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Motronic posted:Why was they wood between the rotor and the hammer? Stop doing that and try again. I didn't want to put a dent in the rotor, I wasn't at home and didn't have my deadblow or anything so it was just a framing hammer. Ideally with a sledge or something with a lot more surface area yeah I wouldn't use a wood intermediary. I'll probably just find which bolt size/pitch fits the hole in the rotor center area and just do that. It's funny, I have a memory of using a bolt like that on an early 240sx (my first car) but completely forgot about it until it was mentioned in this thread.
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Feb 21, 2023 00:09
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VelociBacon posted:I didn't want to put a dent in the rotor Again why? It doesn't matter. One of the big things between home gamers just starting out and experienced people/pros is knowing what you can destroy/beat on. Air hammers, sledge hammers, sawzalls and especially an OA torch are how you get poo poo done NOW where there's rust.
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Feb 21, 2023 00:14
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General rule is if a part is being replaced you're OK with damaging the old one with removal methods. As mentioned, Hammer, Torch, Grinder, Sawzall, etc are fair game. You're replacing wheel bearings as well so you can get some heat into the rotor hats to help break them loose. Upon reassembly, apply a light coat of fluid film or grease, or heck WD-40 if you have nothing else between steel mating surfaces like this where things fought you on the way out. Helps reduce future headaches.
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Feb 21, 2023 01:39
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VelociBacon posted:framing hammer This right here is your problem, not to mention using wood took away some energy. Get you a mini sledge and it'll pop right off. A normal hammer just doesn't have nearly enough weight behind it. Like others have said, pound on the rotor hat and also the edge of the rotor. If it's well and truly stuck after that, I've never had this method fail me https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs
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Feb 21, 2023 01:48
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opengl posted:
Interesting technique in that video.
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Feb 21, 2023 01:55
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VelociBacon posted:I'll probably just find which bolt size/pitch fits the hole in the rotor center area and just do that On a 2004 WRX the correct bolt can be found holding a small bracket (brake line maybe?) on the inner fender-well. If you are sitting on the ground, facing the wheel assembly it's the first bolt you see if you look up slightly. If whomever engineered your car had a kind heart, perhaps they did something similar??
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Feb 21, 2023 02:55
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Update: I just left it sitting for 6 months because the dealership shop didn't have any openings and I had too much work to spend time shopping around for a decent indie shop, and after replacing the battery (it didn't survive the Texas cold snap last month) and the negative terminal that broke when I tried to unscrew it (was steel, rusted through, replaced it with the lead terminal from the grocery store automotive section), it runs mostly* fine, all codes cleared, drove it all over town today getting it inspected and registered and other errands with no issues. Is it possible that the bad ground messing with the electronics screwed up the fuel map causing the two dead holes, and leaving it with a dead battery reset everything?  *Feels like it still has a bit of a vacuum leak (idle varies by ~200rpm, chugs a little on hard acceleration, but all six are firing, gonna borrow Lilbro's diesel-starting spray to try to track it down, unless there's something better to spray all over the engine bay to find the leak.) Is Seafoam into the intake worth doing, or is it as useless as the fuel additives? Also that engine has some kind of fancy automatic valve adjustment system, so half the time it sounds like it has a dead hydraulic lifter until it warms up and tunes itself, that's mildly annoying. Chillbro Baggins posted:2004 Kia Amanti, 3.5L Sigma V6, runs like poo poo. Missing on a couple cylinders, bogs on any but the slightest bit of throttle, if I eeeeeaaaaaase into it and at cruise speed it runs fine. Recently had all the plugs/coils replaced by the dealership, along with a top-end refresh (new valve cover and head gaskets, cleaned out all the gunk in the heads and piston faces, and a 2-month wait to find a new crank sensor -- apparently Kia USA's warehouse didn't have any in stock, they eventually searched all the dealership inventory and found the only one in North America...
