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nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Godholio posted:

Any parts store like Autozone (unless you're in California) will check the codes for free. It's a 30 second process.

ok so I have to ask, why won't California Autozones do this?

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nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Safety Dance posted:

Confirmed.

Do you live in Not California? If so, go to an autoparts store and get them to read the check engine light codes for free. Report back.

You might want to invest in one of these things, and a smartphone app like torque or EngineLink as well.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
ok, what the hell is this button for?



in before "fart fan"

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
I need some information about car/ truck batteries.

I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado that I bought as a mobile ham radio truck/storm spotter vehicle. .

I need a new battery for it, as the one in there now is just starting to die.

it would be nice to have a battery that I can run the radio off of for a while without running the truck.

Now I was recommended this battery here
Optima Red Top Battery, Group Size 75/86, 720 CCA but I thought you weren't supposed to use deep cycle batteries as starter batteries?

With this actually be a good battery for what I need or is there another one that I should look at?

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Krakkles posted:

Red tops aren’t deep cycle. If I recall correctly, yellow and blue are.

I’ve been using a red top for 6 years and it hasn’t died despite my best efforts (I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve had to recharge it from <6v).

It’s definitely weaker than it was, but I’d still trust it for daily use.

Ohh.
Today I learned. Thank you. I thought all batteries that had that form factor were deep cycle.
Are Optimas ok in the heat? I live in North Texas where it gets pretty hot.
This is why I like asking stupid questions. I'll possibly do this.

cursedshitbox posted:

Grab a dual battery tray for a dmax. Run a deep cycle with your starter battery. Run an isolator and cut-out switch between the two. Power your radio accessories off of the deep cycle.
I'm personally not a fan of optimas. Interstate and yeet it.

IS there a good writeup on how to do this? I'm pretty handy, but I'm not sure why a battery setup for an Isuzu would be workable for a Silverado. I could just be totally ignorant and missing something though.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
Can anyone recommend a good brake flush kit for a single person to use to flush the brake lines by themselves?

I see plenty on Amazon but I'm worried about cheap Chinese crap and wonder what brands I should use?

Or if I should just forget the idea completely?

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Powershift posted:

consensus is pretty much the Motive power bleeder.

And it's an American made product! Excellent. Thank you very much everyone.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
Anyone know any body shops in the DFW area (preferably in the northeast corner around Plano) that would replace rusted out rocker panels? And only charge an arm?

The three body shops I have dealt with in the past all said they wouldn't do it. I'd rather not do it myself or cheap out on the plastic covers but if I can't find anyone that will do it for a reasonable price and that just might be the route I have to go.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

STR posted:

TBH that's gonna be hard to find; most body shops in DFW aren't used to rust.

What kind of car? My old mechanic might know of someone; he mostly worked in Lewisville, but he's up in Denton now, and I stay in touch with him. He has contacts all over DFW. I have a friend in Wylie that might have some suggestions too.

'06 Silverado 1500

In pretty good shape except for the rockers. If it's going to be such a crazy thing to get done, I will just put the plastic covers on instead

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

STR posted:

I'll ask around a bit.

If you do opt for covers, at least hit the rockers with rust converter first. And your cab corners look like they need attention too.

If nothing else, I'm going to throw a coat of Rust-Oleum rust-reformer on everything and then some Rust-Oleum red. I just need a day when it's not going to be super hot out and it's not going to rain.

Public safety Red almost but not quite matches.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Motronic posted:

No. Just no.

Hyundai did not change the physics of lead acid automotive batteries on or before 2003.



this is a good beginners explanation on how battery charging physics works.

Besides, if anyone managed to change the physics of automotive batteries it wouldn't have been Hyundai and it wouldn't have been in 2003 😉

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Blowjob Overtime posted:

My wife wants a remote start for her 2019 CX-5. Based on the options from an installer with a 5.0 star rating from over 200 reviews nearby, the options are 1,000 ft range, 3,000 ft range, or unlimited with $60/year subscription. They have a disclaimer that distances are based on ideal conditions with line of sight, but real-world my wife would be in a hospital trying to start her car up to ~1,000 ft away through block walls.

