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Fyrbrand posted:Cool I'll be the guy to immediately follow a bunch of amazing models with my own weak sauce I still think the Kriegers are my best painted stuff yet.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 16:46 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:03 |
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Crossposting from the 40k thread since it's getting embroiled in Eldar chat. Making some progress with my Scions at last by just following GW's video painting guide even. Although I'm not sure if I wanna go into the highlighting stage or not once I've finished the base colours because I kinda like the muted colours that I've got with them right now.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 20:47 |
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SRM posted:So highlight them with muted colors. Also did you prime with gloss? Yeah that sounds like a plan, and no that's just the LED lights I've got at my painting workshop that does that to the basecoat for some reason.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 21:07 |
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signalnoise posted:Too simple? Nothing wrong with keeping things simple I say. Looks good to me.
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# ¿ May 5, 2015 01:21 |
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spectralent posted:I kind of want to do a digital camo scheme on some near-future sci fi vehicles I'm painting; something like this. There are places who sell digicam stencils but that's really only for Airbrush usage so I don't know how much use you'll get out of those with brushes.
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2015 01:06 |
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Gumdrop Larry posted:http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart http://www.scaleworld.info/#!page2/cjg9 I found this site a while ago that has the GW paints as well as covering other paint ranges if you want replacement or similar colours.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2015 19:39 |
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I think I'm going to take back any idea of getting more ebay rescue projects because my first one is proving to be a sheer hell. This is how a Leman Russ chassi I got a while ago looks like after three weeks in a pure green soap bath aside from periods where I've gone at it with an toothbrush which has only helped to gotten rid of the first layer of paint apparently. So does anyone have any better ideas for paint stripping that can be acquired in the EU that might help me get rid of the rest of it?
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2015 14:02 |
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Zark the Damned posted:Brown Dettol hasn't failed me yet. Not sure if it's in the rest of the EU but it's certainly here in the UK. So this is what you mean with Brown Dettol I assume? SRM posted:This is what we Warhams know as "terrain" Tempting but I have a spare FW Vanquishier turret that is badly screaming for a chassi of its own. Now this on the other hand is terrain. Or a possible sacrifice to the dark gods.
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2015 17:03 |
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Raphus C posted:Dettol works. I used it to strip 100s of Orks I obtained from ebay. It can take a while and you have to be careful to avoid the goop - avoid mixing with water when scrubbing the paint off as it can turn it into some weird sludge poo poo that I would expect to see oozing from some mysterious barrel. I believe I heard something in the lines of that being mentioned during a previous paint stripping discussion. Guess I'll order a bottle at some point then. Should I dilute it somehow or just chuck the entire bottle inside a container of some sort like I do with green soap?
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2015 17:42 |
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Progress shots of my Blood Raven Scions. Turns out that using Red Gore instead of Wazdakka Red for edge highlight didn't work at all because it's barely noticeable unless you look in really close. Especially over Scab red which turns really dark after getting a Devlan Mud wash.
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2015 15:57 |
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SRM posted:Old Red Gore is basically the same color as Khorne Red. Highlight it with Mephiston Red, I did for my Dark Angels's weapon casings. It's not as bright as Wazdakka Red but it'll still be noticeable. Oh good, Mechrite red. I have a couple of pots of that. I'll give that a whirl before ordering the updated paints.
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2015 19:31 |
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SRM posted:Mephiston Red, not Mechrite Red. Mechrite Red is a gross nail polishy purplish mauve poo poo color with bad coverage. Mephiston Red is actually decent. Ooookay. Guess I'll order that from the flgs or something because none of the stores I live have all the paints anyway. Although I'm pretty sure the Mechrite red pots I have aren't as bad as that.