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Feb 21, 2023 03:05
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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STR posted:PoC had a nearly identical issue on a Dodge Intrepid after replacing the mirror switch. What a fuckin' lovely circuit lmao. The CR-V backfeed circuit wasn't quite that astounding as Honda seems to have higher standards for circuitry. That is nearly precisely what I did over a couple weeks worth of dealing with the issue (I wasn't using the car all that much at the time as I didn't have any down routes and the Fit or the SV650 were my dailies). I printed out all the wiring diagrams for anything that had a connection to the the PGM-FI box where the relay was hanging due to the backfeed. I laminated them and carried them around in a folder with dry-erase markers and would trace them when I had a spare moment or two and felt like some skull sweat. I subsequently determined that it was one of like three connectors; one near the driver's side firewall, and two under the intake manifold. I got a moment to test my hypotheses and went out to the car to reproduce the issue. The firewall connector broke the backfeed circuit which allowed the relay to close, but cleaning the connector and wiggling the harness near it did not resolve the overall issue. After cycling the ignition again, I started fondling the harnesses under the intake manifold when it suddenly shut off. I checked for a fix and the problem was resolved. I'm pretty sure it was the harness with the O2 sensor on it which had the potential to backfeed. This was back in 2020 and I haven't had the issue recur since. I can only think that I bumped something during an oil change (the filter is down there on the driver's side of the block). I'm not fuckin' around with removing the intake manifold and all that poo poo unless I end up doing a head-off job on the car, at which point I will go over every connector with electronics cleaner and dielectric grease and maybe slice open some harnesses to check for rubbing wear. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Feb 21, 2023 |
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Feb 21, 2023 13:49
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Hadlock posted:Spliced the line and put a meter in there. Possible fuel delivery problem, car feeling low on power. Cross-postin' Is 2psi acceptable? Most people discussing mechanical fuel pumps are talking about for a 5.7L and my engine is only 1.9L not sure if that matters The only source I can find that says 2psi is ok is this article from hagerty: https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/troubleshooting-a-spring-no-start-on-a-car-with-a-mechanical-fuel-pump/
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Feb 21, 2023 21:22
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I want to say that's on the low side - I've always seen 4-8 PSI recommended. But if it has Solex carbs, those seems to be happy around 2 PSI.
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Feb 22, 2023 03:20
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Yeah it's a solex carb. Thanks. I've reached out to a specialist forum they might be able to give some guidance. A new fuel pump is only $80 but there's a $80 shipping fee coming from Europe so trying to avoid that
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Feb 22, 2023 03:28
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Yeah closing the loop on this that carb wants between 1.2 and 2.1 psi
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Feb 22, 2023 17:10
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Finally getting around to getting work done on our two cars after years of deferred maintenance when we were dead broke. The local mechanic I like retired, so I'm trying to find a new one. Tried a few spots, not too happy with either of them but my expectations could be wrong . I live in Chicagoland. Cars 1999 Toyota Camry, 110k miles, no rust, largely driven in the south. Barely driven last three years (as in, maybe once a year after a jump start, now using it once a week). Mechanic A charged me $600 to put in a new battery, change spark plugs, and mystery other minor work. No paperwork, no receipt, cash only (this was the place the guy I liked used to own and I didn't know hed sold until I went to pay, won't be going back) Needs: has had ABS light on forever, just had check engine light come on several minutes after I passed inspection. Been running premium gas and put in some fuel stabilizer stuff to hopefully get the gunk out. Also has a cracked air thing they told me was needed to be fixed soon. Also has a dented passenger door and missing hubcap, don't really care. Am noticing some amount of shudder when driving, worried it's tie rod. 2007 Ford fusion V6, 60k miles, some rust on body. had a horrible shake last week, spent $1k on 4 replacement tires + new tie rods + alignment. Mechanic pointed out that one front wheel is several inches closer to the back of the wheel well than the other, indicating undisclosed front impact (this was a hand-me-down from a now dead grandma). Further repairs: got quoted $800 to replace front hub bearing that is quite noisy. Has a small shudder at 20mph that seems transmission related. Googling around it seems like both places ripped me off. Should I just be going in to a meineke or some poo poo? The other place near me that's not a chain is known for doing work on old euro cars and being a bit pricey. mastershakeman fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Feb 22, 2023 |
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Feb 22, 2023 17:51
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Like every other business in the last few years, costs have gone way up and paying a professional to work on your car is expensive. Labor rates around me are almost all over 100 dollars an hour. Throw in parts markup, shop supplies, tax, and even a minor repair can be 250 dollars or more. There's not really a ton you can do about it unless you learn to work on your own car. I do not like working on my own cars, but the savings is significant, so I do whatever I'm comfortable doing. The rest of it I get done at the dealer. I pay a premium to have the dealer do the work, but they follow book hours, use Ford OEM parts, and I like to pretend a good relationship with my dealer will help if there is ever a problem. I follow this guy on YouTube as I own Ford's and he makes great videos about fixing them, and I would not hesitate to take any of my cars to him. He's in the Chicago area. http://bsgautomotive.com/
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Feb 22, 2023 18:09
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I suppose my question boils down to: how can I tell if I'm getting ripped off , without going to 20 different places one repair at a time
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Feb 22, 2023 18:13
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buy a $20 HF kit and fix it yourself. That way only you can rip yourself off. Yelp reviews etc? word of mouth? Get poo poo in writing? Check the work after its done?