Does anyone have experience with how far the range is in real world applications vs. the marketing? It seems like 3,000 ft would be sufficient, but the incredibly optimistic advertised ranges on walkie-talkies makes me gunshy.

I am absolutely not a fan of aftermarket remote start kits especially on newer vehicles.

They have to be hacked up to hell in order to work properly, and a lot of times they can cause issues.

Newer vehicles have interesting security precautions which have to be bypassed or cut through in order to make something like this work usually.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Bloody posted:

Hello friends. I'm 3200 miles into a ~6500 mile road trip, and I think my truck (2008 Tundra, 5.7L V8, 141k miles) is developing some kinda issue. Or I noticed a vibration and am turning into a hypochondriac. When accelerating from 0, there's noticeable vibration (that I think is new...) from around 15-35mph. Roads here in upstate new york are mostly poo poo so it's tough to determine if its real/new or an existing Thing that only seems worse because of the roads. Either way, it goes away at higher speeds, is totally gone at highway speeds, and doesn't seem to be present when coasting. Any theories? Will I die before we make it home? Will we be stranded in whichever part of the middle of the country is most inconvenient?

Go to a tire shop and get the wheel balance checked.

Hopefully you just lost a wheel weight when hitting a pothole.

Hhopefully it's just that and not bent.

35mph is classic wheel balance issues.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
If you really want to go down a rabbit hole, watch a couple episodes of junkyard digs on YouTube

He basically does what you're doing.

If you find yourself needing to mess with the carburetor, he's also got a great video on carburetor basics which I refer to quite a bit

https://youtu.be/TPX6n-5ETxo

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

kastein posted:

9th gen F series is 92-96, it's gonna be a creaky old EEC-IV system not a carb.

My bad, this was me pretending to know Fords better than I did I guess and I got busted.

I still learned a lot from watching junkyard digs though.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

ryanrs posted:

How do OEMs splice wires to join 3+ terminals together? I want to use this TE relay/fuse box, which is based on the Deutsch GT sealed contact design. For various reasons, I don't want to use a relay box with built-in bus bars (and that wouldn't solve all my splices needs anyway).

I've seen bussed Deutsch connectors, but with a per-contact limit of 13A. I need a 5-way splice that can take at least 20A.

I feel like I'm missing some key component in these Single Wire Seal systems.


Just to be clear wrt the quality level I'm after, here is the hierarchy of vehicle wiring:
1) OEM.
2) Commercial vehicle.
3) Car audio.
4) Redneck.

I am looking for solutions in category 1, and maybe, grudgingly, category 2.

If I ripped apart the relay box and wiring harness of a 10 year old Toyota, what would I find?

If you're no good at soldering, use a Wago or a scotch lok.

Wago: HTCELLE Lever Wire Connectors,75 Pcs Wire Connector Assortment Pack Compact Splicing Connector Kit for Electrical Wires Solid Stranded Flexible Wires, 2 port, 3 port, 5 port https://a.co/d/b9KFfq2

Scotch lock: 3 M S UR Scotchlok Connector Terminals - 100pk https://a.co/d/h5WlklF

Wagos are probably better because I'm sure they have some within your voltage / amperage range. Just got to read the box

nitrogen fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Oct 4, 2022

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

ryanrs posted:

Those feel like category 3 solutions, which is seriously not what I'm after.

Toyota does not put wago connectors and scotchloks in the engine compartment, I'm pretty sure.

Then learn to solder. Soldering with heat shrink is the best option

nitrogen fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Oct 4, 2022

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
Texas specific question.

I sold a car a few months ago and i'm now getting toll bills for it.
I'm currently on hold with the toll authority for about an hour, is there anything else I should be doing?

