Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

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BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Vallejo Liquid Gold is the poo poo, good sir

# ¿ May 8, 2015 02:58

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 20:13

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Here are all my wash recipes. Devlan is, in my opinion, burnt umber with some other colors thrown in. I actually prefer my burnt umber/burnt sepia colors to the GW devlan.

code:

Camoshade
1. 	20 drops olive green
2. 	35 drops sepia
3. 	5 drops black

Dark Green
1. 	60 drops olive green
2. 	20 drops sepia

Black
1. 	20 drops black

Burnt Umber
1. 	30 burnt umber

Burnt Sepia
1. 	45 drops burnt umber
2. 	10 drops sepia
3. 	5 drops black

Sepia 
1. 	55 drops sepia

Grim Dark (Devlan Black)
1. 	55 drops sepia
2. 	15 drops black 

Indian Orange (Casandora Yellow)
1. 	25 parts Indian yellow
2. 	45 parts Flame orange
3. 	10 drops sepia

Velvet
1.	90 Violet
2.	30 Magenta
3.	20 Sepia

Aquamarine
1.	50 Florescent Blue
2.	5 Burnt Umber
3.	15 Prussian Blue
4.	2 Black

Light Blue
1.	60 Florescent Blue
2.	10 Prussian Blue

Dark Blue
1.	6 Black
2.	12 Sepia
3.	45 Prussian Blue

Indigo
1.	65 Prussian Blue
2.	40 Violet
3.	10 Black

Fire Orange
1.	100 Magenta
2.	15 Flame Orange
3.	10 Indian Yellow

# ¿ May 10, 2015 06:36

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Exinos posted:

A few pages back but do you have more info on your custom wash mixes? Like X parts water / medium per drop of paint?

I'm really happy with secret weapon washes but would not mind making some of my own as well.

Good news- secret weapon washes are Les Bursley's washes, simply repackaged. Watch his video to learn everything you need:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p08I

I tend to go about 60% matte medium and use about double the amount of flow aid he recommends, but that's just my personal preference.

# ¿ May 12, 2015 08:27

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

HardCoil posted:

Does anybody have good tips for cutting styrene tubing?

I need to make a TL lascannon for a Razorback, and my cuts always seem a little off. I've tried a normal cut, scoring while rolling and sawing, and neither seem to go well.

Any ideas on a good technique for the angled cut on the business end would also be appreciated.

Its tough. I have a set of files, which includes a large flat one. I usually make a soft cut all around the tube, score two sides, and then make the cut. After that it's a lot of trial and error with the flat file. If you can hold the tube against your table and use a flat file like I do, you will eventually get decent results. At the end of the day, though, its easier to just buy a lascannon bit from ebay.

# ¿ May 14, 2015 08:03

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Yeah I've tried both and I get results that are not impressive, especially considering the cost.

# ¿ May 14, 2015 21:43

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

HardCoil posted:

I tried some tube cutting stuff.

I did most with small metal mitre box+saw and then sanding. In the end I finally tried the tube cutter, using the trick with a smaller tube inside the one I was cutting. It seems to be a good technique, both when cutting all the way through, but also for just scoring and then cutting by other means to avoid crushing.
Incidently it's also very useful for creating lascannon coils:

Scale is not perfect, but I'm happy with it for now.

This is legit good work, dude. I'm impressed at how nice that's turned out.

# ¿ May 18, 2015 01:02

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

The new MK3 guys have a really wide stance, so he might have a hard time with it.

I dig the metal and color combo. I think you can probably get away with adding gold to the vertical wing stripe things on the shield to make him even more interesting from the front. After that a nice silver highlight over everything will make him really pop. Do you have any other plans for him?

# ¿ May 19, 2015 18:16

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Agreed. A thinned down wash can act like a filter and break up some of the shininess. Pushing the shadows is also ace advice. A fine metallic drybrush of silver over the raised surfaces would also really make this guy pop. Maybe we can do a painting clinic at my flat one of these days? Its easier to show in person.

Moola posted:

Thanks, I thought I remembered hearing this before so I must have logged that somewhere in the old noggin

If you find that its too big for the models your working on, you can cut away some of the bristles too.

# ¿ May 20, 2015 00:19

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Sounds good. Beer, games, and painting at la casa de bulbasaur

# ¿ May 20, 2015 00:26

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

I shoot that out of my airbrush, thinned about 3:1 (primer:windex), and it works pretty well.

# ¿ May 23, 2015 23:26

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

JerryLee posted:

Oath thread crosspoast:

The sorceress's face and hand look so crappy because the auto-white-balance doesn't leave the dark skin shading showing very well in those spots and I'm not good enough to fix it.

