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So got a recall notice in the mail for my sister's '99 Civic EX, apparently it's the airbag inflator being susceptible to water damage(Non Azide Driver Bag Inflaters). Now it's been a couple years since I've really paid attention to this stuff, but isn't that what made the Takata Airbags deadly? If so what the hell am I supposed to do considering the recall notice states they "don't have the parts currently available."? I'd rather my sister not drive around with a bomb in her steering wheel. Also if anyone has any idea how long it could take until they have the parts it would really be a huge help.
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Mar 14, 2020 20:25
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 03:30 |
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I just picked up a 2006 Mazda 3 with the 5 speed, everything seems to check out except 3rd gear grinds a little. All the other gears are fine and just going 2->4, while not ideal, seems to work just fine in the meantime. Worst-case scenario, if I need to rebuild the transmission, how much would I be looking at to have a shop do it? Just a ballpark, obviously every situation is different.
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Jul 24, 2020 19:12
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Anyone in NY state use the online DMV registration stuff? I just had to panic buy a car, was forced to register online, and now 3 days later I haven't heard a thing back from them except for a confirmation email. Any idea how long I can expect them to take? I can only catch rides to work for so long.
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Jul 28, 2020 17:21
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Outrail posted:Eh, coupla bumps of speed and it's 36 hours with zero cost for sleeping or eating. Might need new fingernails by the end of it though
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Aug 11, 2020 16:52
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My brother just took his car to a shop for a motor mount and a compressor issue, got it back today and it has a really prominent vaccum leak. Has anyone else had something like this happen before, is there a possibility it's intentional, and if the place doesn't track and fix it for free, what, if any recourse do we have? The car had absolutely no vaccum leaks before and there is no doubt in my mind something the shop did caused it.
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Aug 12, 2020 02:26
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kastein posted:Where is it leaking from? They might have left something disconnected by accident or cracked a part or a line while lifting the motor to replace the mount. If it's just a vacuum line it's usually pretty cheap and easy to fix such mistakes at least. Not sure where it's coming from at this point, but apparently a cold start without turning the A/C on and the vacuum leak is gone, so I'd imagine it's something to do with the A/C.
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Aug 12, 2020 18:27
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STR posted:Wait, what kind of car is this? It's actually, funny enough also a Matrix, 2004 XR with a 5 speed. They also did some sort of wok on the A/C, and from a cold start with never having turned the A/C on, it runs fine. It's not throwing a code but I think it's a vaccuum leak, not just because it's idling high but because it feels really down on power wt highway speeds, and you can hear it rise and fall with the RPMs.
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Aug 12, 2020 22:46
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I'm no expert but burning oil could very well clog/gently caress up your catalytic converter, which is what the code sounds like to me. I can't say what would/wouldn't be a good idea to fix but you probably need a new cat, unless you can get one of those cheap temporary "fixes" to work long enough to get your registration done.
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Aug 27, 2020 03:43
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The Silver Snail posted:I recently purchased a 2002 Subaru Forester for a fair price, and have put some additional money into getting it safe to drive, but I've been noticing over the months that I've been feeling somewhat ill, and it seems to correlate to periods of consecutive weeks when I drive the vehicle. Symptoms are head focused, feeling like general bleariness, kind of what I remember a very mild hangover might feel like. I've been taking a break from driving it, but at it's worst point, I was starting to get the onsets of a migraine that wasn't going away with sleep. I've recovered from this since then.
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Aug 31, 2020 07:04
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2006 Mazda 3, bought it about 2 months ago and haven't had any issues. Driving to school this morning, realized my stereo cut out. Further investigation showed it cut out whenever I put my blinker on. By the time I got to my school, my car had stalled out when I out my hazards on at a stop (started right back up, though I was rolling a bit, not sure if that helped), power steering cut out whenever I had my blinker or brakes on, and the rpms would surge back when I put my blinker on (A/C and stereo were off at this point, I realized it was some type of electrical issue). When my car was parked, A/C on full blast, hazards on, brakes applied, stereo on high everything seemed to work fine. Obviously I'm going to to get my alternator/battery checked ASAP, but if they both check out, do I have any recourse? There's a quite shady aftermarket head unit and stereo in this, which I suspect would be the source of any wiring issues. I really like this car and I would hate to have to get rid of it because someone decided to wire it like an MC Escher painting. If the wiring of the stereo was messed up, could correctly installing a new head unit alleviate the issue?
