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sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Hey guys, I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue (GM 3800 engine, non-supercharged, automatic transmission, front-wheel drive) with 142k miles. I'm hearing a strange sort-of growling/grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, usually around 25-35 miles per hour while accelerating. If I let off the gas or hit it harder, the noise will stop. It also comes back sometimes while lazily accelerating from say 45 to 60. I don't think it's the bearing due to how it comes and goes in specific circumstances. I don't think it is related to the steering angle. I'm not having any drive issues with it that I can tell, but if it's not my imagination, I do feel sometimes like the car is slipping, like if you have a lovely clutch in a manual transmission. That's usually at low speed under 30ish mph.

Any ideas of what that is or how to narrow it down further would be appreciated.

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sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Hm, well the front pads and rotors are definitely in need of replacement. I already have the parts. It would be pretty cool if that's all it is.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Is there a straightforward fix to this break in my exhaust? I can't even really tell what is going on with it. It's a 2007 Saturn Vue V6 AWD if that matters. This joint is between the flex pipe and what I think is the cat resonator.

pics: https://imgur.com/a/asBYpjf

sleepy gary fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Apr 3, 2021

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

^ ^ ^ I live in an area with salted roads in winter, but this one's not too bad yet. My daily driver is not long for the world though due to its rust. It's frustrating.

It's just that one joint that's all rotted out. The rest is fine. I've got a guy I can bring it to but I'm trying to do my own repairs more and more.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

2004 VW Passat 1.8t. Steering is wonky. Car seems to pull left or right (though mostly right) on smooth bumps and the steering doesn't seem to want to self-center. Slow leak near the rack&pinion. Tire wear looks quite even.

Any ideas what that could be? If it's just the rack&pinion that would be great.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

What's the minimum quantity of meth you need to have there?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I have a b5.5 passat that is locked and the battery is dead. The key cylinders are jammed up so I can't unlock the thing manually or with the fob. What's the easiest way for me to get into the car?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Got a coat hangar or a brick?

Nooooooo.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I think he replaced his coolant and bled the system, but is now noticing by coincidence his AC is probably a bit low on refrigerant. I think it's unrelated to the blown coolant lines unless he tweaked a refrigerant line or fitting while doing the work.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

NEC, but with gold fringe.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Jack B Nimble posted:

Man, at what point do you start to think that this recommended garage, that your usual mechanic directed you to because he doesn't do A/C work, just sucks.

My girlfriend has had her 2010 Ford Taurus in for AC work twice now in two weeks, and both times the AC stops working after a day. First, they replace the compressor and the belt and charge it, then they deal with some "filters" that were clogged (IDKS about ACs, the system has filters I guess?), and now, the new belt is squealing and the car has an uneven idle. Is this just a reasonable number of "downstream" complications that aren't apparent until the current issues are fixed, or at these guys just dummies? At this point I almost want to tell them "look, fix the car, and then use it go get lunch for a few days now, because you don't really seem to be checking to see if you've actually resolved the issue".

The mechanic she normally used a transmissions specialist and he's one of those great, semi professional, semi retired old men that just putters around in their well equipped home garage, and always does great work and never over charges, but he recommended her to a more traditional shop for the AC work and it's like, they obviously don't give a poo poo and are getting vehicles in and out with a minimum amount of professionalism. Not incompetent or corrupt, but we're not going to be getting any favors as we bring this poo poo back for the same issue for the third time. Like, we've spent two grand on the AC on a very old car; fuckin' fix it.

At this rate, the AC is out on my car (it's charged, the compressor doesn't engage), and I'm not going to be taking it there.

For your car, test/replace the AC clutch relay. If that's the problem you got lucky. Are you sure the system is charge and at the correct pressure?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

You're almost definitely pulling air from around the tube with the vacuum. Do you have a second person to pump the brakes for you so you don't need to PULL the fluid out of the bleeder?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I have a pressure bleeder too but really all you need is any person, even a kid, to pump the brake pedal for you when you crack the bleeder open.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Nah, blind spot monitoring and ACC are both radar typically. LIDAR is a big ol' spinning sensor that you'd see.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

FYI, the harbor freight trailers all say not to exceed 45mph. I'm sure most people do anyways, but that skeezes me out about them.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I have a 2007 Saturn Vue 3.5 AWD. It is no longer AWD because it has no drive shaft. Is there any reason I shouldn't remove the rear differential and rear cv axles?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

cursedshitbox posted:

If its the same wheelbearing used on the rear axle between FWD/AWD You're probably fine. Otherwise leave the cv stub axle in the hub to hold the bearings together.
It won't make much of a difference in mpg if that's what you're seeking.

Pretty sure it's the same bearing. I don't see any reason the CV axles need to be connected to the bearings but I wanted to get some opinions first. I'm not looking for MPG gains from it.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

honda whisperer posted:

If they go through the bearing it holds them together. If they bolt to a hub you'll be fine.

Leave the diff and put a Bluetooth sticker on it.

