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Painted some more Malifaux, am broadly pleased with how they turned out. Used a bunch of contrast paints to get a feel how they work over a zenithal undercoat.   Sonnia Criid. I'm pleased with how the cigarette looks, especially as I nearly cut it off when I thought it was a bit of flash.. The coat was GW contrasts with a few extra highlights. I could have cleaned up some of the splotches/pooling of the red a little, but I like the effect. Tried a blue contrast over silver for the flame on the blade, and it looks much brighter than the photo shows.  Mature Nephilim. Turns out if you want Magos Purple to show over any kind of dark undercoat at all you have to do a few coats. Kind of wish I'd gone for a cream coloured robe for a bit more contrast, but it is what it is.  Lelu. After the zenithal highlight I gave the face and torso a light drybrush of white (because his pecs have one hell of an overhang, and I was worried the red wouldnt show on the black), and then with the contrast over that it felt like it practically painted itself to be honest.  Black Blood Shaman. After lelu turned out well I did the same thing with the wings, a light white drybrush before a flesh contrast, and I'm pretty pleased with how that turned out. Was missing the blade when I got it, so thats greenstuff (my sculpting skills are non existent but even I can manage a rough blade shape).  Thats me painted all the Nephilim I have at the moment, though I'm not hugely happy with the leader (human sized woman with the sword in this picture). Painted her a while ago and I should have given the purples another pass to make them more vibrant, and her skin isnt great either. Having said that, she was an ebay purchase that was already assembled and I was partway into painting her before I realised that the seller had assembled her wrong (the trailing part of the coat had been attached to the shoulders as a cape, and a chunk of it had been cut off to make it fit), which wasnt ideal, so by the time I got to a stage that was at least passable I was fed up and called it done.
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Mar 11, 2020 23:50
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Serenade posted:Ebay salvage is a mixed bag. You will get models for cheaper, but they may be assembled in a non ideal way. I hate the ebay Khador Man-o-Wars I'm working on now: they're missing a few parts, some parts are on backwards, there are no sub assemblies, there are mold and glue lines, etc. Yeah, I get most of my models from ebay, and its usually fine. I'm on a Malifaux streak, and they are generally mono-pose models. I dont particularly enjoy putting together monopose models. Posable kits I like fine, theres at least a bit of creativity and decision making, and you usually have enough bits that you can not worry too much about your conversions; If you try and cut/resculpt amodel and it looks poo poo, you have another half dozen pairs of legs or whatever you can use instead. But putting together a model which only fits together one way for me is kind of a chore I put up with to get to the painting stage I enjoy. Buying off ebay I can get models that someone has already put together and, if I'm lucky, undercoated. For cheaper than buying the models new. Its like someone is paying me for them to do the bit I dont enjoy! I'll sometimes buy painted models and strip them back, but only if they are fairly cheap (and I never buy models which are already painted better than I can do myself. Would just seem wrong somehow.). But occasionally stuff has arrived and the seller has done something weird to them that I didnt notice because it wasnt mentioned in the description and I'm not necessarily familiar enough with the figure to spot it in the photo. Nothing really unfixable, but sometimes aggravating. I mentioned previously the figure where the bottom half of her trenchcoat had been repurposed as a bolero cape. I got a Seamus crew* and the main guy comes with a doctors bag with tentacles coming out of it holding a bone saw. The seller, for reasons best known to themselves, had trimmed the tentacles off, glued the bonesaw to the side of the bag, and then glued another figure (the Copycat killer who is posed balancing on the blade of an oversized pair of scissors) balancing on the bag. Also he'd managed to glue a figures hand on upside down. All totally fixable with a knife, some patience and a tiny bit of green stuff, but annoying none the less. Oh, and I have a rasputina from ebay where it looks like she has no fingers on one hand because the seller didnt realise that hand was supposed to be glued to the underside of her collar and left a big gap revealing the squared off stump. But that was part of a huge lot I got for very cheap, so I'm not that bothered. I'll eventually either give her a new hand from another figure, attempt to model some fingers from green stuff or (most likely) cut off the arm and reattach at the proper angle then fill the new gaps. So yeah, usually fine, but do give the photos a proper look if you dont want to have to fix someone elses mistakes! *He'd also undercoated in bone then given the minis a sepia wash. Which was fine, it took basecoats okay and everything, but its still weird, right? It gave them a kind of cool scrimshaw look, and I kind of wondered if he just hated painting and thought "at least this looks stylized rather than unpainted", or if it was just a light undercoat with a quick wash to make sure he could see all the details before painting.
