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Edit: wrong thread.
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 12:15 on Oct 1, 2015 |
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Oct 1, 2015 11:53
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:32 |
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Dumb question: What kind of car is this?
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Dec 21, 2017 04:47
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That was loving fast. Thanks!
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Dec 21, 2017 04:51
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Anybody know what model of Escort this is? It's not the oldest model but it's pretty close, and there's nothing to indicate a model number at all.  I found it tucked away in a relative's garage and was told to garbage it if I didn't want it. I have a Max 2 so this is practically useless to me, but it seemed about on-par for signal detection when I ran them side by side. It's pretty shaky on differentiating between the bands (it seems to think a powerful K signal is a Ka signal and doesn't differentiate between K and X at all), but it seems to get all of them. It was even picking up signals that my Max wasn't, but probably just noise as far as I can tell. I was thinking of selling it to one of the delivery drivers I work with. Not because it'll do him any good, but because it'll false-positive on every automatic door all over the city and gently caress with his head constantly, thereby slowing him down and levelling out the playing field a bit. In the bizz he's what we call a "snake," and has a habit of taking deliveries that were supposed to be other drivers' so long as it benefits him the most and nobody stops him before he gets out the door. He "slithers" away with whatever he can get away with. Usually it's not worth going to management over, but it can really piss off your coworkers after a while. Personally I couldn't imagine using a detector without GPS lockout, especially one that thinks nearly every automatic door is a cop.  But first I need to know roughly what it's worth, and google/ebay surprisingly aren't helping. LaserShark posted:I don't have a diagnostic tool myself, but I could pick one up. I have a Veepeak OBDII BDE scanner, $40 on Amazon. Plug it into your OBD port and it connects via bluetooth to your phone. You can stream realtime sensor data to custom gauge clusters, log colour-coded GPS maps correlating that sensor data to visual information, and best of all: check and reset codes. I've only used the OBD Fusion app but it does all the stuff I mentioned and was only $14. A+ would recommend. Edit: Those are Canadian prices, if you're in the States it's probably a little cheaper. Edit 2: Check if it'll work with your Escape first, depending on year the OBDII BDE scan tool may or may not be compatible. XYZAB fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Jun 30, 2018 |
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Jun 30, 2018 08:56
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Rexxed posted:http://escortradarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14367 drat, thanks! It doesn't even do Ka apparently. 
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Jun 30, 2018 |
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Jun 30, 2018 10:41
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Anybody know any hot-poo poo tips to get a Grand Prix LCA balljoint to separate from the knuckle it's dangling from? The only thing now connecting that lovely Dorman LCA to my car is apparently some sort of voodoo magic. I have hammers that I'll try in the morning but none of the special prying tools I've read about, how hosed am I without them?
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Jul 12, 2018 09:50
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How bad is it really to drive down a gravel road on Nitto NT555 G2s? I was invited to a coworker's after-office BBQ tomorrow but didn't realize they live out in the boonies before I accepted, and apparently there's a 10km stretch of gravel somewhere between here and there. The guy who convinced me to buy these tires was incredibly adamant that I should avoid gravel at at all costs, or if it's unavoidable, to drive super slow over it, but it's not really realistic to go 10km/h for an hour on what would be an otherwise 20 minute drive. Edit: VVV Thanks guys, I’ll just go for it and see what happens. 
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Jul 19, 2023 |
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Jul 18, 2023 02:45
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The front right CV axle on my 2007 Grand Prix GT has been spitting grease lately and something started clicking while turning the other day, so I'm on Rockauto looking at replacements. I replaced the front left about three years ago and its boots have just starting to leak, but nowhere near the catastrophic failure leakage level that the front right seems to have undergone over the last few months, so it's time to take care of this one now. I see a GSP Xtreme Heavy Duty CV axle that looks like it would be the one to go for, EXCEPT it says "Front Right; with 3.06 Final Drive Ratio". I thought final drive ratio was a transmission spec, not a CV axle spec? As far as I am aware, these '07 GT models have a 2.93 final drive ratio, mine included, so I'm wondering A.) Does this change my front right tire to a 3.06 final drive ratio? B.) Is it supposed to be for Grand Prix models that come standard with the 3.06 final drive ratio (i.e., the non GT trim)? and C.) Will this or won't this work with my car? There's a front left and a front right by GSP, but only the right says it's "with 3.06 final drive ratio", so I'm like, huh? What the gently caress??  Do CV axles change gear ratios or can I just slap it in and not worry about it?
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Sep 8, 2023 00:07
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Hadlock posted:Previous shop lost my wheel lock to my stock factory rims Locking lugnut sets are cheap on Rockauto. But also I loving hate when poo poo like that happens. I took one of my summer wheels in to have the tire repaired and the motherfuckers stole my chrome valve cap and replaced it with a lovely plastic one, but I didn’t realize it until the next day, and then what am I going to do? Drive back there and waste an hour complaining about them losing/keeping a $3 part? Drives me loving nuts.
