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 So I've been looking to paint some winter themed wood elves for a while now but haven't been able to settle on a paint scheme until I spotted the colour variants in one of the older army books. However I'm not too sure what other colours it uses aside from The Fang and Karak Stone. Anyone have an inkling of what colours I should just that would be similar to the picture or just generally complement the colour theme it has going for it?
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Aug 14, 2016 22:19
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Slimnoid posted:The dark brown looks like it'd be Scorched Brown/Rhinox Hide, with a khaki highlight. The gray loincloth and patches of armor look like The Fang with a light gray highlight, probably done with a 50/50 mix of the two before going straight to light gray. Elf skintone is whatever fair skin color you prefer (typically Cadian Fleshtone > Kislev Flesh > white). Worth a try, much appreciated. 
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Aug 15, 2016 00:32
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SRM posted:These guys are where you want to go: Oh man, those vehicle camo stencils look so great and I'd love to use them to dolly up my Russes and other vehicles. Until I realize I don't have an airbrush which makes getting them kind of moot I guess.
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Sep 12, 2016 22:48
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SRM posted:You can use em with regular sprays too when you're basing stuff. I'd get a couple cans of brown, green, and black sprays and go to town. That is true. Even if I'd probably just go with black over green since that's what my vehicles are based with.
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Sep 13, 2016 02:02
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mango sentinel posted:Does anyone do lady heads for IG soldiers? Either Victoria as NTRabbit mentioned or Statuesque miniatures.
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Sep 18, 2016 21:25
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Yvonmukluk posted:I have a quick question about the Plastic Soldier Company sprays: are they supposed to be like Army Painter Colour Primers where you just spray them on the plastic, or do the minis need to be primed first? I'm looking into getting some for Flames of War/Bolt Action. The former. I've used PSC British Armor for some stuff and it's pretty much a primer.
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Oct 9, 2016 19:31
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 My Winter themed Wood Elf army for AoS has finally gotten its first unit completed. This was the first time I've painted this many models at the same time and I still have five more soaking in soap for a scrubbing and repaint. Also apologies for lovely tablet picture. Turns out the battery on my proper camera had lost its charge completely. But painting those last five comes later, now I want to paint something a lot more fun. Mostly because I'm incredibly bored of painting some of the dullest filler models ever.
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Oct 17, 2016 16:03
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Crossposting from the 40k thread.  The Leman Russ previously known as the "Retributions Fist" suffered massive damage during fighting against the Great Enemy, which saw the majority of its armaments destroyed and crew slain, but it was later salvaged and re-purposed as a Leman Russ Vanquisher. Now named "The Emperor's Little Bastard" or simply "The Bastard" due to one tech-priest having declared that it had been an absolute bastard to clean and repair at one point. Or so the rumour goes at least. So for something that looked like this at one point   I'd say it's a rather remarkable turnaround. Not that I ever really want to pick up another Ebay rescue tank again. If I ever want to get another Forgeworld Leman Russ I am almost buying an entire kit instead of just a turret.
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Nov 13, 2016 18:31
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ijyt posted:Absolutely never buy White Scar, but Ceramic White is fantastic. I've got the inverse in this case. My White Scar pot has some slight separation to it but both my Ceramic White are just lumpy messes that requires some heavy stirring to even get usable.
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Dec 15, 2016 20:33
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SRM posted:Ceramite White has amazing coverage but it's a much thicker paint. You need to thin the pot pretty often to keep it form getting lumpy and lovely. White Scar is really thin comparatively. Yeah I guess that makes sense and something I'll have to keep in mind for the future. Even if I probably just end up using Ulthulan Grey in its stead.
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Dec 15, 2016 21:52
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Slimnoid posted:Or, as some industrious people like to do: stick the model on the end of a drill bit, put in a hole in a box, and make it spin for a few seconds. Makes it dry quicker and prevents the stain from pooling. For some reason that just sounds absolutely hilarious to me.  I mean I get it works but something about it just makes me laugh amusedly.
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Dec 28, 2016 03:11
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Chill la Chill posted:It's because lots of things can go in a hole in a box. And spin. Well done. 
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Dec 28, 2016 03:38
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So I'm building a Space Wolves dreadnought for a friend and I'm wondering what's the best way to magnetize it so it can be used as a Murderfang and Bjorn as well? I could only really find one really awful Youtube guide on how to do it from a casual search.
