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krushgroove posted:
Is this a what type of brush size to use for certain applications or is this more of a run down of brush brands and types?
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 18:57 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 00:50 |
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enri posted:
If I'm reading their kickstarter with shipping to the US and conversion they look cheaper than buying winsor's of the same size.
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 19:12 |
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krushgroove posted:I'll add brands in the near future but after the paint section is the new brush section. It's mostly what type of brush to use as well as different types of brushes. The only brand mentioned so far is GW, and not really in a fully positive light. Cool I'm in the place looking for some brushes and I don't want to pay Winsor prices but I also don't want crap. So i've been looking around on Amazon for something in between. So far i've settled on a set that are 'model painter' brand I found on Amazon but I can't really find any reviews on them?
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 19:32 |
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If I were to use acrylic medium and distilled water to thin my paints what's a suggested ratio?
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# ¿ Mar 23, 2015 03:11 |
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krushgroove posted:Question for those of you that zenithal prime: do you do any edge highlighting at all? I'm working on these red Eldar and zenithal primed them but wonder if edging the armor with orange will help them 'pop'. Unrelated question about zenithal priming. Are you just applying washes/thin layers of paint on top of this to keep the zenithal effect?
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 17:22 |
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Is there a difference between acrylic medium and flow improver? The acrylic medium I have is white-ish, is this pigment that will lighten the color I mix it with? Mixing 1 to 1 I haven't noticed it significantly changing the color.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2015 18:57 |
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I recently found my old Badger 105 in the garage from like 12 years ago. I think I got it when I was into modeling and had a hard time figuring it out so I put it away forever to be forgotten... I took it apart and the needle and siphon cup had some paint in it I soaked them in Simple green and ran some air and paint through it. Everything seems fine, it sprays albeit very wide but mechanically it all works. Is there anything else I should take apart and clean/check etc? Does it need to be lubed or anything? I ordered a medium and a fine needle/tip and some Vallejo primer that says it's already thinned for air brushes. The intention is to start using it for priming and base colors and then maybe get finer more detailed as I get the hang of it.
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# ¿ May 11, 2015 00:08 |
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Airbrush questions! I want to use my current compressor and tank I have in the garage. It's already got a regulator on it but I see a lot of people talking about driers and filters etc? I can get a cheap regulator with a water trap and probably Q/D it at both ends to go from my standard hose to the airbrush hose but if it's not worth the trouble I'd rather not.
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# ¿ May 11, 2015 22:09 |
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Sauer posted:
Thanks for the advice I'll probably pick one up and then spend some time bitching about air fittings and adapters.
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# ¿ May 12, 2015 00:33 |
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HardCoil posted:I tried some tube cutting stuff. Im assuming that's just the smallest pipe cutter you could find and not something modeling specific?
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# ¿ May 19, 2015 20:29 |
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What brands of varnish do people recommend if I'm running it through an airbrush? Is it worth just getting a spray can of something instead? I've seen some people in the thread discuss using varnish as a way to 'save your progress' then continue painting on top if it. I'm assuming that the varnish layer will hold up to some abuse from water and a paper towel but what about some simple green? Or if I need to remove something and water isn't cutting it but I don't want to gently caress up the varnish or layers of paint under it?
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# ¿ May 27, 2015 17:44 |
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You said you used a 50:50 Wash to Water ratio. If you have a 'wash' then it's already thinned enough and you're separating out the pigments as someone mentioned. I would take an old toothbrush with a little soap and scrub the model then try the wash without any additional thinning after it's dried. A lot of the Xwing painters I see always mention using Nuln Oil from GW and get results like this: http://warteacher.blogspot.com/2013/03/ffg-x-wing-ship-repaints-revenge-of.html
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# ¿ May 28, 2015 18:53 |
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I've got my eye on a Krome or a Sotar. The Badger Anthem has been great for base coating but I want something with a gravity feed to do finer detail. I might try to grab a patriot just to have a gravity fed base brush. There is some inefficiency with the siphon feed and small amounts of paint. I need to see if it's possible to just buy a Patriot body and attach all the Anthem pieces as they seem interchangeable.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2015 21:19 |
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signalnoise posted:Have you considered getting a paint cup or two for your Anthem? That's what I use for small amounts and it works great I have one and even angling it seems like I need to put more paint into it to get it to siphon up and spray.
