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Paradoxish posted:So, a friend backed into my car and did some very minor paint damage. I'm not interested in going through insurance or getting any money from her or anything, but I would like to fix this as best as possible. Flo Cytometer posted:Yeah, sand it down. Get your paint matched at DrColorChip.com. Depending on what you have/use, you may want to (re)apply clearcoat. Don't sand it. Each step of removal you do, the spot becomes significantly larger. Get a Magic Eraser, wet it and use it on the spot, a lot of the rubbing will probably disappear. Then take a picture and let's see from there.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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Paradoxish posted:Thanks for the advice, guys. I hit that section up with a Magic Eraser this morning. It cleaned it up a bit, but the paint is still obviously raised/curling where the damage is: quote:Here's the slightly more serous damage on the opposite side of the wheel well: The black mark looks like the base plastic, under the clear and under the paint. It needs touched up. Dr. Colorchip would work very well. It'd take a half-dozen light coats over a week or two to build it back, but you can make it barely noticable. Before you do that, though, use a random orbit buffer and some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and it'll remove almost all of the scuff marks on that side. Once you're done with the polishing, then touch up the chip and consider yourself lucky it was that easy to address!
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Jul 11, 2015 19:33
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Jeff Gerber posted:The last one is near the end of the stud and spins freely but will not unthread all of the way. The exposed threads on the stud look fine, and the stud does not move nor is the nut rounded off. Switch to a hand wrench and try to put some leverage behind the lug with a screwdriver. Just a little change in angle will hopefully let the lug come the rest of the way off.
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Jul 12, 2015 16:54
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:That sounded more like a carb issue than a spark issue based on the description to me as well. That was my thought as I read it, too.
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Jul 13, 2015 14:10
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Slavvy posted:All 'true' crowns (so not rebadged lexii) were RHD AFAIK. Funny topic, I just saw my first Crown last week (not in the US, though):  
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Jul 18, 2015 02:08
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Tool chat -- I just got a jointer with a table that has some rust on it. It's superficial rust, most of it goes away with a quick sanding sponge, but it'll need a bit more to get it back to perfect condition. What's the best way to do that? Flapper wheel on a drill? Hand doing it with a sponge? Something else?
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Jul 21, 2015 20:02
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Looking at a 2004 Suburban with a dead gauge cluster. Any way to find the actual mileage without a Tech2?
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Sep 30, 2015 13:04
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Any maintenance to be done on an '04 4WD GMC Envoy universal joints?
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Dec 21, 2015 20:36
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Nissan Quest, obviously.
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Dec 22, 2015 22:52
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2004 GMC Envoy w/ 4.3l I6 -- How much should the tensioner arm/pulley be moving? I don't have a problem with the belt-driven accessories, but the tensioner arm bounces a good 3/4" all the time. I've never seen more than a tiny bit of deflection in normal operation from any of my other cars with a similar tensioner design... should I be concerned?
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Jan 19, 2016 01:50
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Christobevii3 posted:4.0L Sorta slow, worse gas mileage, last forever Unless you run into timing chain issues, then crush the thing.
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Jun 11, 2016 01:36
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2000 Toyota Avalon. It's been warm here lately (high 80's/low 90's) and the car has been fine off the line and in upper RPM, but very flat in the middle of the rev range. It is cooler today, ~65* and it pulled well all through the rev range. No lights or errors, nothing showing wrt variable valve timing issues. What could the problem be (other than it's a 2000 Avalon)?
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Jul 25, 2017 17:31
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MrOnBicycle posted:Oh god I'm seriously considering buying a $1300 '94 LS400 with 180k miles that has emissions problems. It's a really bad idea, isn't it? No. That's one of the most ridiculously overbuilt cars in the history of ever. 180k is low mileage. Change the timing belt and drive it until time ends. Question: 2011 Nissan Juke / 74k miles / CVT. Speed-dependant noise from the front. I have been watching it for a while and assumed a wheel bearing. I jacked it up today to actually diagnose and I'm a bit stumped. All 4 wheels seem to spin fine. Backs are freewheeling. Fronts are attached to the transmission, so they spin, but with some mechanical drag. No play or noise of a wheel bearing that I noticed (note I didn't take the wheels off, just spinning them with wheels in the air). Checked transmission and it was a bit over-full. Drained a bit out and no difference at all. Noise particularly noticable at about 60mph. Noise does not change putting transmission in neutral at speed. Noise does change/diminish when turning right. Again, to me that indicates wheel bearing on the left side, which is where the noise seems to be coming from. Is there anything else it could be, or should I just throw a bearing at it to see what it does? (Bearing is a pain in the rear end, the whole front suspension needs to come apart for that side.)
