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Okay so I've found everything I need for my jungle bases except one thing, Monkeys , I cannot find realistic simian 28mm monkey's anywhere they're all cool Monkey with a Gun, Monkey with a Hat, Monkey with a Hat and A gun. I want some realistic monkey's , I want to add them to some terrain pieces. So has anyone ever come across any 28mm monkeys or have any suggestions on where to buy them? Hollismason fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 00:20
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Yeah their miniature pack has one or two, I picked up a good many familiar packs from them as they've got some cool little animals in there . I'm looking more for like a in motion or dynamic range. I'll recheck them though. I forget just how large Reaper's catalogue is.
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Mar 20, 2015 01:39
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Yeah I know which one you're talking about. I think I'm gonna try looking into those cheap plastic animals, sure I can find something of a approximation. While searching Reaper I did come across this guy http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Chronoscope/latest/50031 and immediately impulse bought it. Also people complain about miniature prices, but I've been going through train Scenery stuff and holy poo poo is this train stuff expensive. 1/64th is 28mm isn't it? Hollismason fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Mar 20, 2015 |
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Mar 20, 2015 02:39
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Is it okay to talk about casting in the thread or not, because I've been trying to downsize some specific models and am having no success getting anywhere with it.
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Mar 28, 2015 23:06
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berzerkmonkey posted:Casting is ok, recasting, not so much. What do you mean "downsize?" As in reduce the scale? Basically I'm trying to down size a scarab model by like 50% to 75% or more I'm not trying to sell it or anything else I'm doing it for a diorama because I want to try and have a big modeling project for the next few months to work on and relax , I want see how far down and how small I can make it with recasting because I want tiny scarabs and my sculpting skills are not really that great. I mean I cna sort of sculpt them myself but they really don't come out how I want. I'd also though of possibly 3D printing smaller tiny models but that's a whole nother thing. My idea is that with the Scarabs I do have I'll be able to make a "wave" out of these smaller Scarabs and form them into a "wave" that the larger scarabs would be riding in part of the diorama and base. I'm using a flying base as the diorama so like my flight stands would be dioramas. Just a big giant project to invest time in. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 23:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:Dayummm. That is really sweet, man. I thought specifically there was in fact a substance that you could cast in that reduced in size after a while. I thought this was how miniatures could be sculpted at a larger scale then downcast. I'm pretty sure it exists... Sauer posted:I used to paint minis years ago and have been mostly doing scale models for the past couple years. I've had the urge recently to work on minis again especially since my tool and skill set has greatly expanded since the last time I did a minis. Looking at the prices of GW's stuff just about made me poo poo my pants though. For the price of a single "command unit" army man I could pick up an imported 1/35 scale Tamiya tank that would take weeks to work on. Is GW making their kits and minis out of polymerized cocaine? Is there a source of good quality fantasy style miniatures that I could work on that won't completely bust the bank for a few ounces of polystyrene? I'm pretty out of the loop when it comes to mini manufacturers these days. Well it's a good time to get back in if you want to paint miniatures, Reaper just released a fairly inexpensive miniature line Bone, and do to 3d printers, developements in casting technologies there are more 3rd party or independent miniature companies than you can shake a stick at. You should check out this range of miniatures from Reaper. http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones A fantastic range, diverse, and well done. I recommend them and Goons go nuts over them. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 03:49
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I think he just wants to pain Fantasy Miniatures, so I'd say Bones from Reaper is the best bang for the buck and quality out there. Follow my post in the previous one to Reaper mini, it's fantastic stuff.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:54
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I've had no issue with the Bones miniatures, I dunno what you mean by weird? Just seems normal to me after I prime them.
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Mar 30, 2015 03:55
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You only get high as titties, Also I recommend the Dragons from the Bone series and all the really big stuff it's relatively cheap and easy going when it comes to painting. You'll have a lot of fun especially with the bigger models. They're great.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:02
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Sauer posted:Is it polystyrene or something else they've developed? There's a FAQ on that website, I don't care what they say I always prime with a super thin coat. It's a good material but as stated super thin things like spears can come bent but it's like a few seconds to fix that with some hot water and cold water. I've personally never had any issues with it.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:31
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I'll email the company and see what their thoughts on it are that Hydrospan after some researching seems to do alright with small models and reducing the size by 60% , the alternative of getting them printed to me at least seems more cost prohibitive, along with the fact that I need a 3D file. I'll try and find a smaller amount of the stuff for sale and mess around with it. The model itself is not very detailed. Okay thanks for the help this will be a good project.
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Mar 30, 2015 14:06
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Yeah but since I'm just concerned mainly with making them smaller I don't think it's that a issue. I just wanna see how small I can make them, plus with a model that doesn't have a detailed figure, I think it'll be alright. I know something like that existed, I just could not for the life of me remember the name. Still looking around for some better prices but it's not that expensive anyway.
