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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Someone on these here forums posted that they won’t have turn by turn audio because it interrupts they tunes. 🙋🏻♂️
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Jan 4, 2024 21:46
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Someone on these here forums posted that they won’t have turn by turn audio because it interrupts they tunes. Well I mean that's reasonable, like lots of others I have non-alert audio turned off most of the time and glance over instead. It's a little more dangerous since I have to look at the screen more but it's fine. I only miss my exits sometimes, and only a bad driver never misses their exit. e: Apple Watch can also tap your wrist, I think it's a different tap pattern for left/right turn ahead Inner Light fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 22:23
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Someone on these here forums posted that they won’t have turn by turn audio because it interrupts they tunes. I mean, it keeps me from punching my phone in the first three minutes of driving. "Left turn coming up, left turn in 400 ft, left turn now". *off* Though like 99% of the time I have navigation on my phone is to get traffic alerts, not directions.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:36
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I’ve got a fancy-rear end sub in the back of my Spark. You better believe I’m not having Chat GPT rear end sounding voices blare at me in 100 decibels while I’m enjoying Pete and Bas.
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Jan 4, 2024 22:54
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Turn-by-turn audio makes listening to podcasts or spoken word, etc impossible
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Jan 4, 2024 23:00
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I hate turn by turn, it drives me insane. I am fully capable of glancing at the screen occasionally without a robot voice constantly barraging me. Only exception is on the bike where I never ever want to look down at a screen, I'll run turn by turn through my Sena in the rare instance I need it.
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Jan 4, 2024 23:47
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Captain Log posted:I’ve got a fancy-rear end sub in the back of my Spark. You better believe I’m not having Chat GPT rear end sounding voices blare at me in 100 decibels while I’m enjoying Pete and Bas. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEbJ4qLiMu0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Q9rewnLFYw I haven't pushed much bass through my stock speakers but they do have a sub. It's not very good, I'll have to see how trash these sound. Bad stock audio in cars is ultra bad. Props to you for having a sub 
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jan 5, 2024 |
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Jan 5, 2024 01:12
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opengl posted:Only exception is on the bike where I never ever want to look down at a screen, I'll run turn by turn through my Sena in the rare instance I need it. poo poo, I had a bike before a smart phone, so I either just rode around randomly and didn't mind getting lost, or I wrote a list of the turns I had to take and taped it to the gas tank.
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Jan 5, 2024 03:33
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Captain Log posted:I’ve got a fancy-rear end sub in the back of my Spark. You better believe I’m not having Chat GPT rear end sounding voices blare at me in 100 decibels while I’m enjoying Pete and Bas. We are brothers, I thought I was the only one with a sub still and also an enjoyer of those two.
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Jan 5, 2024 03:37
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My boss still prints out paper maps for me when I go to sites. You want me to use up my battery and my data, buy me a fuckin phone and pay for that bitch. Just give me one showing the closest major intersection and then one close up with the surrounding area. One thing that absolutely blows my fuckin mind is that motherfuckers I work with don't seem to remember how to get to the places they were the day before. Sometimes I'll go out to a site on the second day, and they'll drive and they still need that fuckin GPS. "Dude, you were there yesterday, you drove there and back, how the gently caress do you not remember"?!?!? Sorry to rant. I'll take my paper map rear end out.
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Jan 5, 2024 03:38
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wesleywillis posted:My boss still prints out paper maps for me when I go to sites. You want me to use up my battery and my data, buy me a fuckin phone and pay for that bitch. I still just look up where i'm going before hand and wing it. Getting lost is half the fun.
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Jan 5, 2024 03:42
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Powershift posted:I still just look up where i'm going before hand and wing it. It is, but not in my work truck, which sometimes has trouble fitting down streets, when I have to be at a site at a certain time.
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Jan 5, 2024 04:08
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Getting lost is how my buddy and I accidentally ended up in Canada. Turning left in Richford VT sends you to Canada, the other choices do not. The Canadian side was fine, US Border Patrol wanted to be a dick to two guys on sport bikes. "What're you hiding?" "In an R6? Nothing. Literally."
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Jan 5, 2024 06:41
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I broke the center tab of the front grille of my Saab 900, there are three tabs holding it to the frame on top. I tried to epoxy glue it but it was a weak bond. Someone on the last page mentioned plastic welding. Do I need a special plastic welding tool for that or can I just go at it with a soldering gun? Are there plastic welding rods too or do you just remelt the existing plastic together? Maybe it acts like a flux I was thinking, to make a stronger bond, since not all plastics like being melted or create a strong bond. I was thinking of drilling a bunch of small holes earlier, and "sewing" it together with mig-wire or similar, then maybe epoxy all over that, I got some other metal epoxy stuff (devcon) that's a step up from the clear quick epoxy I was using. It's not gonna be visible anyway. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Jan 5, 2024 |
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Jan 5, 2024 14:28
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VelociBacon posted:We are brothers, I thought I was the only one with a sub still and also an enjoyer of those two.  Being The Whitest Man Alive with a twelve rattling apart his micro-machine sized car is an experience.