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Mar 18, 2020 18:53
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but just paint.
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Ashcans posted:Do I need to be concerned about applying varnish to resin miniatures after painting them? I have a couple I'd like to clear coat to protect them. I know some materials, mostly the Reaper Bones, doesn't like varnish. I know this isnt the point of your question, and I've only done about 3 reaper bones, but I didnt have any problem varnishing them. I know they dont like some brands of spray propellent, but I figure that by time they had been painted (and as long as I kept a sensible distance between can and model) spraying varnish wouldnt do any harm, and I havent noticed any problem with them.
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Mar 22, 2020 22:46
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Ashcans posted:That's good to know! I had heard that some people had issues with stuff remaining tacky for a long time with certain sprays, so it's something I would be careful of; I haven't actually sealed any of my bones miniatures because I generally paint them for handling and I'm not worried about them taking some knocks in general - unlike my resin, which I assume will shatter if jarred and plan to store immaculately in a sealed box. If you are wary of it you could always get some brush-on varnish, or test your spray varnish on the underside of one with a wide base or something. But once the model is coated in a couple of coats of paint it really should be fine. I'd personally be more gung-ho about varnishing a model I wanted to be handled than one I was only painting for display!
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Mar 22, 2020 23:40
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I quite often use car primer, it works fine and might be easier to get hold of at the minute.
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Mar 26, 2020 15:58
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Tibalt posted:I know the photo isn't good enough for people to be able to offer feedback, but just finished a set of 4 cheap plastic hippogryphs Looking decent, especially as I find taking photos immediately shows all the flaws that arent immediately visible to the naked eye, if you are looking for feedback; I'd hit that bad boy with a dark brown wash, particularly over the textured areas on the forequarters and wings, see if that brings out the detail a little bit more. You can lighten the textures back up with a quick drybrush of the original colour once the wash is dry.
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Mar 27, 2020 10:00
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Yeah, I was about to ask if you have a shot of the whole crew together.
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Mar 27, 2020 14:29
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Electric Hobo posted:Action shots will have to wait until... until society breaks down completely. So we'll see them maybe tuesday-wednesday next week?
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Mar 27, 2020 15:02
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Ineptitude posted:Yay i have started painting! Random thoughts 4 and 5; There are, as you have surmised, many many ways to Rome. You dont need to match paint guides exactly to get an almost identical appearance (if thats what you are trying to do). If you are highlighting with a slightly lighter grey than someone else, the difference will be imperceptible. If you are using a different brand of electric blue paint as a basecoat then the difference may be noticeable if you put your miniature next to theirs, but then what undercoat you used, how many layers, what washes and highlights you used would make more of a difference. Basically dont get too hung up on the exact paint names. (and feel free to go "gently caress it, this nose wedge can be black on my guys instead" if you like). Especially if you are following a guide made by the people who want to sell you as many paints as possible. Having said that, dont feel like any of the paints you have are pointless, you'll get use of them all eventually if you keep painting long enough! You never see Duncan applying two coats, but you do hear him saying "And this might take a couple of coats". They just dont show him actually doing it (because they want to keep the videos concise). You may be thinning your paints slightly too much (so mess about until you are happy with the consistency you are getting) or you may be getting it spot on. Its easier to apply another coat if you need it than it is to get paint back off the miniature if you went in too thick.