They go through the bearing (all the bearings have splines for cv axles even on the 2WD models from what I can tell) but they're held onto the bearing hub assembly with an axle nut. The bearing assembly bolts onto the knuckle. This all seems like I should be able to remove the cv axles, right?

Thanks for the opinions.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

randomidiot posted:

Out of curiously though, why are you removing everything? Is the rear diff bad, or just trying to free up an extra 0.1-0.2 MPG?

Very cool explanation, really appreciate it. Reason for removing is mostly OCD, I guess. Partially because I'm trying to chase down some other sounds, most likely the rear bearings. The CV axles come out easily on this vehicle but the bearing hubs are welded to the knuckle by corrosion; it's really awful to get them out. Would be really nice if the noise was the rear diff, but its fluid looks fine and it's at the proper level so I probably need bearings. And a shop press.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

Does the driveshaft not act as a seal also for the rear diff? I've never gotten inside one but wouldn't there be a big hole in the front of the diff waiting for a driveshaft?

There's a big hole waiting for the drive shaft on both ends, but both ends are sealed independent of the drive shaft, which is pretty cool in my opinion. No mess removing it and no worries driving without it.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Ok Comboomer posted:

fiesta st ecoboom is running a bit rough, check engine light is on but not flashing, pulls code P219A(00)- fuel/air mixture out of range in bank 1

any thoughts? Ford forums *spits* say anything from bad hose to bad valve

My first thought is to clean the MAF/MAP sensor and throttle body.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

2004 B5.5 Passat 1.8t

Replaced heater core which required uncoupling the steering column at the floor and my method of stopping the wheel from spinning failed and now I don't know where "center" is for it. Is there a trick for figuring this out easily and without destroying my clock spring?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Bajaha posted:

Should be a fairly easy fix.

1. Remove steering wheel (should be able to find a model specific guide online, can be surprisingly easy)

2. Once clock spring is exposed it will either have instructions on centering it, or you do the fool proof method: gently rotate it all the way one way until you encounter resistance.

3. Rotate it the other way, counting the number of turns, until you feel the same resistance.

4. Divide number of rotations in half and spin the clock spring that many times in the opposite direction.

And now it'll be centered.

Thanks, will do this.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

AI Stupid Questions Thread - Seek mental health resources

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Is there a thread to talk about derby/fig8 racing?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Unless the heat strips are physically damaged, I don't think a replacement window is going to fix anything.

Start with the fuse and/or relay associated with that circuit.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I haven't yet had to use spring compressors but I think if you do it with the proper tools and a tiny bit of youtubing, even that is not too bad. Just don't try to jank up some poo poo with those springs. Or any springs.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Suck on it and tell us what comes out.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

In the last 5-10 years it seems to me that I see more and more small trucks (think half-size busses, small box trucks) with single wheels on the rear rather than dual wheels. Is this because better tires have become available for these sorts of vehicles or is there some other reason?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Safety Dance posted:

I think you'll find the ideal car is the Laguna Seca Blue Mazda Miata



:hmmyes:

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Applebees Appetizer posted:

You could yeet it off that car launch cliff in Alaska, that would be fun

Oh man I'd like to be there for that. Looks like a fun time.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Jaxyon posted:

Reposting

Try selling it as-is on Craigslist or FB marketplace if you want to deal with that. If not, call the junk yard to come pick up and hand you a few hundred bucks in cash.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

If the charity is writing you a valuation on the car that is enough to save you the $200-300 in scrap value, then it's worth it if you are itemizing, sure.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Do thermostats typically control coolant flow to the heater core along with the rest of the loop? More specifically, a 2014 Nissan Versa Note.

My mother has this piece of poo poo with a rebuild transmission that is only like 5000 miles old, and they may have put on a transmission oil cooler as part of that work, I have no idea. Lately she says the temp gauge is going up to two notches below red, and goes right back down with the heat on. The shop is telling her it's the transmission again. I'm doubtful of that, but I do think the new transmission is already dying coincidentally. I'm thinking thermostat, but it's hard to know without being there to see it myself. She needs the car to last another 3 or 4 months.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Built Ford Tough

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

Any of you guys have experience applying undercoating? Is it too messy to do in the driveway?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

His Divine Shadow posted:

Did it anyway, put down a tarp. Nowadays I use raw linseed oil so I don't care if it gets onto the gravel or not.

I have a ton of large cardboard sheets and plenty of tarps so I may still go for it. Why did you switch to raw linseed? What were you using before? How filthy do YOU get when you do the job? How long does it take you?

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

It's a piece of poo poo, I'll do you a favor and give you $250 for it but you're really twisting my balls on this one.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I have a 99 Camry with about 94000 miles. Intermittently the transmission will hesitate on upshifts. When it does this, it may also shudder a bit while driving a constant speed. Fluid is fine, but maybe a bit overfilled. What should be my first thing other than that to start looking at?

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sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

wesleywillis posted:

When is the last time it was serviced?

Absolutely no idea, and I'm assuming never (other than a fluid change, I would assume because it looks too good to be original).

edit: I only recently acquired the car and it had been sitting for 6-8 months.

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