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Sep 1, 2020 15:18
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Charles posted:I'd guess a ground connection somewhere has come undone. ****EDIT****: Drive to autozone was fine, had all the electrical components on I could think of for the ride and had no problems. Guy at autozone couldn't get the tester to work, it kept crackling and then shutting off. At this point I'll just hope nothing else goes wrong until I can get it into a shop. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Sep 1, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 18:32
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https://www.google.com/amp/s/theconversation.com/amp/ive-always-wondered-are-suvs-and-4wds-safer-than-other-cars-98559 Small CUVs have been demonstrated to actually be less safe in accidents than small cars, and it's compounded by people driving more aggresively in them (probably in large part due to the fact they think they're safe.) For larger SUVs it's a different story, but more weight doesn't really mean it's more safe. Remember KE=(1/2)mv^2. Any increase in weight leads to a proportional increase in energy at any given speed.
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Sep 1, 2020 23:13
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Geoj posted:If you haven't taken it to a shop yet, might be worth checking the negative battery terminal for corrosion. My wife had a similar vintage Mazda 6 that had a batshit electrical problem - turned on the rear defroster and pretty much every light on the dash lit up and the gauge needles looked like they were having a seizure, plus the wipers started running and the engine cut out - that was resolved by cleaning the battery terminals and applying dielectric grease. That's a good idea, I was actually buying a terminal scraper and some dielectric grease for my brothers car, so I'll do that ASAP. Positive is clean as a whistle, but the negative is kind of grody. Hopefully that's where the problem came from.
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Sep 3, 2020 03:08
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What is the point of an overdrive off switch?
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Sep 6, 2020 15:59
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To the Honda Pilot guy, from the sounds of it, you probably have (at least 1 motor mount) going bad, it would help explain the engine rocking and weird steering problems. As for the brakes, I'm not sure, if it just feels like pulsing it could be warped rotors, otherwise could be a wide variety of issues including pretty much everything from the master cylinder to the caliper. For a bit of hope, air in the lines or master can do weird and unpredictable stuff, did your mechanic do any brake work around the time this problem arose? They could have not bled them properly. As for the parking brake, if it's heating and locking up while driving, that means it's engaged, whether the lever in the car is or not. It's a fairly common problem.(especially in automatics when they're used very infrequently) and is usually just a messed up cable. Get it rectified ASAP, as it is a huge strain on your powertrain, and can lead to dangerous heat buildup on your rear brakes. If I were you, I'd follow Motronic's suggestion, finding a decent mechanic is a pain but well worth it, and if yours is flummoxed by vaccuum leaks then that's a bad sign. I'm not sure about the specific reliability of an 04 Pilot, but Hondas are generally well built. A BMW X5 will most certainly not be a reliable car, so be aware getting another car will not solve all your problems. That being said, some of the stuff you're describing is potentially very dangerous (particularly the brakes) and you should absolutely do something about it as soon as possible, whether that be getting a new car or finding someone good to really diagnose the issues you're having with the Pilot. Good luck at any rate DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Sep 10, 2020 |
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Sep 10, 2020 00:01
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Why is Navel pastrami, obviously the more delicious and correct variety, so much cheaper than the other(?) Pastrami? At my grocery store it's literally less than half the price. Edit: lol very much the wrong thread. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 3, 2020 |
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Oct 3, 2020 19:25
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Absolutely. Subaru's boxer engines sound like turds, and even worse with the turbo. They should have that hilarious fake engine noise that the i8 has.
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Oct 24, 2020 18:25
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I'm really going to live up to the "Stupid" part of this threads name, but is it possible/easy to convert an electric throttle cable back to a real one? I have a 2006 Mazda 3 that appears to have drive by wire (it says it in some of the dealership materials) and it's honestly one of the biggest things I hate about the car. If it was an option for this car, would that mean it's relatively simple to switch to a regular throttle cable, or would I have to mess with stuff above my pay grade to get it to work (like ECU stuff)?
