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Geirskogul posted:Protip: don't throw parts at a car. Instructions unclear, Threw parts at dealership. Issue seems resolved anyways.
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Feb 8, 2015 02:43
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DeusExMachinima posted:Thread delivers, voted 5. Old Bugattis, Bentleys and Cadillacs will probably do it for you too. As an added bonus, Ettore Bugatti was once quoted as saying his chief rival W. O. Bentley made "the world's fastest lorries" due to the latter's obsession with durability and the former's love of aesthetics. Also, if you want to drool over something modern with that classical styling, look into the English company of Morgan.
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Apr 8, 2015 01:16
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I work at O'Reilly's. There should be a portable battery/alternator/starter tester there behind a counter somewhere that they can use (so long as your battery isn't in some strange location like behind a fender well). If your car is either on the side of the street within sight of the store or in a parking lot within sight of the store, you might be able to talk someone into walking down there to run the test depending how busy it is. (And depending how lazy the person behind the counter is. While I would do it if it was my store, I can't speak for anyone else.)
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Apr 23, 2015 02:58
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VelociBacon posted:Buy a cheap multimeter from wherever and (if your car starts) measure how much current you have at the battery terminals with the car off as well as on. Check to see if any fuses are visibly burnt out in the fuse box under the hood. This is probably the better option if its that far away.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:00
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Its my first time pulling a drive shaft out of a car. Is there anything I should do in advance or watch out for? (aside from apply parking brake, block the wheels and don't just shove the shaft back into the transmission side when done) EDIT: Vehicle is an '05 avalanche
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Apr 24, 2015 00:09
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Raluek posted:If you're pulling the yoke out of the transmission, be advised that the tailshaft seal often rides on the yoke. So, you might get a nice fluid surprise when you pull it out. Replacing this seal is actually why I'm pulling the driveshaft out.  EDIT: Or rather, replacing the "extension housing gasket/seal" Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Apr 24, 2015 |
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Apr 24, 2015 05:41
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Budgie posted:Are UK car problems welcome in this thread? A lovely replacement fuse or a bad connection/wiring causing a short would be my guess.
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May 1, 2015 18:10
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Nvm, hit it with a hammer until I felt better. This solved the problem.
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 21:16 on May 10, 2015 |
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May 10, 2015 20:57
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I know having coolant line handle fuel is generally a bad thing, but what about the other way around. Can I have coolant running through a fuel line without issue?
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May 31, 2015 03:13
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2005 Chevy Avalanche 1500 I've got a problem where while driving, the engine will suddenly bog down and then die within a couple seconds after a random amount of time driving. I still have electrical power from the battery but lose all power steering which is a bit terrifying in a 6000lb vehicle. The only code that a reader will show is a code for the fuel evap emissions system having a leak. This code has been constant for several years due to me driving on lovely dusty lime rock roads and I am 95% sure its unrelated to the current issue. I've got no sort of vehicle theft deterrent that would cause this that I'm aware of since my vehicle doesn't have a transponder in the key fob. I just replaced all 8 plugs and wires and installed a brand new fuel pump attempting to fix the issue, but the issue has persisted. After a while of talking to a co-worker, we settled on it possibly being the mass air flow sensor or carbon buildup in the throttle body. Any goons want to weigh in with an opinion? EDIT 2: Throttle body cleaned and a new MAF senser. Still have the issue. 
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Jun 6, 2015 |
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Jun 5, 2015 20:02
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What is the best way to tell if an idler pulley is bad and causing a squeaking/squealing noise?
