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Target Practice posted:Okay. It's got to come home with me regardless because the only other options are sell it or get a storage unit, which I'm certainly not doing. I would have to get an 8x20 ft unit, gently caress that noise. I mean....the body is straight and it's awesome. If you have the driveway space and can get in home at least get it ready to be stored properly and put a nice outdoor cover on it until you have the time/will/money to do it back up again. It doesn't need to be inspectable RIGHT NOW. This will also give you ample time to grow out a spectacular mullet and shop for trucker hats.
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Mar 9, 2020 23:17
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Motronic posted:This will also give you ample time to grow out a spectacular mullet and shop for trucker hats.
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Mar 9, 2020 23:29
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https://i.imgur.com/txAfMgr.mp4 Back in November I posted the above video because I had a death wobble on my '04 Wrangler. I swapped out the track bar, tie rod, and the drag link. Things were ok for a month or so then the wobble started to come back in late December or early January. I decided to just wait until the cold passed to work on it. Now today, I suddenly start getting a clunk in the front end. A clunk that wasn't there last week. When I stick my head back under there the passenger side of the track bar has half an inch of slop in it, so either the bushing just now failed suddenly, or it has been going bad rapidly but only started to really slip this week. I know I'll be replacing the track bar and a couple other parts. I'm wondering when the hell the track bar, which managed to go years before wearing out before, would go bad in just 2-3 months of city driving. The pavement here in the city is crap, but I haven't taken it offroad at all since I swapped the parts. Did I not get it torqued down correctly? Could the bushing have just been crap? It was MOPAR so I assumed that wouldn't be likely. Any thoughts of other things that might be causing it to wear out so fast? Nyyen fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 05:51
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I’ve found that whenever I replace [especially steering stuff, but any moving] parts, retorquing everything after a few miles is almost always necessary. You probably DID tighten it, but it worked itself loose again, which caused the failure.
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Mar 11, 2020 06:07
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Krakkles posted:I’ve found that whenever I replace [especially steering stuff, but any moving] parts, retorquing everything after a few miles is almost always necessary. Dammit. Well, at least it wasn't worse/more expensive.
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Mar 11, 2020 06:30
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Is this pulley too rusty? Is this accessory belt about to poo poo the bed?  My 05 Subaru Outback 3.0 has a bad whine, I'm trying to pin it down
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Mar 11, 2020 10:27
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simplefish posted:Is this pulley too rusty? quote:Is this accessory belt about to poo poo the bed? quote:My 05 Subaru Outback 3.0 has a bad whine, I'm trying to pin it down https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgwvTUEx3cc
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Mar 11, 2020 10:34
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spankmeister posted:Nope Thanks!
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Mar 11, 2020 10:36
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Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this: https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/dodge/charger/2381694.html Why would this be going for so much lower than most chargers of that year/condition? Although I like the 68 grille more, the 68/69 charger is one of my ultimate dream cars (there's 4 Chrysler B Bodies on the list). Not only is it about 10K cheaper than I usually see them for, it's also local-ish. WSY,AI?
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Mar 11, 2020 18:15
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I forgot northern Nevada's "regular" is 85 instead of 87, and pumped 15 gallons into my 36 gallon tank before I noticed. The rest is 87. Do I correctly understand that this will just average out to a tank of 86.16 octane? And if so how huge an issue will it be? E: ram van w/ 318 v8, manual says 87
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Mar 11, 2020 18:49
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Don't even think about it. Like, really, don't. It's inconsequential.