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Sep 13, 2023 21:19
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I'm thinking about taking a cordless grinder and/or sawzall to a pick-n-pull to carve a rust free rear quarter panel out of a donor 04-08 Grand Prix, as this is the last winter I think I can let mine rust to poo poo before it gets beyond hope. Are there any videos anyone could recommend about the dos and do nots about this kind of thing? Ideally I'd want to take the panel that I can-opener off of a donor to a body shop and let them do their thing with it, thinking that by having this panel already I'll be saving some amount of money. Or is that just an unnecessary step for what will be a stupid expensive job that they can take care of regardless, and should I even bother going through the hassle?
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Oct 30, 2023 23:19
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The starter motor on my Grand Prix decided to eat poo poo last night, and it’s going to be minus 25°C next week so I bit the bullet and bought a reman starter motor from a local parts shop, but I just took it out to start the job and noticed there’s a breather plug that‘s half fallen apart on it that I’m concerned is going to get chewed up immediately on first start and/or cause a failure way sooner than I’d like from allowing dirt and poo poo into straight off the bat. Is this worth returning to the store over, or does it really matter? The starter motor on the car right now doesn’t even have a breather port in the same place for me to grab that rubber part off of, so I’m like, uhh... Should I care about this or not? Edit: I called the store and they don’t have another one in stock for me to go swap it with, and the guy told me not to worry about it because “it’s just to let humidity out if it gets in.” And I’m like, uhh, that doesn’t make any loving sense. It’s going to be letting water in nonstop at this point. Considering that my other one doesn’t have that port, should I just duct tape over it? Or is that guy correct to say I shouldn’t worry about it?   
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 6, 2024 22:04
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I've taped over it for now, with the intention of bringing the broken one back with me to the store when I go back for my core refund and being like "yo I want one of these and I don't want to pay for it." Or I could order a replacement from eBay or something for like $10. Alternately, the pick-n-pull lot opens back up on Tuesday so I could probably just go snag one from something out there. Gasket maker or JB weld would cost about as much and might not work, so I'll try to source an original before going that route. It's probably not the end of the world though. The car starts now, which is great. Coincidentally, aside from brakes and suspension, this is the biggest 'engine compartment' job I've ever tried to tackle, and the first "welp my car is dead, but why??" job where I was 90% certain what the problem was without really knowing what to base that assumption off of, and not only was I correct, but it was easy as gently caress to take care of, too. If I had had the car towed to my mechanic's place it'd be sitting there for WEEKS!!! 
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Jan 7, 2024 01:24
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AK-47 posted:Just took my 100k 2013 Impreza in for oil service and they said its brake job time and there is no chance I'm paying the 1-1.5k I'm getting quoted and want to just do it myself. Seems like this should have everything I need https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10185348&cc=1504984&pt=13824&jsn=10137 my only question is if it's worth paying the 50 dollars more for this set or if the stock replacement is fine. I live in the PNW and go to salty/snowy places fairly often so I figured the coated ones might be worth the extra. I've done brakes enough to know that you probably don't need to replace your rotors and can save a shitload more than you're expecting by not having to buy new ones if you really don't want to. Unless they're totally trashed and pitted (go out and look at them), the most you'll probably need to do is replace the pads, and it would probably be a great idea to bleed the lines and get some fresh fluid in there if it's never been done. If your rotors ARE kind of pitted and trashed, rather than buying new ones, the most cost effective way to deal with that issue is to have your garage throw them on a lathe and have them resurfaced (also called machined or ground/grinded (?) ), which is like $30/rotor at my garage and probably most places are similar. That being said, I'm not your mechanic, I don't have your car in front of me, and if your rotors ARE super trashed, either super pitted, or worse (warped), THEN it might be time for new rotors (or to get them resurfaced). Otherwise, if you're really looking to save cash, like if that's your #1 priority, just buy pads and some brake fluid + 3/8" vinyl tubing to bleed them and you'll probably* be fine. Bleeding brakes can seem daunting but it's really pretty simple once you've got everything in front of you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc As for coated vs non coated, in my experience, coated rotors eventually rust anyway, even if you paint the central hub area it'll wear down or get dirty and just look super lovely in a hurry. You have to remember too that the pads are going to be exposing 75% of the surface area of the rotors every time you mash your foot into that pedal to avoid hitting pedestrians lost in their own little world or stray dogs or whatever anyway. I would sooner go for drilled and slotted rotors than worry about coated rotors, if that's an option for you. Helps to dissipate heat, with less likelihood of warpage over time. XYZAB fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 04:12
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Kvlt! posted:Just wanted to say thank you to everyone re: project for my old man and I. I'm doing some research into all the different ideas and things suggested, but helped immensely in kinda giving us a place to start regarding what we want to do and what we are capable of. I appreciate it! There's a magical combination of cheap, easy, reliable, powerful, and plentiful, with lots of aftermarket support, that can be found in two engines that I'm acquainted with: the GM 3800 Series II or III with an Eaton M90 supercharger, or a GM 5.3L V8. Walk into any parts yard and you're liable to find a dozen of each in some configuration or another. Maybe fewer 3800s with the supercharger, but a lot of N/A 3800s that could be supercharged after the fact. If you build a 3800 S/C you could drop it into a Fiero, or a 5.3L into literally any truck you want. Edit: This assumes you're in North America. If you're in Europe then the aforementioned likely doesn't apply. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone have a recommended tire pressure gauge? I've got a cheap one from a gas station that reads about 6-7 PSI off from my Kobalt tire inflator, but I know portable inflators have a bad reputation for maintaining accuracy and I've had this one about a year and a half. I'd really like something reliable that I can keep in my glove box. Milton Industries S921 or S925 Pencil Tire Gauge, whichever gauge is within the pressure range for your specific use case. They're solid as hell. Edit 2: I just gave myself a great idea. Gregg Distributors usually has quality poo poo so I'm snooping their online catalogue for DMM's and found this Lisle CAT III DMM. Gregg's doesn't list prices because they're goofy like that, but other websites list this unit at about $100CAD, and it looks like it should suffice for everything I need. So,   Edit 3: Snagged one on ebay for $50.
