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IOwnCalculus posted:Modern cars require the presence of a functioning battery to soak up spikes in electrical demand, even with a fully functioning alternator. I'm pretty sure they're well below that, more on the 100 bar range. Maybe a bit more. But certainly not anywhere close to diesels.
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Jul 13, 2023 05:17
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That sounds like the kind of practical advice you really wish you didn't have the knowledge to give.
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Aug 9, 2023 20:31
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Iirc those detection systems use lidar
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Sep 3, 2023 02:21
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randomidiot posted:That too. O2 is something you should always go at least name brand on, if not full OEM. totalnewbie has bashed that into our skulls repeatedly, and if anybody knows O2 sensors, it's them (I mean they kinda work for a major OEM in a way that's directly involved with this stuff). Hey it's me. To be clear, I don't just work for a supplier (here in Detroit, we typically use "OEM", when referring to companies, to refer to auto manufacturers), O2 sensors and spark plugs are literally my job. I'm no longer customer (i.e. engineers at an OEM) facing but there's very little I could do to become more involved in it. I don't want someone to get the impression that I work in IT and just happen to be at a supplier. Anyway! When it comes to O2 sensors, just buy OEM. If your OEM sensor is a Bosch sensor and you buy the NTK compatible sensor, there's a good chance you're just going to pull out a Bosch sensor. There ARE sensors produced by non-OEM-suppliers to be compatible with the OEM sensor and for many older vehicles, this is fine (though it obviously does add a layer of possibility for error). This is especially true for switching sensors. For widerange sensors (A/F, LAF, whatever you call them), it's almost impossible to replace with a non-OEM sensor because it's actually actively controlled by the ECU so it needs a very specific sensor (vs. a switching sensor which just puts out a signal and for the most part if the output signal is generally correct then the sensor should generally work fine. Generally.). Leon Trotsky 2012 posted:I think I have a bad O2 sensor, but wanted some advice to confirm. You said you replaced the front sensor, which is what the codes are for. Given that you bought some random sensor, it's entirely possible that the sensor is not correct for the car. Replace it with the correct OEM sensor and then see if the codes go away. If they don't then listen to these guys because they actually know what they're doing with cars. I'm not a mechanic. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Sep 9, 2023 |
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Sep 9, 2023 12:15
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I know, and it's just when we refer to companies that oem generally means the auto maker. You'll notice I used oem to indicate a supplier but in the context of the parts, not the company.
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Sep 9, 2023 21:27
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Cactus Ghost posted:yeah there's no way in hell i'd put seafoam through anything with a catylitic converter or an o2 sensor unless i disconnected the cat and was ready to replace the sensor. idk if that's actually true, its just the vibe i get. billowing smoke doesn't seem good for things that need to stay hot, clean, and unclogged What's in seafoam anyway? O2 sensors these days are pretty resistant to poisoning. Though you know, ounce of prevention pound of cure and all that.
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Oct 4, 2023 16:46
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Sapozhnik posted:Well, I shouldn't have said "hidden", I mean just some OEM cellular radio phoning home about god-knows-what which isn't any of the manufacturers business. The same crap that newer cars use to enable app integrations and such. Wait til you hear about real-time monitoring and reporting of vehicle performance (OBM) (still unimplemented but already in Euro 7 regulations)
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Oct 26, 2023 23:55
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poemdexter posted:(2014 Dodge Dart). Someone call cps
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Nov 3, 2023 01:16
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Briefly, I thought Reliant came back and started making small trucks.
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Nov 30, 2023 03:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:If Google is right, there's an auxiliary heater in it: Yes, it's this. Diesel engines actually (as you might already have known, hence the question) suck at generating heat. So diesel vehicles use secondary heaters for cabin heat. It's quite a source of wasted energy. There may or may not be efforts to replace the current ones with more efficient heaters.
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Jan 25, 2024 06:28
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The most likely tech to be implemented (if any) is probably going to be electronically heated catalysts tbh. There's been a lot of other tech ideas thrown around but ehc is just so much easier to implement than any of the others.
