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I apologize, I’m assuming this has been asked before but I’m on the mobile app so I can’t search. I have a brz, which is a light, rear wheel drive car. I run Blizzak ws80’s in the winter, and my spring, summer, and fall tires need to be replaced. I live in the Philadelphia area. We easily get 40 degree swings in temperature during the spring and fall. When I replace my tires should I go for all seasons or for summer tires? I generally run the winter tires from thanksgiving to Easter. Thoughts?
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Jul 20, 2018 02:24
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Edit: never mind found it.
AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 22, 2019 |
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Feb 22, 2019 14:49
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I'm replacing the leaf springs and rear shocks on my 99 ranger, they are pretty shot on the drivers side  so I figure I'll just do both sides. I'm using the existing spring hangers, but everything else will be new. (leaf springs, bushings, shackles, U bolts and spring seats).I'm figuring it will be relatively straight forward but is there anything that I should look out for when I'm doing it? Any hints or anything I should know? AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Aug 27, 2019 |
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Aug 27, 2019 14:21
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wesleywillis posted:Use all new nuts and bolts, not just the U bolts. I figured on that already. Everything other than the hangers will be new. One of the YouTube videos I saw said I should take the time to spray the undercarriage with anti rust paint. I’m assuming that would be good advice?
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Aug 28, 2019 12:55
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MrOnBicycle posted:As long as it isn't rubberized crap that locks in moisture and rust. South Main Auto has some videos on this, like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXvl9nt57Kg I got the tip from watching this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ1o_F8ULjw I might just do the first coat (7:00, he recommends "rust reformer") and not the rubber part. Also while I'm under there I'm also going to install a tow hitch.
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Aug 28, 2019 14:37
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Shouldn't there have been hits on this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Plymouth-GTX/264483100198 Every now and then I play the "Go on ebay motors and dream" game, and it seems like this would have been a steal.
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Oct 7, 2019 18:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:I mean Mopar prices are always wonky but that looks pretty rough around the edges to be a $18-20k car - very tired but not original paint, cracked dash, missing radio, dangling wires, rust in the trunk. Hypothetically what would you offer for that?
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Oct 7, 2019 21:18
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Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/dodge/charger/2381694.html Why would this be going for so much lower than most chargers of that year/condition? Although I like the 68 grille more, the 68/69 charger is one of my ultimate dream cars (there's 4 Chrysler B Bodies on the list). Not only is it about 10K cheaper than I usually see them for, it's also local-ish. WSY,AI?
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Mar 11, 2020 18:15
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PainterofCrap posted:MOPARs rust. Ask the man that own(ed) one! poo poo I’m sorry I posted the wrong one Thoughts on this one? https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/dodge/charger/2385201.html The first one I posted was the “this one is 10k more and needs a ton more work” comparison. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 02:01
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Thanks. My wife gave me the hard "NO" already, but I appreciate this info. Hopefully in about 7 years if we're not all dead from a pandemic, these will be even a bit lower in cost. What car did you have, you've now mentioned owning mopar 2x.
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Mar 12, 2020 16:45
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Your old cars are far cooler than mine. Now I’m curious as to what your favorite car you ever owned was/is. Edit: I guess this is turning into the chat thread so if someone wants to end this tangent just say the word sorry to junk up the thread. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Mar 13, 2020 |
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Mar 13, 2020 01:05
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This is pretty much the definition of a stupid question. Is it possible to put together a full car (say a 1968 Plymouth GTX?) using parts catalogs? I was watching one of the videos posted in the awful car stuff, and I realized I'd totally end up falling for one of those "looks fixed but is actually poo poo" cars. I don't really have anyone that would be willing to travel with me to look at a potential car, and i certainly don't know what the hell I'm doing. I don't give a poo poo about numbers matching or anything, I just want a cool rear end car and not to get hosed over in finding one. The factory five cars seem like the perfect example, but I don't really want any of the kits they sell enough to spend 30+ grand on them (when you factor in paint, engine, rear, wheels and tires).