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Jul 15, 2018 20:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:The bad wheel bearing on my MS3 had no symptoms other than noise while driving. No extra play, no clicking or growling when spinning, but loud as hell when driving down the road. Fingers crossed. Got one coming this week.
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Jul 16, 2018 00:42
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Hey you GMT800 guys -- now that I'm driving the '05 Escalade again, I'm looking at fixing the problem where a strong diagonal bump will make the whole front of the truck feel like it's falling off. I've seen a lot of references to the steering intermediate shaft and the steering column bearing. I just took one side of the intermediate shaft off and it is tight, both rotationally and in/out. The steering column bearing definitely has some play in it, but it is already the green version. From what I've seen, the white one is the original and the green is the updated replacement. Does the green version go bad, too? As far as I know it's original, when did they start putting the green ones in? Edit: God drat, I love stupid trucks. Found a zip tie fix for the column bushing... it definitely tightened it up a bit, now I have to drive it some to see if it's a fix, but this is the anti-BMW. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Apr 13, 2019 |
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Apr 13, 2019 15:21
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More GMT800 questions -- 2005 Escalade. There has always been a tremendous shudder when hitting big diagonal expansion joints/bumps/etc. The suspension itself is fine, everything is tight and operates normally in all conditions... except that diagonal joint. In that case, it feels like the whole front of the truck is going to come off. But then, everything is fine again, nice and smooth. I saw that steering shaft issues were common, so I swapped out the bearing and intermediate shaft. That improved the steering a ton, but did nothing for this huge shudder. It feels like some main front end body mount or something... is this a common issue? I can't find anyone talking about the same problem, but I'm sure I"\'m just looking in the wrong place...
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Apr 18, 2019 21:09
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StormDrain posted:Could it be related to the sway bar? Considering how a diagonal bump affects one wheel at a time on opposite sides rather than both at once. No, it's not any type of suspension noise, it's an impact you feel like you've been in an accident. That's not hyperbolic, it hits that hard... and it only happens maybe twice in 100 miles of freeway driving, but man, that rattles you when you're driving. Vehicle history is clean, never wrecked, never any major repairs, most suspension components are original, but the transmission guy was raving about how good everything is underneath... it's a weird one, but those are the types of problems that gravitate to me. 
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Apr 19, 2019 16:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:Control arm bushings? Could be this, it only happens when the front end gets unloaded and shaken. Wheel bearings are fine... I'll look into the control arm bushings...
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Apr 19, 2019 18:35
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Back on the 2005 Escalade -- I got it back from the transmission guy a few weeks ago and it's shifting fine with a couple new solenoids. That's great. However, it's been randomly no-starting. It started right after I got it back, so I figured the shift cable needed to be adjusted, but then it worked for a couple weeks. Then it started doing it more frequently. Transmission selector shows the right gear on the dash, strong "click" from the solenoid when turning the key in park or neutral. But nothing else. It has fully refused to start since Saturday. I jumpered the negative battery terminal to the block to make sure there wasn't a ground problem. Battery is new and strong. At this point, with the solenoid giving a loud click, I've got a new starter on the way. In looking at it, I can see an "Ultima" tag on the starter, so someone's replaced it with a reman before (not mentioned to me, I bought it 3 years ago with 98k miles). I'm thinking it's just the starter that needs to be replaced... am I missing anything else?
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Apr 29, 2019 12:45
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Chunjee posted:My neighbor had some starting issues with his Cadillac this weekend. It seems to be the amp draining the battery, but my first thought was the security system engaging in some fashion. My understanding is that GM starter interrupt issues will result in symptoms similar to what you are experiencing. Any security lights flashing? I don't think it's the case, from what I can tell... the starter only has 2 wires going to it (and the solenoid, they're one unit), so if the solenoid is clicking, I think that should be the only signal it gets to engage the starter...? Also, the passkey light on the dash goes out with the rest of the lights.
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Apr 29, 2019 14:31
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Colostomy Bag posted:I wouldn't rule out the battery even if it is young. I think I've got a spare battery I can jumper to, I'll try that. Chunjee posted:You can test your starter by jumping 12V directly to one of those lines. In addition if the line is corroded or not holding under load, I'd expect a click and no action. I haven't looked at the wiring enough to know what goes where, the wires to the solenoid are inaccessible without removing the starter first. Another complication is that I have it pulled into the garage, with no way to move it... the driveway has a steep slope, so if I move it back, there's no way to get it back into the garage... so space is tight. Edit: Since it's a reman'd starter that's over 3 years old, should that be a flag? I've never had luck, or heard of luck, with reman'd electrical stuff. Edit2: Also on my troubleshooting list was swapping the starter relay. I did that with no change in operation. Edit3: I tried to jump it and tried to start it with a 50amp booster, no change, just a strong solenoid click. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Apr 29, 2019 |
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Apr 29, 2019 15:07
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meatpimp posted:I think I've got a spare battery I can jumper to, I'll try that. Okay, riddle me this, boys: I tried to start it just for shits and grins a couple times today, running the gearshift up and down in between tries, etc. No change, just a strong single "click" from the solenoid. I just went to shut the garage door and saw that it had crept back a couple inches with me taking it out of park and putting it back in (even though I had my foot on the brake the whole time). So, I put it in neutral and pushed it up a couple inches. Put it back in park and... it started right up. It won't NOT start right now. So what the gently caress do I make out of that? I'm still leaning towards replacing the starter, but man, that's got me wondering about the transmission switch again. I guess I'll find out when I get under there. 