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Jan 5, 2024 14:48
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Captain Log posted:
Hell yeah. I'll take a photo of my trunk and post it here later on like it's 2003 on a car forum.
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Jan 5, 2024 15:04
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His Divine Shadow posted:Do I need a special plastic welding tool for that or can I just go at it with a soldering gun? Captain Log posted:I’ve got a fancy-rear end sub in the back of my Spark. You better believe I’m not having Chat GPT rear end sounding voices blare at me in 100 decibels while I’m enjoying Pete and Bas. trilobite terror posted:Turn-by-turn audio makes listening to podcasts or spoken word, etc impossible You would think by now that you would be able to adjust the volume for navigation separately. Podcasts and books are recorded at a much lower volume than everything else so you get the occasional 'THERE IS A SPEED TRAP AHEAD" at 110db warning you about the cop you passed a minute ago.
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Jan 5, 2024 15:05
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SpeedFreek posted:You would think by now that you would be able to adjust the volume for navigation separately. Podcasts and books are recorded at a much lower volume than everything else so you get the occasional 'THERE IS A SPEED TRAP AHEAD" at 110db warning you about the cop you passed a minute ago. you can, at least in Carplay
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Jan 5, 2024 15:17
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The PO put this nasty lovely film on the top of the windshield and the rear glass. I got the stuff off the windshield with a razor blade, but I'm worried about loving up the rear defrost wires if I try the same on the back glass. Any tips on how to remove this lovely old film?
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Jan 5, 2024 21:32
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Marvin K. Mooney posted:The PO put this nasty lovely film on the top of the windshield and the rear glass. I got the stuff off the windshield with a razor blade, but I'm worried about loving up the rear defrost wires if I try the same on the back glass. Any tips on how to remove this lovely old film? Sick AW11. I have found that isopropyl alcohol, lots of towels, gloves, and a steamer is the best for this. To get that film off assume it's going to take a ton of tedious tiny work. You can use a razor but just use it to cut the film between the defroster lines, and be extremely careful when pulling the film off them. If you don't want/have a steamer then you should be OK with isopropyl and patience. Slice, peel back a bit, squirt in some alcohol and let it work a bit, then slowly pull the film down. If the film is a bastard I'd also take both the seats out of the car just to have more room to work.
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Jan 5, 2024 21:51
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Also worth looking into what a new piece of rear glass would cost. I doubt a regular shop would have one super readily available, but it might cost less than you’d think to get a new rear windshield
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Jan 6, 2024 02:34
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Good advice. I had been using a diluted ammonia spray, but it didn't seem to be helping. Will try isopropyl too. I hadn't thought of a steamer, I'll try to borrow one and see if a little heat would help.
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Jan 6, 2024 04:06
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Marvin K. Mooney posted:Good advice. I had been using a diluted ammonia spray, but it didn't seem to be helping. Will try isopropyl too. I hadn't thought of a steamer, I'll try to borrow one and see if a little heat would help. It seems to work differently depending on the tint. Since I've imported a whole heap of 80s and 90s JDM things, lots of lovely tint is something I've dealt with a lot. Unfortunately yeah just...tedious little small bits of work even though you want so badly to just rip big chunks off at a time. Steaming-wise be sure to pile up towels at the base so you don't soak anything below the window and just spray into cuts you make between the lines, tends to bubble the tint up from the glass. Some tint reacts really well to this, others stick much harder, but the steam and probably the heat really gently caress up the glue.
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Jan 6, 2024 04:09
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Is push button start safer than keyed ignition? Safety: 1) Push button start required pushing the brakes to start the engine - this safety advantage seems to be negated by keyed ignition requiring cars to be in park or clutch engaged before starting. 2) Push button start might (or might not) stop you from shutting off the engine while driving, Google has gone back and forth on whether this is safer or more dangerous than keys, I think it depends on the vehicle and some might let you accidentally shut off the engine while driving. Still, I think this is safer than keys because keys have no protection from shutting off the engine while driving if you turn the key. Security: 1) Push button has a transponder and is therefore more secure than a physical key. Except hackers can clone your transponder- I'm not sure that is real. 2) Keys are less secure because they are physical, however I think this is really only an issue on Kias. Did Kias just have a bad ignition cylinder, or was it also the lack of a transponder in the key? Don't a lot of cars have a keyed ignition with a transponder in the key? Safety/security: Apparently some vehicles will let you drive away without the transponder present and then once you get to your destination you can shut off the car and not be able to restart the car due to not having the transponder present. I honestly can't see this as being a serious problem, that seems like a kind of difficult mistake to make. Overall, I think keyed ignition + transponder in the key is probably the most secure, the downsides being it's less convenient to have to remember to take out your keys (and not lock them in the car) and you could accidentally turn off the car while driving, but given the steering column location I don't really think that's much of an issue.