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May 13, 2020 16:02
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Noted. I think I'm just going to continue to save money and watch a shitload of youtube videos (and probably post in here) if I find something. Thanks
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May 13, 2020 17:48
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If my car seems to get slightly bogged down when starting, (75k miles) that’s probably a sign that the battery is starting to go, right?
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Jul 19, 2020 14:10
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spankmeister posted:For batteries the mileage isn't as important as the age is and the conditions they've been in. 5 years old, Philadelphia. So 4 true seasons and it’s hot as balls today. It’s definitely a dead battery. It is getting worse with each start id be surprised to get one more. However I guess it could be a bad alternator.
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Jul 19, 2020 14:29
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I am going to be doing the Mustang rear disc brakes on my 99 ranger soon, but I'm worried about removing the old brakes. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ford_ranger_rear_disc_brake_conversion.shtml I've seen a bunch of youtube videos about getting the cover off, but nothing about removing the entire system. The link I posted above just says "remove old brakes". Do they come off that easily?
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Jul 21, 2020 12:51
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I have a 99 ranger that needs rear brakes and I'm planning on swapping out the drum brakes with disc brakes. I'm not doing any heavy hauling with it, just trips to the depot pretty much. So my question is: Is it worth it, or do I just go in and replace all the parts of the drum brakes instead? Am I just being dumb and asking for trouble?
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Jul 24, 2020 14:37
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Motronic posted:Can you explain your reason for wanting to do this? That will tell us whether it's worth it or not. If the answer is "drum brakes are a pain to change" that's not a good one. In all honesty its "I want to learn how to replace drum brakes with disc brakes because hopefully in 5-10 years I'll be doing it on a much cooler car". I have grand ideas of doing a restomod on a late 60's/early 70's somethingorother, and a big part of buying a cheap rear end beater truck was to be able to teach myself car stuff on something that I didn't have to rely on to get to and from work every day. The ranger isn't going to be breaking any land speed records, and I know the disc brakes on it will be relatively wasted, but on the other hand the experience would be useful.
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Jul 24, 2020 16:57
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Motronic posted:If it's worth $500+ in parts and having a oddball truck where it might be a pain to find pads and rotors (depending on the kit you choose) there's certainly no harm in it. It's a good a reason as any. This is pretty much me just doing Youtube university to learn something.
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Jul 24, 2020 17:12
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cursedshitbox posted:Will it have a working parking brake? Yes it will have a parking brake. Nothing I've seen on anything discussing the conversion (rangerforums, rangerstation) have discussed proportioning the valve or master cylinder. If that's the case that might bump this out of the realm of "poo poo I'm comfortable doing". In 2010 and 11 the ranger had rear discs but those aren't compatible with mine apparently, but mustang brakes are pretty much a direct swap. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ford_ranger_rear_disc_brake_conversion.shtml https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine-drivetrain-122/how-rear-disc-brake-conversion-stock-28-spline-ranger-rear-end-95557/ ChrisFix on youtube is apparently working on a video detailing the whole process that I'm kind of waiting to see before buying anything. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 18:19
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is a giant pain and not worth the effort. I do not have ABS. I'm assuming your comment "this is a giant pain" is in reference to swapping out the brakes and not re-working the proportioning valve as curshedshitbox suggested. I'll defer to you guys on this one. No one has really said "What a great idea" so I'll probably just redo the drum internals and call it a day.
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Jul 27, 2020 15:33
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I am not a mechanic but that is possibly/probably a rear differential breather. https://www.4wdingaustralia.com/4x4/why-you-should-fit-diff-breathers-to-your-4wd/
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Jul 31, 2020 18:47
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Where would I find someone to make metal pieces like this: Trying to type in 1934 ford custom hood inserts doesn't get me poo poo, typing in Custom fab metal gets me everything in the world.