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Jun 23, 2015 01:59
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Geoj posted:Remove the belt and turn the idler by hand. If its really bad you should be able to hear it, but I'd feel for resistance as you spin it by hand. I had done this and I think I can hear a faint sound of metal scraping, but no resistance. I really only hear it when the engine is revving up above idle, so I dunno. I've already replaced the tensioner pulley while trying to track down the source of the squeal, so I'll probably just throw the other pulley at it when I'm at work tomorrow and call it good enough. Its not like pulling the belt off of a 5.3 in a truck is hard. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 03:17
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Friar Zucchini posted:What are AI's general thoughts on LED replacement bulbs? Most important is I want brighter brake lights on my Suburban since red lights on a red truck don't stand out as much in the daytime. Looking at these in particular, in red of course. I'm toying with the idea of swapping out all lighting on both my cars with LEDs, but I'll keep the turn signals stock since I don't wanna have to complicate things with resistors to keep the turn signals from hyperflashing, and I prefer the softer on/off effect of incandescent lights for flashing turn signals anyway. Also I know of AI's opinion of HID replacements for halogen headlights, and I'm guessing that applies to LEDs as well so I'm leaving them stock. I've seen those sold a few times at work and about 60% of the time, they come back for just flat out not working. They feel unbelievably cheap and crappy (You feel like you're going to break the things just getting them out of the little "Try me!" tester they com in) and I have yet to see someone satisfied with them.
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Jun 24, 2015 20:49
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Not necessarily. Your evap codes refer to the fuel evap system which just takes the excess fuel vapor from your tank and stores it to burn later while driving. It generally won't damage anything short term and can be caused by something as simple as a faulty sensor/solenoid or a pinhole leak.
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Jun 25, 2015 18:17
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LargeHadron posted:I have a 2014 Kia Soul Plus. The high *and* low beams went out on the left side. I only noticed recently, but I assume it happened at the same time. It's two different bulbs, right? It seems like a strange coincidence that both would go out on the same side at (presumably) the same time, so I wonder could it be something other than bad bulbs? Turn the vehicle on, see which light lights up with low beams on the right side and see if the same one lights up when you switch to high beams. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 02:26
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I'm shocked shelby took his greatest rival stealing his name lying down. The animosity wasn't much between carrol shelby and enzo ferrari iirc, It was Henry Ford the 2nd that got his panties in a twist thanks to the italian stallion. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jul 21, 2015 |
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Jul 21, 2015 00:36
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Mr. Wiggles posted:There is nothing to plug a scanner into in a 1990, as far as I know. Its still entirely possible it has an OBD I port. Call a nearby parts store and ask them if they can do it.
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Jul 24, 2015 21:15
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Yinzer posted:I have a question in regards to parts. Don't they make OEM and aftermarket stuff in the same factory, on the same assembly lines and just stamp in a brand? While there are some examples of places only swapping a brand, its pretty rare to see it. Almost anything you buy at a parts store or similar is going to be made on a different assembly line or remanufactured by a 3rd party like A1 Cardone. And generally you are paying a premium for the OEM branding and motorcraft seems to be the absolute worst offender that I've seen so far. It generally depends on the shop doing the work. I have some shops I deliver to that don't mark up prices from their discounted price, I have some that charge retail price and there are some that go above retail price. But generally, unless you discuss it with the shop doing the work, don't bring your own parts in.
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Aug 1, 2015 03:59
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some texas redneck posted:My own question. 06 Saturn Ion 3 coupe, though this should apply to any year model Ion. I've seen a co-worker use clear nail polish before to seal up some paint damage and keep it from getting worse until she could have it resprayed. She said it worked really well and didn't seem to react with the paint in any way. A shot of clear plastidip might also do the trick?
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Aug 10, 2015 06:01
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TheReverend posted:I have a Chevrolet Avalanche (2004). Open the hood and check to see if you have a pair of metal lines going into the passenger side of the radiator. If so, you have one from the factory. And you likely won't need it unless you are towing in an area with a lot of elevation changes or start stop driving. Edit: Make sure your brakes are in good order before you set off. The avalanche without anything in it is 6k. That much stuff takes a toll on your brakes. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Aug 21, 2015 |
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Aug 21, 2015 06:02
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some texas redneck posted:My stupid question: If it's an absolutely base avalanche, its possible he won't have one. Mine had the same options as his 04 and it was possible to have them with all variations of plain, oil cooler and trans cooler.
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Aug 21, 2015 08:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:It might not have an external one, but I've never seen a GM vehicle with an automatic but without a cooler in the radiator at the very least. Well congrats, you've seen one! While in reality, most dealerships were probably smart enough to order all of their avalanches with one, not all of them were that smart. I mean for example, mine was sold with a towing package, but no trailer hitch.