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Feb 22, 2023 18:17
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cursedshitbox posted:buy a $20 HF kit and fix it yourself. That way only you can rip yourself off. Yeah, I'd been using yelp/nextdoor and so far I was real pleased with the second mechanic. My spouse is just super into we need to get more quotes and prices! For the hub bearing, which sounds bad enough to me that I don't want to dick around with getting it worked on. Sadly that bsg automotive guy is over an hour away with no traffic. Sadly, I've never worked on a car in my life in any real sense and probably should learn to now that I have a driveway, especially now that YouTube exists. mastershakeman fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Feb 22, 2023 |
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Feb 22, 2023 18:23
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mastershakeman posted:1999 Toyota Camry, 110k miles, no rust, largely driven in the south. Barely driven last three years (as in, maybe once a year after a jump start, now using it once a week). Mechanic A charged me $600 to put in a new battery, change spark plugs, and mystery other minor work. No paperwork, no receipt, cash only (this was the place the guy I liked used to own and I didn't know hed sold until I went to pay, won't be going back) I have Torque on my Android phone and a cheap ELM327 Bluetooth ALDL puck I grabbed on eBay many years ago for $10 (I'm sure they're more now). Works great to read and clear codes. A handy tool so you know what you're dealing with as far as CEL causes. Alternatively, I think most of the big box parts stores like Advanced Auto will read codes free. mastershakeman posted:Yeah, I'd been using yelp/nextdoor and so far I was real pleased with the second mechanic. My spouse is just super into we need to get more quotes and prices! For the hub bearing, which sounds bad enough to me that I don't want to dick around with getting it worked on. Having a mentor can really help, even with YouTube. I had a buddy help me get into it in the early 90s. I helped him drywall a basement and he coached me on car mods/repairs. By the end of the decade I was already swapping motors, doing head/cam swaps, etc. Maybe you can find a local goon or buddy that could do the same for you.
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Feb 22, 2023 19:04
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mastershakeman posted:Yeah, I'd been using yelp/nextdoor and so far I was real pleased with the second mechanic. My spouse is just super into we need to get more quotes and prices! For the hub bearing, which sounds bad enough to me that I don't want to dick around with getting it worked on. If you know exactly what you need done you can call around and get quotes, but most shops worth their salt are not going to diagnose your car for a free estimate. They will charge you a diagnostic fee and if you chose to have them fix it they will subtract it from the final bill. Otherwise you're stuck with the fee. Price is secondary to quality of work and transparency. You might get a cheaper price but then you might get a hack working on your car too, focus on shops that are rated highly for quality work not price.
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Feb 23, 2023 00:03
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Keep in mind that a lot of times people are frustrated that it is expensive to rehabilitate or resurrect a nearly completely depreciated and clapped out vehicle. It may be significantly more expensive than the vehicles are worth to fix the issues you are describing. However, it’s a frustrating gap area when repairs are more expensive than value of the vehicle, but less expensive than a new-to-you car.
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Feb 23, 2023 00:14
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opengl posted:This right here is your problem, not to mention using wood took away some energy. Get you a mini sledge and it'll pop right off. A normal hammer just doesn't have nearly enough weight behind it. I have had that method fail once...mainly because the bracket holes didn't line up nice. Out came the sawzall...
