have to try to find one of those wheels locally to testfit before buying. http://shop.wheelsexpressonline.com/12-inch-Trailer-wheels-and-480-12-tires-12-4-lug-w-spoke-530.htm kastein fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jun 2, 2016 |
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Jun 2, 2016 19:20
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Geoj posted:$530/month isn't going to be the result of a few speeding tickets, that's a few DUIs/wreckless operation or a string of at fault accidents territory. Or else you're getting screwed by a perfect storm of bad actuarial statistics for your car (combination of high accident/theft/ticket rates and/or disproportionate number of owners under 25), same for your garage address with your own driving record, credit, age and marital status contributing as well. I'm paying more than that in the same state as him and you know why? A stack of "failure to inspect" tickets and an exhaust ticket. AKA no inspection sticker. That's with 3 cars registered, but the lions share of it is surcharges from this state being retarded about what's surchargeable. Also, insurance procedure is different state to state. I've never been quoted 6 months at a time here, just for the whole year. Somehow despite my financial problems a few years ago being far worse than his, I've never had to pay a whole year of insurance upfront.
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Jun 27, 2016 16:27
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