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Feb 3, 2017 13:19
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ijyt posted:Hahaha "Chief Calibrating Officer". Getting me one of those. Yeah that was pretty much my reaction to seeing the name for the Garrus mini.
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Feb 23, 2017 00:55
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Zark the Damned posted:The vast majority of the time I've had no issue priming Bones with Army Painter black. Only issue I've had is on a handful of models I primed and let sit for a few months before getting around to painting, some long-term reaction made the primer shiny and slightly tacky. Still took paint fine though. Reminds me of when I primed a couple of raging heroes models with AP Black primer. Looked fine and then the thing just started flaking off like crazy to the point I could just rub a finger over it and it would slough off without issue. Not sure if that was me not properly cleaning their funky resin or the primer being shonky. Need to retry with Citadel Black primer at some point and see if it produces the same result or not. Which is annoying because the ones I bought are kind of massive pains to remove the release agents from.
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Mar 22, 2017 01:26
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So as my current project, a Blood Raven Contemptor Dreadnought, is almost finished I realize I can't really leave the base unfinished. Unlike the smaller ones that I'm not too bothered by a black baseplate the 60mm one is a bit too big and noticeable to let that go by. But the problem is I still haven't nailed down exactly what kind of base theme I want to get running for all my guys. This including my slowly growing Blood Raven force as well as my previous IG units. Does anyone have any suggestions for bases that look uniformly good with these:  Warhammer TV did have a nice Wasteland base guide they released yesterday but not sure if that brown works well with the red marines and the black/green Guardsmen.
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Apr 13, 2017 15:34
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I'd say the brown wasteland style would be perfect, actually. Guess I'll have to buy some texture and dry paints then.
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Apr 13, 2017 19:20
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I've been trying to get the hand of proper paint thinning recently as I usually just dry to keep the brush wet or damp and then just go for as small amounts of paint on it. Which probably horribly dumb and kind of a crapshoot in results. Strange admission, I haven't actually gotten the hang of how to proper pull off that paint onto the palette via the brush without feeling like I smear far too much paint onto the brush. To the point I keep looking at Duncan's videos just to try to get a hang of it.  Also probably need a better palette and a piece of plasticard as well.
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Apr 16, 2017 02:36
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I have a pair of the old plastic handle cutters and they're pretty nice to use. But I imagine they're impossible to get these days anyway. The new ones feel a bit too slippery because there's zero grip on the metal handles.
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May 1, 2017 02:38
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So I went out and picked up a bunch of rocks to be used on bases today but what's the best way to clean them? Boil them in water/Rinse them with boiling water or just bake them in an oven for a while?
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May 3, 2017 15:30
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berzerkmonkey posted:Did you dig them out of dog poop? Other than maybe rinsing off the dirt, I don't see a need to disinfect them. Better to be safe than sorry I figured but I figure a warm water rinse will be sufficient.
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May 3, 2017 16:18
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Crossposting time. Blood Raven Contemptor Dreadnought finally based and finished.  Surprisingly nice job even if I couldn't pose all that interestingly since I got it pre-assembled. Finished painting it a couple of weeks ago and just been waiting to base it. Decided to go with a glass wasteland instead of going with rocks. Had picked up a whole bunch of polished pieces of glass near the beach that I thought would've looked great. Funny enough green pieces when applied to a base makes them look a bit like Tiberium Crystals. Need to remember not to thin out the texture paint as much for next time. Had that happen to another test model.
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May 6, 2017 15:57
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Yeast posted:I've bought a paint shaker, because gently caress me they need it. I could almost need a paint shaker for some of my GW paints. Feels like I'm wearing out my arm trying to get some of them back in liquidy form even with splashing in some water. Need to find a place that sells pipettes as well I think.
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May 11, 2017 21:48
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Yeast posted:I'd also put in a tiny bit of either airbrush flow improver, or something similar. just a drop or two each time you need to re-energize the paint. Would GW's Lahmian Medium be good for this or am I looking for more proper stuff in this case? I do have a bunch of actuator steel balls actually but I'm not sure they're good for citadel paints and more VMC.
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May 12, 2017 00:28
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Yeast posted:You're after something that will actually thin/improve the movement of the pigment through the pot. - So thinners/flow improvers / water Aight, I'll keep that in mind then.
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May 12, 2017 02:57
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I tried using an old bottle of Dark Angels Ink to speed up painting some trees, turns it was a bad idea because that thing was incredibly dark and pigment heavy. Which made it not all that great to use.