The lighting is too dark to see the depth of color and details, but I really dig the color choice you used for these guys. They look like an old painting and the weathering rocks

# ¿ May 25, 2015 19:58

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Pledge is great for everything except matte. For that, the gods created testors dullcote

# ¿ May 27, 2015 19:58

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

everythingWasBees posted:

I know miniature painting is a lot different from the painting you might do for scale modelling, due to differences in size and viewing distance. I'm curious about potentially applying some of the techniques, such as zenithal priming, to scale models and gundam kits. Does zenithal priming, for instance, help still when the kits are at a larger scale?

I wrote a thing about zenithal priming a while ago. You can still read it here, on my lovely blog.

Zenithal is great, but for larger models it alone is not enough. You'll need to combine it with color modulation and preshading to get the best depth. Luckily, you can both zenithal prime and preshade in the same step. Just do what you normally would for the zenthial prime and then follow up with a preshade using your black primer. Or just use black paint. At that point it doesn't really matter.

# ¿ May 31, 2015 01:59

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

w00tmonger posted:

I think this would be the place to ask, but what do people here use for model transport etc. I have a little army transport bag, but want to upgrade to hold more without breakign the bank.

One of my problems at the moment is that my bag has pluck-foam which has heavily restricted any future expansion. I'm using it for Warmachine, and would ideally like it to fit enough for a 2 list 50 point tournament (this isn't a must though).

KR makes good foam and I like the tray I got with my DZC minis. That said, if you want to be thrifty, their boxes are not a good deal. ~$40 for a cardboard box is, in my humble opinion, money poorly spent. Here�s what I did to save money on transport solitions.

TLDR: Buy foam from your favorite company, but don�t buy their containers unless you have no time for research.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2015 19:59

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

I just feel containers from foam companies aren't very good deals. Especially the higher end stuff and when you consider alternatives.

I almost used KR for my project, but I decided against it because I found larger foam trays for less money. If you�re ok figuring out the dimensions on your own you can find other ways to transport them that do more for less. If you don�t have the time, that�s another thing entirely. I just couldn�t justify paying $30 for an empty box.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2015 21:15

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Hot

that clean as gently caress blue and blending on the sword.

Great color choice too. That model looks great man.

# ¿ Jun 3, 2015 23:41

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

PierreTheMime posted:

Crossposting my Great Unclean One conversion using an End Times Maggoth model (minus the rider):

This looks rad and its a great conversion. If I did a great unclean one, I would totes steal your idea here

# ¿ Jun 9, 2015 19:12

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Hixson posted:

I did a exactly that for my DV deathwing terminators.

Bad picture, but you get the idea

Cut those witch nails, you nerd

# ¿ Jun 10, 2015 21:12

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

He can use those nails to drill out the barrel, win win

# ¿ Jun 10, 2015 21:26

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Sigma-X posted:

I'm new to airbrushing but am gonna be looking to pick one up soon. I know there are goon recommendations for them already.

My question is painting area / ventilation / etc. I live in SoCal so I should be able to just do this poo poo on my apartment balcony, right? Get a little table, set up a box/etc to catch overspill, wear a good mask, call it a day?

Are there any concerns with ambient temperature for airbrushing?

Sup duder. Sweet new avatar. I see the games industry is still treating you swell.

You'll be fine with that setup. I live in San Francisco and my work station is basically a desk near a well ventilated window. If I do a lot of work I fire up a fan so it goes out the window. Otherwise I just wear a good respirator (don't just buy a cloth mask, those basically do nothing). Humidity and temperature can help or hinder your paint job, but with the stable dry climate we have it's not an issue.

# ¿ Jun 16, 2015 04:15

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

HardCoil posted:

Working on converting a Centurion to a Chuck/Eddie rogue trader type dreadnought.

It's a bit too far in the Tau direction, so I'm thinking skulls and cables or something?

If you pull this off it'll probably be the only good centurion conversion anywhere ever

# ¿ Jun 18, 2015 23:16

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

SRM posted:

http://davetaylorminiatures.blogspot.com/2013/10/mechanicum-skittarii-centurion-completed.html

He did a lot of work, but it still looks like a centurion

# ¿ Jun 19, 2015 18:41

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Agreed

I mean, look at this motherfucker

# ¿ Jun 19, 2015 19:00

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

ijyt posted:

Do any of the other paint manufacturers have an equivalent colour to the new FW Lupercal Green and Sons of Horus green?

I'd order the FW one if it wasn't for the bloody shipping.

Lupercal Green looks pretty close to P3 Cryx Bane Base, which is a warmer color with a green undertone. If you mix some coal black into it you'll probably be right there.

I'd just pull up the Vallejo paint charts and see what comes closest (unless you're committed to spending $12 for 40ml of paint)

# ¿ Jun 21, 2015 21:47

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Do you use Photoshop? You can use it to sample their color codes and see how they compare to each other.

