Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Fearless posted:

My go-to wash for white is 1 part drak, 1 part nuln oil and two parts flow aid (it's the FW recipe, basically). Not sure why you'd want lahmian medium and flow aid, they're essentially the same thing (and, if memory serves, both are basically a very mild solution of glycerine/dish soap and water).

But yeah, never use unadulterated nuln oil or any black wash to shade white. That is the path to madness.

To be honest I was just following the recipe, but you're probably right!

The Medium though isn't just a viscosity agent, its closer to to pigment-less paint, so it adds more body to the paint. (not as useful for a shade wash, though certainly). You can see that by adding one drop of flow-aid to a metallic like Hashult Copper, and then separately add a bit of Medium to a seperate drop. The pigment in the medium solution is still bound more.

:science:

# ¿ Apr 6, 2016 02:45

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# ¿ May 10, 2024 08:08

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Finished some Sentinels!

Maybe in the new codex they'll be decent? Doubt it!

# ¿ Apr 8, 2016 12:59

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

The Kingfish posted:

I like them alright for tar pitting and stuff if you have the extra fast attack slots. Yours look great! Are they magnetized?

Yeah, all magnetised. Early games are likely to be around 750pts while I paint the rest of the army, so I got some variety to start.

# ¿ Apr 8, 2016 22:48

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Would love an opinion -

Doing the Army badging for my Russessss

Which way to go?

# ¿ Apr 12, 2016 09:16

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

richyp posted:

2nd one definitely. First one makes more sense in terms of not completely negating the usefulness of any camouflage but the 2nd one pops more and looks cooler, and I'd pick cooler every time.

That's the best reasoning. Hull it is.

# ¿ Apr 12, 2016 09:47

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

An Egyptian sarcophagus on a flight stand?

# ¿ Apr 17, 2016 05:06

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

koreban posted:

That led to a friend of a friend asking me to do a commission job for him, which I accepted. I've got half of the 30k box set game done up and I wanted to stop by for some feedback. I still haven't started airbrush work, I'm working on my layering, washing, glazing and since doing these models, sponging techniques.

Solid Work

# ¿ Apr 19, 2016 02:16

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Tanks Tanks Tanks

I got a bunch of stuff painted for April - The Independent Characters Hobby Challenge is pretty addictive

# ¿ Apr 26, 2016 12:15

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

berzerkmonkey posted:

How much of the army do you have painted up? Your photos really make me want to start my Steel Legion again. I have too many drat projects going on...

At this stage it's what's in that photo, and this one:

Kicked off in late January, hoping to have the entire army done by November.

# ¿ Apr 26, 2016 16:09

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Ilor posted:

Yeast, I may have already asked you this, but do you want more Steel Legion guys? I've got another squad in blister somewhere.

Thanks mang - at this stage I'm all good for infantry, I'm only really chasing a Steel Legion Commissar at this point.

# ¿ Apr 26, 2016 23:08

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

drat those Ultras look awesome!

Very very nice.

# ¿ May 4, 2016 06:26

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

I emailed ForgeWorld about their Nightlords colour scheme, and got this back;

"Forgeworld" posted:

NIGHT LORDS COLOUR SCHEME
1. The models were undercoated with GW Black Spray
2. The models were dry brushed with Rub and Buff Pewter, bringing the black undercoat upto a silver colour.
3. Tamaiya Clear Blue and Clear Red were mixed together to make a clear purple which was applied over the whole model in 3-4 very thin coats.
4. Once the model had dried, the whole thing was airbrushed with a layer of Auto Air colour Transparent Blue.
5. The Lightning strikes were painted on with Administratum Grey as a base coat. Then were the lightning strikes meet, it was highlighted with white.
6. Once the model had dried, it was protected with a coating of GW Purity Seal.

Has anyone used Rub & Buff before, and has any tips or tricks?

# ¿ May 10, 2016 01:54

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

First of many, hopefully.

Also started priming with an Airbrush. It's like being able to see after being blind. Or something.

# ¿ May 15, 2016 08:42

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Oh man, Vallejo Surface Primer through an Airbrush has been a revelation for me.