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Feb 23, 2023 01:15
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C-Bangin' it 
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My 2003 Mazda Protege5 has had an exhaust leak. The guy at the smog check place (california) could smell it and helpfully didn't charge me or perform the check. I removed the heat shield and found one bolt just hanging out and the one above it loose:  Tightening them did not remove the exhaust smell so I moved to the next step, gaskets. I removed the exhaust header completely, exposing both the header gasket and the gasket that sits between the header and the "WU-TWC" which is apparently a three-way catalytic converter. I found evidence of exhaust blowing out from one cylinder where it met the header, the same one with the loose bolts:  And also found that the WU-TWC gasket was cracked in half through two sheets of steel   and had left a mark or stain on the header surface:  top left and bottom right are where the cracks were, I don't know what the other discolorations mean I have fresh gaskets in hand. My question now is: having cleaned up the surfaces with carb cleaner & nylon & brass brushes (this is an aluminum head), do I need to do anything else? The manual doesn't specifically say to replace the bolts, it just gives torque specs. Is there a service I should do while the header is off? The car has like 150k on it if that matters. Should I replace the oxygen sensors? Clean them maybe? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Feb 23, 2023 |
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Feb 23, 2023 01:21
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happyscrappyheropup posted:I have Torque on my Android phone and a cheap ELM327 Bluetooth ALDL puck I grabbed on eBay many years ago for $10 (I'm sure they're more now). They're actually under 3 bucks with free shipping now. They're hugely handy, and at current prices it pays to just keep one in each vehicle. I mean poo poo, parts stores will scan your codes for free, but 1 or 2 round trips might cost you more than $3 in gas. I've even convinced family members who wouldn't know a wrench from a hole in the ground to buy one. That way if they get a check engine light, they can pull the code (and call me to ask what it means) before panicking. I've heard people say they won't communicate with certain modules. That may be true with newer stuff, but with the right software I've pulled ABS and airbag codes on mid-2000s vehicles with no problems.
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Feb 23, 2023 01:27
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Leperflesh posted:My 2003 Mazda Protege5 has had an exhaust leak. The guy at the smog check place (california) could smell it and helpfully didn't charge me or perform the check. Iirc from my days on the Mazda forums, they all seemed to need oxygen sensors replaced around 180,000. I must admit I don't recall if that was Miles or km, but in my case it was km. Is the check engine light on? If it's not, then I wouldn't bother tbh. Keep them till they die and just replace the gaskets.
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Feb 23, 2023 01:34
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Applebees Appetizer posted:If you know exactly what you need done you can call around and get quotes, but most shops worth their salt are not going to diagnose your car for a free estimate. They will charge you a diagnostic fee and if you chose to have them fix it they will subtract it from the final bill. Otherwise you're stuck with the fee. This is dead on. First shop you'll have to eat the diagnostic or have the work done. Ask for an itemized estimate. This will break down the parts and labor. If they won't, leave and don't go back. Then post your symptoms and that estimate here while you call another couple shops. Say shop 1 claims the shudder mean you need a wheel bearing. Call shop 2 and ask how much to install a wheel bearing on your specific car. It's an easy check to make sure one isn't wildly expensive. 750/850/1000 ok pick a shop. If it's 750/850/2500 you'll know ones being stupid about it. Prices are made up nonsense in this example.
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Feb 23, 2023 01:45
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wesleywillis posted:Iirc from my days on the Mazda forums, they all seemed to need oxygen sensors replaced around 180,000. No check engine light. Alright I'll just leave in the old ones. Thanks! e. since it was running poorly with an exhaust leak above the O2 sensors, most likely the computer was compensating for higher than normal O2 readings by adding fuel to run a richer mix. Maybe. Or just stumbling due to drops in backpressure at the exhaust valves or something. 
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Feb 23, 2023 01:58
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Leperflesh posted:No check engine light. Alright I'll just leave in the old ones. Thanks! Uuuuuuhhhhh. Sure, maybe. Fix this obvious problem and then go from there. If that corrects whatever other problems, then hell yeah, you're done. Otherwise further investigation is needed.