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Aug 21, 2015 15:19
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Godholio posted:I've known people to delete the factory cooler after installing a bigger aftermarket cooler. There also may not have been a cooler on a stripper 2wd non-towing version, if such a thing existed. There in fact was!
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Aug 21, 2015 23:28
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I don't know how being 4wd affects either, but I know that the 4.3 is a tank of a motor with regular maintenance. I know for a fact the one in my dad's 2000 S-10 that was used as a work truck (and thus heavily abused and driven hard) is up near 250k without anything too major exploding (ie, having a whole trans replaced or something similar), and that parts for it do tend to be cheap with repairs being fairly easy. I've never really heard anything good or bad about the 4.2, but know GM stuck it in tons of stuff in the early 2000's.
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Sep 6, 2015 01:10
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Vehicle is an 05 Chevy Avalanche with a 5.3L V8 LM7 motor and electric cooling fans. I just need someone to confirm or deny what I'm already thinking, If my engine cooling fans aren't spinning, the possible causes are dead cooling fan motors, bad wiring, blown relay/fuse and a faulty coolant temp switch. I have no way that I know of to test the cooling fan motors, but the wiring looks to be intact and everything functioned correctly before I removed the fan assembly and radiator to replace the radiator. Upon installation, the fans no longer spin in any way shape or form. However I don't hear any of the 3 relays attempting to engage, leading me to think it would be a bad relay or the coolant temp sensor got gummed up with crud from the failed radiator that was removed and its not reading properly. Am I correct?
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Dec 7, 2015 03:49
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Motronic posted:A multimeter and pinout for the cooling fans would tell you pretty quickly if you were getting power from the harness, and some jumpers and the battery already in the truck should power the fans just fine to test the motors. If you tell me where/how to test, I can borrow a multimeter from a friend and do it. It would be greatly appreciated.
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Dec 7, 2015 04:30
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So, couldn't get a reading at the harness, replaced the 5 pin relay, started the truck and the fans kicked on within about 2-3 minutes. Granted, about 5-10 minutes later it was running at 220-230, but I'm pretty sure that was a result of it not having enough water since I forgot to add more after it finished bleeding. Thanks for the help guys.  EDIT: Scratch that, I guess that was the fans running on high speed. I think I'm gonna be saying gently caress it and using it just to drive the short 2 mile trip to and from work until I can have a co-worker who spent 20 years as an aircraft electrician go at it with a multimeter. It can't overheat if it doesn't have enough time to warm up, right?
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 03:28
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spankmeister posted:Some brands are better than others. I usually just get Bosch as it's OEM but doesn't have the VAG logos and part numbers but is the exact same part otherwise. I don't know what BMW uses tbh. I'm fairly certain BMW uses MANN filters. You could probably also go with something decent but aftermarket like a wix (part no. 24518) which has activated carbon filters at a cheaper ($16 v $21) price and still has the exact same specs/filtering. And I think all 4 major chain parts stores anymore have a line that is pretty much OEM replacement parts with their branding. Ex: O'Reilly's has Import Direct and Advance Auto bought Carquest with sole intention of getting their access to the worldpac line. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Dec 11, 2015 |
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Dec 11, 2015 06:47
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blindjoe posted:I want to get a tonneau cover for my relative's Nissan Titan, and was wondering if there was a good brand to go with. Are you more concerned for security or keeping stuff dry?
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Dec 19, 2015 01:12
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Actually, oreilly's uses both east penn and johnson controls for their superstart batteries depending on battery availability and geographic location. An easy way to tell is the part number on the battery will have a j on the end if it was done by johnson.  But really, shop based off of warranty and service. If the dude behind the counter is a dick when you buy the battery, he'll be a bigger dick when its warranty time. Make sure they have a system that can pull up your warranty information without a receipt and make sure its full replacement, not a percent off a new battery. And don't loving buy one from rural king.
