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with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


So this Goblin Blood Bowl team has been with me for 8-10 years, and finally had time, energy and willingness to sit down and start painting them.
First batch of 7 complete.

Really happy with how they turned out.

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with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Thanks for the compliments guys, it's a much needed confidence booster.

That Italian Guy posted:

Awesome gobbos! What's the symbol on the fanatic? Is it a freehand or a stencil?

It's actually the number 7, each of them got this round back plate where I could put their number except for the fanatic who got it on his shoulder pad instead. (And the ball carrier also got it on his chest plate.)
They are water transfers from the Space Wolf sheet. Didn't want to risk going free hand with the numbering, although it might have been a mistake as my shaky hand could fit the goblin theme.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


In October when I got the itch to paint again I used a sculpting tool to open one of those old GW hexagon shaped paint jars, one from the terrible screw cap line not pop up lid type. I did not manage to open it but did push the sculpting tool through my palm. I spent the rest of October transferring my old paints into dropper bottles instead of painting.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


It's hard to follow up all the awesome stuff you guys posting with my old school goblins, but wanted to give a small update on my team before Xmas.
So here is Nobbal Blackwart.


Edit:
Infact here is the whole WIP crew.

with a rebel yell she QQd fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Dec 24, 2015

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


I once drank from my paint water instead of my coke, so now I have a dedicated painting glass thats one of a kind in the apartment. (I also try to paint less black.)

My gobbos are ready for the pitch, now to finish up the other troll and some reserves.


Edit: Still can't decide on a good team name, so open for suggestions!

with a rebel yell she QQd fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Dec 29, 2015

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Geisladisk posted:

poo poo dude, how old are those paints? And are they still good? :stare:

(nice goblins, too)

Half of them are from 1994 and they are all good, I only had to replace Bleached Bone, Chaos Black and Skull White. First one because it was exceptionally good at drying out, other two because of heavy use. How I still have them is I'm guessing a combination of good paints from GW back then (and they came in 17.5ml jars) and even if I don't paint for a long time I open and add some water and a good shake to each of them. I just transfered them to dropper bottles recently, so hope that also extends their life.

I also don't paint that much.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


dmnz posted:

Two more ranks done for my mercenary orc boys unit. I'm calling these guys the Hired Goons.
Shields and banner looted from previous campaigns in the bitsbox Warhammer world.





This is awesome. Please let me know how you do the orc skin!

Edit: Also looking for ways to do black orc skin. Tried 4 different methods so far and not happy with any.

with a rebel yell she QQd fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Jan 1, 2016

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


dmnz posted:

Thanks!
The skin for these guy is a black undercoat, Waagh Flesh, pure Snot Green from an old pot, then something like 50/50 Snot Green / Sunburst Yellow also from an old pot.
This is brighter than I'd usually go for but I feel old models deserve vibrant colors.

I had to experiment with Black orc skin a bit till I found something that I liked.
From memory it was Orkhide Shade (would have been Dark Angles Green but it had run out) then 50/50 Orkhide Shade / Snot Green. Then a touch of pure Snot Green as a vary sparse final highlight.
I'm painting the classic mid 90's Black orc models so again its a bit of a classic color scheme.
It maynot work so well on the recent models.

This is great as I also need it for '93-'94 black orcs/orcs. Now to get a pot of Waagh Flesh on Jan 1st..

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


I'm going to a small Blood Bowl championship tomorrow and decided to make some custom turn/score markers for my undead team I'm attending with.


I needed to quickly paint 2 extra ghouls for the starting lineup, so I decided to touch up the rest of the figures a bit, as I've painted them about 10 years ago and it showed.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


JoshTheStampede posted:

I'm the same. Assembly line painting feels like homework or drudgery, no matter how much I like the models. I don't feel like I am painting.

Pretty much the reason I gave up on my 40k eldar army. Blood Bowl however with its small team sizes is the way to go for me. I try to paint in groups of 5-7 miniatures, two batches like that and you are done with a team and you can go think about your next team and their colours, or paint up some star players / big guys.

Speaking of which, here are the guys I've been working on since I finished the goblin team. There has been some experimenting with skin colours because I really didnt want them to have the same shade of green as the goblins, and taking dmnz's suggestions I ended up with what you see here in the end. (Except the thrower)

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Southern Heel posted:

Amazing and I'm getting some serious retro vibes from this - what was the recipe for the green and the red, please?

