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Random thread archaeology question. There was a long, long, very picture filled thread on another forum by a hyper obsessive detailer that documented their detail job on a white hatchback (iirc?) and did this absolutely ridiculous job, pulled the seats out, tons of "paint correction" etc etc. One of the catchphrases that came out of it was 'triple waxed the clamps on my intake', because that's what he did. Anybody remember and/or can help me track this down? I wanna say he was in Europe.
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Sep 19, 2020 20:58
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I quest for a luxobarge since my E39 got hailbombed and turned into negative assets. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/littleton-1998-lexus-ls400/7448351150.html This has so many theoretical red flags but also, it seems like a really good deal. If anybody has any raging thumbs-downs I'll hear 'em, but this seems sane and nice. Note hat i'm talking with the dude about the $5k without all the extra bling rim sets because I have a small rental and can't store the extras, nor do I care about them. Any knee-jerk takes?
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Feb 25, 2022 21:21
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Yeah, NGL i have an '05 Expedition and an FZ1 and a DRZ so i am super set for Solid Vehicles, i'm gonna go with the hairy eyeball here and see if maybe i can get the base price knocked down. I'm cagey about vehicle purchases since covid but these things are usually a lot higher. we'll see how she drives tomorrow at 2pm
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Feb 25, 2022 22:28
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I got a real quick one. 2005 expedition. I FINALLY after four years dove into the vacuum lines that the PO hosed up (this suffered from the 'only air through floor and defrost' problem), and now have all vent controls working. HOWEVER now that the a/c's hooked up and blasting me in the face with frosty goodness, I've got this one, tiny tiny (one of those 3/16", sort of hard plastic, not flexy rubber) vac lines that appears to be going down to a very similar path that the 4wd vacuum line takes. I saw a reference to this being a vent tube for the hub locks; does that track? I'm just worried that it needs to be hooked up somewhere, but according to this diagram the left and right hubs tee off of a single line lower down, so I do think it's the vent (probably up there to keep water out?) e: I did go out in my gravel driveway and launched a couple times, 2wd and 4x4 High. Was definitely working on the latter attempt, so I think I am okay. Would love a confirm from an 00's ford genius though. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Oct 6, 2022 |
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Oct 6, 2022 22:04
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I forgot to take plates off a $200 '79 cutlass and a year and a half later got notification that my car was impounded pursuant to a federal drug investigation. they actually fixed that piece of poo poo up and were using it to run crack between memphis and little rock. Shoulda realized something was up when they showed up with a dolly being pulled by a brand new Escalade One "oops forgot to take the plate off, here's the bill of sale, long gone" letter and it was all cleared up. for me at least
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Oct 6, 2022 23:17
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OK cool. I was vaguely aware of how IWEs work. i'm just nervous about that tube but i'm 99% sure it's the vent. I am good! thanks much
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Oct 7, 2022 00:46
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I got bit by the 'dont worry about the fun ride's mpg' once, but that was because my main broke down, and i had to take the '77 blazer to work, 15 miles each way, with a hosed up carb that had it sitting around 7 mpg. in 2008 or whatever when gas spiked to four bucks. Rebuilt the carb and it shot up to 14 in the city. hell yeah
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Oct 8, 2022 21:45
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More 2005 Expedition fun. This may be too deep for this thread, but I'll throw it out. Installed a new turn signal flasher and LED park bulbs and HIDs last night. Came out this morning to a dead battery. Charged it, started okay. Something seemed off, so I pulled the negative line and put a DMM in 10A range inline. 500 mA draw continuously. Doors closed, lights off, etc. Pulled the master fuses for my offroad lights and ham rigs, no change. Googling around, I see that some people see this issue on this era of Fords when the instrument cluster isn't getting a good signal from some switch that indicates the vehicle is in park; thus the computer in the cluster stays on forever. What circuit is that on? Oh, fuse 21. The exact same fuse that I replaced the other day to finally get my dome and puddle lights working on the nice timer setup. This is all starting to click. Some part of the wiring or electronics isn't letting the cluster sleep. I never noticed it before because the fuse was popped. I'm having real trouble finding _which_ switch to replace though. Don't think it's the brake switch? Can't really see a column switch. Back of the ignition? For what it's worth, my steering wheel doesn't lock when I pull the key, either. This seems odd. Searching forums gives me a bunch of guys arguing back and forth whether 00's fords do this or not. I've watched a video or two on ignition switch replacement and it looks like they're pulling the airbag - a thing that i am always scared of. Any thoughts at all? I can keep the fuse pulled but would like to get everything fixed up to 100%.