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Mar 29, 2020 23:14
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Ineptitude posted:Im not too surprised that the primer is not a good fit but i did not expect to hear that it MELTS styrofoam Its the aerosol propellant in the can, not the primer. Polystyrene does not react well to most propellant (I'm told the super dense insulation stuff is less of an issue, but expanded polystyrene definately doesnt like it). IIRC one of the craft terrain guys I follow on youtube (off the top of my head I couldn't tell you which one) swears you can get it to work with the right brand of spray paint and keeping the can a good distance away from the surface, but I wouldnt risk it myself on anything I gave a poo poo about. Sealing it with PVA glue or wall filler (Spackle I think is the american term?) may work or it may not. Probably easiest to just do some nice thick coats of acrylic craft paint/house paint over them and move from there.
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Apr 6, 2020 18:19
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Max Wilco posted:Couldn't sleep last night, so I got up and spent the early morning, as well as intermittent points in the day continuing on Sister Superior She seems to have nice wide ankles; Why didnt you just drill that right leg and pin her to a cork or something? Or lightly and temporarily glue her to a different base? (doesnt even need to be a real base, I currently have a malifaux figure with tiny ankles who is eventually going on a scenic base "based" on a bottle cap because that'll be nice and easy to slide a blade under her feet and unbase her when shes done) There are definitely solutions that dont involve rubbing paint off with your fingers. As for the hard to reach spots, that can be an issue, yeah. But try anyway. Getting a spot of dark paint on the inner sleeve will stand out less than a big chunk of her side still showing white undercoat. Plus you can have a second clean brush on standby to wipe off the paint you didnt mean to apply, and if that doesnt work you can always just patch up the blue on the arm once the black has dried. Also if you are planning to wash the model in my experience that can help hide a multitude of sins.
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Apr 10, 2020 10:28
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Slimnoid posted:Finished up a Reaper Cave Troll and Wererat. I like the paint jobs, but... Is that wererat dabbing?
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Apr 10, 2020 19:06
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Max Wilco posted:There are little nubs on the bottom of the feet that connect to the base, which might make drilling an issue (I could cut them off with a hobby knife, I suppose). I don't have any cork. I suppose I could glue her to another base (I know with CA glue, you can put it in the freezer and that weakens the bond). When it comes to separating it from a base, though, I worry about causing damage to the model in trying to do so. Get a cheap knife with an extendable blade (dont know the proper name for that kind of knife, the ones with snap-off blades. I literally go a pack of 4 of different sizes for £1 in a pound shop), then after painting you can slice under the foot with no problems. If it does impact your paintjob its only the foot, so its still better than touching the freshly painted parts of the model with your fingers (especially contrasts. I dont know if this is purely subjective or an actual objective truth but I find the contrast paint doesnt adhere to edges as well as other paints and is much easier to accidentally rub off). And worst case, even if you ended up slicing off part of the foot, its just a foot. 30 seconds with some milliput and a quick coat of black (once the milliput has cured) will sort it out. From what you have listed you haven't washed the black yet, a black wash could be pushed to the underarm/side area much easier than paint can, and honestly when thats where most of your missing paint is noticeable to me. The main part my eye is drawn to is the side of the corset/torso which is showing white instead of black. I generally (And there are exceptions to this) try to get all my basecoats totally done before moving on to washing/highlighting any part of the figure. The little bits of red on the bolter (for example) which have been knocked off the high points can be touched up when you are highlighting anyway. It also kind of feels like you are making your photos too big. That sounds silly, but its still true. There are a few models I have photographed recently where they look absolutely fine at arms length but a 3000 pixel wide photo immediately points out the areas where I hosed up. Dont make me post my gently caress ups to prove it. No-one other than yourself will ever look at your models that closely, so take it a little easier on yourself. Knock the photos down to ~1000 pixels wide and you will have a better idea of what most people will see when they look at the model in any kind of detail. We're in the middle of a global pandemic, I think we can go easy on a couple of missing spots of paint.
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Apr 11, 2020 02:27
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Slimnoid posted:If you find yourself commonly using a mix like that, it's probably best to fill an empty dropper bottle with the colors you're using so you don't have to keep making batches. Figure out your ratio and fill the bottle appropriately (like 1/2 of bottle is this color, 1/2 that color, etc.) Also, once you work out your ratio, write that poo poo down somewhere in case you ever need to mix it again.
