Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

I don't think it can be emphasized enough how much cool stuff you can do with modern plastics:

I don't know if you or anyone else cares, but the power armored hand holding the crozius is noticeably smaller than the terminator hand with the storm bolter. It's a pretty easy fix with one of the spare mace hands from the Deathwing kit though. I have done this myself.

:spergin:

# ¿ Aug 25, 2015 20:14

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# ¿ May 21, 2024 15:26

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

SRM posted:

I thought about it, but I don't actually have any spare mace hands! I figure once the thing's painted it'll all look fine anyway. I didn't want to cut up the Crozius hand.

I have a few of them if you want one. It's pretty easy to cut off the crozius while preserving the entire thing. I cut away most the hand, but left a small remnant on each end of the crozius. I carefully shaved that away and filed it down a little, no detail lost. I then pinned both ends in place on a mace hand. It looks so much better, but that sort of thing really gets to me. I know no one else will notice it, but I'll still know.

I swear that despite my similar offer today in the 40k thread, I am not trying to be weird about sending you bits. This is purely coincidental. :v:

# ¿ Aug 25, 2015 21:26

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Avenging Dentist posted:

Hell yeah Hobbyzone rules. Here's my current setup, normally hidden in my closet, but I can take individual modules out into my work area depending on what I'm working on at the time:

I also have one of their painting tables, but that's less interesting to look at.

I think I need something like this in my life.

Edit: Not at $30+ shipping to the US. :v:

I'll figure something else out.

Safety Factor fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Nov 12, 2015

# ¿ Nov 12, 2015 01:32

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

The Locator posted:

Think outside the box. It might have been in this thread, or the scale modeling thread, or somewhere else entirely, but someone mentioned lipstick display racks.

Behold, less than $30 total on Amazon (and Prime eligible so no shipping for me):

I still want to get a nice setup of those Hobbyzone things at some point for all the rest of my tools and crap, but short term for the painting stuff, this works great.

I just grabbed a 60 nail polish rack off of Amazon for like $13. Hopefully my paint fits and if not it's no big deal. I really only need to solve my paint storage and if it's all neatly organized I might actually use it more often. :v:

Come to think of it, I probably got the same rack you have there. I should be safe.

# ¿ Nov 12, 2015 04:51

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

krushgroove posted:

Dammit, I'm in Texas (coming from the UK) all next week but I'm going to miss this sale. Michael's is one of the places I'm planning to hit to pick up hobby stuff!

If you're going to be anywhere near Houston, check out Texas Art Supply. It's not that Michael's is bad or anything, it's just more of a mass market art store for little, old ladies. I can't speak for the other major cities, but I'm sure they all have something similar.

# ¿ Nov 12, 2015 20:22

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Indolent Bastard posted:

Winsor & Newton Series 7 Brush Gift Set Includes 4 Small Rounds only $17.50 with free shipping on Amazon. I have no idea why the price is so low.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00YEMI8ZY/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Screw it, $17.50 spent. Amazon says they won't ship until March or April though. I can always cancel the order if need be.

# ¿ Jan 8, 2016 20:22

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Any advice on painting black power armor? I have made a poor decision and am starting 30k with a Dark Angels army. Instead of the dark green I'm used to, it'll involve a ton of black armor which I only have had limited experience with. I checked the OP and watched the tutorial there, but it seemed a little too sloppy to me. The process was essentially basecoat black, slop dark grey onto raised surfaces, and highlight with a lighter grey. Is that it? Is there anything more advanced or simply neater? I am a decently skilled painter so feel free to toss whatever at me.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2016 01:28

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

To detail the basic scheme a little more, 30k Dark Angels use red symbols and silver shoulder trim. They also feature some white/black checker patters that I'm excited to try out. I will be adding the occasional green stripe or panel for grins.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2016 02:16

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Thanks for the advice, y'all. I think my planned scheme will have enough going on that the models won't be simply flat black. I'll stick to black primary with dark grey and light grey highlights. Should let the rest of the scheme breathe a bit more. Luckily, I have a bunch of spare 40k marines that I can use as practice before I mess up on the actual 30k stuff. I already tried doing that first tutorial's method, but with a black wash to tie the dark grey and black together a bit more. While it looked too sloppy before the wash, with it it is almost unnoticeable. I think I won't bother with that and stick to a two-tiered highlight instead.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2016 19:34

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

PantsOptional posted:

I thought that was New England.