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Dec 28, 2015 07:35
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TildeATH posted:I hate carpeted floors in cars and I don't care what it will cost, I want to replace the carpeted floor in my brand new car with something that is not carpet (and it's a model that had no such options because apparently the only other people that feel the way I do drive Jeeps and that weird Honda SUV that I once snowboarded through in some old PS snowboard game). It doesn't matter if it's rigid plastic or brushed aluminum or sapphire or whatever. Who do I get to do this and what is it called and what's the best way to do this and not spend so much money that I feel stupid? http://www.weathertech.com/ They generally have an option for something that will match your interior, protect all the way up the sides of the footwell and will be a decent quality product. Fair warning, custom fit stuff is never cheap, weathertech is no exception. However you do get what you pay for. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 07:24
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EightBit posted:That's the cheapest one you can do yourself. Tons of prep work, so it will cost And if you ever have any kind of repair that requires getting to the wiring that is run underneath the carpet, you're boned.
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Jan 3, 2016 08:36
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to have a shop do it.
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Cage posted:I dont know what kind of car you drive, but you should buy some soft 8s for it. I've been looking for wheels for my truck that wouldn't look like poo poo and weren't 250+ each for a while. I think I just found 'em.
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Jan 7, 2016 20:44
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IOwnCalculus posted:This should be more than enough driving to get it warmed up fully, unless you have a stuck-open thermostat (in which case, you'd have gently caress-all for heat too). Some Googling makes it seem like the 41-921 was originally a double platinum but at some point GM started recommending iridium plugs instead. Either one would be fine in an application like that, especially since as far as I can tell you don't have a supercharger on that 3.8. Also, the iridium plugs that thing takes can probably be had for ~6 bucks through autolite or a regular iridium NGK plug. Iridium also supposedly has a hotter spark, but it should be gapped to provide the same heat as the old platinum plugs. So really, you're just buying the ability to put that next spark plug change off even longer.
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Jan 14, 2016 04:31
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The small independent mechanic will also use parts from a parts store. They may just not rape you on price quite as bad.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:11
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Oh, I know. And an independent shop is much more likely to beat the parts store up on price to get it down to the lowest price we can realistically sell it for, regardless of what line it is.
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Feb 4, 2016 04:34
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scuz posted:2005 Ford Focus ZX3 not blowing heat. It's gonna be like 10 below for the rest of the weekend and I don't want my friend to freeze. Is there a checklist of "heater don't work" things to go down? How would I be able to tell whether the heater core is good? Does that involve removing the whole thing and seeing whether water/coolant passes through it? You might also check if the blend door is accuated by vacuum or eleckitacity. If the forner, you might have a vacuum leak that would solve other problems.
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Feb 13, 2016 08:52
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3978855/overview/ This might be a somewhat cheaper option for the same style wheel. You still have to get them mounted and I would check the center bore size and backspacing, but it should mostly be correct outside of tire width. The thinest rim they had in that bolt pattern was 8".
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Feb 19, 2016 07:45
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mod sassinator posted:How horrible of an idea is to use stop leak on a radiator? Car ('05 GTO) has under 60k miles but the drat radiator has a leak hidden somewhere under all the other crap around it. It's an intermittent leak too--if I drive easy on it I don't notice anything, but after longer drives I'll see wetness on the bottom of the radiator and drips of coolant from underneath the car. I've spent weeks trying to track it down but just can't find it without ripping it all out (which I don't have the time to do right now). I've at least ruled out the simple stuff like hoses, coolant overflow tank, etc. These cars are known for having poo poo radiators and GM apparently shipped them from the factory with stop leak pellets in the coolant (gives you a sludgy brown junk on the coolant level dipstick, right from the factory). Is the main area of coolant leaking happening around the far side of the radiator? The sealant that joins the plastic to the aluminum core loves to give out on GM radiators along with the plastic cracking and failing. Sometimes causing it to shoot hot water and coolant 2-3 feet in front of the vehicle while traveling at highway speeds! If it is the plastic side tanks causing the leaks, Bars leak won't do poo poo to help it. If its a crack, some JBweld plastic weld MIGHT be able to patch it enough you can drive it enough to get whatever you need done on it. If its the seal, you're stuck swapping it out.
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Feb 24, 2016 11:01
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Immediately after turning on the lights or does it take a while to run down?
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Feb 27, 2016 07:57
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