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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

SpeedFreek posted:

That's what I was thinking, but what did Dodge/Cummins do to make that happen? It does go into a high idle mode if you let it idle long enough but not until it's been running 5+ minutes.


The trick to fast modern warm-up is to have a pile of cooling loops for the coolant to travel based on its temperature. It's optimized for block/catalyst warmup. One reduces particulates, the other increases catalyst efficiency and lifespan.

It started happening in gassers 20ish years ago. Didn't really start seeing the tech transfer to diesels till the common-rail era.
Powersports made the change somewhere around the same era as cars. If you're curious there's conversion kits for klrs that change how its coolant system operates to be more ... consistent.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
That truck shouldn't have control arms but rather a Dana 44 on leaf-springs.

16.5s can be had but they almost universally suck now.
Go for a 17 to be futureproof.

It shouldn't rub with 33s but if the tire does rub the leaf spring the knuckle has a bolt for adjusting the steering lock.
Adjust the lock until the tire is 1/8-1/4" clear of the spring that way there's no possible contact when loaded.

Be very aware of your truck's hub diameter. It shouldn't be an issue with the Dana 44 but the 60s run larger hubs than the other domestics equipped with that axle. Not all OEM takeoffs will just bolt on. Most anything aftermarket should be fine.

To get the right backspacing, do some measuring. No, do more. It doesn't hurt to make a jig out of w/e is laying around to get a physical representation of different offsets.


I'm running 17s from Method on a kingpin 60 of similar width to your vintage of 44. I did adjust the steering lock bolts a little but the truck is on 37s.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Colostomy Bag posted:

They are still replacing frames. Coworker had his replaced a few months ago.

I should go buy a taco

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
It shouldn't take 1000 miles to set monitors. Find the exact procedure for your car and follow it to the letter. "Varied" driving won't set the catalyst efficiency monitor easy.

AIR (air injection, catalyst warm up) and HRT(oxygen sensor heaters) are typically set on cold start. There's conditionals depending on the make. Some do not like having the brake touched, others want 45-90 seconds of idle time.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Cactus Ghost posted:

stupid automotive question: how hosed am i if i buy a pre-CA-smog (1975 or earlier) jeep cj? i know jeeps are legendary for how much money you can pour into them, my question is how much will I have to pour into it to daily drive it and/or go play in the dirt on my off days


Depends on skill, persistence, tools, and space to work on it.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Seconding underinflation damage.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

XYZAB posted:

If my car’s line voltage dips between 12 and 14 volts inconsistently while idling or driving, that’s a pretty surefire sign that the alternator is on its way out, yeah?

I’ve been trying to tackle this electrical gremlin for a while. Every time I’ve tested the DC voltage with a multimeter at idle it shows ~14V, so I was quick to dismiss the alternator as being the problem.

Then I realized there’s a battery voltmeter monitor hidden in my car’s default selectable gauge cluster, so I’ve been driving around with it in that mode and watching it closely. It takes a while of driving around for it to get above 13.5V, and the lead up time to anything approaching 14V is suspiciously long. If it were functioning properly I’d be getting a consistent 14+ V as soon as it’s idling, and furthermore, while I’m driving, right?

I know not what car you drive. PCM controlled alternators will be subject to the PCM's control. Meaning that they'll charge when it is most efficient to do so.

Varying charge Voltage ramp rates depends on the loads running and state of charge of the battery. You could also be experiencing a failing battery via weak cell. It could also be numerous loads taxing the alternator's output. They typically do not do rated power at idle. Nor are they rated for continuous duty at their rated power.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

sarcastx posted:

Ordered a refurbed A/C compressor for my ute (trust me I'd rather have ordered a new part) and it arrived yesterday looking like this:

I'm assuming this is a useless unit, right, and I should get them to send another unit?
That's where the discharge hose interfaces with the compressor so I'd assume this isn't going to be an effective sealing surface...

It's dead Jim

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

I've seen that much work get quoted that high any number of times with family and friends, not that I'd pay it. I'd driveway that repair for like 400 in parts and go get an alignment after.

This is also my experience. That's not out of line depending on some locales.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

IOwnCalculus posted:

We're in a world where quick-lube places are charging $100 for a regular five quart change.

Yeuuup!
The local small engine place here in Northern California charges $100/hr.

To which, I don't blame them, and also, I would not work on SE for that rate.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

honda whisperer posted:

Get a torque wrench. All of you. Lug nuts HOLD YOUR WHEELS ON.

What I do with those nuts is not your business!


The other thing to consider is when overshooting the torque spec it stresses the lug stud, hub, nut, wheel, etc.

I kept three torque wrenches on board while on the road. Any time I rotated the tires on the vehicle it got torqued to spec and rechecked at 50 and then 150 miles. Outside of that? Most of the time I don't bother. My hands are pretty well calibrated. Other areas for whipping out the torque wrench is flywheel bolts, steering, suspension work, and brakes.

HF wrenches are ok enough for the home gamer. It's more important to develop good tool care and unwind its spring, don't leave it out in the rain, use it as a hammer or prybar, etc. Know that there's a range their good at. A 150ft-lb rated wrench is gonna be most accurate between 40 and 130ish ft-lb so don't use it for torquing down m6 coolant pump bolts. Get the inch pound jobbie for that.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Pollyanna posted:

Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit.

Several goons here have done it over the ages.


Leperflesh posted:

I think new cars sold today have like 30 computers in them and in 20 years none of those specific computer boards will still be made and they'll be un-maintainable within 30 once old stock of those parts runs out. Modern cars are vastly, vastly safer though so if you care about not dying, please just drive a reasonably modern vehicle. I say that as a Car Liker and AI alum: playing around with old cars that you can rebuild forever is a cool and good hobby, but if you are going to get smashed by one of today's enormously overweight road queens, you want to do it inside a car with 8 airbags.

Twenty year old cars have 20 some odd computers in them. L322 rangies based on the first gen x5(2003-2005) iirc had 23 on board. I once met a person that put their battery in backwards taking all of them plus the water cooled alternator out. In 2011. Pretty sure it was a write off.





yamdankee posted:

2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport 90k miles well maintained

I drove it all around town this morning, highway, stop and go, no problems at all. Got home, parked it in driveway.

I get in a few hours later, start it, put it in reverse and the car vibrates/shakes in reverse and drive. I turned it off and on again, same thing. Took other car instead.

What the heck?

Googling says it could be a bad coil pack and to disconnect them one at a time while the engine is running to find the bad one. Is that a safe thing to try?

Edit: And it’s fine now an hour later…..??

Don't unplug the coils while its running. That's not kind to the pcm. Try instead to pull pending misfire dtcs and counts off the pcm.
Old coils tend to flake out when heat soaked.



kid sinister posted:

I started doing the rear disc brakes on my 2016 Ford F150 without putting the truck in brake maintenance mode, mostly because I didn't know it existed. So I got the brakes all apart. I need to withdraw the calipers to get the new pads over the new rotors. So I looked up the procedure online since I've never done pads with an electronic parking brake before. At this point I put the truck in brake maintenance mode and the dash now says "Parking Brake Malfunction Service Now".

What the hell do I do?

Edit: I just got squirted with brake fluid from the rear right caliper, the side with the destroyed rotor. It squirted from between the rubber boot and piston. Do I have a bad caliper too?

Forscan may cover resetting the epb system. There is not supposed to be brake fluid there. You'd have a soft pedal/loss of reservoir level too so also check that.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
I'm also on team buttsplices. Ime soldered joints fail a lot faster in environments with high intensity vibrations. Motos, 4wds, things with simple diesels.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
LMC Truck.

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