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serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

PyroDwarf posted:

Help me painting goons! I am painting this guy pink for my daughter. Everything was going fine until I started the final layer. I've been using a glaze technique to get to the point in this photo:


When I started the final layer I got this:



It goes on rather grainy. It is Vallejo squid pink. Do I need to give him a simple green bath and start over? I wouldn't be too upset if that were the case.

You watered it down too much and the pigment separated. There's no coming back from that except painting over it with your base colour again.

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serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

PyroDwarf posted:

Whelp. Simple green it is. Would using thinner medium instead of water help?

Yeah, thats exactly what medium is designed to do. Keep the pigment together but just stretch it instead of separating like too much water will cause.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Gloss varnish creates a perfectly flat surface for the transfer to sit on. Paint layers are naturally a tad bumpy so it is useful to do.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

BULBASAUR posted:

Agreed

I mean, look at this motherfucker



Thats a loving boss model.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ijyt posted:

Do any of the other paint manufacturers have an equivalent colour to the new FW Lupercal Green and Sons of Horus green?

I'd order the FW one if it wasn't for the bloody shipping.

Im going up to the forge world open day in a few weeks. I dont mind grabbing htem and sending them to you.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Had some time to work on Guilliman over the weekend. Got quite a lot done. Very nice model to work on.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Star Man posted:

How do you pin all that stuff together, anyway? I've tried using sticky tack but it doesn't hold on to the plastic very well.

I drill into the bits and stick it on with a tiny dab of superglue to stop it twirling.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Got in the zone today and just powered through this guy. Fantastic model.







serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

dishwasherlove posted:

That is some goddamn sexy marble, gaylord.

Thanks. I must have started that base over from scratch about 4 times before I got to that, some very very frustrating moments where it just didn't work. I also painted this in a different way to how I normally paint and it made some of the more tedious bits much quicker while still giving the finish I wanted.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Sycorax bronze is also really thin so to get a decent amount of coverage over black you'll either be doing 30 odd layers or gooping it on really thick.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

JerryLee posted:

How did you do it? Looking at it I feel like I would probably approach that effect by sponging light gray and white over a medium gray, then painting the veins on in dark gray, but I'd be surprised if it was actually that simple to get it the way you did.

But you'd be correct. There's a bit of purple glazing in patches but it's mostly dark grey base, sloppy coat of russ grey, sponge fenris grey, sponge vma pale blue grey. Paint in veins in dark reaper. Sponge again. Paint more veins. Sponge etc etc.

The gold was just tin bits, dwarf bronze, shining gold, auric gold and auric + mithril.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Z the IVth posted:

Marble stuff

To be honest, I'm still not happy with the base but it got to the point where I'd had enough and just kept going with what I had. If I want to enter it in anything I'll probably come back to it, but at this point its good enough hah.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Shachi posted:

Not sure if I was clear. Was asking about doing it with an airbrush. I'm trying to get better at this brick wall of a learning curve. Since this model is mostly one color it's been the first one that I've been able to try to do almost entirely with an AB. I have a full unit (9) zealots to do next and they are also mostly white. So I'm hoping to hone in some skill on this one model before I try to speed up my process across a full unit. I'm thinking with those, a zenithal highlight will work out just fine though.

You need to lower your pressure and use multiple passes to build up the gradient.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:

Typhus Incoming:




Nice work on the blade.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ShowTime posted:

So i'm thinking of getting some commissioned work done and wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it or perhaps does it themselves. I'm just looking at what kind of prices I should be expecting. I have maybe 25 small based, 30 medium based and 10 large based figures (Warmachine/Hordes) that i'd like painted with moderate attention to detail. Basically if level 1 is just the basics and level 5 is professional studio/product images, i'd be looking at getting a 2 (if that makes any sense). Everything i'm interested in getting done is already assembled and primed.

Also, what kind of turnaround time is normal? And does anyone have any recommendations for painters that will do commissions?

Minimum you're looking at is the retail value of the models for the paintjob. Well, unless you want to send them to child labour places like BTP.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
International Shipping is where most stuff gets broken in transit. I won't do it unless i absolutely have to.

Also I finally put some stuff in the cabinet, a year after moving in.



Theres models from nearly a decade ago in that shot.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:

Aw yiss, is that mr anus I can spot half way down there?

Mr Anus has pride of place in that formation.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:

Cheers dude, much appreciated :)

The blade wasn't hugely complicated, and you could make it as easy or hard as you want depending on the level of blending.

50/50 basecoat leadbelcher/abaddon black. Thin your paints!

Blend up to pure leadbelcher on the blade bit with a really properly watered down leadbelcher. So you can bearly see the layer but it dries within seconds. It builds up quickly though. Sounds like hard work, but we're talking maybe 4 layers and 45 seconds work? The top flat curved surface done the same, nothing else touched

Do the same with pure chainmail, only on the edge of the blade, again this was only 2/3 layers maybe?

