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I've got one of these that I've used several times without fail to jump a dead Bronco https://no.co/gb40
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Jan 10, 2020 04:26
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A bit of a stretch question here: has anyone ever bought out a lease and then turned around and sold it to a third party and avoided paying sales tax on the lease buyout, in California? My understanding is that if you sell the car within 10 days of the buyout, it's considered for resale and that you therefore don't need to pay sales tax on the lease buyout, but the lessor payoff quote doesn't really give the option of not paying the tax with the buyout. I thought I'd just avoid the whole thing by just selling directly to a dealer and having them pay off the lease, but their payoff quote is about $1500 more than mine, so I'm not going to go that route, and it'd be nice to save another few hundred bucks. If it's not possible or I've been misled, then it's not a big deal, but figured I'd give it a shot.
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Jan 22, 2020 20:49
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Around 2014 or 2015, I was on a business trip to Kansas City; for whatever reason it was no more expensive to get a mustang from Hertz at the airport than a compact, so we asked for one. Bright orange, stick, V6. Surprised the hell out of me but it was a pleasant surprise.
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Feb 26, 2020 16:36
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Recommendations for a jack and jack stands? Primarily for occasional use swapping winter/summer wheels, potentially other relatively simple things like brake work, etc. I have an RS4 and an F150. Is this one of the things that harbor freight is good for? If so, which line? What capacity should I be looking at?
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Apr 9, 2020 01:21
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I have no idea how TPMS works, and have never had a car with TPMS and multiple sets of wheels. Is there any possibility of interference? I got a car used with winter tires and wheels on it in January and it started throwing TPMS warnings this winter every once in a while; I just swapped the wheels over last weekend and driving it everything seemed to be fine until the moment I pulled into the garage, when I got a warning again. The extra set of wheels is naturally in the garage right next to where the car is parked. Is there any possibility of this being an issue, or is something else likely going on?
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May 27, 2020 04:47
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Charles posted:There are some cars that use wireless sensors. What kind of car is it though, please. Sorry, obvious useful info. 2008 RS4
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May 27, 2020 06:56
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taqueso posted:I've been shopping TPMS sensors and most claim to stay turned off until moved. Did you happen to move the tires around for some reason before the problem happened? I suppose some might come on occasionally for some reason, but that seems like a bad design decision. I bought the car with both sets of wheels/tires from the PO. When I went to the bay area to pick it up, I asked him to put the winters on because there was snow in the forecast for the drive home to the mountains. He did, we threw the summers into the truck and they sat in our garage right next to the car for the winter until I swapped them this past weekend. Have had the TPMS warning intermittently with both the summers and winters. I did no pairing or any electronic anything whatsoever when I swapped them, or at any point previous, just physically changing the wheels.
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May 28, 2020 04:35
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I've got a 2014 F150 4x4, ecoboost. Right at 60k miles, need to change the oil, and figured I should make sure other 60k service interval stuff gets done. Contacted a local shop, who sent back a scope of work + estimate that came to ~$1100 ($650 labor $450 parts) to do the expected stuff (check/inspect a bunch of poo poo, replace oil, oil filter, air filter, rotate tires. It also included changing transmission, front and rear differential, and transfer case fluid. The labor estimate isn't broken down but those fluid changes account for $350 of the parts cost. The Ford manual says these services are at 150k, not 60k; pretty big difference. Is this a case where I should be proactive and do the maintenance despite what Ford says, or are they just trying to get more money? If it's "eh you don't need to but it's not unreasonable" then I'll probably say thanks but no thanks on the trans/diff/transfer case fluid but have them do the rest, but if it's just totally unnecessary then I will probably take it elsewhere or do the oil change, filter changes, and tire rotation myself.