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Apr 12, 2020 21:41
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hooman posted:When it comes to streakyness on flat surfaces, one thing I know to do but always forget is to make sure you're painting multiple thin coats and once you apply the paint, not apply the next coat or touch it with a brush until it dries. For paints with less good coverage you will need a few coats to get it done but that should sort out any streakyness. The pink hair makes a world of difference, he's looking good!
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Apr 13, 2020 11:57
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I'm on "holiday" at the moment, from working at home, which means I've spent a lot of time painting. Would be making decent inroads into my backlog if I wasnt also spending a lot of time browsing ebay. Anyway, heres a bunch of Malifaux gremlins I've painted recently, I'm reasonably happy with them. Used a tub of "structure paste" I got out of Tiger for the bayou mud, and some modpodge "dimensional magic" as a water effect on a few of the bases. All metal 1st ed models more due to thats what came up on ebay at a decent price than any particular preference. I am now definitely ready to paint a few models that dont have green skin and arent quite so drat tiny. Ophelia LaCroix  Francois LaCroix  Rami LaCroix (he was actually painted a while back as a test piece for the dimensional magic)  Raphael LaCroix  Som'erteeth Jones  And his boy, Lenny  Bayou Gremlins  And finally 2 "Slop Haulers" 
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Apr 15, 2020 21:47
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:Trying to find cheaper spray primers to use down here in NZ, I can get the Rust-oleum painters + flat black (in a few days, when our lockdown ends) but it’s enamel? It’s the one people say is good, but like.... Literally any brand matt black car primer works fine. My go-to is the stuff they sell in my local pound shop. I've also used random spray cans from aldi, halfords own brand camoflage spray paint (khaki, which honestly wasnt as sandy as I was hoping for, but still worked fine as a primer. Was hoping it would also be the basecoat on some desert bases, and it looked great when just applied, but it dried kind of just off grey) a brand called "Gold" which had a mushroom brown (again, trying to combine base + undercoat, worked better than the khaki because it was a much stronger colour), and "blackboard paint". They've all been more or less fine to be honest, and half of them have a better nozzle than the much more expensive can of GW chaos black I never use anymore. I'm a big advocate of cheaping out on spray undercoats, unless you need a specific one for a specific purpose (eg army painters cans being colour matches to their paint range, or wanting to use GW wraith bone on something you are going to paint mainly with contrasts or whatever). Make sure the can is warm (not hot, just warm), shake for much longer than you think you need to, clean the nozzle when you are done to prevent clogging (as mentioned in the last page or two, just invert it and spray until the spray comes out clear) and cheapo cans work perfectly well. And you should be doing all that with expensive cans too for the record.
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Apr 23, 2020 13:07
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Stan Taylor posted:I picked up one of those "learn to paint minis" kits to keep myself occupied while furloughed and on quarantine. Went with this because I wanted some practice models before I try my hand at painting some minis in my boardgame collection, namely the Kemet monsters. Looking forward to starting this, and now I'm considering grabbing a few battetech models if I like it 'cause mechs are cool. Watched a few youtube tutorials and I won't need to prep the bits I have to paint right now so I'm thinking I'm ready to start. have my desk clean with a lamp overhead, went ahead and picked up an x-acto knife and some sticky tack to mount them to a pill bottle. Planning on doing the wet palette trick with paper towels and parchment paper. Any other noob tips? You guys wanna see my horrible results when I'm done? Some noob tips, in no particular order; Dont accidentally drink your water jar. Dont accidentally clean your brush in your coffee. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat; You can always add more paint to a model, trying to take paint back off is harder! The wet palette will help with this. Dont stress about it. Its a hobby, its supposed to be fun. Your first model wont be as good as your 10th one, which wont be as good as your 100th one, and thats fine! Still looks nicer than bare plastic. A dark wash covers a multitude of sins. When you take a photo of the miniature you will notice a bunch of things that werent apparent to the naked eye. Just remember that literally no-one will ever look as closely at your models as you do, or as critically! A black undercoat means any parts you miss painting look like shadow which is good. On the other hand, a white undercoat makes the colours on top of it pop more (and good luck trying to put yellow over black..). Like many things in the hobby, there is no one true path. Do what works for you with the model you are currently painting and the materials you have to hand. If you are priming with spray paints ("rattlecans") you might want to check out a technique called "Zenithal Highlighting". Its easy to do and can make picking out the highlights on a miniature easier. You just need 2 spray paints, a light one and darker one. Edit to add: Also dont be afraid to ask questions, this thread is pretty friendly and people like to help. And yes, of course we want to see your results.