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 9, 2024 01:21
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry I know you crossed this out but you're not using it in DC Voltage to measure current right? You have to pop your hood and driver side door (if that's where you access your fuses), manually close the latches with a screwdriver or similar, lock the car, let it sit for 45 min or so to let all the different modules turn off, then bridge the negative battery terminal to the negative battery lead with your multimeter probes, with the MM in DC current mode (usually you have to plug the leads into different holes on the MM). This means that all the juice going to your car is going through the MM so you'll be seeing a quantifiable measure of the current draw. I'm waiting for this circuit draw tester with extra inline fuses to arrive to make sure things are extra safe, but while I wait for it I decided it might be wise to just do a quick check on the alternator last night to try and rule that out. I followed exactly as ChrisFix outlined in that video, and barely got into the first step before it was obvious that something was malfunctioning, nothing was registering on the meter, and the leads basically started melting. So much for that plan. Innova 1-star reviews on Amazon have a bunch of people saying they had similar issues, so I chalked it up as a dud and sent it back. This is how I intend to check for parasitic draw. There are a couple videos that show simpler ways but I just can't wrap my head around the ones that require me to refer to charts. The first method makes intuitive sense to me, and if it works, great. If it doesn't, then I guess it's chart time.  Edit: I should state that I've never done this before in case that weren't obvious, and whereas I'm familiar with soldering and simple circuits at a very basic level, my knowledge of electrical fundamentals is rudimentary at best, and so my success in doing this largely hinges on people like ChrisFix, or yourself, or anyone in this thread who wants to chime in and correct anything that is so blatantly incorrect that you worry for my own safety and the safety of those around me, to spell this stuff out for me, and I appreciate any and all advice that comes my way. I'll take your alarm fuse suggestion to heart when and if pulling that fuse specifically becomes necessary, specifically because I installed a bunch of old Cadillac horns a few months ago and I'm already losing dB in the range of human speech from how many times I've accidentally triggered the alarm in the 5' distance it takes me to get from my car door to the garage door. Seriously, whose idea was it at GM to hook the hood latch up to a random number generator that decides whether it triggers the alarm at that given instance based on zero other considerations? Because that's just so loving cruel. XYZAB fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jan 9, 2024 |
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Jan 9, 2024 03:34
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Digital War posted:Battery is two years old. Jump starting the car had no effect at all. Relay clicks but engine didn't even try to turn over. This happened to my Ponti-wreck on Friday. I'm used to having to boost it, so when I turned the key I was at least expecting something to attempt to turn over. Nope. I heard the relay click, and then silence. I started by checking the relay and a couple fuses, but those were all fine. Next step, troubleshooting the starter. For funzies if you can get up under the car, smack the starter with a hammer a few times. Then, try starting the car. If it starts, cool, that's all you need: a new starter. Smacking a dying starter with a hammer should dislodge the stuck contacts within and give it a few more starts, and if you really don't feel like doing it yourself then this can give you enough time to drive it to a mechanic and let them deal with it. I smacked mine a few times, turned the key, and it started straight away. Bingo. Then I turned it off and tried again: nothing. So I replaced it on Saturday, and now the car starts just fine. You said your battery reads 12V so I'm suspicious of anyone confidently saying it's dead. You wouldn't be hearing the relay flick on if the battery was dead, nor would everything light up as you described. Also please post here again when you find out what was wrong. XYZAB fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 04:09
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:32 |
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If my car’s line voltage dips between 12 and 14 volts inconsistently while idling or driving, that’s a pretty surefire sign that the alternator is on its way out, yeah? I’ve been trying to tackle this electrical gremlin for a while. Every time I’ve tested the DC voltage with a multimeter at idle it shows ~14V, so I was quick to dismiss the alternator as being the problem. Then I realized there’s a battery voltmeter monitor hidden in my car’s default selectable gauge cluster, so I’ve been driving around with it in that mode and watching it closely. It takes a while of driving around for it to get above 13.5V, and the lead up time to anything approaching 14V is suspiciously long. If it were functioning properly I’d be getting a consistent 14+ V as soon as it’s idling, and furthermore, while I’m driving, right?
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Mar 11, 2024 00:01
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