They get it honest.

# ¿ Mar 28, 2016 05:10

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Z the IVth posted:

I aztec my ships by hand

Is that what I think it is? :allears:

# ¿ Apr 17, 2016 04:53

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Hixson posted:

c-c-c-c-crosspost

Safety Factor posted:

# ¿ Jul 28, 2017 20:32

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

My local store held a painting contest yesterday. Contestants had a month to paint a Warhammer/AoS model of their choice, to be judged by someone with an actual background in art. Naturally, I chose loving SLAMBO.

I did my best to mimic the studio scheme, that blended green took 3-4 hours to do. It was done with three shades of green and then tied together with a glaze. Highlights were done in yet another two shades of green and took another couple of hours. :shepface:

Not to mention the metallics and other details. Either way, this model was a ton of fun to paint and I got to try out new techniques I will probably never, ever use again. As ever, there are a couple of things I'd like to touch up, like the highlights on the eyebrow ridge, but all entries are being kept on display at the store for two weeks.

Anyways, back to the contest, there were a lot of great entries, including one by a commission painter. I thought I'd maybe take second or third, but the main competition, a skaven grey seer on a monstrous rat ogre-beast (formerly the End Times version of Thanquol and Boneripper), was apparently missing some attention to detail and I squeaked by. It was actually a tie, but the judge gave it to me because I had the higher painting score. I didn't even know what I was competing for and it turned out I won a $35 gift card.

SLAMBO

Safety Factor fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jul 30, 2017

# ¿ Jul 30, 2017 23:19

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

The black and its highlights look fine. Thinning them down with the base color is just part of the process. At least it is for me. :downs:

Personally, I aim for blue-grey highlights to make the black look polished and reflective. Forgive the old GW paint names, but they're what I use:
Shadow Grey
Fortress Grey
Space Wolves Grey on the sharpest edges/corners

# ¿ Jul 31, 2017 23:11

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Hixson posted:

Finished some NightBoi tanks

These are really good. The lightning bolts themselves could be a little more prominent though. They kind of get swallowed up by the aura/glow effects.

Safety Factor fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Oct 17, 2017

# ¿ Oct 17, 2017 01:21

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Crosspostin'

Safety Factor posted:

Finally finished another squad after forging through various distractions like Catachans and SLAMBO. It's been a long, long time. I've continued my trend of Too Many Checkers and simple individual heraldry. It's probably too much work for simple tactical marines, but I think it's been worth it. I also used 10 phobos pattern bolters and 10 chainswords from the MkIII kit as I had a bunch laying around. My MkIII are being used as support/heavy support squads so they don't need them. I really like the look of the MkIV armor with the MkIII weapons and wish I had done all of my tacticals like that.

I definitely feel like my second squad is an improvement on the first. Between projects like my terminator chaplain and the aforementioned Catachans and SLAMBO, I really feel like I've gotten better over the last year or so.

The sergeant, vexilla, vox operator, and a couple of normal guys. It's not visible, but the sergeant's shoulder pad is bone bisected by a checkered stripe. The squad's heraldry is meant to emulate that as well. The sergeant is magnetized for power sword or power fist.

The mooks:

Here's all that I have painted so far:

Next up, three ~~rhinos~~ METAL BOXES. I plan on emulating these squads' heraldry on the top hatches to mark them out. It's been a long time since I've painted vehicles and I'm pretty excited. I still have my Lord of War Toxx to do too.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2017 00:35

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

The Sex Cannon posted:

If you've been listening to the Badcast, then you know that I've been threatening to get a new phone for a while now. And if you're not listening to the Badcast, then I suggest you do so.

Well, I got my new phone, and that means model pictures. Here's the Raven Guard I've been working on:

These are great. The highlights are really clean which is critical for good-looking black armor. You've really nailed it and the greys you've chosen give it a matte effect which is perfect for Raven Guard. Personally, I like using a blue-grey for the first layer to give a slightly glossy/polished effect, but that wouldn't suit things here.

The banner's well done too. Is the Raven Guard symbol a transfer?

# ¿ Feb 15, 2018 00:37

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

I've been working on my Shadespire orcs and they're almost finished, but I thought I'd post them up to get some thoughts.