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Apr 25, 2020 11:15
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Winklebottom posted:rats rats rats Those are some nice white rats.
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Apr 29, 2020 15:17
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Ineptitude posted:Along with the minis and the paints i also bought a bunch of brushes, namely GW's Layer, Base and Dry S and M, as well as Army Painter Insane Detail. All brushes have a limited lifespan, then they get downgraded to drybrushes, then they get downgraded to applying PVA or textures to bases. But they should definitely last longer than that. If I had to guess there is paint down at the ferrule end (not the tip, the other end) which has dried so the bristles are splaying out. Make sure you are washing the paint out of them thoroughly and regularly while you are using them, and when you are wiping them give them... I'm going to say a spin? To try and pull the bristles back into a point along your paper towel. If they are getting J tips, I dont know what causes that (and its how my brushes tend to go in the end). I should probably find out. I dont buy expensive brushes. Most of mine are bought off wish, the rest from random craft stores, apart from a few army painter brushes. So I have no particular fear of ruining them. So what I did when I had a few brushes that had splayed out is I dipped the bristles in denatured alchohol (methylated spirits). Then I wiped them on a kitchen towel. A whole mess of paint came off, repeat as necessary, and then I could get most of them to go back into a point again. I rinsed them with water afterwards obviously. I make no guarantees this will work, it may do irreparable damage to expensive natural hair brushes or melt plastic bristles or whatever. But it did work for a couple of my brushes (army painter highlight brushes and a cheaper GW starter brush I got when someone gifted me the first issue of that partwork magazine they did), and its worth trying if your brushes are already at a stage when you are considering chucking them. Someone may have a kinder solution, with like brush conditioner or something, but a bar of that would cost more than most of my brushes and I already had the meths.
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Apr 29, 2020 19:02
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Ineptitude posted:Rinsing in water when changing color in the same paint session, rinse thoroughly, wipe/rub on paper, rinse again, when done with a paint session I'd advise rinsing and wiping every time you change colour, not just at the end. grassy gnoll posted:I have nothing to add for most of this conversation except to also endorse a decent sable brush and Master's soap, but Good to know, I assumed it was something I was doing myself! Theres one particular brush that develped a J tip incredibly quickly that I used for about 3 months because the very tip of the J was actually really useful for fine lines, but generally I downgrade them when it happens.
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Apr 29, 2020 20:22
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Two Headed Calf posted:How did you do that grungy bronze? That's the look Ive been trying to nail with my std. You need to go to the clinic man.
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Apr 30, 2020 19:15
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jesus WEP posted:Question time: what is the local equivalent in the UK/Ireland for Simple Green? What’s commonly available to strip models? Vlex posted:Dettol, or so I'm told? Cooked Auto posted:Pretty sure it's Dettol yeah. Dont strip models with Dettol. Just dont do it. I have to admit that it does work! But very very very slowly. The last (or should I say first and only) time I tried to strip models with dettol I had to leave them soaking in it for literally days, and even then it didnt get everything off (and some of what it did get off turned into gluey lumps that went into the recesses of the model and were a right bastard to get out). And then the smell lingers for ages. Like seriously ages. Only advantage it has is that you probably have a bottle in the bathroom already. You can, as Yeast linked, now get Simple Green in the UK. But its 15 quid for a litre and (in these uncertain times, as every email I've had in the last 6 weeks starts) they are only posting once a week. I've never used it, I'm sure its great. Frankly at that price it had better be. I'll be honest, at that price I kind of feel it should take the paint off, clear mold lines and put the models back on the drat sprue. I do a decent amount of ebay rescues, and what I use to strip models is what our American friends would call "Denatured Alcohol", but we call "Methylated Spirits". It works quickly, the smell evaporates off quickly, its not particularly harmful on the skin (it will dry your skin out if you get a bunch on there and dont rinse it off), its easy to get and cheap as hell. My 500ml bottle was I think £1 from Wilko, any hardware store (and probably a lot of supermarkets) should carry it. I've used it on metal models and plastic, its never damaged anything. I cant guarantee what it'll do to the hosed up plastic they use for reaper bones, but its been fine for me on the hard plastic of GW figures and Malifaux stuff. Dump the figures in a jar (I like the doritos salsa jar, nice wide mouth and not too deep, makes it easy to get the figures out), cover with Meths, leave for a bit. Take a figure out, put it on a paper towel, scrub gently with a toothbrush. If there is still paint on, back in the jar for a bit. Do not, and this is important, get that toothbrush mixed up with the one you use for your teeth. That is now your paint scrubbing brush, store it with the Meths.