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Jan 26, 2024 01:24
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honda whisperer posted:I know my BRZ sounds weird for the first 30 seconds or so it runs. Twice as loud and has a nice burble. By the time I lock the garage and hop back in it's in sewing machine mode again. I'm not sure what it's doing though. It's heating up the O2 sensor and undergoing dew point waiting so it can go into closed loop. (and probably other stuff)
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Jan 26, 2024 01:46
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Why is it the o2 sensor?
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Jan 29, 2024 17:04
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wesleywillis posted:I brought it in today and they did a road test and then I guess they must have hooked up their scanner to it. I think she (the service advisor) mentioned something about too much resistance in the O2 sensor. Or O2 sensor circuit. O2 sensor circuit high voltage? P0138? If it didn't set a code, don't replace it. If it did then okay, but it's unlikely to be directly related to everything else. But if it did set a code, that's one of the most common ones. FWIW.. this is typically caused by an open circuit somewhere. High voltage actually means no voltage because of the pull-up voltage. Typical cause is water intrusion, either through the filter or on the leadwire itself due to abrasion or some other damage. Disclaimer: this is from my perspective an an engineer; trust actual good mechanics over me for actual practical advice. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jan 29, 2024 |
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Jan 29, 2024 19:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's not a sensor issue that's feeding all of those systems missing/bad data, then it could be a common power or ground issue on a circuit that feeds all of those. Yeah, I immediately thought it might be a wiring harness issue or something but that was just my initial reaction and I don't know poo poo so I kept my mouth shut about it lol 
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Jan 29, 2024 20:43
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Someone already mentioned it but P0300 is random misfire and P0301 is cylinder 1 misfire, P0302 is cylinder 2, etc.
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Jan 31, 2024 08:55
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Have you been able to find what driving conditions the monitor is looking for?
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Feb 16, 2024 16:40
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cursedshitbox posted:It shouldn't take 1000 miles to set monitors. Find the exact procedure for your car and follow it to the letter. "Varied" driving won't set the catalyst efficiency monitor easy. I don't know the specifics of this monitor, obviously, but I am intimately familiar with other monitors. There are certain intrusive monitors, for example, that require very specific conditions that are very rarely fulfilled, so it may be that 1k+ miles is simply due to people (from that area?) not driving in that way. In addition, as cars get more complex, more and more things need to be OBDed and various OBDs start fighting each other (during development/calibration) for opportunities to run. Just saying, 1k miles is probably an exaggeration but maybe not quite by as much as you might think.
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Feb 17, 2024 06:41
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Leperflesh posted:2003 mazda protege5, 168k miles Engineer here, not mechanic. All those O2 diagrams look normal. S1 should oscillate and S2 should be steady around 450 mV. Clear codes and see if it keeps setting? You could also check the exhaust for leaks letting fresh air into the exhaust system.
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Mar 9, 2024 22:47
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L. Ron DeSantis posted:So I'm ideally looking to get either an EV or a plug-in hybrid, and I've seen what look like drat good deals on used Chevy Bolts, which everyone seems to really like.My question is, when buying used, what's the max mileage I should accept given that the battery is likely to be the first thing to wear out and the most expensive thing to replace? Also do look into tax incentives to buy a new vehicle if you haven't. It may be significantly cheaper than you think to buy a new car (or not; I just know there's a bunch of tax credits potentially available). And, according to a survey last year, 28% would accept under 200 miles, 15% 200-250, 20% up to 300, and 38% over 300 miles. (minimum range) I also have, in my mind, something like 20% range reduction as when the battery is "done". I don't feel like looking through my notes but that sounds about right anyway. And it's not an exact scientific thing anyway.