For the black orc I just tried to follow dmnz's formula with the colours at hand. Was using white basecoat and then Caliban Green (as my Dark Angels green also took its last breath) a quick wash of Biel-Tan Green, 50/50 Caliban Green / Snot Green, pure Snot Green, and then hitting Snot green with various amounts of Iyanden Darksun.
Rest of the orcs are Waagh Flesh with a Biel-Tan Green wash, and then Waagh Felsh with Iyanden Darksun with more and more % of yellow added.
The red was also an experiment as starting out with Blood Gore / Crimson Gore gave a too dark result. While Blood Red looked more of an orange on them. Final colour was Mephiston Red, light wash of Nuln Oil corrected with Mephiston Red again on the more raised areas, and highlighting was with Blood Red and some Blazing Orange as the top. The photos do seem a bit brighter than the real deal.

I get the retro/old school thing a lot lately, I guess 90s 'Eavy Metal team had most of the influence on me, but I'm far from their skill levels.

Edit: Right still need to cover them with matt varnish, that will bring down the shininess a bit.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Geisladisk posted:



I played a Warmachine game this weekend, and this dude was the MVP. His Warjack was destroyed, which would usually render him pretty worthless, but he just took his big 'ol spear and killed six Bane Knights (spooky skellington guys) by his lonesome. His reward was getting bumped up my "to paint" priority list.

I still need to finish the skin and the spear, but I'm really satisfied with the robe. Usually I look at my painting up close and feel like it's garbage. It's nice to like it for once. Progress!

Just love the cloth!

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Crossposting from the 40k thread, hope that's okay:

I love them, clean, sharp, I'd love to own them. You actually make me want to paint some marines (I haven't painted a marine since 1996 or so!), I got some laying around in the bitzbox might give them a shot.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


nesbit37 posted:

Who knows what this miniature is and where I can get one if its still around? I assume its for Blood Bowl, but I can't find anything on it and since there are enough non-GW places that make Blood Bowl figures still I am wondering if it might be from one of them.



I think I've seen it on http://www.comixininos.com/ worth a try checking.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


head58 posted:

1/4" stainless steel.

Grab a few of those and dump in a small jar of water overnight. See what happens next day.

When I was transferring my paints to dropper bottles I went and bought stainless steel ball bearings at the local bicycle shop ("Of course they don't rust, you cant have that on a bicycle!") After I dumped one in each of my paints I just couldn't rest and left a few of them overnight in some water. Next morning I was greeted by corroded balls in red water. Maybe this is what has been discolouring your paint(s?) as well.

This led me to figure out that the most painless method of removing ball bearings from dropper bottles is with a magnet.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


richyp posted:



I don't know what happened to those models (probably crushed under a box in the garage) otherwise I'd take a side shot of the plasma cannon guy that I cropped out of the image.

How the hell do you paint faces like that. Looking at painting like this I realise how much I suck.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


richyp posted:

code:
Painted head with a brown.
Washed with black, like soaked the hell out of it.
Drybrushed the whole thing with the original brown.
Added the magical Pale Sand(tm) to the brown in very small amounts painting everything but the recesses, over and over.
Add a dot of Pale Sand/Bleached Bone/Ushabti whatever to the eye sockets. 
Washed the face with Agrax, and drop some Nuln oil into the eye sockets. (covers up sloppy paint job and tones down the eyes).
Pick out various prominent features with the last highlight colour (Brown + lots of Pale Sand). You can see in the close up where I brushed this one: cheeks, nose, brow.

Thanks for this, I always have this feeling that I can do zombie skin, orc skin, goblin skin, troll skin. But anything with human skin tones is just magic.
I've been slowly building my human team for Blood Bowl so planing to put this into practice soon enough. Also as I've been striping and preparing Morg 'n' Thorg for priming I started to think, how the hell does one paint stubble? If you guys got any advice, don't hold back!

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


spectralent posted:

Hey everyone; I want to strip some models to remove my terrible first time paint jobs. A few Qs:

1. Will clean spirit remove paints?

2. Will clean spirit remove automotive primer? I used automotive spray primer to base a few of them when I ran out of black spray.

3. Will the clean spirit unglue anything I superglued down?

4. Is it okay on plastics?

I started using spirits to strip paint from models after reading this thread and it works generally good. I usually soak my stuff in it for a night and then run over them with a nail brush. It doesn't seem to damage plastic figures, some minis I had it soaking in there for over a month now, because I couldn't be assed to scrub them.

It wont touch superglue, I had to bring in some acetone to solve that problem. (Whoever suggested it in this thread, love you!) However acetone will most likely melt your plastic, I only tried on white metal figures.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Southern Heel posted:

My first miniature in a few years, and I'm hitting the same block I always do: I feel as though I need to learn techniques, rather than basics - but I don't know HOW to improve:



I usually watch lots of youtube videos from pro painters, I'm not able to copy them but I can try and imitate some of the stuff they do. Back in the day I read a lot of articles about miniature painting (holy poo poo when I first read how to paint chainmail with something called "dry brushing", I had to get a figure just to try it!). So the way to improve is try new stuff, and try spending some extra time on some figures.