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Mar 11, 2020 19:40
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Yeah I pretty much did the math and drove off, but I don't like to completely disregard when I mismatch specified vehicle fluids so I wanted to ask
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Mar 11, 2020 19:53
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Unless your car is going to knock below 87, mixing them doesn't matter. I'm constantly going between 91 and 93 octane because gas stations have one or the other and I don't care enough to find all 93 octane stations everywhere I go. (I know about https://find93.com/ but it's too inaccurate, lots of stations change all the time themselves depending on what's easier to get that month or whatever, plus I'm occasionally in areas where I'd have to go 45 minutes out of my way or more to get 93)
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Mar 11, 2020 20:49
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If your vehicle has a functioning knock sensor and electronically controlled ignition timing it will automatically retard timing if there is spark knock caused by low octane. My grandfathers 1989 4.3L chevy truck was capable of this, I don’t know the specifics of a 1992 ram van. But its likely. Anything newer than 1996 for sure.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:12
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A few times I've put 89 into my car requiring 91 cause I was really low and in bumfuck with no premium option (but still had 89? I thought 89 was just a mix of 87 and 91), but I would put in enough to get back to town, try to stay out of the turbo range, and fill to the brim of 91 ASAP.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:28
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Javid posted:I forgot northern Nevada's "regular" is 85 instead of 87, and pumped 15 gallons into my 36 gallon tank before I noticed. The rest is 87. Do I correctly understand that this will just average out to a tank of 86.16 octane? And if so how huge an issue will it be? Where in Nevada? A lot of Nevada is over 2000ft, and you can get a lot higher, so with less air at elevation a lower octane is fine.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:44
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I pumped the 85 in Battle Mountain, but I'm going to be driving back to Medford (~900 feet) on this tank of ~86.25 I've got now. Like I vaguely understand the 85 works better up high but I'm not staying up here
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Mar 11, 2020 22:57
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Javid posted:I pumped the 85 in Battle Mountain, but I'm going to be driving back to Medford (~900 feet) on this tank of ~86.25 I've got now. Bullshit you are, You'll be coasting in on fumes! (you'll be fine. I just like to point out the lower air density for people on fuel octane requirements)
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Mar 11, 2020 23:30
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AFewBricksShy posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this: MOPARs rust. Ask the man that own(ed) one! The rockers are bondo'ed over. That does not bode well for the floorpans, especially at the rear. or the inner rear quarters/trunk pan. The lack of a comprehensive set of underbody photos is not good. Interior looks like an enraged honey badger was locked in it overnight. No engine compartment shots. Bumpers painted over. Hood shutlines suck. AND It's not an R/T I mean, I get they say it "needs restoration," but not at that price. Look around outside of Hemmings, Yes the Chargers are going for insane money, especially the R/Ts, but Hemmings is not the best place to go to find a reasonable bargain on one of these. Found a roller with a great body for $14K on eBay. You can get a 383 & TF for less than $10K also: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Dodge-Charger/184200226125?hash=item2ae330654d%3Ag%3AmngAAOSw9QVeYoXE&LH_ItemCondition=3000%7C1000%7C2500
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Mar 11, 2020 23:36
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Javid posted:I pumped the 85 in Battle Mountain, but I'm going to be driving back to Medford (~900 feet) on this tank of ~86.25 I've got now. You will be absolutely 100% fine. Seriously. If you're really concerned, don't hit full throttle, and top up with some 91/93 when you burn some off. The absolute worst case scenario is you might get some pinging under load, in which case just back off the throttle until it stops. But I really doubt a van had enough ignition timing dialed in to be fine on 87 but ping on <86.5.
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Mar 11, 2020 23:40
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How can I find out what coolant I have? I heard it was bad to mix them and colours aren't a reliable way to tell
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Mar 11, 2020 23:57
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What car do you have and how much do you think the PO(s) stuck to the OE recommendation? (and, what color coolant is in it now?)
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Mar 12, 2020 00:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:What car do you have and how much do you think the PO(s) stuck to the OE recommendation? 2005 Subaru Outback 3.0 Last topped up at a jiffylube type place Is currently luminous greeny yellow The thing throwing me off is that the local parts chain has an "input your registratiom plate" coolant finder, and that's saying I need blue?
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Mar 12, 2020 00:49
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I would say you've probably got generic "all brands" green poo poo in there, because it should be blue OAT. Green stuff is fine, it just doesn't last as long.
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Mar 12, 2020 01:46
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Reposting from Subaru thread, how are parts store axles. Still crap?