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Aug 10, 2020 18:05
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Grimes posted:I'm looking for a new (used) car, and I've been toying with the idea of getting a manual as my daily driver. I'd like to try it out first, but I don't have any friends who own a manual. You can learn to drive a manual relatively quickly, but if the car has an absolute poo poo clutch or something it's going to be a lot harder. So I'd recommend something with lower miles. I'd also recommend having someone who knows how to drive a manual transmission go with you to see how it feels, and they can drive it back for you and/or give you lessons. The only hard part of driving a manual transmission is going from a dead stop uphill. Otherwise it's pretty simple.
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Aug 18, 2020 18:44
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What are the chances that I regret my decision if I jump in with both feet and just buy one?
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bzw posted:My main issue is hating the wide variety of parts costs without any qualitative difference or reliable reviews. In particular, I'm going to undelete the cat. I suspect going too cheap is bad, but how bad? I'm in Canada, so the range is about $3-400 for a mufflerexpress job to $7-900 for Walker/NAPA/Magnaflow. I've found some good info for mine on https://www.ranger-forums.com/ Also if you need parts check out LMC truck, they have a ranger/bronco catalog that lets you pretty much rebuild the truck if you need to. Edit: Re Manual Transmissions: You can also get these stickers and feel superior to other drivers https://thecurbshop.com/collections/tmgps AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 11:46
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I would go to crutchfield.com and plug in your car info: https://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx I have no idea about international shipping, but at least it would tell you what stereo models you can get.
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Aug 20, 2020 14:54
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Grimes posted:Dumb manual car question #2) I'm looking at cars from around 2010-2012 and looking to spend about $5000 US / $6500 CAD on something reliable, sporty-ish/nimble, and reasonable on gas. I've been mainly looking for Mazda3s and Civics, but since I don't have to worry about shoddy automatic transmissions, are there any other cars that would be a solid option? An Impreza should be in that price point.
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Aug 20, 2020 19:32
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excellent bird guy posted:Can I get some advice about moving to the city? I am taking a temp job (13 weeks) in South Pittsburgh, a pretty hoppin nightlife area so parking will be on the street. My job is only 2 miles away and I could take a bus. Pittsburgh’s transit busses are pretty decent (at least as of 18 years ago when I lived there without a car) and you can get around with Uber pretty easily there so you might be okay.
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Sep 19, 2020 12:59
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15 Subaru BRZ on Continental DWS06s. I just had to get a new pair of tires. My front tire decided to blow a bubble on the side. The old tires are from 2 years ago, there's probably ~30K miles on them. I had the new tires put on the back/drive wheels, the old tires put on front. In the week I've had them on, I've noticed that the car feels a bit floaty at highway speeds. It's nothing terrible, it's just driving differently, and as I've got 75K miles in that car, I just notice that it's not driving the same. It was really bad the first day, but I checked my tire pressures and they had been overinflated. That made it better, but didn't fix the problem completely. I took it into the shop just to get someone to make sure it didn't need an alignment and that the suspension was a-ok. All is well on that end. My mechanic thinks it's because the old tires in the front aren't gripping as well as the back and that's why it feels floaty. He's recommending buying new tires for the front as well. As a side note, he didn't sell me the ones I just put on, so I don't think he's fishing for a tire sale. Thoughts? I've still got significant mileage left on the old tires before they would need to be replaced.
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Oct 26, 2020 15:31
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STR posted:What did you drop the pressure to? The pressure rating on the sidewall, or the rating on the sticker on the door jamb? Door jam (35psi) AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Oct 26, 2020 |
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Oct 26, 2020 16:52
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Trambopaline posted:I've got a 2013 Toyota 86 (FR-S/ BRZ etc etc), and I recently got hit by someone in the parking lot on the front . I've got a split in the bumper and a dented fender. I'm kinda curious about just buying an aftermarket bumper with insurance money rather than just replacing it with an OEM part. What's a reputable place to get aftermarket Japanese parts? I'm from New Zealand and looking around I'll have to import the parts anyway since nobody has much stock around here and being a RHD country I can just order straight from Japan. Likewise with coilovers - what's the way to shop from overseas? All of my 86 knowledge is US Centric, but your best bet for regional info is to try the Aussie section of the FT86 forums, you might find something there. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=20
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Oct 29, 2020 12:42
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spankmeister posted:Worst case you get six of a slightly different type of you can't get one that looks the same Or better, get 6 different ones just to really gently caress with whoever has to take it off next. Flat head, Phillips, Robinson, Torx, Hex, and one of those goofy tamper resistant ones to finish it off.