Just as an example, a few weeks back someone asked if I put some freehand on my goblins, and I admitted I'm terrible at freehand stuff and just use transfers for numbering.
That got me into pushing my self to try and do freehand numbers. Then move on to do some basic patterns on my orc team. First just some triangles, then some squares but then I didn't want all my guys to have the same squares and triangles and started trying zigzags and arrows and hey I think I'm getting better at this.

Might need to add some pictures for this later!

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


JoshTheStampede posted:

Milliput is my go to for this kind of thing. You can use it like clay or water it down to a slurry to fill smaller pits/cracks.

Can you advise which colour Milliput you use?

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


jadebullet posted:

So I learned something interesting the other day. Apparently, the reason why I paint better with beer in me is that I have an intention tremor. It's some thing where my hand shakes slightly when I reach for something. The tell that it is this type of tremor is that if you have alcohol in your system, it goes away.

Holy poo poo this is great news, I have the same and I thought I'm just an alcoholic. :dance:

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Just need to finish the bases and varnish these two guys, they are going to be my goblin team's cheerleaders.

Still pushing my self to try more freehand stuff, and decided to try painting tartan. It looks more like checkered cloth than tartan tho.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


sugar free jazz posted:

Couple quick questions!

I have this mini from Reaper and I'm trying to strip the paint off of but the primer is really fuckin stuck on there. I used white Rust-Oleum spray paint primer, and denatured alcohol to strip the paint. In the places where I can reach the paint it's easy to scrape off, but in the little recesses and details of the mini I'm having a real hard time getting it clean. Toothbrush doesn't do anything. I'm considering just grabbing a fine sewing needle and going to town but I'm worried that'll damage the mini since it's not an especially hard metal. Any suggestions?

Usually I get the majority of the paint off with denatured alcohol, and then for all the paint still present in the recesses I use a solution which here is sold as "brush cleaner for acrylics". Its 50% xylene, 25% ethyl acetate, 25% isobutanol, and its the motherfuckin holy grail of (metal) miniature paint striping. 30 minutes in this and all paint jumps off the figure. I just run over it with a nail brush and really just 2-3 strokes from all sides is more than enough to remove all paint, and leave you with a shining figure that looks just like new. As I only use it after the denatured alcohol took care of most of the paint, a 100ml bottle has been enough to clean 70-80 figures, and still have lots of it left.

I'm pretty sure however that this solution eats plastic the same way as it eats paint.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Guys I'm thinking about getting a Dremel for making pinning /cutting less painless and trying to find other reasons to justify it.
Can it be used for mould line removal from pewter miniatures or is that just asking for trouble?

Also to post actual content, with the weather being poo poo outside I jumped back to painting and decided its time to start on a long pushed back project of my Slaanesh Blood Bowl team.
Started out with the team big guy minotaur (using an old Keeper of Secrets). I wanted to base it on Hungarian grey cattle, but turned out I'm not that good of a painter to pull it off and the dark snout/horn tips didn't look good on the miniture.
So I guess slight NSFW warning? There is a tit on the following image. Excuse mobile phone pics, the best I could do.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


dexefiend posted:

It hurt so much i dry heaved.

Considering I keep slicing my self every time I get near the xacto knife and a year ago I pushed a sculpting tool through my palm. I guess no dremel for me.
Wife has one of those nail drill thingies, maybe I will give that a try.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Cross posting this guy:



This is great, makes me want to paint something mechanical or at least a vehicle. The lenses are especially great.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Ayn Marx posted:



Rush job to experiment with pre-heresy colors for Space Wolves - is it just me or did I inadvertently paint a wehrmacht space marine :s

I want to paint as clean as you do when you "rush" stuff.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


The Sex Cannon posted:

I finished my first 6 Orc Blood Bowl Players!

I really love these models. Some of the best work I've ever done. Interestingly enough, I find checks to be a lot easier to paint than dags! I though it would be the other way around!

The emblem on their chest plates is a freehand orky maw with red fangs, as the team is called Da Red Fangz. I think the Blitzer is my favorite.

EDIT-I bought one of those Tao lights and it's amazing. Ghost Hand recommended them on his show, and he's right, they're fantastic. I don't know how I painted without one before.

Love them! Can you tell us about the yellow? What paint are you using?
I'm currently painting a Varag, where I planed a small checkered piece, will see how that works out.

Also whats a dag?

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Wirth1000 posted:

This is what the gently caress happened....

First attempt...





And this is the current state of it after I tried to "rescue" it by reapplying a base layer of XV-88 and then layer Tau Light Ochre on the spots but I'm really disappointed with how washed out and muddy (and lovely) it looks.






How on earth is am I actually supposed to use the wash so it really only fills in to the recesses like on his thigh plates? The wash seemed to struggle to get in there or my brushing techinque was off, I don't know. Were the details "clogged" so to say?