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Mar 12, 2020 01:49
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PainterofCrap posted:MOPARs rust. Ask the man that own(ed) one! poo poo I’m sorry I posted the wrong one Thoughts on this one? https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/dodge/charger/2385201.html The first one I posted was the “this one is 10k more and needs a ton more work” comparison. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 02:01
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would say you've probably got generic "all brands" green poo poo in there, because it should be blue OAT. Thanks, I'll chuck some in and let you know if it all goes tits up
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Mar 12, 2020 02:13
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AFewBricksShy posted:poo poo I’m sorry I posted the wrong one Overall looks good. Still not thrilled at the lack of a full set of underbody photos. I would still go over the rockers & rear quarter bottoms (all around the rear wheel arches, all the way back to the bumper & all along the front rockers) with a magnet. The underside's been painted. This can be fine - it always looks better in photos - or this can hide a lot of sins. Check the entire rear underside: sheetmetal & frame rails. Take a small hammer & tap on the frame. That they replaced all of the brake & fuel lines is a good thing. The only things jumping out from the photos: - Exhaust. At best you're looking at monoxide sucking in through the windows; at worst, you are asking for a fire, by terminating these ahead of the rear axle/gas tank & with cherry bombs. This is the rear end in a top hat hack stuff we did in high school. The piping needs to be carried back past the tank & terminate under the bumper. Hump pipes aren't that expensive. - Heater core has been bypassed. That means it's leaking. - Be mindful that this car has 4-wheel drum brakes. Chrysler drums are prone to fade (ask me how I know). It's not a deal killer, but avoid speeding down mountain roads... Having said that: if the car is as solid as it appears, you can correct the exhaust later. If you really love her & she's a keeper, there are disc conversions available. Run the engine up to temp. The 383 (if that's what it is. It's not a 318. Could be a 400 or 440) is prone to burning exhaust valves because the fuckers tend to run hot, and like to overheat in idling traffic. You'll hear a rhythmic sucking up the tailpipe at temp at idle from one or the other of those pipes. If you could reach one & hang your finger over the middle of the opening, it'll literally suck your finger in a little, on the vacuum pulse. I'm getting an overall vibe that this was originally grandma's grocery-getter that's been tarted up to mimic an R/T. The cut-corners on the exhaust and the bypassed heater core scream, "flip" to me but might just be poor judgement by the builder. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 16:14
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Thanks. My wife gave me the hard "NO" already, but I appreciate this info. Hopefully in about 7 years if we're not all dead from a pandemic, these will be even a bit lower in cost. What car did you have, you've now mentioned owning mopar 2x.
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Mar 12, 2020 16:45
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I've had a '74 Fury III hardtop 400, '75 Newport 440, '65 Fury III convertible 383, '74 Dart 225. Worked on my dad's '77 Aspen wagon 225 back in the day. '86 Ram conversion 318.
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Mar 12, 2020 16:47
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PainterofCrap posted:I've had a '74 Fury III hardtop 400, '75 Newport 440, '65 Fury III convertible 383, '74 Dart 225. Worked on my dad's '77 Aspen wagon 225 back in the day. '86 Ram conversion 318. Tell us more about the first few.
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Mar 12, 2020 17:51
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Tell us more about the first few. I paid: $75 for the '74 Fury III (in 1982) $650 for the 65 Fury III (in 1985) $175 for the Newport. (in 1994)  (not mine) I was in college & my '71 Toyota Corona MkII sedan had a bad cylinder & I couldn't find the cause. Traded it at a shoestring used car dealer in Elton, PA for the Fury. There was a bit of a gas crisis still on, so people were dumping V8s like crazy. There was also a saturated big-car market due to Johnstown flood cars from the '77 flood. This was a 2-door hardtop with a 400, metallic bronze with a black interior. Weirdly optioned with a power bench seat, rear defroster (a fan+heating element in a box!) & remote trunk release, manual windows & AM radio. 400 was in great shape & ran like a top. Drove it back & forth between Johnstown & Philadelphia on the regular all through college. I replaced the starter, idler arm, the driver's door (rust unzipped the bottom welds) and bypassed a solenoid switch to keep the heat running. Nothing else ever broke. Sold it in '84 for a '67 Deville convertible. Big mistake, although my first ragtop was a ton of fun.  (this is mine. Photo from 1986) Went looking for a '60s Pontiac convertible after I scored my first 'real' job out of college, in 1985, in the DC/Metro area. Nothing around. Found a '65 Fury for $700 in Lanham, MD. Owned by this old dude who just bought a Hyundai Excel. Paid him $650 cash for it. Rust in the rear quarters (inner & outer) trunk, trunk floor & doors. Did a lot of pop-riveting. Frame was solid & she ran well. Kept it ten years, the last five as more of a place-holder after I got married because money was tight & I knew that if I got rid of it, I'd never be able to get another. Just a fabulously easy car to work on. Ate a lot of starters & alternators, mostly because all I could afford was Pep Boys True Blue remans that failed constantly. It also ate a lot of U-joints. Dropped the driveshaft twice. What's with RWD Chryslers & lovely U-joints? This car almost killed me, crossing the ridge on Rt 164 between Martinsburg, PA & Raystown Lake. Using the brakes all the way, they faded out almost completely about 600-yards before a 180-degree hairpin just inside of a rock face. As the brakes failed completely & the car passed 50MPH, I dropped the transmission into 2nd. She protested, but took it. Engine-braked the rest of the way down the mountain, cooking brakes & transmission bands. Did I mention the car had no seat belts? They were optional in 1965...  (Raystown Lake, 1985) Pre-internet, I searched fruitlessly for rear-clip body parts; scored a decklid from Arizona, but the quarters were impossible. I intended to restore it and learned the hard way that you can't restore a DD. This was the one that kept burning exhaust valves. I got good at pulling the heads...and planning trips with the most freeway time, as it would overheat if you looked at it funny. Replaced radiators, water pumps...nothing worked. I re-rung the 383 in an unheated garage during the very cold winter of 1987; I found out that I must've missed torqueing a con-rod bottom cap nut when, four months later, I windowed the block at 75MPH on the 42 freeway outside of Bellmawr, NJ. Had I kept my wits about me, I would have just kept going until I got home. Motor ran fine, a bit rough on sound & idle. Swapped the motor out with a $250 yard 383. Drove it until 1990. Parked it to restore; eventually catalogued its needs to fully restore up to but not including paint, & found it would be cheaper to go after a 1966 Pontiac ful-sized convertible...so I did. Sold it for $1000 in 1996. The Newport was an in-betweenie beater when I had some car trouble. Bought it out of a yard in Phila. Primered, 4-door. Ran OK. Sold it three months later after acquiring another backup car that needed less work: '86 Escort L 5-sp with 250K on it. Basically the '74 Fury with more bells & whistles to break. VVV e: It's hard to pick one. I've owned 35-cars since 1979. I will always have a soft spot for the '71 Corona MkII, as it was my first; in 1978 at age 15 I persuaded my parents to buy it for me from my Mom's VW mechanic for $150. It was abandoned after disassembly for a timing-chain job. It came with all of the parts needed to fix it & the head, all in the trunk. I had previously only worked on my Dad's Opel, Mom's Renault 6 and a couple of 2-stroke motorcycles. Got it going with a Chilton manual, a K-Mart socket set, some of my Dad's cow tools, and a borrowed torque wrench. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Mar 13, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 21:03
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Those own.
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Mar 12, 2020 23:41
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Cool stories, thank you.
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Mar 12, 2020 23:53
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Your old cars are far cooler than mine. Now I’m curious as to what your favorite car you ever owned was/is. Edit: I guess this is turning into the chat thread so if someone wants to end this tangent just say the word sorry to junk up the thread. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Mar 13, 2020 |
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Mar 13, 2020 01:05
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All good IMO. Those are some great stories. More on topic though, what should I look at for intermittent noise while braking? It’s pretty infrequent but when it happens it sounds like one of the front brakes is grinding, mostly while braking, but maybe a little afterwards too. 2009 Honda Fit, BTW. I checked the pads and shoes and there wasn’t anything too alarming. Wear seemed even on both sides, and the rotors and drums looked the same too. The only thing I can think of is disassembling and greasing the front calipers and making sure the calipers are torqued down. Anything else I should look for? If that didn’t do it , try replacing the calipers?
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Mar 13, 2020 04:32
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nitsuga posted:I checked the pads and shoes and there wasn’t anything too alarming. No judging......but HOW did you check them? Were the wheels off? Because a lot of times it's a sticky caliper and the inboard pad that you can't see without pulling the wheel is totally trash.
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Mar 13, 2020 04:55
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Motronic posted:No judging......but HOW did you check them? Were the wheels off? I'll be taking a look again, but I pulled the wheels (and drums) to take a look at both the front and back. I swear all the pads had about the same amount of depth left on the channel in the middle of the pad, but I didn't measure it (not quite sure how I would anyway). Based on the sound, I think it's the front passenger, so I should be able to at least get another look at that today. If it is a sticking caliper though, is it worth trying to grease everything up again, or would you simply replace the caliper(s)? nitsuga fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Mar 13, 2020 |
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Mar 13, 2020 15:55
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nitsuga posted:If it is a sticking caliper though, is it worth trying to grease everything up again, or would you simply replace the caliper(s)? It's usually just the slider pins that need to be greased if you have one stuck/uneven pad wear from side to side. If they are particularly bad you may even be able to replace just the pins.
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Mar 13, 2020 16:14
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Replacing bent valves, is there any benefit to buying brand new ones over used, straight ones?
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Mar 14, 2020 13:10
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