The control I can achieve VS a rattle can means I can get a squad done in one go, not having to spray the front, wait, spray the side, wait, change to the front, wait.

It's great!

# ¿ May 16, 2016 22:47

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Phi230 posted:

So my question is what is some good sand/material for 15mm bases. What are good paints for said 15mm bases.

sift the sand?

# ¿ May 19, 2016 02:04

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Phi230 posted:

Would zandri dust > agrax earthshade > drybrush utshabi bone sound decent or is that more desert and less europe

Yeah that'd be fine - just don't go overboard on the ushabti, use it very very lightly, or else it'll go desert.

You could also try Mournfang -> Agrax -> Balor

# ¿ May 19, 2016 05:19

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

signalnoise posted:

I got dibs on telling you to buy a Badger Patriot

I just upgraded from a Delta starter to a Badger Xtreme (XTREME) Patriot 105.

Hoping for some good weather this weekend.

# ¿ May 27, 2016 00:18

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Mugaaz posted:

Any brick and mortar store I could reasonably expect to find something like Vallejo airbrush primer and thinners?

I'm not sure where you are, but in Australia they're *everywhere*

From memory Vallejo is a little tougher for Americans for some reason.

# ¿ May 27, 2016 05:13

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

wdarkk posted:

What's a good airbrush primer?

Edit: also, which Vallejo airbrush metallic looks the most like Reaper's True Silver?

http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Stynylrez.asp

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/es_ES/surface-primer/familia/22

Yeast fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jun 1, 2016

# ¿ Jun 1, 2016 01:35

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

I've just recently bought the Patriot 105 XTREME it's fantastic.

Highly, highly recommended.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2016 07:12

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Yeah I stepped up from a Delta airbrush and the difference is night and day. You actually feel like you have control over the brush, rather than having a giant on/off switch attached to a compressor.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2016 09:47

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

A good sable brush and some Masters brush soap is a one time investment.

Both in your tools and your sanity.

# ¿ Jun 25, 2016 02:18

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Red Shoe posted:

Hopefully an airbrush expert can help me out. Recently, when I have been airbrushing with white and I am getting a lot of speckles of white paint around the stream. I have been able to get smooth blends before, but for some reason it is spattering slightly now. This seems to be an issue with whites specifically.

I have tried with P3 white, Vallejo white, and for good measure Vallejo Air white as well. I am using a Sotar 20/20 and am thinning with a mix of distilled water, matte medium, and fluid retarder.

Adjust your air pressure, if its splattering that typically means its getting 'stuck' in the system, either from being too thick, or having insufficient force to project it smoothly.

Also, check that you don't have paint building up around the nozzle guard that could be adding to it.

# ¿ Jul 6, 2016 03:53

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

w00tmonger posted:

Any airbrush recommendations here? I have a cheapo masters g23 at the moment and was thinking about an upgrade

Either a Patriot 105 or a Patriot Xtreme (a 105 with mainly nice not need to have changes).

# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 05:20

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

On the recommendation of this thread I bought some Vallejo metal Air

Review: :aaa:

I mean holy poo poo this is good. I've previously been using citadel air metallics, and they're fine, but this is just blow away better in comparison. Smoother, less granularity, faster to dry, and true actual metallic.

Strongly considering buying the whole set now.

# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 05:24

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Star Man posted:

Today, I learned that I should not use gloss varnish on tanks.

May I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Enamel-3oz-Dullcote-Lacquer/dp/B009FF6DN4

# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 01:10

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

It's also used when you're using oil paints for weathering!

But I suspect Star Man was referring to a final coat.

And yeah. Blergh.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 01:16

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

A friend had a flyer cave in from the inside doing that, so - approach with caution.

# ¿ Jul 10, 2016 01:51

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Goons, I need to paint strip old citadel metal models from '97

They've been painted really badly, eBay rescues basically.

As you can see, they're super thick, and taking a hobby knife to it shows they've been painted over probably 3 times. I need it bare metal again for my own army, and don't mind using toxic chemicals, as I have a mechanic next door who has a collection for brake fluid, oils etc.