The basic idea was to mimic an old WHFB Black Orc paint scheme with black armor, white checks, and some weathering. This was my first attempt at weathering (I typically favor clean schemes) and I tried out sponging. I used a dark metal followed by GW's leadbelcher and edged those sections with dark brown. In hindsight, I should have sponged with the brown first, but I think that all turned out fine and I'm pretty happy with it. However, I'm still iffy on the weapons. I was trying to make them look like big, lovely hunks of metal and used a lot of drybrusing followed by normal edge highlighting. I later added the brass as they were just too plain. I'm not 100% happy with the drybrushed look, but that could just be because it's not my usual style. Do y'all think it would be worth redoing weapons or am I just being weird?

The bases aren't quite done either. They've been done in a greyish tone as I figure Shadespire's not exactly teeming with life and don't do much to offset the black armor. I will be adding a tuft or two of dead grass once the models are varnished.

Safety Factor fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Feb 27, 2018

# ¿ Feb 27, 2018 17:28

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

I have a painting question this thread might be able to help with. I think I've finally decided on a titan legion for Adeptus Titanicus and they've got an interesting scheme. They're primarily a mottled green with red accents. My basic idea for the green is to start with a dark base and sponge on coats of progressively lighter greens, particularly towards the center of each panel. Once the greens are in place, I'd do a thinned green glaze to tie everything together. Would my proposed method work? I haven't worked much with sponging in the past, but I am fairly experienced with blending and mostly aim for a clean style with a lot of edge highlighting.

Sorry for the bad picture, but this is the only modern example I can find of this scheme. All of the others are hilariously old models with retro neon paint jobs. While that's still cool, it's not what I'd be aiming for.

# ¿ Oct 26, 2018 21:55

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Crosspostin'

:siren:

WIP

There's still plenty to be done here. I've still got to shade and highlight the additional armor panels - I've already taken care of the panels that are part of the body. After that, I've got details to do like the plasma (blue) and lenses (yellow). Still not sure what color to do the missiles, but may go with bone. I'm planning on an urban basing scheme for these models to help offset the green and brass.

And then there's the decals. :shepface:

# ¿ Jun 21, 2019 03:05

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Titan update:

Safety Factor posted:

TITANS COMPLETE
(except for basing and decals)

So I was dumb enough to paint an entire venator maniple at once. These models were honestly a joy to work on and I love the sense of scale each has to it. I'm looking forward to expanding on that with some urban basing down the line, but I've gotta figure out the details first. These are all Legio Solaria and the mottled green was a really nice break from my 30k Dark Angels. I chose Solaria primarily because I was trying to break out from endless black/silver/white/red. I really like painting green, it's why I originally chose Dark Angels way back when. They also happened to be focused on warhounds which are my favorite class. It was an easy choice to make. The green was achieved by starting with a Caliban Green base coat and then sponging on successively paler greens. With each step drifting towards a focal point of a panel, usually the center. The full process is listed below:
1. Base coat - Caliban Green
2. Sponge - Castellan Green
3. Sponge - Loren Forest
4. Sponge - Nurgling Green
5. Sponge - Deepkin Flesh
6. Glaze - 50/50 Waywatcher Green/medium
7. Sponge - Deepkin Flesh
It's easier than it looks, sponging is super quick. I recess shaded with Nuln Oil as I hit the trim as well. Additionally, a couple of the warhounds have aquila decorations on their shin plates. I tried to emulate red sandstone for those as I feel like that'd be a fitting element for a titan legion centered around a hunting cult. I'll carry this forward where I can. I also broke from the scheme shown in the Titandeath book by going for brass trim instead of silver. I feel it works better with the green and isn't lost against the silver of the skeleton. The limited heraldry of Solaria has also been a welcome change from the endless checkers of 30k Dark Angels. They don't really do checkers or stripes like the other titan legions and it's been so nice to not have to worry about those things. Decals will hopefully fill that role.

I'm also breaking with my usual habit and actually naming my models for once. Just seems fitting for this game. As I'm doing Legio Solaria, the Imperial Hunters, I had to come up with a good, fitting theme. It took a while, but I decided to name my warhounds after extinct canids and the rest flowed from there. Reavers are named after living fossils and warlords are megafauna. I'll worry about additional titan classes when they come. If we ever get an imperator, it'll be a dinosaur.