# ¿ Jun 21, 2015 23:02

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

SRM posted:

This is loving baller. I couldn't be assed to paint the interior of any of my Tauroxes, so I'm glad someone else did. There's too much detail in there for everyone to waste it.

How did you do the green on the roof of the inside? Really dig that olive drab color.

# ¿ Jun 23, 2015 05:28

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Sure, or just get an oil paint from the craft store and thin it with spirit to a really thin consistency.

I would panel line first, let it dry, and then hit it with a filter. Or seal it in with gloss between layers (so you have an easier time cleaning up)

# ¿ Jun 23, 2015 08:29

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

PyroDwarf posted:

Filter? I''m in Korea and not sure where to get stuff outside of Amazon, or an hour drive in traffic to get to Seoul.

You can get something from Amazon too. A filter is just a really thin paint applied over your entire model. Its basically a wash, but the intent isn�t to shade anything but rather to tint the color to give it some depth. Oils are the best for this, but you can use acrylics too.

# ¿ Jun 23, 2015 18:22

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

I'm too lazy to find my posts about this, but I re-hosted them on my lovely blog:

http://www.powerfisted.com/?p=44

TLDR: Seal your model with gloss, use synthetic brushes, clean up/thin with mineral spirit, wear a mask, takes a long time to dry so just seal it in with gloss and keep going

# ¿ Jun 24, 2015 00:23

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Gaylord, that marble

:eyepop:

# ¿ Jun 24, 2015 18:21

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Just do a tiny little test batch. Quick setting resin sets in just a few minutes, you'll know really fast if it is.

# ¿ Jun 26, 2015 07:27

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

That's looking amazing dude.

# ¿ Jun 29, 2015 15:49

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

I'd like to paint a small model for my grandfather. He likes history and old Spanish sailing ships, but after a lot research there are no models of spanish ships that looks good at a small scale. I don't have the time or energy to model up a 20" wooden ship either, which will be a bit overkill as a gift.

I was thinking I might try a Pegaso model like one of these:

Has anyone here had any experience with them?

# ¿ Jun 30, 2015 09:37

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

serious gaylord posted:

I've done some, all of which were metal. They were easy to assemble, but did require some putty work to fill joins. I didn't have to pin anything but that may be necessary on some models.

I'd stay away from horses since they're a bit of a nightmare to get together. They're gorgeous sculpts though and really reward painting effort.

Thanks dude, I'll see about picking one up.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 07:13

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Lord Twisted posted:

Im looking to do some Salamanders pre-heresy marines for Warhammer 30k, and I'm wondering what the painting experts here think of

a) GW vs Army Painter paints? I have both available from my FLGS, and was just wondering if one is considered vastly superior?

b) What kind of paint combo would goons recommend to achieve this kind of green:

Kind of dark and muted green but not quite Dark Angels completely dark.

I'm going to be trying freehanding on flames and stuff if anyone has a decent guide to that. Got a Deredeo dreadnought which is going to be my first project for this and I'll see how it turns out.

If you're going mostly green, I'd use the mixture OneTrueBru recommended, but Zenithal Prime that poo poo:
http://www.powerfisted.com/?p=199

Then hit it with a dark wash.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 19:34

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Partial Octopus posted:

Do you have any pictures?

It's basically the first few steps here:
http://www.powerfisted.com/?p=199

You can then put another coat of white over the top, but by and large you can bang your bascoat out entirely in the primer step.

BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Jul 3, 2015

# ¿ Jul 2, 2015 20:52

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

SRM if you need future Russian sayings to paint on stuff all you need to do is say "I choose you, BULBASAUR, the worst Pokemon"

# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 06:09

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

SRM posted:

I'd expect my tanks to be covered in variations of "I'm gay" and "Bulbasaur roolz"

If I slip one of those in there, it would be worth it

# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 18:45

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Geisladisk posted:

What kind of glue should I use to glue magnets to plastic? I've been trying to glue magnets to my X-Wing bases using superglue, but it just doesn't hold up.

You need to drill a hole the size of the magnet and then glue it that way. Rear earth magnets are strong enough that gluing a single face isn't always enough to hold them. You need more surface area.

# ¿ Jul 3, 2015 22:24

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# ¿ May 9, 2024 20:13

BULBASAUR: Apr 6, 2009; Soiled Meat

Drake_263 posted:

I have a question for you guys - how do you know something is authentic Forge World stuff?

Answer:

No self-respecting Chinese recaster would waste this much resin.

I planning a conversion where I replace the treads with aftermarket spiky chaos ones.

I'm filled with dread

# ¿ Jul 6, 2015 20:00

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