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2015 19:50 |
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Star Man posted:If it weren't for that base, this would look like it was a still from a movie. Crop the image at the his knees, add some flying shell casing and muzzle flash, make it black & white and you have a Forgeworld picture.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2015 19:39 |
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SRM posted:I've finished up the first transport for The Blood Axes! I call it Da Scrumvee: I'd almost go with Scrumtrack.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2015 01:43 |
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SRM posted:Scrumtrack is only one letter off from Scruntrack, which is a mental image I really don't need. Yeah I admit my mind wandered in a very similar direction after I had posted that.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2015 03:01 |
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Silhouette posted:VMC Black-Grey + black wash = instant black with depth I get the feeling I'd run out of wash if I used that technique when I'm going to start painting an Inquisitorial APC. Then again, not sure how well that would work on large almost flat surfaces.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2015 02:34 |
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SRM posted:Don't wash whole vehicles. You'll get some really gross pooling that won't actually make your model look weathered and dirty, it'll just make it look like poo poo. Use wash strategically around rivets and raised details and use it to shade the recesses of the model only, then clean it up with the base color. Yeah I figured something like that would happen if I was going to use that technique.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2015 09:41 |
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That looks pretty ace if anything.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2015 00:40 |
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I've got a Hobby zone shelf for most of my paints. The rest are tucked away in a couple of boxes here and there in my room. But that's the stuff I rarely use so. Can take a photo of it later.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2015 15:40 |
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ijyt posted:KR Multicase 4 ever. Thirdin' this
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# ¿ Dec 22, 2015 09:13 |
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Gapey Joe Stalin posted:Biostrip20 is the best thing you can buy for stripping models. Non-toxic, non-irritant, sink flushable. Seriously, don't be a wally, be hip. Biostrip! I am convinced by the jingle alone. Go figure if I'd be able to find it over here () though thinking about it.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2016 17:24 |
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Would anyone happen to know the best GW equivalent for Plastic Soldier Companies British Tank Warspray? I got it to speed up the painting of my tanks a little but I can't figure out what GW colour to use for touch ups and such.
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2016 22:54 |
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Avenging Dentist posted:Try a VMC paint? They're going to have a waaay better selection of WWII military colors. 70.924 (Russian Uniform WWII) is supposedly a good match for WWII-era British armor. Oh yeah, for a second I thought I had already bought it but I guess not. Will have to do that at some point then.
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# ¿ Jan 29, 2016 01:19 |
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I wanted to get my rear end in gear with some older projects just so I don't wear myself out on painting nothing but Marines and while I'm waiting for some colours for a Mordheim Warband. So I decided to restart work on a Chimera I've had lying about for a long rear end time now. So I rebased it using PSC WW2 British Armor green to cover my lack of Castellan green. But I'm not too sure what to use for edge highlight colour for it to make it pop a bit more later on. Also, any easy weathering tricks that I can use to spruce it up a little very encouraged as well.
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2016 19:16 |
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So how many times do you still mix up the two cups? Continuing with the paint station posting.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2016 16:48 |
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Pierzak posted:Not mine, I just found it and it looked relevant. But saying from my experience labeling doesn't help, the coffee's still going to get brushes dipped in even with dedicated painting station and brush cups. Yeah I rarely tend to drink whenever I paint and whenever I do I tend to have the glass pretty far away from the painting station regardless to avoid that.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2016 17:05 |
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A pair of WIP shots of the Chimera I'm working on right now but I'm not too sure if Elysian Green is the colour I should go for when it comes to edge highlighting it or if I should go for a darker green. It is also frustrating to discover that the PSC British tank spray colour and VMC 924 Russian Uniform are in slightly different tones which makes any spot repairs noticeable.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2016 14:26 |
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So I'm starting to find myself in need of some new brushes, primarily for edge highlighting as the small brushes I have can't seem to keep their tip for long enough. I was thinking of Ichiban brushes from Games & Gears but 35 pound price tag is kind of hefty. But what other alternatives are there? Aside from just getting GW brushes or something.
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2016 19:24 |
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signalnoise posted:For what it's worth I really like my Ichiban brushes, but when they're capped they're usually too small for most brush holders i've used. Yeah one of the guys running the FLGS in town recommended them and they've been in and out of stock on their website whenever I've checked so I am tempted. Biggest issue with the Series 7 is probably pricing as well since the GBP has never been that nice to the Swedish Krona in exchange rates. Also no real package deals it seems on their site. Otherwise all I find is either Citadel, Army Painter, da Vinci or Kolinsky brushes in most online stores. Which I guess is a given.