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May 5, 2020 11:25
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KozmoNaut posted:As far as I know it's injection molded PVC, so anything that is safe for PVC should be safe for Bones. For clarity, I love the bones range, the price vs quality is just great value. I dont personally have as many of them as I'd like because my local games store only carries them sporadically, I buy a couple when I see them, then regret not buying more, then go back and they've sold through. But knowing that some Bones reacts really badly to some spray propellant (and I think there might be two generations of bones with slightly different plastics? I think someone told me that anyway) I'm just saying I'm not advising taking a reaper bones dragon and dumping it in meths without testing it first, simply because I've never stripped a reaper bones mini. Its probably fine, just like its probably fine on resin, but I'm not certain and I dont want someone ruining a model because I assumed it would be fine.
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May 5, 2020 12:33
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notaspy posted:Hello thread, Trying to be project agnostic, I'd say you are missing at least one brown (so many things are different shades of brown I'd recommend you get at least 2. A darkish wood brown and a leather brown at least), and at least one skin tone base colour. And an ivory or bone colour is always useful too. Seraphim Sepia is a surprisingly versatile wash I'd also consider. More things on models are shades of brown than are purple (unless of course you are painting something thats main colour is purple... This is why its difficult to be project agnostic! If you are planning on painting a bunch of tyranids then the browns are less important than organic shades of purple and pink... But in general a brown that can be a wooden handle or sheild will be used on more minis than a purple will.)
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May 7, 2020 14:37
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TotalHell posted:Pew pew I like him! What is he?
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May 7, 2020 23:41
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TotalHell posted:He’s a warcaster from Warmachine! Captain Allister Caine, specifically. Ah, I have a couple of friends who are really into that, but I would only recognise the... warjacks? The purple works well with the blue coat, and the highlighting on the face is nice too.
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May 7, 2020 23:57
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I dont hate their paints, but its totally fair to say the texture/consistancy varies wildly across the range. Most ranges have some variation (my GW Abaddon Black is like goddamn tar for example) but Army Painter takes that to extremes. I'd also say they are the one brand where I add an agitator to pretty much every bottle as a matter of course. I do find that even the very thick ones can be thinned to a decent consistancy on a wet pallette, but in some cases it takes some fiddling.
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May 8, 2020 12:38
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Its been kind of a week and I needed an easy win, so I looked in my pile of undercoated Malifaux miniatures, and I defy you to find an easier win than a goddamn Ice Golem; And his little Ice Gamin buddies  But of course then you need to paint his boss, Rasputina  And her sidekick, the Wendigo. As the cowboy is essentially just basing terrain, he got hit with contrast paints and a little bit of metallics, which made him super quick and easy  And as I was on a roll I also did the Blessed of December (1st edition metal model). These were all part of a big ebay lot, and she was already put together and on a base with some insulation foam "rocks" glued to it. So I figured the rocks could become a snowman because why the hell not. Probably the model I'm least fond of out the lot, honestly the snowman is my favourite part. Did mean I ended up covering 95% of the base in snow instead of the kind of thawing look of the rest, but it fits in well enough and it amused me.  And the lot also had a "Silent One" (metal 1st ed again) which is a model I did not particularly like at first, the right arm is a separate piece that didnt, by default, quite touch the ground, and the hand essentially sits on a flat plate, too thick to easily cut through, which makes it look like she has a webbed hand. But painted and based I actually really like this one. Leaned her forward until the hand touched the ground, then buried the hand a little in the homemade snow effect, with ablue wash to make it look like shes using some sort of ice power. Definitely covers up the limitations of the sculpt a little.  Whole December crew together (or again, at least all the models I have from that keyword/faction). I wound up being quite pleased with how the bases turned out, I've never done snowy bases before. Less pleased with how the photos turned out, but I wanted to try a dark background because I thought a white would make the snow look weird. 