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Oct 9, 2022 23:19
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Chimes with key in and door open, immediately off when closed. With the fuse in, the lights do properly go off after 30 seconds of door closed. so i dont think its the door switch. I don't get odometer with door open or key in and door closed, only when i turn it to start/run. I do hear a relay clicking and see the tach twitch a little bit when I insert the key about 1/4 of an inch, so it's detecting key-in okay.
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Oct 9, 2022 23:39
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STR posted:The shift position switch is on the side of the transmission, where the shift cable connects (also the odometer doesn't light up when opening the door on this era Ford). Also, did you leave your DMM connected long enough to allow everything to settle down and go to sleep? That can take up to 10-15 minutes after reconnecting the battery. As for the steering wheel lock, sometimes it requires turning the steering wheel back and forth a bit to engage it - have you tried that? Good tips, thanks. And yeah i set a 40 minute timer on my phone when i set the DMM up to read amps. Was still right at 515 milliamps after that; supposedly the sleep on those modules is 30 minutes. I'm gonna pop the housing around the column and take a look-see. I hope it's not a pain in the dick to replace...ugh and i'm going to have separate open/start keys now aren't i. ugh.
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Oct 10, 2022 02:12
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I hit my lights with the 3m kit with the drill chuck thing. Helped a bit but i couldn't really get an even texture across the whole thing - the bottom halves scuffed and then polished fine, but the original coating or whatever on the top half was intact and just wouldn't come off or scuff up. Half a mind to go nuclear on it for another round and start at like 400 grit with my random orbital, just to cleanse all the sins of the past and level the whole surface
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Oct 10, 2022 02:37
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2005 expedition adventures: Thanks for the instrument cluster drain help. I'm gonna get that steering column nekkid this weekend and see what's what. -- On to the only other issue that i really really want to fix. Rear HVAC. Zero blower with any combination of the fan controls, obviously no heat or cool. It's not the blend door actuator - I've replaced that with no joy. Pins on the blower motor have constant 12v on one and no continuity to ground in any position on the other. pulled the rear blower resistor, it's fine. I saw a reference to a 'rear relay/fuse box, by the hvac' but i have the entire right rear trim out, even bought a big Torx to pull the seatbelt anchors, and there is not a damned thing back there that I can ID as a fuse/relay point. It looks like the wires bundle up and then snake up front in a big octopus cluster. Anybody have a line on where the relays and fuses for all the goodness back there might reside? Edit: I found the relay, I think. Way the gently caress deep in the C pillar. Relay clicks and the contacts are fine (i pulled the case off). No fuses in that box at all, just a single relay. Edit2: Found the fuse. 107 up front. Tests good. swapped with known good (another 30a for the driver seat), no change. Gotta be the switch I mention below. I. Am. Stumped. the only other thing i can think of is - the rear hvac fan switch up front (up above the mirror) feels a little weird? like the detent 4 is kinda not there. Wondering if maybe that switch is hosed. I'm gonna drop that panel and test the switch this weekend and see if the fan comes on with jumped wires up there. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Oct 12, 2022 |
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Oct 11, 2022 23:38
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I had problems with a dying battery in the Expedition as i'd occasionally go 2-3 months between drives with it. I picked up one of those $29 10 watt solar panels to throw on the dash and it keeps the battery quite happy now. If your cig lighter socket is live with the key out, it'll work on yours as well. Doesn't have to be a full sun situation either.