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Jan 27, 2022 20:38
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What are the potential reasons I should not buy a 2008 Cayenne S for $4k aside from the obvious/probable “needs new engine”/“doesn’t run”? Don’t know anything else about it at the moment, just saw it for sale on the side of the road on the way into town and didn’t have time to stop, but $4k is well within impulse buy / bad idea / toy range for me right now. I’ll stop on the way back home to get more info but figured some background up front about specifics to look out for would be good
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Jun 9, 2022 20:31
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Motronic posted:I took the needing a new engine as sarcasm/if it does it's a definite do not buy, not as the known condition of the vehicle he's talking about. Yes, that was like, I know _some_ things about cars, have a project car currently, etc. That was my "short message while mountain biking" way not of saying "poo poo I need a cheap car here's one for $4k is this a good idea", but rather "hey this might be a fun adventure in car ownership, what are the specific things with this model I should be looking out for?" Or alternatively just a Motronic bat signal because I knew he would have thoughts. I'm not on a limited budget, not looking for a cheap reliable vehicle.
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Jun 9, 2022 22:18
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Motronic posted:I think you should look at it, pick up the floor in the back and find the full option sticker (where the spare tire is) and take a picture to sort out what's supposed to be on this thing. Check for MFD stuff. Bring a code reader and use it. If it passes a sniff test get a PPI. Thanks, will do. I've texted the guy after taking a peek at the outside of it. Has 88k miles, and he'd stuck some estimates from a local shop I trust (same place that I have do work on my RS4) on the dash for fuel pump replacement and thermostat replacement. Assuming from what he's asking that it's work it needs, not work that's been done. Thermostat invoice clearly indicated the thermostat had failed, assuming but not positive the fuel pump(s) have already failed. We'll see what shakes out.
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Jun 9, 2022 23:09
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Well, I'll probably swing over there later today to take a look at it. Seems the owner had some personal poo poo going on right when it needed some maintenance late last year and couldn't manage it, hence the price. They don't live here anymore and left the car and title with a friend of theirs. Working on arranging a PPI but in the meantime getting inside it to poke around will be good. Fully anticipating this would be a project, and if I actually follow through I promise I'll start a project thread or just throw content into the firebird thread I've already got going. I don't know if there's a better VIN decoder for these but vinanalytics.com leads me to believe it does not have any of the drivetrain/suspension options (PDCC, offroad package/locking diff, or air suspension). It does have a trailer hitch (which was obvious) and a moon roof, and then a handful of interior/comfort options, but will check all that in person.
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Jun 10, 2022 17:54
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Hadlock posted:In the last 7 days link please
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Jul 6, 2022 16:16
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Looking for some tips when buying a used car private party from out of state. I've been looking for a particular car in good condition with relatively uncommon options, found one in good shape and low miles with everything I'm looking for (on Autotrader), but it's in Wisconsin and I'm in California. I've had a PPI done and negotiated a mutually agreeable price with the seller, and feel fine enough at this point without seeing the car personally about risk of unseen issues. So now at this point I've got a logistics issue: I'd rather not fly out there and drive it back, partially because of the hassle of getting there as it's not terribly close to a major airport and flights from here to there suck to begin with, partially because I'd rather not take that time off work or away from family, and partially because it is due for timing belt replacement, and I'd rather not risk that being an issue in the ~2000 mile drive home (it's, like, 85k miles and should be done at 80, which doesn't seem terrible? but it's also a 2005 MY and a 17 year old timing belt doesn't seem great?). The main question is: what do folks recommend for exchanging money / title / etc when shipping a car long distance that is reasonably safe and comfortable for both buyer and seller? I've suggested using escrow.com but the seller is concerned about negative reviews where sellers haven't gotten their money a month+ after the transaction. He suggested wiring him money and he overnights the title, but I have concerns about that for probably obvious reasons.
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Jul 20, 2022 15:30
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Hadlock posted:There's actually a thread dedicated to this Would you mind sharing a link to it?
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Jul 20, 2022 21:10
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Thanks for the input. I'm thinking at this point I'll make sure he emails me a bill of sale first, along with perhaps a scan of the title or some other thing that reasonably proves he is who he says he is and actually owns the car (I know he _has_ the car since he took it to the shop for the PPI appointment I booked, but I don't know that the contact info I have for him is _him_ and he actually can sign it over to me. Then I'll wire and have him send the title, and I'll arrange shipping. It'll be $$ and arguably not worth it but gently caress it, all in it won't be all that much money. Just don't want to be screwed out of the whole sum by getting scammed.