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Nov 10, 2020 01:10
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My brother has a 2004 Toyota Matrix, noticed a horrible mildewy smell in the car and the rear, passenger side floormat is sopping wet. It's been like this for a couple of weeks at the minimum and doesnt seem to be connected to any rainfall. He worried it was a heater core but there's no HVAC at all in the back and his front floormat is dry as a bone (plus my Jeep experience has me pretty convinced the liquid soaking his floormat isn't coolant). Preliminary googling suggests it's something in the HVAC system clogging up, can anyone point me more in a better direction?
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Nov 28, 2020 19:09
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Motronic posted:Does it have a sunroof? Has the AC been running (either because it's hot out or because the defroster has been on)? No sunroof, A/C use has been minimal because it's been pretty cold here recently.
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Nov 28, 2020 20:41
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Any experience with Douglas All-Season tires? My rears are shot and they are very affordable/ don't need to be shipped, but if they're dangerous then I don't want to mess with them. I live on Long Island, in the Northeast so nothing crazy weather wise but definitley 4 distinct seasons and a couple of snow storms every year. Car is an 06 Mazda 3, so I'm not going offroad or very fast on the road in inclement weather anyway. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jan 13, 2021 |
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Jan 13, 2021 21:17
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skipdogg posted:They're fine. Goodyear makes them as sort of a house brand for Walmart. They're not going to be fantastic high end tires, but they're not going to kill you. They might not last as long as other tires, but they're like 50 bucks so set expectations accordingly. That's perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the quick reply.
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Jan 13, 2021 23:04
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How important is the plastic splash cover underneath the front end? The one on my car (06 Mazda 3 4-Door) seemingly got ripped off by the previous owner, and is being held on with zip ties. Can I just get rid of it entirely?
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Jan 14, 2021 16:52
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I have a car that has been sitting for a while (~6 months) , that I plan on fixing up and selling. The inspection ran out in September, is it possible/legal in NYS to insure a car for a short period of time (say a week) just to legally get it inspected, and then cancel it? Not sure it'd be worth it to keep paying insurance while I'm trying to sell the car but I would very much like to get a fresh inspection sticker on there.
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Jan 23, 2021 01:48
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Pedal feeling like mush and being really unresponsive sounds like air in the lines to me, I got that once by being a dummy and taking out the banjo bolt to make space, then being unable to take off my (coincidentally) cross-threaded calipers. Bleed the lines and see how they are after that.
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Feb 5, 2021 02:25
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https://youtu.be/mme3_C1wlKM My 2006 Mazda 3 has been making this ticking noise when I start it up, otherwise acting completely normal, no change in power, RPM, no engine codes, etc. Does this sound like anything to anyone? The motor mounts don't seem to have ever been changed, could it be from shot motor mounts?
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Mar 1, 2021 02:43
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Hey guys, thanks for all the help. That video was taken during the first startup after an oil change, as the engine was heating up, so the oil was definitely very cold, but not low. I definitely heard the noise for a bit before then though. My mechanic is booked until Saturday, and I'm not savvy enough to go ripping out all the accessories on my own. Is driving on ticking lifters for a week likely to cause any long-term damage? And to answer a previous question about the belts, I'm 90% sure that this car has a timing chain (because it's a VVT?) and not a belt, while one of the serpentine or accesory belts were definitely making some noise before and almost definitely need to be replaced. I'll probably take another video tomorrow too after a drive to see how it sounds warmed up and with the oil circuated. Once again thanks for the help!
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Mar 1, 2021 08:01
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Could it be the engine getting heat soaked/vapor locked? I know some of the 4.0l Cherokee's had that problem, don't know if 4 cyl Rangers do.