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Jan 6, 2024 16:25
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Not Wolverine posted:Is push button start safer than keyed ignition? imo there's no significant safety difference, just convenience. I like being able to leave my keys in my pocket when I start the car. Push button start is probably cheaper to implement for the manufacturers.
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Jan 6, 2024 16:38
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Marvin K. Mooney posted:nasty lovely film I've only ever done it once, but the PO installed rear window film I removed (not ugly, just too dark to see anything after sunset) wasn't being a bastard and came out with just a razor blade, a hair dryer and a bit of patience. All defroster wires made it OK too. Probably just dumb luck on my part.
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Jan 6, 2024 16:39
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My 2017 VW requires i push the brake to start it with the key. That’s not unique to push button cars.
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Jan 6, 2024 16:40
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Car thieves at this point will stand outside your door with a big antenna to extend the range of the key allowing them to start push button cars. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxzm_6SYBFo
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Jan 6, 2024 18:43
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Yup, I thought it was some  poo poo at first but I keep my keys in a faraday box now.
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Jan 6, 2024 18:49
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The starter motor on my Grand Prix decided to eat poo poo last night, and it’s going to be minus 25°C next week so I bit the bullet and bought a reman starter motor from a local parts shop, but I just took it out to start the job and noticed there’s a breather plug that‘s half fallen apart on it that I’m concerned is going to get chewed up immediately on first start and/or cause a failure way sooner than I’d like from allowing dirt and poo poo into straight off the bat. Is this worth returning to the store over, or does it really matter? The starter motor on the car right now doesn’t even have a breather port in the same place for me to grab that rubber part off of, so I’m like, uhh... Should I care about this or not? Edit: I called the store and they don’t have another one in stock for me to go swap it with, and the guy told me not to worry about it because “it’s just to let humidity out if it gets in.” And I’m like, uhh, that doesn’t make any loving sense. It’s going to be letting water in nonstop at this point. Considering that my other one doesn’t have that port, should I just duct tape over it? Or is that guy correct to say I shouldn’t worry about it?   
XYZAB fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 6, 2024 22:04
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Powershift posted:Car thieves at this point will stand outside your door with a big antenna to extend the range of the key allowing them to start push button cars.
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Jan 6, 2024 23:29
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XYZAB posted:The starter motor on my Grand Prix decided to eat poo poo last night, and it’s going to be minus 25°C next week so I bit the bullet and bought a reman starter motor from a local parts shop, but I just took it out to start the job and noticed there’s a breather plug that‘s half fallen apart on it, uhh... Should I care about this or not? You could probably tape it over, but it may not vent the same way that your old one does. Alternative: Silicone adhesive caulk or Fel-Pro adhesive gasket maker. Butter up that bottom flange & shove it back in.
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Jan 6, 2024 23:57
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I've taped over it for now, with the intention of bringing the broken one back with me to the store when I go back for my core refund and being like "yo I want one of these and I don't want to pay for it." Or I could order a replacement from eBay or something for like $10. Alternately, the pick-n-pull lot opens back up on Tuesday so I could probably just go snag one from something out there. Gasket maker or JB weld would cost about as much and might not work, so I'll try to source an original before going that route. It's probably not the end of the world though. The car starts now, which is great. Coincidentally, aside from brakes and suspension, this is the biggest 'engine compartment' job I've ever tried to tackle, and the first "welp my car is dead, but why??" job where I was 90% certain what the problem was without really knowing what to base that assumption off of, and not only was I correct, but it was easy as gently caress to take care of, too. If I had had the car towed to my mechanic's place it'd be sitting there for WEEKS!!! 
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Jan 7, 2024 01:24
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Jan 7, 2024 01:47
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Just took my 100k 2013 Impreza in for oil service and they said its brake job time and there is no chance I'm paying the 1-1.5k I'm getting quoted and want to just do it myself. Seems like this should have everything I need https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10185348&cc=1504984&pt=13824&jsn=10137 my only question is if it's worth paying the 50 dollars more for this set or if the stock replacement is fine. I live in the PNW and go to salty/snowy places fairly often so I figured the coated ones might be worth the extra.