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Jul 21, 2022 01:47
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Hadlock posted:Mildly curious what happened to that cayenne SUV you found on the side of the road Haha, it's still on the side of the road. I chatted further with the local shop (that I trust, have been having them do work on our RS4 for a few years now) and they knew the history and story with that particular one and warned me off it (tl;dr is that the seller worked for a wealthy family in the area who sold it to her cheap, or maybe even gave it to her, and she didn't know what she was getting into). The issues they'd already identified would have been $4500 to fix, let alone any others that cropped up after dealing with those, and I decided I don't have time/appetite for an additional DIY project on top of the Firebird. But he did help convince me to look for a first gen Touareg instead, which is what we're looking to buy here, found one with low miles, in good shape and with a locking rear diff.
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Jul 21, 2022 03:15
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Holy gently caress do not buy a rust-belt SUV and ship it to where cars aren’t rusty. That’s a world of pain. A good callout, but I'm not worried about it, because there's additional context I didn't share. It's in Wisconsin now, but the vast majority of time and mileage was spent in Nevada and only more recently was moved to Wisconsin where it lived in an airplane hangar so the owner (who still lived in Nevada) could use it when she visited a few weeks a year. I had a PPI done, the shop sent me a lot of photos, it's pretty rust free.
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Jul 21, 2022 19:26
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About a year ago, I had a shop replace the brakes (pads, rotors) on my F150 (2014). Monday, my wife came home and said there was a scraping/grinding noise coming from the front right wheel. I jacked it up, spun the front left wheel freely, front right was binding. Took the wheel off and saw that the outer pad was pretty much toast (completely gone where it touches the outside edge of the rotor, and about 3mm on the inside). Inner pad looked almost brand new, roughly 10mm thick. The outermost ~8mm or so of the rotor is pretty gouged up. I did some quick research to see if there are common issues causing this, and found some indication that this can happen if the outer and inner brake pads, which are different, are installed in the wrong place. Specifically, if the inner brake pad, which has ears on it, is installed on the outside, it can wear prematurely. I took a look, the inner pad on the right had ears, so installed in the right place. I couldn't see the outer pads clearly without removing them, which I didn't have time to do. I took the left wheel off, and saw that the inner pad on that side didn't have ears, and then prodded a bit with a punch where I think the wrong pad was installed on the right side and 90% sure I could feel the ear there. So I'm pretty sure they installed the pads wrong (both outer pads on the left side, both inner pads on the right side), and it seems likely that that has caused premature severe wear of that pad, and the rotor damage. ~8300 miles on the truck since the brake job was done. My questions: - I'm in for a full front pad + rotor replacement, right? - Is it reasonable to ask the shop to do something to make this right? I'm inclined to trust them less, now, of course, but at the same time it's not like a brake replacement job is that difficult or that likely to gently caress up a second time.
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Apr 12, 2023 20:54
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STR posted:1. You are. I've actually become more convinced that incorrect pad installation did cause this. There are _tons_ of reports, easy to find with a web search for f150 uneven brake pad wear, that installing the pads wrong causes this. Here's a video that clearly shows the difference in pads and how installing the inner pad on the outside causes issues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXGcgUezqlY&t=98s I've confirmed for sure that they are installed wrong. Right side:  Left side:  Note the right side has only two nipples on it, and the left has four. The ears on the inner pad cause clearance problems on the caliper, apparently, causing it to seat incorrectly (and, in some cases, not mine apparently presumably due to my after market wheels having more clearance, rub on the wheel), which explains why the worn pad is itself not evenly worn. See the difference here in the positioning of the pad vs the caliper   edit: just gave them a call, the woman I talked to knew that the inner and outer pads on these trucks are different and was surprised that they would have made that mistake. She did not question that being a cause of the premature and uneven wear. I'm going to bring it in to them tomorrow and see what they say. Steve French fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 23:00
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honda whisperer posted:Shops and specifically their techs will make mistakes. If they make it right no charge then they're a good shop. If they don't or won't you're probably an honest Google review with pics away from them calling you right back. Yep, that's in line with how I feel about it. I'm not upset at them for the mistake; how they respond to it will determine how I deal with them (if at all) in the future.