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May 19, 2017 10:46
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 Finished another 5-man squad of Blood Ravens that I finished last week but didn't get around until getting good photos until this week. Need to improve at painting the shoulder pads if anything. But the bases ended up looking nicer than expected. Even if I need to either do them separately or learn not to smear texture paint on the models feet by accident. Next project is an understrength troop of Krieg Grenadiers.
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May 30, 2017 11:26
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JcDent posted:I have a question: what's the paintscheme of the "new" Cadians? Speaking about this: Going by the painting guide Tunic: Zandri Dust -> Reikland Fleshshade -> Ushabti Bone -> Pallid Wych Flesh Armour: Straken Green -> Reikland Fleshshade -> Straken Green -> Ogryn Camo Khakis: Caliban Green -> Nuln Oil -> Caliban Green -> Loren Forest The stripe is Tau Light Ochre
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Jun 15, 2017 14:05
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JcDent posted:What painting guide would that be, kind diaznette sir? The GW How to paint guide in this case: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-SE/How-to-Paint-Citadel-Miniatures-Astra-Militarum-Interactive-iBook-Edition
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Jun 15, 2017 14:57
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What is the easiest way to paint scrap metal or rusted metal that doesn't involve getting any of the GW technical paints? I have a bunch of Krieg grenadiers I bought which came partly based. Base in question:  Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 13:20
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Slimnoid posted:Layers of rusty brown, followed with a drybrush of metallic paint along the edges. Washes optional. Aight, I'll give that a try. Thanks.
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Jun 17, 2017 14:46
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Slimnoid posted:Oh, you could also try dry pigments as well, totally forgot about those. Either by brushing it on, or mixing it with water to make a kind of wash and apply it that way. I would if I could in that case. Don't really have any of that available. Managed to get something rust looking based on your earlier tip but I'll probably just experiment a bit with the rest.
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Jun 17, 2017 16:48
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So I'm doing some painting commission work (my first even) for some Space Wolves and they need to be on snowbases in this case. I've seen SRM's recipe for them but I'm looking for some alternatives as well.
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Jul 3, 2017 17:29
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SRM posted:Thanks for the Dragon Red feedback duders. It sounds like it might be the way I go for my Blood Ravens. Hm, maybe I should keep that in mind as well for the future.
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Jul 18, 2017 16:40
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Rhaegar posted:So I just picked up Warhammer Quest and Start Collecting Tzeentch. Any good Tzeentch painting guide out there? Pretty sure Warhammer TV on YT has a bunch of guides for how to paint parts of various Tzeentch models.
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Aug 26, 2017 11:19
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What would be the best texture paint to use for snowy tundra bases? I have Valhallan snow and flock but not sure what kind of base colour to use for it.
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Sep 3, 2017 13:04
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I think SRM has a good snow recipe for his nifty Guard troops, but I'm on my phone and just woke up and haven't had coffee yet.... Yeah I've seen the video in this case for it. I have 50 Space Wolves painted up in 30k colours that needs to be based and going for an Agrellan Earth as the base and then Valhallan Snow on top of that would've just looked like a desert had snowed over so I was looking for other alternatives. If not I'll just go with a darker brown like Stirland Mud/Battlemire and hope it makes it look like taiga or something. I also have 9 1k sons painted in white/gold/blue but for that I'm just going to go with a darker base for contrast. Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 14:29
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richyp posted:The nurgle guys a few posts back have some patches of Valhalla blizzard, I think it works quite well. If you wet the edges of it when smoothing it becomes I nice crushed looking ice. Looks pretty good idea. I'll probably just pick up one of the darker textured paints from the FLGS and do some testing with washes and such.
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Sep 3, 2017 16:09
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I've had AP Primer fall off in flakes off a model but then I suspect I didn't clean the resin release agent well enough despite going at it twice. Need to try and see what happens with the GW primers later just to see if I do need to try to clean them a third time or not.
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Sep 12, 2017 16:10
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SRM posted:Army Painter primer has some lovely colors, but should be applied over actual primer because it likes to chip and flake like a motherfucker. AP bottle paints are mostly garbage, but I like their Crystal Blue and Angel Green - every other color of theirs I've used has been garbo. GW primers have been great in my experience, but I've only used Macragge Blue. Go figure. Had some luck with AP Primer on GW figures but apparently the Raging Heroes resin is made of very different stuff or something because that's the only time the primer has ever flaked on me.
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Sep 12, 2017 19:46
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