AK-47 fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 03:17
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AK-47 posted:Just took my 100k 2013 Impreza in for oil service and they said its brake job time and there is no chance I'm paying the 1-1.5k I'm getting quoted and want to just do it myself. Seems like this should have everything I need https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10185348&cc=1504984&pt=13824&jsn=10137 my only question is if it's worth paying the 50 dollars more for this set or if the stock replacement is fine. I live in the PNW and go to salty/snowy places fairly often so I figured the coated ones might be worth the extra. I've done brakes enough to know that you probably don't need to replace your rotors and can save a shitload more than you're expecting by not having to buy new ones if you really don't want to. Unless they're totally trashed and pitted (go out and look at them), the most you'll probably need to do is replace the pads, and it would probably be a great idea to bleed the lines and get some fresh fluid in there if it's never been done. If your rotors ARE kind of pitted and trashed, rather than buying new ones, the most cost effective way to deal with that issue is to have your garage throw them on a lathe and have them resurfaced (also called machined or ground/grinded (?) ), which is like $30/rotor at my garage and probably most places are similar. That being said, I'm not your mechanic, I don't have your car in front of me, and if your rotors ARE super trashed, either super pitted, or worse (warped), THEN it might be time for new rotors (or to get them resurfaced). Otherwise, if you're really looking to save cash, like if that's your #1 priority, just buy pads and some brake fluid + 3/8" vinyl tubing to bleed them and you'll probably* be fine. Bleeding brakes can seem daunting but it's really pretty simple once you've got everything in front of you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc As for coated vs non coated, in my experience, coated rotors eventually rust anyway, even if you paint the central hub area it'll wear down or get dirty and just look super lovely in a hurry. You have to remember too that the pads are going to be exposing 75% of the surface area of the rotors every time you mash your foot into that pedal to avoid hitting pedestrians lost in their own little world or stray dogs or whatever anyway. I would sooner go for drilled and slotted rotors than worry about coated rotors, if that's an option for you. Helps to dissipate heat, with less likelihood of warpage over time. XYZAB fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 04:12
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Hope this is the right thread for this but was hoping someone could help me out. My Dad recently retired and I got a new job that gives me much more free time. He didn't get a chance to do a father-son car project with me growing up because of work (and please don't read that as a complaint, I'm incredibly grateful to have a great Dad who provided for us), but now we thought would be a great time to start! Our knowledge: My Dad loved driving sports cars back in the day, but his mechanical knowledge doesn't lie beyond basic car maintenance. I'm a huge racing fan, and have been studying engines as a hobby; read a lot of textbooks but haven't turned a lot of wrenches. Do basic maintenance on my car but thats it. We're both particularly interested in engines, and would love to assemble one together, or rebuild one. We've been looking at junkyards for engines to rebuild or repair, but were too inexperienced to look at an engine and know if wed be able to repair/rebuild it! I was wondering if I could get some help on what would be a good project for us. Should we keep looking at junkyards for something to rebuild? Can you buy engines unassembled and assemble them yourself? (We've both built those Toyan V8 mini engines but theyre more for learning/novelty). Is there a specific engine great for hand-tools or begginers we should look for? Is all this a dumb idea, and if it is, any ideas for a similar project to replace it? We have all the basic tools and an empty garage, a stand, and a friend whose happy to lend us his hoist, and we have pickup trucks for transporting. We were looking to spend $500-$1k on the engine but thats flexible. Kvlt! fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 10:20
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Ah took me a few mins to find it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1MyjPxQAAU Thinking about a little engine project myself but not sure what to grab. Something I may need years down the line or something in-demand enough to sell
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Jan 7, 2024 13:31
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Kvlt! posted:Hope this is the right thread for this but was hoping someone could help me out. I won't make specific recommendations but every bit of this was my exact scenario and would highly recommend getting in way over your head with a project that needs everything. It takes up all our free time, requires a ton of learning and new tools and is all around great. My dad and I spend tons of time together and always have things to chat about, which wasn't really the case back in the day. I'd vote more for a whole vehicle than just an engine, but you do you. Unless you're going to finish and just have an engine on a stand, one probably leads to another anyways.
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Jan 7, 2024 15:08
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Kvlt! posted:Hope this is the right thread for this but was hoping someone could help me out. First thing I’d do is to get a small engine and disassemble it together. It’ll familiarize you both so you’ll be more comfortable. After that, get a small flathead engine from something in a salvage yard and disassemble/reassemble that. Then move on to an overhead cam/valve engine.
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Jan 7, 2024 16:12
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