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Apr 30, 2019 00:44
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Deteriorata posted:The loud click means everything is fine up to the starter relay. It's getting power, the relay is closing. Either something is not allowing the circuit to the starter to close (transmission interlock switch) or the starter itself is bad. From what my friend said with his head in the engine compartment on both sides, the loud click is coming straight from the solenoid/starter. He said that pretty definitively. It's definitely a louder/stronger click than a relay engaging. The good news is that since it started, I was able to put it diagonally in the garage, so I'll at least have some space to work under it tomorrow. Is there multiple "steps" to the transmission interlock? It always shows the correct gear selection on the dash, and will only attempt to start/click when the transmission is in drive or neutral. Also, when I shift back into part, the doors unlock and I thought that was a tell that the bcm knows the transmission is in park? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Apr 30, 2019 |
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Apr 30, 2019 01:16
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Deteriorata posted:The loud click is probably the Bendix engaging, then. So power is getting into the starter itself, but it's not working. It seems likely there's a bad spot in the windings and it needs to be replaced. Moving the car turned the transmission shaft and flywheel just a teeny bit, so the next time the Bendix engaged it made the starter turn a little, which in turn put it on a good spot to get going. Next time it won't start, try tapping on the starter with a wrench and see if that gets it going. If it does, the starter is definitely going bad. Thanks. That's what I was thinking/hoping. Especially since I found out it was already a reman'd starter. We'll see tomorrow when I get into it.
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Apr 30, 2019 02:37
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:About a decade ago I remember seeing a car leather care site that seemed really legit. They had color-matched repair kits, general products, and also a leather air freshener you tie to the underside of your seat. Anyone know what I'm talking about? http://www.leatherique.com/
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Apr 30, 2019 23:02
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fridge corn posted:Carry out a drain test I'm so proud of you. <3
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May 3, 2019 21:36
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As I just posted in my thread -- 2006 VW Passat, working fine yesterday, today is a start-and-immobilizer-kill with a display of "Steering Column Lock Defective." Steering column lock is definitely not working. Looks like there are rando people selling a pair of microswitches and relays for the repair, but I haven't found an actual TSB or good DIY writeup. Do any of you VW guys have any thoughs? (Other than  )?
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Oct 29, 2019 23:30
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2017 Mazda 6 automatic, pushbutton start. Does anyone have info or experience with adding a remote start to something like this? Looks like there is an OEM option and some aftermarket. I have a friend that wants me to do it, but I don't know about current remote starts... last one I did was about 15 years ago, with about a dozen wire splices needed and it was a pain in the rear end.
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Nov 13, 2019 20:58
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Mourne posted:What are some excellent aftermarket floor mats for the front two seats of a 2016 Mazda CX-5? I live in PA, so the winters are bad. Also Husky Liners for significantly less money (in a lot of cases, but not for you  ), but virtually the same performance:https://www.huskyliners.com/WeatherBeater-Floor-Mats/2016/mazda/cx-5 meatpimp fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Nov 15, 2019 |
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Nov 15, 2019 19:12
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2005 Cadillac Escalade / GMT800. 108k miles. Well maintained. I noticed some looseness in the front end the past few months. Felt like I needed to grease the joints. I never got around to doing that. Lately, when I back out of my driveway with the wheel at full lock to the right, when I shift to drive and straighten the wheel, the left front wheel feels like it kinda "flops" back into place. When I first felt it, I would have sworn it was low tire pressure, that's exactly what it feels like. But tire pressures are fine. It's cold and I'm lazy. Weak google search doesn't show a common problem, so what's the thoughts on what I'm looking at? Simple as tie rod ends, or something stupid like ball joints that require control arm replacement?