At this point I'm looking into how to strip this fucker and start over.

So thing is you are doing the basics right and you trying to "rescue" it is one way to do washing.
You should apply base colour(s) first and then wash the whole thing. Shake the wash well and then apply it with a big brush in one go, dont let it dry in parts while doing the other, cover the whole thing and let it dry for 30 mins. Yes it will make the model look dirty and messy, the lighter your base colour the worst it will look, but once fully dry, you take the base colour you used originally and repaint the figure while avoiding painting the deepest parts where the washes settled the most.
On these Tau models tho, panel lining might be a better method, you basically take a small brush and only paint the wash into the recesses/ lines between the panels, just like if you would follow the lines with a sharpie.
And dont go striping the model, grab another one and try painting that, it will look better trust me.

Also I wold like to add your first mini looks waaaay better than my first one did.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Cross posting from Oath thread.

I want to be able to say that I finished my goblin team, but I really need some Coach figure to paint for them now. Tomorrow with better lights available I'll try to show off the whole team.
Below their latest cheerleader and a ref ready to be bribed.


This is just me trying my hand painting a marine after like 15 years, and it also served as sort of a colour check. All those big flat surfaces, and well defined angles made me enjoy this a lot. Altho I swear this pic makes it look better than it actually is, which is weird.
Will see if I can add some markings etc as SRM suggested to make it not so bland looking.


Also I should probably invest in some simple light box, as these images were made with a lovely mobile phone next to a window as light source.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Been working on the star player addition to my orc BB team for a while now, and decided I'm close enough to finishing that I can show it off.

I present you Varag Ghoul-chewer


And yeah never look at the zoomed in photos of your minis because you will only see mistakes.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Remind me whats the safest method for separating resin super glued to plastic. Should I just throw them in the freezer overnight and try to break?

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


berzerkmonkey posted:

Super Clean will break that bond, but it will take a couple of days. Also, you'll lose your paint job, which you may or may not be concerned about.

Non painted stuff so not a problem but I'm in the EU tho which makes SuperClean an issue. I use a degreaser called Well Done to remove paint but that softens up resin somewhat if left in there for longer periods.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Lethemonster posted:

Welp, here's hoping that enthusiasm lasts until hundreds of Dark Souls models turn up.

Oh man, I forgot I got those coming in as well...

I wish I could at least once in my life have more painted stuff then not. I'm a terrible hoarder, painting with one hand while selling some I will never paint with the other and still somehow the painted ratio never changes.

(Striping and repainting things I did 20 years ago sure doesn't help.)

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Fyrbrand posted:

What is with nerds losing or getting their armies stolen because they store them in vehicles? Jesus every week I hear a story along those lines.

My ex took my 3rd edition 40k starter box, with an extra box of assault marines when we broke up. Which was a really dick move considering she didn't even know how to play 40k or paint. I'M STILL BITTER ABOUT IT

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


berzerkmonkey posted:

WIP for Adepticon - a bit of fine tuning and the bases left to go. As usual, I'm going down to the wire on this...


Hurr hurr hurr


These are great, everything Necromunda is great, and everything Necromunda needs hazard stripes bases!

berzerkmonkey posted:

I was going to go crazy with basing, but after looking at things realistically, I'm going with the same Zone Mortalis type bases I did with my Escher.


And I need to paint my own Escher now.... WITH HAZARD STRIPES BASES

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


berzerkmonkey posted:

Crosspost from the SG thread:

Allow me to present "The Burger Boys"



Go Burger Boys! Love em!

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


ijyt posted:

Got some more work done last weekend, much happier with it compared to what it was when I started.



How on earth.... Thats fuckin amazing. Only thing that would make it better is weird hosed up goat eyes.

:worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship::worship:

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


So I've been traveling and unable to paint for 3 weeks, but spent my time reading about it, and decided I'll try to deviate from the same painting style I've been following for decades.
I limited the paints used to 5 colours plus a wash and a metallic, and started mixing more heavily on a wet palette. The test figures became my Necromantic Blood Bowl team, some of them my oath for this month.
Really cant decide on the bases yet. Dark graveyard earth mixed with some clay look? Do I use some texture paint or fine sand/baking soda? Torn on what would go well with the current scheme and how I could compliment the whole feel they are giving off.

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with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


wdarkk posted:

Can you safely put plastic that was clipped off a sprue in a sonic cleaner? I want to redo some stuff I painted where I messed up a bit with gloss medium and I was wondering if I could use my sonic cleaner to speed it up. The warning that it can damage soft gemstones like emerald gave me some pause. I assume it's a really bad idea to use it with resin.

I use it for plastic and resin miniatures without issues. For some reason it cleans resin way better than plastic for me, probably something to do with how paint adheres to resin I guess.
It can weaken glue, but thats about it in my experience.

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