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Apr 12, 2023 23:26
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Steve French posted:Yep, that's in line with how I feel about it. I'm not upset at them for the mistake; how they respond to it will determine how I deal with them (if at all) in the future. Replaced front rotors and pads at no charge.
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Apr 15, 2023 16:53
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nitrogen posted:Any recommendations for a front license plate frame that won't get chewed up in a car wash? Here's a stupid (honest) question: what purpose does the license plate frame serve, for you?
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Apr 17, 2023 14:52
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PainterofCrap posted:Maybe he/she is in New Jersey or some other state that requires front tags. I’ve had plenty of cars with front plates and never felt a desire to have a plate frame… aesthetically no frame seems cleaner to me personally so I’m wondering if there’s a practical reason not occurring to me or if it’s just taste.
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Apr 17, 2023 18:58
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My in-laws got their son’s Impreza’s tires replaced at Costco. They made a big deal out of being filled with nitrogen. The car sat a while and the tires went flat. They let it sit there with flat tires for months because they didn’t have a way to top it off with nitrogen. Marketing works? gently caress.
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Jul 2, 2023 22:09
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:The trolling motor in my boat has 2 - 12 volt batteries. When I hit the "charge indicator" button on the motor it shows only about "half". To clarify a bit: when you say “if I put a volt meter on each”, if you mean you’ve got access to the battery terminals and you’d be putting the volt meter on the terminal pairs on each battery to measure the voltage, then how they are wired doesn’t matter: it should be 12 on the terminals.
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Aug 1, 2023 03:54
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Looking for car shipment advice for some friends. They’re moving from Oakland to San Diego, and have a restored 1970 GTO she recently inherited from her father. They’re not terribly car savvy (initially she thought she would just rent a trailer and tow it herself with their Model Y…) Fortunately it seems they’ve thought better of that and are looking for better options for shipping the car. They knew I’d had a car shipped across the country and asked me; I used Amerifreight and had no problems and it was affordable ($1300 for a much longer trip), but I figured I’d ask if anyone had particular advice for moving a significantly more special car than what I’d had shipped. I’d like to encourage them not to skimp here and do what they can to make sure it makes the trip unscathed: new employer down there is covering a pretty high number of dollars of moving costs and I imagine it’s likely that any extra money spent on the car shipping won’t come out of their pockets.
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Sep 3, 2023 17:13
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Cactus Ghost posted:help, i have a gorgeous old car and i need to get it through some of the most gorgeous scenery on earth, who can i pay to make this problem go away They’ve got other cars and also a whole house load of poo poo to move also. They’re gonna either have to pay someone to ship one of the cars or fly back and make multiple trips. I’d certainly be tempted to drive it down myself if I were in their situation and take the scenic route, but even that would mean either one of them enjoys that solo, or they ship two cars, or they make two trips back, etc. IMO not an unreasonable ask.
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Sep 3, 2023 18:34
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I had to teach my wife that it was perfectly fine to rev our car past 7k before shifting and I encouraged doing so regularly
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Oct 17, 2023 02:15
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Dr. Lunchables posted:You got some NA VTEC Honda? RS4. I’ll have to walnut blast it again at some point but in the meantime why not enjoy the high revs and push it off a bit?