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2016 22:35 |
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So it turns out the G&G brushes are, aside from grabbing generic Kolinsky brushes, my only other option because it turns out that Winson & Newton doesn't ship to Scandinavia. They apparently ship to everywhere else in the world though. Except Australia and New Zealand. And Scandinavia. How the gently caress does that even work?
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2016 16:21 |
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Frobbe posted:https://www.faraos.dk Sells them, theyll probably ship to you. It is where i bought mine anyway Oh nice. Much appreciated. berzerkmonkey posted:Embargoes, for some reason or another. Have you tried Amazon, or perhaps a Euro-goon who might be able to get them for you and ship them over? Personally, I'd try that before purchasing a G&G brush. Amazon is really really shakey I know from experience. They also don't tell you which retailers ship outside their country until the last step. Which is incredibly frustrating. But yeah, I had a friend in the UK who offered to ship them to me if I wanted to so there is that option as well.
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2016 17:10 |
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FoulWeatherFriend posted:Here ya go buddy. Huh, neat. But ow that pricing per brush. In that case I'd have to settle for just a 0 or 1 size brush and then order some Rosemary & Co brushes as well on the side.
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2016 19:05 |
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. Finally finished the Chimera I've had since I bought the Armoured Fist box during the last codex update. This was pretty much just edge highlighting practice for me after getting the new brushes and I still need to get better at it and to even out my lines. Also using that green colour as base was a bad idea as I couldn't touch up mistakes without things being noticeable due to differences in colour tone.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2016 16:57 |
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Frobbe posted:Again, these are done with an iPhone 6S. I do own a really nice camera, but it's way easier to just upload from my phone to my PC via dropbox or similar, i then do a quick WB edit in Picasa (I'm feeling lucky) and away we go! Yeah, while I own a pretty good camera and a lightbox I just tend to snap a quick but as decent as possible shot of something I just completed with my Nexus 4 camera alongside a white backdrop and a couple of extra lights. As it's honestly quicker to do so for a quick "Look what I finished" thing than finding space for a lightbox and tripod and camera. Granted I tend to make sure the image looks decently light and isn't a blurry mess but that's about the extent of it.
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# ¿ Apr 8, 2016 17:03 |
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Does anyone have any experience in working with the type of resin that the Raging Heroes people use for their stuff? I have two models that I'm going to paint but even after two baths in warm water and dish washing soap they still feel a bit too glossy for me to believe they've been degreased enough. Should I give them a third bath and then go to town with an old toothbrush like with you do with Forgeworld resin or try basecoating them anyway?
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2016 15:00 |
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. When not dancing to the heaviest of beats, Technoviking fights to purge the universe of Xenos and Heretics. The first of at least three more officers that I'm working on.
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2016 15:45 |
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Crossposting from the 40k thread. First model of May finished and it's also the second model I finished this week. I'm on a very vague roll here. Also Scion heads work really well on Cadian bodies once you've cut down their neck bulge a little. Only one officer left to do for now.
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# ¿ May 1, 2016 16:18 |
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berzerkmonkey posted:Here's the problem: you buy cheap, you're going to keep putting money into brushes that crap out after a few sessions. You're going to (shortly) get to a point where if you had just spent a few extra bucks on a good brush and some brush soap, you would have saved money. A W&N Series 7 size 1 brush is $20 USD. I do most of my painting with this brush. If you go crazy and get a size 0, you'll have spent $40 for two brushes that will last you for a long time. The Series 33 Rosemary & Co brushes is a good option too. Bought them at a recommendation from this thread and they have worked perfectly.
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# ¿ May 16, 2016 16:18 |
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cyberia posted:It's one of the Raging Heroes 'Toughest Girls of The Galaxy' models. Specifically 'Natasha Kurganova, Coms Operator'. As a somewhat unrelated side note regarding the Raging Heroes stuff you should be extra thorough with the cleaning because their release agent is surprisingly hard to get rid off if you follow their instructions. I think I gave mine three different baths and scrubbing sessions with a toothbrush and the primer just flaked off because I hadn't gotten rid of the stuff.
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# ¿ Jun 26, 2016 14:34 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:03 |
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Finished five Fenrisian Wolves to be used for Wood Elf hunting hounds tonight. Sorry for lovely tablet picture.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2016 21:59 |