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Oct 14, 2022 19:04
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Do note on those panels, though, that I developed a weird stumble with it plugged in and lying on the floorboard when I was driving. I suspect it, like all solar panels without blocking diodes, was doing weird stuff to the +12 line and pulling it down because the alternator was out-volting it. I added a blocking diode in the cig lighter plug for it and it went away, but you can also just yank the plug when you start it up if you experience any issues.
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Oct 14, 2022 22:39
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That's how it's been every time i've done a cylinder swap and proper bleed on a vehicle with a still-good clutch. As long as it's fully engaged with your foot off the pedal i say roll with it
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Oct 16, 2022 16:34
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Trabant posted:Does such a wagon/hatchback/SUV exist? latest gen Explorer is 48.1 between the wheel wells. They stick out a bit but you can ratchet strap the gate down np
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Oct 17, 2022 19:19
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I have a 2009 Hyundai Tucson It's not a turbo engine so you will have a miserable time crossing the rockies with a trailer behind this thing. Cars get weaker as elevation goes up. I think I did the math and at the top of Mt Evans (just over 14k) my 280hp bmw was around 160hp. A lot of the i70 passes are above 10k feet. you'll have around what 130-140 hp there with that motor? and a trailer...I would pass on this one.
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Oct 25, 2022 07:45
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Anybody know how to de-pin these? Evidently squirrels think this was delicious  It's the IMRC connector top rear of the intake on my 05 expedition. I have been searching for a replacement but don't see one that looks exactly like this on the various sites and i'd rather just de-pin and rewire myself. Tried my usual tiny screwdriver tricks and maybe i'm missing something, idk.
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Feb 25, 2024 20:58
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Colostomy Bag posted:Worked both ends? Back side is a tight fit with just the wire, no jeweler's screwdriver pokey clearance VelociBacon posted:You probably want something like this, there seem to be a few of them maybe the multi-ones cover all the bases. Available on amazon etc. I used something similar for my VW and it made it very easy. This looks like a handy thing to have around. I'll give it a crack
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Feb 25, 2024 22:29
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Weird thing is, they only ate that and two vacuum hoses (i learned my lesson and keep a hose and fitting kit here at all times, so that's nbd) and there are many, many reports of squirrels and rodents specifically eating this fork of the harness. A quick scan shows nothing else touched. It's near the top of the engine so i wonder if they were camped out there in January (didnt drive it all) tryin to stay warm next to the hood or something.
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Feb 26, 2024 01:23
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even just an autozone battery for my e39 started tickling $400 by the time i stopped driving it. ugh
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Mar 11, 2024 20:16
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As a person that just got a hood replacement with paint for a 2020 miata, it's pretty much OEM. Most total and part-outs are going to have a f'd up hood, so you gotta get a fresh one. Bare hood was $1700 for me and bare trunk was $900, about 500 of paint on each, but my poo poo is racer boy thin aluminum, so your numbers may be a bit lower depending on what car it is.
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Mar 22, 2024 02:22
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my 2020 miata has 5.75" of clearance and i'll huck it down fire roads. You'll be 100% fine.
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Apr 10, 2024 02:30
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Also keep in mind geometry kicks in a lot when talking about ground clearance. If you've got 5" and there's a rock dead center, your right front has to go down more than 10" for clearance to kick in. And probably more considering that the other 3 suspension components are gonna hold it up a little bit.
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Apr 10, 2024 03:09
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what a delightful and cantankerous gasoline consumer, holy poo poo
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Apr 10, 2024 05:16
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do not ask me about my (mostly comedy, but what if????) plans to lift my miata and slam my expedition
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Apr 10, 2024 05:19
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the fun part is that the Dad who specced my expedition went for the eddie bauer tier but made two critical adjustments: * downspecced the third row seats from power to the old manual levers * turned down the airbag suspension on the eddie bauer tier for traditional shocks and struts the first is why i don't have to buy $900 gear motors to make my seats work after 15 years. the second one is what would let me drop it with zero angst. Good dad.