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Oct 17, 2023 02:30
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Lake Powell, please. It needs your help, via batteries
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Nov 12, 2023 04:05
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Are there good ways of figuring out wheel offset for a car you don’t have yet? Have ordered a vehicle that I’m expecting this winter and want to order another set of wheels to have ready with snow tires when it comes, but my usual go-to Tirerack shows wheel options that have offsets all over the place and I don’t want to get something way off of stock
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Dec 2, 2023 20:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think this varies by rental company. I haven't rented from Hertz in two decades (gently caress Hertz, for many reasons) so I don't know how they operate these days. Avis just picked a car and handed me a key, but this was a shithole off-airport location. I do most of my airport rentals via National, where you can rent their "emerald aisle" and they have a selection of cars sitting in a section of their lot with keys in them, you take your pick and drive off. It usually is within a dollar of the cheapest possible compact option, and you get much better choices. Over the years I've had an Accord, a Charger, a Tucson, an Ecoboost Fusion, and a Cherokee Trailhawk, among others. None of them were poverty-trim shitboxes either. I took a trip to Golden, BC last year and did emerald aisle at the Calgary airport. Nabbed an AWD plugin hybrid X3 with snow tires. I love that poo poo
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Dec 21, 2023 06:03
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I've got a frustration situation. Took delivery of a new car, in Nevada, December 23rd. I live in California, and the routine here when buying a new car out of state is that you go to the DMV, pay registration fees (including any difference in sales tax), then get the new car smogged, send all the paperwork back to the dealer, they then send more paperwork back to the CA DMV to wrap things up and you get plates etc. In the meantime, the DMV gives you temporary registration good for a few months. Mine's good until March 3rd. The problem: after about 1000 miles and a month or so, emissions monitors were finally ready for a test. Before I could get it in for a smog check the next day, it _also_ popped a check engine light, so there goes the smog check. P138C (issue with charge air cooler bypass position sensor). It seemed from searching around that it might be an intermittent or just new-car problem, and I had time, so I just reset the codes and tried again. Nearly 1000 miles later, the code was pending again, and monitors still not ready. So I scheduled a dealer appointment to have them look at it. Code popped again yesterday, appointment is today. And I've now got two weeks before I need to have it registered fully. This is a probably pretty uncommon situation, with across state lines purchasing and a new car not ready for smog, but hoping _someone_ has some clues here about what I can do here. I'm concerned that the dealer won't fix it properly fast enough, and even if they do, that codes will be cleared and I'll be back to square one getting ready for smog, and if that takes 1000 miles again it's just not gonna happen without me really going out of my way in the next two weeks. What the gently caress happens if I get past that time and I can't legally drive the car because it hasn't passed smog but I can't get it to pass smog without driving it a fuckload? What recourse do I have with the dealer/manufacturer here? The car's been otherwise great (well, aside from the infuriatingly inconsistent carplay connection). As an aside, I'm already pissed at the dealer service department; I live a decent drive away from the dealer, so it's kind of a pain to get home afterwards, and this is also my primary winter family vehicle (and a big storm is coming next week) and when I called to schedule the appointment last weekend I asked for a loaner (explaining both the time sensitive situation and the challenges with not getting one), the person I spoke with said they'd need a manager to determine that and they'd have them give me a call back on Monday. Call never came. I called earlier this week and got no response. I called again yesterday morning, was told they'd find the manager responsible and call me back. Much later in the day, finally got that call back and was informed that they couldn't give me a loaner today, would I like to reschedule? I don't have time to reschedule.