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May 8, 2020 19:43
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Electric Hobo posted:Looking good! I like a lot of the old Malifaux models, but that Wendigo is just so weird. Thanks! Looking him up online (these were part of a big job lot, and the arcanists arent a faction I had any particular interest in, so I had literally no idea what any of them were, so to ID them it was a lot of googling "Malifaux Ice" and seeing what turned up) a lot of people have rebased him without the cowboy, which looks fine and all, except they've had to scratch build a left hand because the wrist just disappears under the hat. And others seem to have the cowboy falling over backwards, balancing him on his left foot which just looks kinda weird. I kind of like the goofiness of it tbh.
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May 8, 2020 20:43
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Phi230 posted:What paint do you all recommend for painting the ghostly blue/green color for LOTR models like Nazgul Without seeing an example of what you mean, I'm going to go ahead and say Games Workshop nihilakh oxide slopped on over a white undercoat, then a just off white highlight, tending to pure white at the extremities.
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May 9, 2020 01:54
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Electric Hobo posted:catcher could be cutcher, Clotcher, surely!
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May 12, 2020 13:17
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Yeast posted:Finished up the first 5 weirdos for my Delaque gang. Love 'em. I aspire to be able to blend that well. Or at all really... Class Warcraft posted:Anyone got any protips for rebasing miniatures? I use a narrow utility knife, with a thin extendable blade, rather than a fixed blade craft knife, because the blade is flexible and can easily be made to go flush with the base no matter how the model is posed/based, but yeah, thats the best way I've found. I would just remind you to cut downwards/away from yourself onto a cutting mat, and not directly into your goddamn hand*, and I tend to put a bit of kitchen towel under and in front of the miniature to catch it if it decides to go pinging off into the great beyond. Sometimes they do that. *Very much the voice of painful experience talking here.
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May 14, 2020 11:47
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Zuul the Cat posted:Refining my Vior'la scheme a bit more before going on to paint the rest of my start collecting box. I want the markings to look like they've been added after the fact by the owner, and not done at the factory where everything is made. I personally feel like this guy needs some more not-white bits, to make the white parts stand out more. Dont have to go crazy with it, but maybe the upper arms (the actual arms, not the bits on top of the arms) and the feet maybe? Or the outer parts of the gloves/forearms and the thigh plates?
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May 14, 2020 17:37
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So, I just dropped the drat multipart metal mini I was in the middle of painting, so I think thats my cue to hang it up for the night and photograph the stuff I did last week. Painted a Malifaux Viktorias crew.  Consisting of the team masters, Viktoria and Viktoria,  the student of conflict  the Ronin (who look like a weeb girl band tbh)  Taelor  Vanessa  And Bishop (who honestly just looks like a 1980s metal band roadie). He was painted a few weeks ago mainly as a colour test for the cracked desert base.  These were another ebay rescue, there are a few little details missing, and the photos didnt turn out great, but I'm pleased with them, especially considering they didnt actually take that long to paint.
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May 19, 2020 22:12
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Winklebottom posted:Playing around with some fire and ice effects. Fairly pleased but I need to try a proper wetblend at some point That axe blade looks phenomenal.