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Jan 8, 2021 13:21
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Deserted posted:Honda is dropping the Fit in 2020 Base model impreza?
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Jan 13, 2021 14:23
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I have a stupid tire question. I have a 99 ranger, rwd that is not my daily driver. The current tires are uniroyal all seasons (I can find out the actual name if it matters). Right now there’s still easily a 1/4” worth of tread left before the wear marks. The tires are at least a couple of years and over 10k miles old, they came with the truck. It snowed here over the weekend and although I shoveled most of it away there was still a couple small piles under the snow. Now I know that there’s no weight in the bed, but i couldn’t get enough traction to back it out of the spot this morning when I was going to work. So my question is: do I just have lovely tires or does the truck just suck rear end if there’s nothing in the bed to push down on the drive wheels? I know for a fact that my brz would have easily made it over the piles, even in my all seasons because it’s done exactly that already this year.
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Feb 10, 2021 22:05
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Motronic posted:Check the date code on the tires. Regardless of how much tread is left on them they are probably over 5 years old and hard as hockey pucks. That combined with no weight in the bed means you're not going anywhere. So today I learned a few things One how to check the date on tires Two that tires can be too old even if they have tread. (I put decent mileage on my cars every year, I’ve never had a set last more than 3 years) Three that I have to get new tires because they are 10 years old. https://youtu.be/avtK9Bz0sPg Thanks
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Feb 10, 2021 23:15
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Here’s a dumb question. Is there an ai discord? If not what are the thoughts of reaching out to whoever runs the diy discord and getting one set up on there?
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Feb 24, 2021 01:32
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99 Ranger 4cyl. Is there any reason the engine would be a little harder start when it's warmed up? I was running errands yesterday, on the cold start it was fine, but when I went to start it when it was warm it wouldn't catch until the second or third turn of the key. I just had a fuel filter replaced because if that matters at all.
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Mar 1, 2021 14:19
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DildenAnders posted:Could it be the engine getting heat soaked/vapor locked? I know some of the 4.0l Cherokee's had that problem, don't know if 4 cyl Rangers do.
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Mar 1, 2021 18:41
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I put my all seasons back on (switching from my winter tires) on the BRZ yesterday and I ran into an issue.  I knew I had one that would be stuck, so I bought 10 new wheel studs. The one that I knew of was on the front driver. The other 3 were from the back passenger, and I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. I don't use anything mechanical to put the lugs on, just a tire iron and then a torque wrench to get them to spec. I have a theory, but I don't know if it makes sense. I think I (or a tire shop) crossthreaded a lug on at one point. That stud, having been screwed up, screwed up a good lug nut, and in the course of swapping them out, the other studs got damaged by good lugs. I don't know if the hardness of the studs vs. the lugs makes that impossible, but it's the only thing I can think of that would cause 3 on the same wheel to fail. The third one that I did looked fine, but started to bind up a bit when I tightened it. When I tried to take it back off it decided to completely seize and then broke off. So it was loving annoying, but please tell me if I'm doing something obviously wrong so I don't have to do this again. I've seen multiple posts saying subaru studs suck, but I didn't expect this.
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Mar 22, 2021 11:53
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I've got a beater ford ranger with a double din head unit. I'd like something slightly more advanced, with carplay or something. It has bluetooth, but it's basic and I need to use my phone to control everything. Is there one of those standard AI recommended "this is a good basic head unit" that I could throw in there? The sound system pretty much sucks, so it doesn't have to be crazy powerful or anything.
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May 21, 2021 13:00
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