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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Many years ago my Dad bought a 1956 Thunderbird in need of a complete restoration. Now that he's retired, he's got the time to really get cracking. Some stuff has been done already - motor's built, chassis is stripped and painted, and 99% of the parts he needs are ready to go. Right now he's ready to start on getting to the "rolling chassis" point. What he's looking for is a guide on where everything bolts onto the naked frame - basically just a diagram of what holes mount what items, e.g. suspension, engine, exhaust, fuel/brake lines, electrical etc. He's very mechanically savvy (frame-off restored a 1940 Packard when he was younger), and has a lot of individual resources to draw on, so he just needs a basic guide.

Any clue where such a PDF or what-have-you might exist?

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

2014 Ford Transit Connect - 2.5L engine with (I think based on Wikipedia) the 6F-35 six speed auto trans. Transmission behavior question; symptoms are:

- Hard 2-3 shift. Feels like it "hangs" at the top of 2nd and drops into 3rd with a lurch. Happens at low, medium, and high throttle. Seems like low and high throttle are the smoothest, with medium throttle shifts the most harsh.
- "Dip" in RPM going through 3rd at low/medium throttle. Happens around 3k RPM at medium throttle. Watching the tach you can see the rpm increasing until just past 3k where it dips a couple hundred rpm and then rises again. Almost like if you'd slipped the clutch in a manual trans a bit. Doesn't happen at full throttle.
- Lag in selecting reverse. On cold startup if you drop it into reverse right away and let off the brake nothing happens and then it bangs into reverse. Happens when warm too, just not as severe.
- Will bang a double-gear downshift on the highway. If you're doing ~70mph and have cruise control engaged, when you start to climb an incline steep enough to cause a 2 or 3 gear downshift it BANGS into the gear. Single gear downshifts seem smooth enough.

I've read online that there are just some "issues" with the 6F-35 overall, but wondering if this behavior seems "normal" enough or if there's something I should be investigating with a service shop. For what it's worth we have had a trans fluid change done but it didn't change any behavior. Some of the symptoms feel like things you'd associate with low trans fluid, but I have to believe it was filled properly. Oh and there's no dipstick to check...

Thanks!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Krakkles posted:

My first thought was low fluid.

It looks like checking and adding is an enormous pain in the rear end, so probably something worth having a shop do. https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/3113-2014-transmission-fluid-level-checkrefill/

Even given that it had these symptoms before and after a trans drain/fill from the dealer?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Krakkles posted:

I'm going to say I don't think that rules it out, but give the hivemind a minute. There's probably someone who knows more about your specific vehicle.

(I don't think it rules it out because other people's work on a car is frequently questionable and it's a pain in the rear end looking procedure, which multiplies the likelyhood someone didn't do it right.)

Oh absolutely, not ruling it out just wanted to make sure I was being clear re: symptoms before/after trans drain and fill.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

DTaeKim posted:

I own a 2018 Honda Odyssey and there is a plastic piece attached to the fuel door that keeps it shut. A part of this plastic part snapped off so the fuel door no longer closes. I went to my Honda dealer and he told me he is unable to purchase that plastic part unless he orders the ENTIRE fuel door assembly, which would cost me $200. I can't seem to find this piecet otherwise. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Is it one of the parts shown in the diagram here?

https://www.hondapartsonline.net/oem-parts/honda-actuator-assembly-fuel-lid-74700thra01

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Then I believe this is what you need - https://www.hondapartsonline.net/oem-parts/honda-striker-fuel-filler-lid-74481thra02?c=bT0xJmw9MSZuPVJlY29tbWVuZGVkIFByb2R1Y3Rz

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

amenenema posted:

2014 Ford Transit Connect - 2.5L engine with (I think based on Wikipedia) the 6F-35 six speed auto trans. Transmission behavior question; symptoms are:

- Hard 2-3 shift. Feels like it "hangs" at the top of 2nd and drops into 3rd with a lurch. Happens at low, medium, and high throttle. Seems like low and high throttle are the smoothest, with medium throttle shifts the most harsh.
- "Dip" in RPM going through 3rd at low/medium throttle. Happens around 3k RPM at medium throttle. Watching the tach you can see the rpm increasing until just past 3k where it dips a couple hundred rpm and then rises again. Almost like if you'd slipped the clutch in a manual trans a bit. Doesn't happen at full throttle.
- Lag in selecting reverse. On cold startup if you drop it into reverse right away and let off the brake nothing happens and then it bangs into reverse. Happens when warm too, just not as severe.
- Will bang a double-gear downshift on the highway. If you're doing ~70mph and have cruise control engaged, when you start to climb an incline steep enough to cause a 2 or 3 gear downshift it BANGS into the gear. Single gear downshifts seem smooth enough.

I've read online that there are just some "issues" with the 6F-35 overall, but wondering if this behavior seems "normal" enough or if there's something I should be investigating with a service shop. For what it's worth we have had a trans fluid change done but it didn't change any behavior. Some of the symptoms feel like things you'd associate with low trans fluid, but I have to believe it was filled properly. Oh and there's no dipstick to check...

Thanks!

Got buried under LightChatTM, just wondering if anyone else had thoughts. I did find this - https://www.reddit.com/r/fordfusion/comments/gt8u4u/for_those_of_you_suffering_from_the_23_hard_shift/ ???

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Any recommendations for cheap brake pads and rotors? Going on a 2014 Ford Transit Connect for what it's worth.

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

VelociBacon posted:

I'll probably just find which bolt size/pitch fits the hole in the rotor center area and just do that

On a 2004 WRX the correct bolt can be found holding a small bracket (brake line maybe?) on the inner fender-well. If you are sitting on the ground, facing the wheel assembly it's the first bolt you see if you look up slightly. If whomever engineered your car had a kind heart, perhaps they did something similar??

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