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May 20, 2020 15:30
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Pakxos posted:Glad it was helpful! Question for you, and for anyone else, when you use a painting handle, how do you keep your hands steady? With a model on a base I can put my elbows on a table, put my palms together have the mini in my palms and use one hand to paint. But with the handle I tend to have one hand on it and my other hand separate. Is it just that the trade off of making sure you aren't touching the model while painting enough to overcome the stability hit? You can absolutely still steady one hand with the other while holding a painting handle, it just depends how you hold them. Now, I cannot for the life of me understand how you are holding minis without the handle from that description to be honest, but when using a painting handle I usually end up with the heel of the paintbrush hand on the knuckles of the handle hand. If I cant manage that because of the angles I still fine I get some stability from just extending the pinky on my paintbrush hand and pressing it to the handle. But then I dont usually plant my elbows when I paint, the table I use for painting is more like a folding TV tray and is not even a little bit sturdy.
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May 22, 2020 17:20
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Cooked Auto posted:It's safe to assume that I need to wash Victoria Miniatures models right? The fact they don't feel as glossy as FW resin models is throwing me off a bit and I can't seem to find any mentions on the website that I do need to clean any residue off them. Look at it this way; If they dont need washed, a quick wash still wouldnt hurt them, and better than not doing it and it turns out they need it.
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May 27, 2020 12:11
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Do y’all use zenithal highlighting when you’re going to use contrast paints? Sometimes! Some of the paints work well with it (I found Blood Angels Red for example worked well enough, Black Templar works absolutely fine), some I had mixed results (I like the effect I get with Snakebite Leather, but its a fairly severe contrast between light and shadow, Fyreslayer flesh didnt work well for faces, but made a pretty bitching effect for leathery wings). Some of them are more or less okay-ish, as long as you accept that the shadow will be "very slightly filtered black", and even that took a couple of coats (Magos Purple). Apocathary White works well, but with the caveat that I've only used it after a zenithal highlight for white hair and I think a labcoat, so that was parts of the model that got the white from the zenithal anyway, I very much doubt its strong enough to go over a majority black part of the model. Sometimes I give the bits which are going to be highlights a quick touch up with a drybrush of white before putting on the contrast paint if I think the zenithal highlight hasnt quite caught all the raised details I wanted.
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May 30, 2020 21:59
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jesus WEP posted:👏you👏don’t👏have👏to👏prime👏with👏black👏 For the record, I do know that, but the question was specifically about using contrast paints over zenithal highlights, which is most often black and white by default. Doesnt have to be, I've got some guys waiting to be painted who are undercoated in a brown with a zenithal highlight of light tan because they are sandstorm monsters and I thought that could work better, but I havent painted them yet and am not planning on using contrasts when I do, so I can only talk to what experience I have. If you have used the contrasts over a zenithal highlight that wasnt black, please do expand, my answer is by no means complete! I just tend to try stuff to see if it works/if it works for me specifically. Magos Purple over black and white zenithal highlights does work, but it takes a lot of coats and the "shadow" you get in the parts the zenithal didnt touch are very near black. If I was going to do it over... I dunno, I like the effect I ended up with, but the process was kind of annoying (although it would be less annoying to do it again as I now know it will work in the end). A gray instead of a black would probably have been easier to see the purple through, but the zenithal effect would be vastly diminished. I dont have a purple spray paint and I wouldnt buy a can for a single mini, so thats pretty much out. Probably would have stuck with black/white but then done a basecoat in a non-contrast purple over the skin before using the magos purple as afilter, but then learning that was pretty much the point of the exercise. It was these guys for the record, the big lad ("Mature Nephilim") ended up being Magos Purple, but I hadnt decided what skin colour he was going to have when I primed them (I tend to prime a bunch of models at once so I have them sitting ready to go, particularly in the winter when spray painting weather is hard to come by, so a dry day sees me undercoating everything I can lay hands on). The little guys in the last photo are magos purple contrast over a lilac base coat, but I wanted the mature nephilim to look darker than the young nephilim so didnt do that with him. SiKboy posted:Painted some more Malifaux, am broadly pleased with how they turned out. Used a bunch of contrast paints to get a feel how they work over a zenithal undercoat.
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May 31, 2020 11:17
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