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Mar 30, 2015 14:49
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Oh and speaking of just insane things, how crazy would it be to paint a miniature using Watercolour pencils then a light spray of Zest it to dissolve the wax to blend. To late I already bought a full set of water colours and zest it because I am a crazy person.GaistHeidegger posted:Had the chance to sit down and go busting out with the airbrush setup this weekend finally--and after running through a few tests with water and then paint with cardboard and paper towels, decided to take a stab at the giant pile of orcs that came streaming in with Reaper Bones back a ways. I can definitely see it's going to take a fair bit of practice to get a hang of the feel of things (and the right consistency of paint to airbrush medium) and can already feel myself hankering for getting a set of Vallejo Air paint, but all-in-all I can also certainly see why folks really dig airbrush painting--especially for belting out multiple miniatures. This sounds like two possible situations 1. It's a compressor problem and you're getting a uneven flow of air. 2. It's a paint problem and your paint may need a thinner added to it. I would try the 2nd first and see what the results are and for the first you can actually get a gauge I think that measures super accurately for your flow. I will try and find the one I have and list it. It's more accurate than the tank read out some times and measures the pressure at the end of the hose. Like for example you don't know it but you are getting irregular flow because you have a small leak somewhere or something like that etc... Also you may be letting it just sit there to long or something. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 16:09
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He could also be getting a good read out on the compressor but there may be a small leak somewhere in the hose or in a ring or something like that which is reducing the pressure or giving irregular pressure. Voted disassemble, clean, check hose etc.. then thin paints and see what results are.
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Mar 30, 2015 16:16
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Hey, since you have experience with model airplanes, have you ever used any of the buffable chrome stuff? Was considering trying out some of that on my necrons. I know it's mostly for planes and cars though.
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Mar 30, 2015 21:22
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GMarshal posted:So I'm poo poo at painting. I just recently bought some Sternguard and would like for them to be less poo poo than my other models. Seeing as my current painting technique is best described as "throw some paint over black primer", what are some basic techniques to avoid having models I'm ashamed to bring out? I'm going with an iron hands colour scheme, and can include pictures if they'd be of any use, although seeing how bad I am, its kind of embarrassing. First up your models are not bad, their just bright and could use with first off thinning of the paints!! So good news on that. 2nd it looks like you're priming to close to the model. If that is just straight primer. It also seems on the uneven brush strokes. I'm not a super amazing painter either by any stretch but over the years I've learned a bunch of tricks to make my stuff look great/ decent. Iron Hands is Black And Grey from what I see, so here's my suggesting buy a coloured penciled like grey etc. get a smooth tip on it meaning it doesn't have a sharp edge and use it to edge your model. It's a lot easier than using a brush and gives you more control. I'd recommend a soft lead , pencil , there are specific art pencils for this. The next tape!! Tape is your friend when you are starting out. Like for instance that chest piece with the eagle, get some blue painters tape, apply it to a smooth service and pull it up a few times to get rid of some of the tack. Then tape over the chest piece. Or tape around it this helps with getting mixed colours on the black if you find you aren't getting a steady hand. It also helps with other parts if you are getting slippage and unclean lines. So tape can be your friend starting out and it's a skill you'll want to develop of being able to tape off and paint. Next up Kiddy Grips!! for paint brushes Remember in High school or middle school where you had those objects that would go onto a pencil that you were writing on? They make those for paint brushes, you can buy them at Michaels or just make your own by getting them for pencils and padding the brush. This makes the brush easier to grip and for me gives a steadier hand I actually still use these as I have some arthritis in my hands. So those are my tips. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Mar 30, 2015 |
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Mar 30, 2015 23:19
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You can get away with a lot if you stick to getting very very basic things right, they won't hold up to scrutiny like 4 inches away but they'll look good across the battlefield. My favourite thing right now is just highlighting with soft lead pencils. They come in a variety of colours and you can buy them in metallic. You can also use a simple lead pencil for weathering. Very simple things can give a basic paint job a fantastic look. Here's a quick test, do you have a pencil at your house just a normal pencil? Take it and run it across a black edge on the model flat side down. That's it there's nothing else to that technique. Techniques can get you very far. Skill comes into play in different area but you can have good technique and make a great model. As you use techniques you build skill. That's just my personal philosophy. I have shakey hands due to nerve damage as well as arthritis, the technique I developed was finding something larger to hold onto, a technique. The other was to use a method, Air Brushing. It's easier for me to hold as it's larger and my hands don't cramp. I can't paint fine detail my hands shake to bad when gripping but through the use of techniques and methods , I've been able to produce some cool stuff ( this is also why I paint Necrons and Dark Eldar, their easy as not a lot of "faces") Hollismason fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 01:03
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Highlighting the edges with gold works well.
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Mar 31, 2015 01:21
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Yeah they all look amazing, great work on that cloak. Wouldn't mind seeing more of the one in red.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:06
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"Rushed" I don't think that word means what you think it means, that looks really good.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:26
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Black Rims for Life, don't waste the paint don't paint the base. ( Snow Bases are okay I guess, or Old School).