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Apr 10, 2024 05:32
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I'm wondering if the climate control issue is a vacuum thing. A lot of vehicles use engine vacuum to actuate the blend doors and such for climate control and it's possible there's a leak. Though with such a late model vehicle, i'd think you wouldn't have anything like that going on yet
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Apr 10, 2024 20:09
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yeah some matrices and vibes will just cap at 299999mi. then u gotta start checking the 'inaccurate odometer' box on the vehicle title
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Apr 12, 2024 03:44
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The big motivator for me to do oil changes on a baseline time schedule and a secondary mileage schedule is that you'll get some condensation from winter weather as the sun comes up and goes down over the winter, putting some water in your oil. Maybe this is old wives' tales, I don't know. I don't drive that much, but i generally do a "the trees are sprouting leaves" change to get the winter oil out, and a "kids are running around in halloween costumes" change because i've probably put summer miles on.
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Apr 15, 2024 06:45
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His Divine Shadow posted:Reminds me it's time to do an oil change, or maybe three. Also looks like I need a new battery. I was gonna drive to work today in my Saab and it made a millenium falcon like sound as I tried to start. Battery has run down totally more than once over winter storage and it's real bad for batteries to get run down like that. Here's my old man trick if you have issues with dying batteries in vehicles you rarely drive. google '10 watt car solar panel' and as long as your cigarette lighter socket is always hot (like a phone charger works with the car off, meaning its directly wired to the battery) these will keep your battery in tip top shape. Even with winter and clouds.  I keep one of these jammed on my dash and plugged into the lighter socket on my Expedition, and sometimes I go 4-6 months without driving it. Cranks perfect every time. They're 20-30 bucks and will amortize into battery replacement costs over a year. You only need a few milliamps to keep a lead-acid nicely maintained, and these will provide that and then some. And they won't do any overchargey battery boiling stuff either.
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Apr 15, 2024 07:49
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Funny you mention - I just ripped off and replaced the M12 x 1.5 lug nuts on my Miata not ten minutes ago. (they didn't give me the key at sale time, and it's tire rotation time.) Point 1:  'security lug nuts' are worthless. I just effectively stole my own wheels with five minutes of time and a $20 lug nut extractor set. Anyways, the lovely lug nuts are largely an OEM thing. I haven't really seen those for sale aftermarket. You can easily tell if a lug nut has a lovely chrome cap, it's a two piece thing and there'll be a seam. Here's an example of real, metal, one piece lug nuts (I'm not endorsing this particular brand, just using as an example) 
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Apr 15, 2024 23:16
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And one more thing - you'll notice those lug nuts are 'bulge acorn' style and this may set off your spidey senses, considering the drama you're currently having with, well, bulging lug nuts. It's an unfortunate term! 'bulge acorn' style simply means that it has a smaller rounded end, and it has that little lip on the bottom. The purpose of that is to act as a stop for your socket/lug wrench, so that you don't bottom out on the wheel itself and scratch up your wheel.
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Apr 15, 2024 23:54
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Nope, you drive something like that till a snapped timing chain lunches the valves, and it'll likely last 400k if you change the oil and replace that timing chain at 220k or whatever. I'm 45 with a low-mile Miata and looking to buy a '23 Prius as a 'practical' second car and I expect them to be the last vehicles I own for the rest of my life.
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Apr 30, 2024 07:46
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at that point i would be looking at just getting a big sheet of that plasticized cardboard we used to use for science fair triptychs and cutting to fit and calling it good. full headliner board + cover replacements may get rare-ish on something like that
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May 4, 2024 02:09
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 15:56 |
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I’m just bitter because I’m an Oldsmobile man. As a teen i had both a '79 Cutlass and a peavey guitar head with a hosed up faceplate, and i stole the rear Oldsmobile badge and put it on the amp, with the neon power light affixed in the big O. That was the coolest guitar amp i've ever touched, hell yes.
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May 5, 2024 02:46
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