I DID fill out the "Vehicle transfer notification" with the state online when I sold it.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

STR posted:

Hope you printed a copy. Which toll authority is it? Also, the ability of toll authorities in Texas ends at sending threatening sounding letters and putting a block on the registration (so it can't be renewed) - they can't send you to collections or anything like that.

It's central Texas/Austin. I am in NTTA land.

The only thing I'm worried about is they said they were going to report it to my credit.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

STR posted:

Sup fellow Austin goon? Austin

I'm actually in North Texas, the buyer is in CTMA areas, but yeah, CTMA is the primary dudes i was on hold with for an hour and gave up on.
Now that I know they megafucked people with their billing system, I know why.

PainterofCrap posted:


But I don't know about Texas - do the tags follow the vehicle?

Texas gives you the choice. I had no idea how to properly do the "keep your tags and do a temp permit" thing before then, but i'll definitely do it next time. Oopsie.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

AA and Carplay are pretty sensitive to cables.

For Android Auto, AA wireless works pretty well at least on my setup.

It was one of the kickstarters this product, but now it's generally available and I recommend it.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
So I'm wondering what the heck is going on with my truck ('06 Silverado, 5.3 L33 engine)
When the oil life hits between 40-50%, when the engine is cold, the oil pressure is way lower than usual (but not low enough to trigger a warning light or a dash warning)
It'll swim around between 20psi and 30psi until the oil hits temperature, and it will stick at 35-40psi like normal.

This happens pretty regularly when oil life hits 40-50%, and I just change the oil and oil filter, and the behavior is much better afterwards. This is usually around 3-4k miles.

Oil I use: Mobil 1 Synthetic (whatever subbrand I Can get, usually Extended Performance or High Milage)
Oil Filter: Wix XP

Not the best video, it usually swims around more than this but you get an idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFevGvhJBsQ

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

StormDrain posted:

I'd send some oil over to Blackstone for an analysis because it's cheap and fun to do.

What does the oil read on the dipstick at that time? Is it possible you're burning a lot of oil and have a low quantity of oil at the 40-50% oil life mark? Have you measured the amount of oil drained to verify the quantity? I had a Saturn that burned a lot of oil so I measured it to get an idea of how much I was losing. It was a lot. I did it by accident because I would funnel the used oil into the containers the new oil came from so I could transport it to recycle. When four quarts went in but I only had to take two for recycling it was clear there was a big problem.

I actually tried to do this last time but I had a bunch of old bottles that had the old USPS return info and they never made it to Blackstone unfortunately. I'll go order some kits.

This thing does burn oil, but it's variable, maybe between a quarter and a half a quart every 1500 miles.

I should have mentioned it's a very high mileage engine with over 230,000 miles on it.

I have cash set aside to replace this engine someday but I'd rather not until I really have to.

kastein posted:

I suspected it might be related to the variable displacement oil pump on the later GM V6s and I think V8s, but I checked rockauto and they don't have that in 06, so I'm kind of stumped because that's backwards from what I'd expect.

Maybe bad oil pressure sensor? Though probably not.

I actually replaced the oil pressure sensor about 6 or 7 months ago and it didn't make any change, since it's super easy to change out.

I see these YouTube videos with people cleaning their engines by running kerosene or diesel or engine flush. I have to wonder if that's even worth considering because it seems like a bad idea to me but I don't know poo poo which is why I'm posting on an internet forum.

nitrogen fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Oct 13, 2022

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

HenryJLittlefinger posted:



Does anything stand out as odd? Am I just not used to feeling a well-working clutch?

You got really used to a gushy clutch.

I had exactly the same problem when I redid my brakes and calipers and bled everything. The brakes were biting so quickly I thought something was out of whack.

nitrogen fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Oct 16, 2022

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

22 Eargesplitten posted:

.

Will an OBD-2 scanner like the Autozone has show TPMS codes? I know it will show traction control codes but IDK about TPMS. I had a work E-150 back in 2014 that did this but I didn't give a poo poo about it because it was a work E-150 and the massive transmission leak at 30k miles was more of a concern.