So that's all the boring poo poo out of the way, here are the pictures:
Group shots:

Sphenodon Punctatus:

Xenocyon:

Metatomarctus:

Lupus Spelaeus:

Theriodictis:

Going forward, I need to base, varnish, and get some decals on these things, but my main focus is going to be painting a warlord titan. The rest can wait. I haven't chosen a name for it yet, but I do have plans for a melta/chainfist reaver (Macrochelys) and at least two more warhounds (Lepophagus and Aelurodon). One of those warhounds will be double plasma and the other will be double flamer. I vacillate between choosing the names as they fit a titan's role or just because it sounds good. Lepophagus is a favorite though. It means "hare eater" which seems fitting for a close-in warhound.

Overall, I can't recommend these kits enough. Working to a different scale than 30k/40k is refreshing in itself and the models are fantastic. If anyone's on the fence with Titanicus, grab a box of warhounds and see where you wind up.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2019 21:24

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Warlord WIP :siren:

Still to do: Highlight the red and bone segments, highlight the silver nodules on the shoulders, pick out another couple of lenses, minor clean up, shade/highlight/clean up the head, etc. The left foot is raised and resting on a blob of greenstuff for now. Later, once I get around to final basing, it'll be resting on a pile of rubble.

I also have this goddamn pile of arms and weapons :shepface:

I'll be honest, I love this kit. I think this warlord is the single best model GW has ever produced. There are a couple of small things that could've been improved, such as cables being picked out better, but they're so minor they're unimportant and are likely a limitation of plastic versus resin at this scale. It takes forever to paint though. So much goddamn trim. I worked on one reaver and four warhounds simultaneously before this and that somehow felt like less of a slog. I think that's hindisght screwing with me though. Here's a little size comparison:

I also sincerely love the Solaria color scheme. It is such a nice break from the constant checkers and stripes that cover my 30k Dark Angels. Their heraldry is relatively simple and they have that beautiful mottled green. :swoon:

Heads and weapons are just red, but I've still got a lot left to do.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2019 18:04

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Slimnoid posted:

I dig the mottled green look. What's your gold recipe, by the way?

It's brass, actually. :v:

I got into using it with my 30k DA and really fell in love with it. I use it pretty much anywhere I would have previously used gold on them and save the gold for officers and occasional sergeants. With my titans, Solaria is actually supposed to have silver trim going off of their art in the Titandeath campaign book, but I thought that would blend too much with the silver skeleton so I fell back on my brass. I'm really glad I did and I like how well it sets off the greens without being overpowering.

Anyways, it's basecoated with Runelord Brass (over black if possible), washed with Nuln Oil, highlighted with Skullcrusher Brass (a really reddish brass, it's an odd color) and then Sycorax Bronze. I then clean up any big, flat areas with a thinned coat of Runelord Brass.

# ¿ Aug 9, 2019 01:30

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Slimnoid posted:

Right on. I'm hoping the golds I have already are a close approximation.

Safe to assume the mottled look came through sponging? I've done it in the past, mind, but I've also seen people do it using stippling via brushes.

Yeah, the green is almost all sponging. I use a glaze to tie things together, but that's about it. I just use KR foam or whatever, rip it into small pieces, and hold it in a pair of tweezers. I posted a full list of the paints I use in the 40k thread earlier:

Safety Factor posted:

Thanks. The green is actually really simple, I sponge up from Caliban Green to Deepkin Flesh; each layer is paler than the last. I'll include the full list of steps for you.
Bascoat the panels Caliban Green
Sponge the following colors, drawing towards the center or other focal point as they get lighter
Castellan Green
Loren Forest
Elysian Green
Nurgling Green
Deepkin Flesh
Glaze thinned Waywatcher Green (50/50 glaze/medium) over entire panels to tie the greens together ( GW glazes, but I've got a stash and one pot pre-thinned)
Sponge Deepkin Flesh one final time towards the center/focal point
Then it's brass for the trim and recess shading at the edges with Nuln Oil. Followed by endless trim highlighting.

I know it looks like a lot of steps, but sponging is really fast and you can do an entire titan's panels at once. Hell, I did five at once for my venator maniple.

# ¿ Aug 9, 2019 05:06

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Crosspost from the 30k thread:

Safety Factor posted:

Seekers complete
I converted these guys out of Raven Guard Mor Deythan because I like the models and wanted some mkVI in army. It's one of my favorite designs and there's not much room for it in most legions, but I figured seekers would work just fine. Conversions were pretty simple; I had to trim off the various RG emblems, clip off the shoulder pads (they're built in), green stuff new mounting/inner pads, and shave the trim off of a bunch of mkIV pads to get the right look.