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Feb 23, 2023 02:51
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Does this look OK? This is the upper sensor ("Front") that screws directly into the manifold, I have not removed the lower ("Rear") sensor:
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Feb 23, 2023 03:12
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mastershakeman posted:2007 Ford fusion V6, 60k miles, some rust on body. Um. I gather the noisy hub is on the same side that got pranged when Grandma ran over a parking-lot stop at 30-MPH? I would sort that first part out before spending another dime on anything else. Lower control arm is bent. Strut may be bent. Frame may be bent. There's no way in hell that the front end could possibly be brought into alignment spec. Leperflesh posted:Does this look OK? This is the upper sensor ("Front") that screws directly into the manifold, I have not removed the lower ("Rear") sensor: Looks great, actually. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Feb 23, 2023 |
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Feb 23, 2023 03:45
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The few O2 sensors that I've seen over the years looked pretty much like that. Occasionally the soot on them was a little bit blacker, but I don't think theres a way to tell if an o2 sensor is good or bad by visual inspection alone unless there are obvious signs of physical damage, or if those little holes were completely clogged with crud or something. It *looks* good, but could still be bad. But again, if the check engine light isn't on, then I would just put some anti-seize on the the threads and put it back on.
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Feb 23, 2023 03:51
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I work on these parts in my job. It looks fine. Obvious signs of damage include bent body, rattling if you shake it (you can sometimes hear broken ceramic rattling around inside), clogged or holed filter, or damage to the lead wires. Or sometimes it looks like something took a hammer to the protection tube. Interesting returns, those. Anyway, yes, if you have an exhaust leak then the O2 sensor reading will be inaccurate (lean) and you'll run rich.
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Feb 23, 2023 03:56
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I was wondering when you'd show up 
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Feb 23, 2023 04:00
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PainterofCrap posted:Um. What's weird is we've been driving this car for.. 5 years now? With a handful of several hundred mile trips. I subconsciously noticed the one wheel being in a bad spot when winter sludge would ice up and it would touch when turning, so I'd always make sure to kick it clean. But the mechanic did say it somehow was able to get decent alignment despite possibly needing frame work. Even better, the last mechanic who I did like never even mentioned it The joys of inherited cars I guess. We did know she'd backed into stuff repeatedly and banged up the bumper over and over
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Feb 23, 2023 04:11
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Honestly, I haven't even looked at a sensor in.. a long time. A lot because of covid but it's kind of weird to try to remember the last time I looked at a sensor. Can't remember.
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Feb 23, 2023 04:12
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Thanks guys, I put that sensor back in and it was too cold out to finish up (I gotta lie under the car to tighten a couple of bolts that hold the next segment of exhaust pipe in place) but I'll let y'all know if it doesn't pass smog.
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Feb 23, 2023 07:33
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Car Insurance Question - The saga of fixing my '13 Hyundai's rear end continues. Does talking to your insurance about "Something happened, but I'm unsure if I want to claim it" mean they are going to open a claim regardless? We are running into a problem with independent body shops around town saying they believe we should probably use our insurance, but they don't work with Geico because, "It takes forever." Have I just had bad luck with the body shops I've dealt with, or is that a real thing?
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Feb 23, 2023 13:50
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Captain Log posted:Car Insurance Question - Just file the claim and let them take care of it. It's not worth the aggravation you're piling up over it.
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Feb 23, 2023 14:55
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Deteriorata posted:Just file the claim and let them take care of it. It's not worth the aggravation you're piling up over it. You're probably right. I'm just the type who would rather pay more upfront and keep my premiums low. In my living situation, a monthly bill increasing an unknown amount is a big old pain in the rear end. I'm just amazed at how much trouble something so innocuous as a bumper getting knocked loose can cause.
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Feb 23, 2023 15:10
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I've noticed being behind a lot more cars lately where the CHMSL blinks or "flashes" when the brakes are engaged. Is this some new behavior someone decided to start? On one hand I don't think all of these Toyotas and Mazdas especially have electrical problems, but on the other I can see having observational bias now that I'm looking for it. Is this supposed to be safer? My initial take was that if adopted by all manufacturers this would eventually be like driving in heavy rain and ~everyone turns on their flashers~, thereby making the road extremely distracting for everyone.
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Feb 23, 2023 15:18
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Hed posted:I've noticed being behind a lot more cars lately where the CHMSL blinks or "flashes" when the brakes are engaged. Is this some new behavior someone decided to start? On one hand I don't think all of these Toyotas and Mazdas especially have electrical problems, but on the other I can see having observational bias now that I'm looking for it. It's an obnoxious add on that dealers like to overcharge for, while some car owners take it into their own hands to make it irritating.
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Feb 23, 2023 15:37
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