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Mar 15, 2024 07:16
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https://www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/credits-for-new-clean-vehicles-purchased-in-2023-or-after Start here. Also: quote:To claim the credit for vehicles placed in service before January 1, 2024, file Form 8936, Qualified Plug-in Electric Drive Motor Vehicle Credit (Including Qualified Two-Wheeled Plug-in Electric Vehicles) with your tax return. https://fueleconomy.gov/feg/tax2023.shtml
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Mar 15, 2024 20:38
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Overtightening is not always safe. I had an issue with thread loosening after durability and the fix was to decrease the target tightening torque. Of course, this is in an application with some thermal cycling but point is, sometimes things can be counterintuitive and potentially get you into trouble. Also, it's always safe until the day it isn't. If the result of "it isn't" is "drat it I got a paper cut" then fine, keep doing that. If the result of "it isn't" is "my wheel fell off at 80 mph down a highway" then that's probably not what you want to gamble on. It's not about "under what conditions could I potentially undertoque my lug nuts and be safe" it's more like "does doing this raise my chances of the wheel falling off from basically zero (it's never zero, is it.. ) to not-basically-zero"? And the answer is yes. And do you want to find out just how many miles you might have to drive with those to run into a problem? No. You absolutely do not.
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Mar 26, 2024 01:47
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I would say that the vast majority of people who have ever changed a wheel never owned or used a torque wrench, and wheels don’t fly off as often as the thread seems to imply. Did you read a single word I posted? Like, yeah, sure, you're ~probably~ going to be fine. But the other side of that probably is extremely bad so you should ~probably~ try to avoid it as much as possible, especially when all it takes is to buy a special version of a tool you were going to use anyway. I get it if you literally cannot get access to a torque wrench in any way sure, yeah, fine. But that's not the sort of behavior that should be encouraged.
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Mar 26, 2024 06:51
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Connectors: Make sure you check the keyway fits (if it exists)
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Mar 27, 2024 22:30
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kastein posted:This O2 sensors for GM had 4 choices for colors and 8 keyways. Sleeves also came in grey or black. Each color/keyway/sleeve color combination was assigned to differentiate different sensor suppliers, sensor type, keyway, etc. GM wanted to change one thing and so I spent an hour sitting down with a DRE to go over which vehicle was in which vehicle plant and had what part numbers and what color connectors and keyways and oh my god what a headache. Yep, that's what it's like being an engineer. Sorting colors and shapes.
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Mar 27, 2024 23:17
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His Divine Shadow posted:I dunno what kind of car this is, but I just watched a youtube about a car catching fire and the reason was that the insulation had degraded in the wiring harness, because for those particular years (84-86) of that particular car the manufacturer experimented with a different type of wire insulation that was biodegradable. It was just falling apart by then. So based on that I would be a bit worried if the rest of the wiring looked like this. I... want things to be environmentally friendly but what the gently caress.
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Mar 28, 2024 07:26
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Lowest hanging fruit: check the physical connection to the battery.
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Mar 28, 2024 22:32
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Jonny 290 posted:my 2020 miata has 5.75" of clearance and i'll huck it down fire roads. You'll be 100% fine. Cue an exactly 0.65 inch tall dent in the civic.
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Apr 10, 2024 04:46
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Cowslips Warren posted:How accurate are the Check Engine Light tools at O'Reilly's/Autozone stores? I know it's not a full test and gives a base idea (and I'll have to pay for a full diagnostic at my mechanic) but the light is not flashing on my dash, and the dude at OReilly's said it was something with a gas tank valve that was leaking, which is annoying as I literally got a new gas tank a few months ago since mine had cracked and I was leaking gas. From my perspective as an engineer and not a mechanic, the fact that you have a gas-tank-related OBD shortly after having work done on your gas tank is strong evidence that the OBD flag is correct. When we look at individual warranty claim cases, which we do in some cases but not very often, one of the first things we always look at is service history. Just a fun tidbit, the reasons for looking at individual warranty claims have been anywhere from "Well this was an extremely odd failure," "We've had several occurrences of this issue lately," to "The VP's neighbor's car had to get taken to the shop." In addition to the possibility that something wasn't done correctly and it loosened over time, it could also be that the OBD checks take time to complete and it was only recently able to record enough abnormalities to set the flag. Work performed -> light -> who hosed up the work that was performed totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 1, 2024 |
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May 1, 2024 15:58
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