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Dec 13, 2019 13:35
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REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:It doesn’t seem like financing gets you any additional considerations though, does it? I ran into the same thing with dealers when I was looking this summer. Something has changed in their basic operation, now they only move a couple hundred off of the advertised price, and it's really ridiculous in some cases. But whatever, if it works for them... kinda seems like there's a larger price-fixing issue going on, but I ended up buying private and found a MUCH better car than I was initially looking for. With no drama bullshit. I had negotiated prices with a couple different dealers, always specifying "bottom line" or "out the door" offers, only to have them add $400-800 for bullshit "fees" that they were legally obligated to charge. Narrator: "They aren't." And financing is dependent on the deal they offer. Sometimes the offers they have can make a real difference and you can pay it off at the first pay cycle. But that hinges on your credit to some degree.
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Dec 17, 2019 00:24
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simplefish posted:If you can't tell I'm Bad At Cars, swapping the O2 sensor and cleaning the VVT filter screens is the most advanced maintenance I've done on my own. This is all new territory to me. I can't help with your issue, but don't undersell yourself. O2 sensors and VVT filters are more than 90% of people will ever even attempt. The more you do, the more you learn. The more you learn, the more comfortable you become. It's a journey and you're ahead of the curve.
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Dec 18, 2019 13:25
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wesleywillis posted:2009 corolla with rear disc brakes (2.4l engine). Rotors, especially solid rotors, are just slugs of steel with little to differentiate expensive from cheap. I shop by cheapest coated I can find and have never been surprised... either good or bad. They just spin and get clamped on. Used everything from Centric to Bosch to Brembo to Wagner to even more no-name. I have had very good luck shopping at Amazon's Warehouse for "used" rotors. They are almost always brand new, just in banged-up packaging. I've had a couple that you could tell were put on studs, but never used. Prices for them are extremely cheap. I get the part numbers from Rock Auto, then search the part number on Amazon. Edit: For instance https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Brake...a-search&sr=8-1 They have one coated rotor in the warehouse for FIVE DOLLARS like new (which means new), and the second you'd have to buy new, so $25, so $30 for a pair of rotors shipped if you have Prime. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jan 1, 2020 |
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Jan 1, 2020 23:23
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Stupid trailer questions -- I know some of you tow and stuff. I don't. But I've got a friend that has a boat on a ~20' EZ Loader trailer. It's a single axle trailer with no brakes or anything, basically a boat cart with lights. He blew each tire last year and each tire took out its composite fender, plus bent the poo poo out of the 3/8" steel steps. Picture below shows one of the steps. Questions: 1) What's the best way to straighten out those steps? I'm thinking clamp a 2x4 to it and leverage the poo poo out of it to bend it back? 2) The fenders had marker lights which also got trashed, and one of the taillights got taken out, too. So basically, it needs a full rewire. Wires are run inside the frame, but it's pretty straight, so I'm assuming I just use the existing wires to fish the replacement harness? Anything to watch for?
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May 18, 2020 14:03
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rdb posted:My trailer has steel light housings that get bent from time to time, I usually straighten them out with a sledge. For those I would try a jack. Brute force is the preferred method either way but be careful if the boat is still on the trailer. Good point with the boat on the trailer. I'll have him get it in the water, then wail on it with a big hammer. Side note: It's a 1998 trailer and EZ Loader is super responsive and helpful with finding the right parts, even thought their records don't go back that far.
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May 19, 2020 15:39
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meatpimp posted:2005 Cadillac Escalade / GMT800. 108k miles. Well maintained. Stupid question thread, stupid problem, stupid solution. This thing has a ton of serviceable joints. I think I greased like 13 at last count. Well, since I got it in 2016, I've missed two -- the lower ball joints. I checked above and below, but didn't see a fitting. I never looked on the back side. There's a fitting there. Probably well out of grease and probably allowed a lot of wear. But, I pumped 'er full and it seems to have made a significant difference. If this was the source of my problem all the while, I'll be pissed at myself, but happy to have finally found it.
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May 23, 2020 17:13
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wesleywillis posted:One gently caress of a giant vacuum leak? That was my thought. Air has to come in somewhere, and if the butterflies are shut, welp.
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May 25, 2020 13:50
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Colostomy Bag posted:How long/much elbow grease is there with the Sylvania? Very little. I'll n-th the Sylvania recommendation.
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May 26, 2020 17:22
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2000 Toyota Avalon -- my son's car, he's dragging rear end on getting his license, so it's sitting a lot. To keep up the battery, I got a 15W solar charger. Plugged it in and looks to be charging. However, now the car won't lock/arm the alarm. I can unplug the charger from the cigarette lighter and it'll lock and activate from the keyfob no problem. Plug it back in... no response to the "lock" button on the fob. I manually locked it and it's fine, but wtf?
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Jun 9, 2020 18:38
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StormDrain posted:Some kind of interference from pushing power thru the cigarette lighter vs. drawing power? If you clamp the charger to the battery does it have the same effects? I dunno, let me go see! Edit: With the solar cell spring clipped to the battery, everything functions as normal. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 18:47
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