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# ¿ Jun 5, 2015 16:21 |
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PierreTheMime posted:
The crotch saddle spike is fortunately/unfortunately positioned.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2015 15:04 |
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w00tmonger posted:cool. at 25psi'ish should I be aiming for a certain ratio to thin it. Ive always been going for a milk consistency You probably want to be slightly thinner than milk. You could buy some of the specific airbrush paints, drop them as is and or compare with what you're thinning to. I just started the airbrush thing and I went and bought my blocking colors in the air brush version of my paint range to avoid having to thin large batches of paint.
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2015 17:24 |
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After browsing around on kingdom death site I'm not sure if I should be more horrified that the site exists or that their miniatures are all pretty much sold out.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2015 23:29 |
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I thought that a krylon primer actually had some texture to them? Since when priming larger things the texture is helping your subsequent layers adhere, but when dealing with minis the texture is just destroying the detail? Or something...
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# ¿ Aug 19, 2015 17:26 |
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Hixson posted:pro x-post from the 40k thread: I'm really digging the paint job on the Javelin, everything looks great. Also glad to see that there is a SM vehicle that isn't a box with wheels or wings attached, the over all aesthetic is nice.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2015 20:33 |
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Phi230 posted:So this primer is a gloss primer. I'm gonna try to restart completely with a flat primer. What's the best technique to strip primer? Your original pick was pretty blurry so I couldn't tell if the primer looked off. Did you wash them before priming? As mentioned a soak in some diluted green and scrub with a toothbrush will get you back to square one. Are you spray priming or brush priming? You'd probably have to try pretty hard to over prime, if your paint is running on off the model or pooling that'san indicator. Usually a few passes with a rattle can from about a foot and some change away does the trick. Also you might want to take a knife to the mold lines like on his hat etc...
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2017 18:43 |
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Watch a few more videos on people applying wash to a miniature to get it down. The great thing about a wash is you can usually just wipe it off and reapply or soak up the excess if you loaded too much on the brush.
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# ¿ Oct 5, 2017 19:01 |
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If this one bothered you don't watch his video on wet palettes
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2017 19:44 |
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Giant Ethicist posted:
So you'r using the wash/drybrush to create more contrast under the contrast paint coat - have you tried with zenithal priming?
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2020 17:57 |
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Gameko posted:The best thing about following this and the 40k thread is how some questions get mirrored. I went looking and found that Miniac has a gallery of zenithal tests with gw contrast paints. This was linked off his zenithal tutorial on youtube. https://imgur.com/a/awx69Md
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2020 23:02 |
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Drone posted:I've painted off and on again over the years (usually a couple minis, and then I put my paints away and don't touch them for 1-2 years), and have never really done anything that I can say I'm really happy with (because I usually shelve the hobby before I get the chance to really practice it). I like the color scheme you're going with. A few suggestions: I would probably go with a gray or some sort metallic option for the muzzles of the PPC/Lasers, then dry brush some black from the muzzle back. Give you that kinda blackened from heat effect. You can find other options besides metallic paints to get the look. I think some edge highlighting like you're planning would be good as well. I think between the base color, a wash, and some highlighting you'll get the contrast you want. A black wash to pick out your panel lines would be good. I would go back and try and clean up the paint bleed around the lasers on it's chest and LRM ports. You could dry brush some grime from the feet up. You could dry bursh some sort of raw metal color on bits to simulate paint scrapes etc...
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2020 17:32 |
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Drone posted:I put a couple more hours work into my Battlemaster. Not 100% done yet, but feeling better about it now than I was earlier. Looking good. I really love Btech and the whole franchise, I just wish the minis were better.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2020 15:51 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 00:50 |
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Any tips for bringing old paints back to life? I picked up a nail polish bottle shaker/agitator and some hematite beads. Was thinking trying a couple drops of water and maybe a couple of drops of flow improver or the like then shake the poo poo out of them.
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2020 18:57 |