At this point i did the edge highlighting in pure chainmail, almost all side of brush stuff. The only hard bit was the line along the side of the blade as that's just hold your breath steady hand stuff

Now the fun bit - made 2 glazes of beastial brown and liche purple using lahmian medium (love that stuff). Put it on in patches all over, purple first and not being afraid to overlap. The colour will be dulled but the blending should show through. You're not washing here, so don't go mad, you want it sitting on the flat surfaces.

Finally blop some Nihilakh Oxide on a few bits and bobs

Very similar to how I did the blade on Guilliman except i had purple and turquoise as contrasts.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Z the IVth posted:

Where'd you get the clear risers? I need some of those for my cabinet

Moreplan. They're jewelry display stands.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ijyt posted:

Yeah that's pretty boss, can't wait to see it painted up.

I feel like I may have asked this before but can I use brush-applied gloss varnish as a stand in for still water? Don't much feel like spending £10 on 200ml of Vallejo still water when I only have a few small bases to do.

Use a bit of PVA if its not too deep. Too much and it will yellow with age (a few years though)

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ijyt posted:

That's fine, I'll be adding inks and paint for a polluted, stagnant look anyway. Thanks!

Pour it in layers, dont try and do more than a few mm at a time or it will take ages to dry and you'll inevitably poke it and leave a giant hole.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

BULBASAUR posted:

Has anyone here had any experience with them?

I've done some, all of which were metal. They were easy to assemble, but did require some putty work to fill joins. I didn't have to pin anything but that may be necessary on some models.

I'd stay away from horses since they're a bit of a nightmare to get together. They're gorgeous sculpts though and really reward painting effort.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

krushgroove posted:

I've added you to the list in the OP (if anyone else wants adding just PM me or post a reply!)

I also do commissions.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Chewbaccanator posted:

Why do people hate Gesso? It seems like a legitimate alternative if you can't spray paint your primer.

Its a terrible idea for miniatures.

And most traditional modellers don't paint their models with thinned down putty. They just sand stuff down. Which to be fair, you don't actually have to do anymore since casting is so much better, but they've been doing it that way for years so they'll never change.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ijyt posted:

Man, I remember people laughing at GW's display paintjobs not being amazing, but I think there's a good idea to that. I can't stop comparing my lovely Infinity to the amazing box art. I trtied to push through with the first mini but it's gone so wrong that I'm just going to strip and build again. It's so disheartening.

Dont. Leave it finished, move on to the next one. If you still hate it after you've done all of them then strip and repaint.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Partial Octopus posted:

How well does Vallejo Game Air work with brushes?

Fantastically.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Is there an uninspiration thread for primarchs? I feel sad about what i've seen today.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:



Almost there

Awww yisssss.

I'm going to have to up my game.

Although that sword looks familiar.....

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:

Roboute Guilliman Incoming







Proper pleased with how he turned out, and it was a lot more enjoyable to paint than I originally thought it was going to be

Owns.

I also like how you too gave up on trying to get the trophy things straight.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Bachtere posted:

That's great all around. Love the metallics though, especially the sword.

:staredog:

I think my favourite thing about miniature painting is that everyone has their own way of doing things. Marble is the perfect example of this.

serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 11:17 on Jul 24, 2015

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

:respek:

I just got some solar power turn tables for my cabinet. Going to turn the living room into my own version of WHW.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
I've got 2 shelves of just Primarchs now. 10 year old me loves it.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Moola posted:

making some terrain with card as a base


will try this

Do the bottom side first, because when you apply it to the other side it will crack the side you first glued.

So basically glue the bottom to make it curve, then glue what people will see and that might sort it.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Moola posted:

isnt this going to make the bottom of the base uneven though???

I wouldnt do a base that way because it will never be flat yeah.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
I now have solar powered turntables i bought for £3 each off ebay from china for my primarchs. Warhammer World South Coast.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ijyt posted:

Does anyone have a recommendation to get a similar base colour of the ice, as well as the grey of the coat?

Vallejo, Army Painter, P3, Coat d'Arms, or Citadel though I'd probably prefer Vallejo.



Vallejo MC Blue Green

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ijyt posted:

Painting my Ice Golem and I just noticed some small dust/hair specs on the model in places, stuck between paint layers.

Is there anyway to hide/get rid of them without damaging the paint job? I don't want to strip.

No, anything you can do will make it worse.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Yep, the worst thing you can do when starting out painting is to keep endlessly stripping models and restarting them because you never get anything finished and then give up.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
The fully dried ones are essentially plastic at this point so bin them.

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serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

dr_ether posted:

Finished Katalyst, for the Alchemist team in Guild Ball.



Your background image is detracting from the model. The high light burst in the centre is not great and is causing your camera to wash the colours out.

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