I just want the most thorough option, and having attempted simple green and then spent literal hours scrubbing at them with old tooth brushes, I need something with more grunt.

Has anyone here had experience stripping models with brake fluid, oven cleaner or the like?

# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 00:01

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Avenging Dentist posted:

I have used break fluid (on metals and plastics), and it works. If that's pewter, acetone (nail polish remover) might also do the trick.

Ah awesome. I tried to grab some nail polish remover, but they're all acetone free now. Googling tells me I can get a litre of pure acetone for about $15, so I'll try a hardware store.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 00:29

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

TTerrible posted:

If you're in the UK, biostrip. If you're not, get something with dichloromethane in.

Wear nitrile gloves and a respirator.

Legend, thank you!

https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-2l-polystrippa_p1715090

Looks like this contains the ingredient. Easy!

# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 00:32

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

TTerrible posted:

Biostrip will not harm plastic or metal but will ruin resin. Anything with DCM in it will straight up dissolve plastic and resin and leave metal totally bare.

That's exactly the sort of thing I'm after. It's all pure metal that I'm working with, but has been repainted so many times it's basically smooth.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 00:34

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Avenging Dentist posted:

Are you sure about that? In the US at least, I see lots of brands of nail polish remover with acetone as their first ingredient. I haven't had any issue with using the diluted stuff from a drug store, but then I've only used acetone on small bits, and mostly to dissolve superglue.

Might have just been the pharmacy I was in. In Australia yeah you can still buy it, its just very uncommon now. (apparently).

I'm going to buy some Acetone and some Paint Stripper (dichloromethane) and see how I go.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 04:30

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

TTerrible posted:

dichloromethane

That literally took about 6 mins.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 13:06

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Electric Hobo posted:

A local store finally got some Tamiya paints in, so I bought a set of translucents and some thinner. Anything I should know before I destroy my models/brushes/brain using them?

They don't react well with non-solvent based paints or thinners, or retarders. So don't go adding crackle mediums or fun stuff like that or it will all turn to gloopy poo poo.

I use it on my night lords to tint their hands red - straight out of the pot onto the metallic, then once dry I matt varnish them.

Also, use a synthetic not-important brush.

# ¿ Jul 12, 2016 23:54

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

grassy gnoll posted:

I'm gonna need to paint some metallic reds before long. Am I better served getting VMA metallics in the appropriate colors or just using what I have now with metallic medium?

Actual metallics would be the better approach for most people. I've used Vallejo metallic medium, and it does an ok job - but gives a creamy more hazy satiny metallic as the end result. Which is fine if that's the look you're going for.

Also, consider transparent paints over a silver metallic base. Absurdly easy, with good results.

# ¿ Jul 13, 2016 00:50

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Yeah, that is the cat's pyjamas. Really nice.

# ¿ Jul 13, 2016 02:12

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

grassy gnoll posted:

I'd actually tried a thin glaze over VMA Steel before, and while the parts that worked were almost exactly what I wanted, I wasn't able to get an even coat over a fairly large surface area. Hence asking about colored metallics.

So in that case, what's the secret to good, even glazing technique?

Airbrushing.

I did the same thing to start, just tried brushing it on in thin coats, but it was a no go for me, always being able to see brush strokes, tide marks etc, especially on open flat spaces.

Airbrushing it on in thin coats immediately fixed that for me. I'm sure some other people will have a good answer for manual application, though.

# ¿ Jul 13, 2016 03:19

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

This might seem like a strange request, but I remember somewhere there was a list of 'the best' paint colours from various lines, for instance vallejo had the best/most useful reds, GW washes were good etc.

I'm trying to expand my paint lines beyond Citadel, and would love it if anyone can remember where it was. I've tried searching the forums, but no luck.

# ¿ Jul 26, 2016 00:39

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# ¿ May 10, 2024 08:08

Yeast: Dec 25, 2006; $1900 Grande Latte

Avenging Dentist posted:

You might mean my post, which tries to cover all the popular ranges.

Boom, you nailed it. Thank you so much!

# ¿ Jul 26, 2016 00:45

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