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Feb 16, 2024 16:26
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Nope, but perhaps the dealer will be able to tell me that. FWIW I’ve been doing as much of different driving as I can (lots of highway, stop and go, fast and slow acceleration, etc)
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Feb 16, 2024 17:03
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I agree that it shouldn’t but it also appears to be very common for this engine (3.0 duramax), and the dealer gave a heads up in advance when we bought it that it normally takes a long time (1000+ miles). Either way, the CEL is the bigger problem
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Feb 16, 2024 17:37
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wesleywillis posted:Is this a brand new car? Why the poo poo does CA want to have a brand new car smogged? As mentioned by Krakkles, because it came from out of state. Yes, it's 50 state legal; have already gotten VIN verification and whatnot done at the DMV. Had to do the same thing when I bought a new superduty, except with that I also had to provide a weight certificate. Safety Dance posted:What sort of car is it? 2024 Yukon w/ 3.0 duramax. Krakkles posted:Hard agree on "it doesn't take 1000 miles to set readiness monitors", and if the dealership is saying it does, I'd stop trusting them. I do live at altitude, though not that high (6k ft). I certainly would have assumed something was wrong with the car if it took this long for monitors to be ready if I hadn't been warned about it; and of course obviously there is something wrong with the vehicle that might be related to the monitors not being ready. To be clear, with this dealership, this is my first service interaction with them and we're starting from scratch in terms of trust, here, so they haven't earned it yet for it to be lost. The idea that smog readiness takes a while on these seemed verifiable from searching around, though so did other folks with emissions/CEL issues after a few thousand miles, so maybe it's just that there's a lot with problems causing it to take a long time. When I dropped it off this morning and mentioned to one of the service guys that I drove it 1k miles before it was ready the first time he said it usually takes a little longer than that for these. Maybe this isn't working as designed, but is a common issue. At any rate, what I was looking for was less "how do I get this to be ready for smog sooner" but more: wtf do I do in the event that it's not ready for smog before my temp registration expires (which might happen even if I can get it ready for smog much more quickly, because I don't know how long it'll be at the dealer, and I've only got two weeks). One of the service advisors said I'd be fine since I have the work order now showing it's being worked on (supposedly a probable EGR issue), but of course I don't trust that very far. I at least got them to dig up a loaner for me (one that hadn't been cleaned, and I didn't care to wait for them to clean it).
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Feb 16, 2024 20:58
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Steve French posted:I've got a frustration situation. Took delivery of a new car, in Nevada, December 23rd. I live in California, and the routine here when buying a new car out of state is that you go to the DMV, pay registration fees (including any difference in sales tax), then get the new car smogged, send all the paperwork back to the dealer, they then send more paperwork back to the CA DMV to wrap things up and you get plates etc. In the meantime, the DMV gives you temporary registration good for a few months. Mine's good until March 3rd. Fun update on this. When I brought it in, they said they found the problem: bad EGT sensor. Replaced it. I went to the DMV to talk to them about it, they were super chill and gave me a month extension. Tried to give me two but said the system wouldn’t let them. In and out in 7 minutes (pro tip: go during a blizzard…???) After another 1500 miles, monitors still weren’t ready and the same code was pending. Brought it to the local smog place just to see what they had to say about it, suggested driving it more aggressively based on what their scanners said. Code popped, CEL, less than a mile into my return trip home. Brought it back to the dealer this morning, had to gripe again to get a loaner (“we don’t have any available” “okay can you rent me something? I need to get home” “let me talk to a manager…oh you know what it just so happens we got one back late last night so you can have that. A few hours later they called back and said they diagnosed it: a software issue they’ve seen on a few others. GM has no fix for it, and no ETA for a fix. I can go pick it up now, and keep driving it, there’s “no driveability concerns”. Except for the detail of getting it titled and registered. In the meantime I went to the DMV again, and got another renewal. This time until the end of May. The clerk seemed surprised that my lender hadn’t hassled me about it, as they don’t like it when they don’t get titles to the vehicles they have loans for. So that’s something to look forward to. Anyway I’m okay for a little bit here but escalating through GMC proper, and will be thoroughly researching lemon laws.
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Apr 2, 2024 22:18
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AFewBricksShy posted:2014 F150. Hi, former 2014 F150 owner here. I had this happen with one of my rear doors. The issue for me, which I gather is common, was the wiring between the door and the door frame. A bit of a pain, but I’d take off the boot and all the poo poo around the wires and have a look. 
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Apr 24, 2024 14:23
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I’ve got some random old car parts taking up space in my garage and shed that I’ve got no use for, but others might (like stuff that was replaced by upgrades but could still be used). I’d feel bad just trashing it but also don’t think it is worth my time to try to sell; I care more that they might not go to waste than I do about getting any money for them. Any suggestions?
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Apr 27, 2024 21:14
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