No, you'll probably need a TPMS tool like this one. https://a.co/d/j5zkrf8

You can find cheaper ones that will just do the type of car you have. (E.g. just GM)

Some Older vehicles figured out if there were low tires by reading differences in wheel speeds, but newer ones use sensors inside of the tire that read actual air pressure.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

Doc Fission posted:

Thanks for the replies, everyone. I've got the manual and I'm skimming now.

The car is a 2008 Lexus ES 350. I bought it off my dad :shobon: It has just under 100K miles and seems like a very reliable car from what I've been lightly perusing online, but again, I'm not really used to taking care of these things myself so the insight is super appreciated.

The only stupid questions are the ones that aren't asked.

Unless your dad already replaced suspension components, you're probably going to have to replace those soon. Ask him if he's replaced them and if not, be prepared to spend a couple thousand dollars to do that.

Unless the car is crunching and crashing over every bump it's not urgent but it's a major bill to be prepared for.

Another thing that you can do that isn't specifically listed in the user manual is to check your tire wear.

If you don't have a fancy tread gauge, you can use a penny, assuming you're an american. If you can see the top of Lincoln's head, you're going to need new tires.

Another thing you can do is learn how to check your various fluid levels. The user manual will tell you how to do this. If nothing else, learn how to check the oil and coolant levels.

Checking transmission fluid might be a little difficult, and checking brake fluid can be as well but if you want to go that far check those too.

If you're taking your car in for an oil change, make sure they change the air filter every other oil change. That is such an easy thing on many cars you can probably do it yourself if you want and save some money.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

honda whisperer posted:

Im gonna disagree on the first part The manual will have a milage for that and it's not every other oil change. It may vary with weird use like lots of driving on dusty dirt roads.

I will agree on the second part though. If you want to diy your air filter AI will be happy to help. And it will cost $5-10 instead of $30-50 at a shop.

Fair.

If you're doing it yourself I always find it easier to just do it every other oil change otherwise I will forget. But yeah, following the user manual is more important.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

urzaserra256 posted:

I have a 19916 chevrolet blazer.

I am getting a cylinder 6 misfire per obd but only after its been raining and until the engine is warmed up.

What should i take a look at for replacement.

Sounds to me like one of your plug wires has a bad connector or something got it.

Take a water spray bottle to each plug wire and see if you could notice which one starts shorting. That's how you can tell if I'm right or wrong.

I had the same issue after a shop replaced my plug wires and one of them was defective.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
Any recommendations for a front license plate frame that won't get chewed up in a car wash?

My 2006 Silverado had a very nice front license plate frame that got chewed up today the really new nice car wash.

I was able to bend it back in place, and I have an old but ugly metal frame on it but I would love to find something that is car Wash proof that will help it not get chewed up again.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

PainterofCrap posted:

A car wash will absolutely mangle the thin sheet they use these days for license plates.

My front plate was mangled by a snowdrift. Putting a heavy metal frame on it solved the issue.

This is exactly why I have a license plate frame, it's just the cheap metal of my last frame was only slightly better than the license plate itself.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

nitrogen posted:

Any recommendations for a front license plate frame that won't get chewed up in a car wash?

My 2006 Silverado had a very nice front license plate frame that got chewed up today the really new nice car wash.

I was able to bend it back in place, and I have an old but ugly metal frame on it but I would love to find something that is car Wash proof that will help it not get chewed up again.

I managed to find this, which is plastic, but might help the best I can figure, in case someone else has a similar problem
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9XY1FBR

At least if the carwash eats my plate this time, it might not bend like a piece of paper.

I will put a generic one of these on the front and hopefully I will be ready for evil carwashes everywhere
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DHVSSG8

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nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
Anyone have good ideas on how to deal with cracks in a dashboard?

The car is about 13 years old and spends most of its time in a garage. The repair doesn't have to be perfect but hopefully it would keep the cracks from getting worse.


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