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Mar 1, 2021 16:47
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Update on the Mazda, took another video of it on a cold start, the clicking seemed to go away https://youtu.be/vRCbMbckzI8 But then when I started it up after when it was all warmed it was definitely back again https://youtu.be/MVu0iEDfK_M I know it's a bit subjective, but if this is an issue with the lifters, would it be worth getting it fixed or just driving the car into the ground? I spent $2k on it last summer, and though I like it a lot I definitely don't want to get caught in the used car money pit. Haven't had any other issues with it yet (aside from its battery dying on me while I was driving once a while ago) but I haven't really owned the car very long, there's definitely something up with the suspension, and the (thankfully manual) transmission feels close to needing a rebuild.
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Mar 2, 2021 01:21
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I'm no expert but in reply to that guy asking ahout Wenkels as generators, I've read that a lot of their efficiency issues are solved by running them at a fixed RPM, and Mazda just recently patented a hybrid system using a Wankel engine. So maybe it could work?
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Mar 7, 2021 05:04
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I've got the Mazda 3 from a couple of pages ago, took it to my mechanic and he said it definitely sounded like my lifters. He said it was a total pain in the rear end to change them and that the amount of time it would take for him (1 man shop, single space garage) to do it he'd end up having to charge ~$1000, which is probably better saved up for a clutch down the line. Is there a consensus on running seafoam in the oil to quiet down loud lifters? I'm seeing people reccomend that in other places but I'm pretty skeptical of those quick fixes and don't want to cause any damage.
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Mar 18, 2021 23:51
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Is it normal for a car to grind a little bit going into reverse? I thought my clutch was going but my brother says it's normal. I know reverse doesn't have a synchro but that shouldn't matter if you're at a stop, no?
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Mar 24, 2021 17:40
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drat didn't expect such a response! I'll stop worrying about it but thanks for all the feedback. I'll definitely put it in first before putting it into reverse, especially if a fellow Mazda 3 owner recommends it.
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Mar 24, 2021 22:36
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In unrelated news, I opened up my old WJ for the first time in months (radiator went, got a new car so hasn't been a priority) and when I got inside, I was blasted with the nauseating, nostalgic smell of old gear oil. I'm going to have to get rid of that hunk of junk, but god drat did that car grow on me if it turned gear oil smell into something I didn't know I missed. I'm not crying, it's just raining out. (Please don't ask why it smells like gear oil inside. It's a long story involving an axle, a Ford Explorer missing an axle, and an older brother.)
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Mar 25, 2021 00:10
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I have had several parts of my Jeep exhaust literally falling off and smacking into the side of my car multiple times. Both times, I took the car to different "spanish smart"* exhaust shops, and I got everything welded back together. I paid $70 in cash, gave a $20 to the kid who did all the welding, and went on my way as they stopped to get lunch. *Quote from my Salvadorean coworker who recommended me the shop after describing how they fixed his cat by welding in a generic one for $300 instead of getting an OEM one that would be $1000+. If you're on Long Island by some small chance I could send you thr shop I used.
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Apr 3, 2021 05:30
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I had a car (unplanned) sit for about 9 months. Aside from changing the oil (already changing the coolant since it's a radiator that kept it from moving for so long) what else should i take check/replace? Also, rotors were in good shape prior to parking it, will I be alright just braking the rust off them, or should I get the rotors resurfaced?
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Apr 6, 2021 05:30
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https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-ton-scissor-jack-66907.html would something like this work as a replacement for an emergency jack? As with the guy above, just to change tires, not to actually work on the car. I don't use Amazon and would rather not deal with shipping.
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Apr 10, 2021 18:20
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STR posted:That's exactly what most cars come with from the factory. I am on Long Island (Suffolk), if someone knows of a pick and pull junkyard that's not more than an hour away I'd be super grateful
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Apr 11, 2021 03:19
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Isn't neodymium also considered a "Rare Earth metal" but is actually relatively common? Also any tips for a first time car seller?
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Apr 14, 2021 02:36
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 03:30 |
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While high milage can be overrated in terms of its effect on a vehicles value, I wouldn't buy anything with over 300k on the clock even if it appeared to be in good shape. The fact there are apparently multiple coolant leaks makes it even more of a no-go. And frankly $2300 can buy a pretty decent used car, I would seriously reconsider the intentions of a "friend" who would attempt to extort $2300 out of you for a literal junker. They would be lucky to get $400 for that thing as you describe it.
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Apr 14, 2021 22:34
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