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Mar 31, 2015 02:38
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It also to my eye looks terrible when you are looking down at the miniature on the table top.
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Mar 31, 2015 02:50
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Vallejo Air and Vallejo Metallic Air is the best airbrush paints I've ever used and I would never ever go back to anything else. Hell, Vallejo anything is usually really amazing. I am almost exclusively a Vallejo nut.
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Apr 1, 2015 04:21
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Really great tutorial on glowing green slime bases that was on Dakkadakka, but he has his own site. http://kriswallminis.blogspot.com/2015/02/green-slime-basing-tutorial.html Uses glow in the dark Elmer's Glue of all things . I think the results are pretty impressive. 
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Apr 1, 2015 17:15
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Was this article arleady in the OP I don't see it anyway another guide to blending, or The slow descent into madness http://www.spikeybitsblog.com/2013/08/feathering-and-blending-vs-wet-blending.html
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Apr 2, 2015 05:50
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Please don't use household products like floor shine, windex, and any other product you'd use in your kitchen through your airbrush. If you use Vallejo paints, use Vallejo Thinner and Cleaner, if you use another brand use that brands thinner and cleaner. They're specifically formulated to deal with and work best with that specific paint. Sorry to nitpick. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 23:32
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serious gaylord posted:Theres nothing wrong with using that stuff in an airbrush. Please don't try and promote things that are just not true. It can damage your airbrush if you don't know what you are doing or use the wrong product. Varnishes especially can turn your airbrush into a useless brick if you use the wrong type and do not clean it out properly. That statement is 100% true. If you use the correct chemicals in your airbrush you won't damage it. If you want to save 4 dollars and possibly ruin your airbrush because some Windex knockoff product has a chemical that is possibly corrosive then that's a bad thing. You will never go wrong with using products designed for airbrushes by airbrush companies for usage in a airbrush, in your airbrush. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Apr 2, 2015 |
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Apr 2, 2015 23:43
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If you use that floor polish in your airbrush and then use a product for cleaning out airbrush varnish it can damage your airbrush.Again you'll very rarely go wrong with putting air brush products designed for airbrushes in your airbrush. Not pushing a brand , Vallejo was an example. I've made that mistake of using a product that damaged a airbrush I had. That's all.
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Apr 2, 2015 23:48
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I'm just suggesting caution and due diligence when doing it that's it. Also I think I misread it anyway and he's just painting it on.
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Apr 2, 2015 23:52
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Big_G just did great example of salt weathering for a plane he built that I am stealing, I suggest that method. I wanna try it out on some Necron Models.
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Apr 3, 2015 00:43
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I'm not advocating anything other than be careful with your poo poo, and yes I am nitpicky about my airbrush. It's more about using offbrand items or other stuff that has chemicals in it that you do not know about that damage it, that's it.
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Apr 3, 2015 01:55
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If you actually want to use a organic and enviro-friendly product to clean your airbrush you can use Citrus Solvent.
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Apr 3, 2015 14:03
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Freaky Friday https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UShtvCen6So Has anyone used Testors Aluminium buffable metallic medium? Or any of their products , I've never bought anything from them. Hollismason fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Apr 3, 2015 |
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Apr 3, 2015 18:40
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It's actually at 97 dollars right now with free shipping on Amazon.
Hollismason fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Apr 4, 2015 |
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Apr 4, 2015 03:31
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I'd really suggest using one of those Amazon Trackers then. It looks like though there's a good stock left but with that price who knows.
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Apr 4, 2015 04:21
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Does anyone know of any decently priced "quiet" or sound suppressed air compressor, mines not super loud but it's loud enough and I'd like to get something with less noise but a good price.
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Apr 4, 2015 05:02
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Before spending to much, I'm going to try Bulbasaur's suggestion of a box to cover it , I have a left over sound panel so I'll use that to make a box and see if that works. Thanks for the help. Has anyone here used any of the Alclad series of lacquers and finishes for models? Little wary of using this stuff as apparently it is super toxic.
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Apr 4, 2015 18:07
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Cool thanks, I'll probably invest in a good ventilation system as well that I've seen floating around instead of the cardboard box and fan system I'm using now. I was more interested in their smoke series and Tamiyas smoke series for that neat transparent look. Got any examples of their stuff on miniatures? All I have found are planes and such.
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Apr 4, 2015 18:28
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I thought it was 28mm as well at first glance. Currently searching the internet for 40k figures painted with different mediums to look at results. Specifically air vehicles. If anyone has any please share.
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Apr 4, 2015 23:33
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The cheapest would be probably to get just a large poster with grids on it then go and get it laminated at Kinkos. I've used those before, at most you're going to spend like 10 bucks. You can even email the grid to Kinkos and they'll print it at what size you want and laminate it for you for a small fee. That's the most cost effective is just getting a big laminated piece at Kinkos since they have the big giant laminating machines.
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Apr 6, 2015 02:29
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