Painting-wise, the main thing I did here was add another, slightly lighter grey to my blends. I had previously done black and dark grey, but they weren't really noticeable to anyone but me. There are a lot of flat panels on these models and the lack of knee pads makes things a little weird. I tried to pick a direction for the light hitting each model so they're not all identical. This will be my new standard for painting black going forward. Other than that, I did my usual Dark Angels heraldry and played around with masking fluid for the cloaks. I've got a vigilator with the exact same cloak design waiting to be finished as well.

On to the models!

This unit was a long project and I was a huge dumbass and did them as a batch of ten alongside some characters I was basecoating. I was finishing them at LVO as a result, but still had a few more details and touch ups to do when I got home. I got a few games in with them though and I was pretty happy with how they performed. I am really happy to have these guys done and I'm already mulling over a couple of options for my next project. Speaking of which...

Additional WIP

This guy is meant to act as a tartaros delegatus/centurion/warmonger/whatever. He's converted out of the Blood Angels praetor with all of the decorations shaved off. I've still got some minor filing/smoothing to do, but nothing major. The combi-weapon will get magnetized between a couple of options which is why it's held on with sticky tack for now. My current plan is to put together a full terminator ZM list by LVO next year and they'll be led by this idiot. You can fit something like 20 in 1000 points and I need to see how that goes.

# ¿ Feb 2, 2020 18:02

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Just finished my first five Orlocks with a little weathering. I don't have an actual photo set up right now (my lightbox is back home in storage) so I fudged something together with desk lamps and sheets of printer paper.
Gangers

Juves

I really enjoyed painting these guys. The Orlock models are great and I have 15 more to do :shepface:

. I'm not 100% happy with the black leather yet, but I'll tweak my recipe a bit on the next five. Maybe do some blending. I'll also be doing some more hazard stripes on shoulder plates, back plates, etc. My scheme is overall pretty dark and the extra spot colors help. I kept the metal darker than I usually do with my marines (House of Iron and all that) and I want to keep weathering light, but definitely not as clean as my usual style.

For my next project, I'm going to bounce back to my Blood Bowl lizardmen. I have four skinks done and I'll be working on three of the saurus next. They're big, beefy boys and covered in detail and scales so I don't want to do all six at once. My chosen skin tone is an homage to my old WHFB ( :rip:

) army. However, since the team is already green, I want to have the chameleon skinks stand out so I'm going to get weird with them.

I am fully planning on classic grass/astroturf bases with goblin green rims.

# ¿ Apr 2, 2020 17:20

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Fatkraken posted:

http://screameleons.com/chameleon-breeder/

Exactly what I'm going for. I fully plan on one with red skin and yellow stripes. Not sure what I'll do for the second yet.

# ¿ Apr 3, 2020 00:41

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

The Moon Monster posted:

I know everyone hates the nipple horns

[citation needed]

# ¿ Apr 18, 2020 18:26

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Hello friends, please click the link below and consider participating in my little charity event. We're all bored in lockdown right now so I thought we might be able to channel that into something a little more productive. I will be donating money to a food bank for every model completed in the next couple of months. All you have to do to participate is post pictures of your models though other options will be available for those who'd like to do more. It is somewhat focused on 28mm stuff, but there are other categories available and if your models aren't represented, just let me know and we can work something out.

Full details in the thread, click the banner below to find out more:

# ¿ May 5, 2020 18:09

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# ¿ May 21, 2024 15:26

Safety Factor: Oct 31, 2009; Grimey Drawer

Crosspostin' from the Old World thread.

Safety Factor posted:

Here's a quick and dirty test model for my Tzeentch scheme. Unfortunately, my lightbox died on me so the lighting isn't great. The model is a little lighter overall in person.

Overall, I'm really happy with how it turned out. It's meant to be a simpler scheme so that I can get an army on the table. For example, I did a lot of drybrushing on the cloak in place of my usual blending and it worked really well. However, I see some room for improvement:
1. I don't think the blue came out quite the way I wanted. I put two layers of airbrushed highlights over the base coat before going on to brush work and it doesn't really stand out the way I wanted. I think I need to push the highlights further. I have a darker metallic blue I could use for the recesses under my original base coat.
2. My oil shade might have been a little light. I also used black and I'm wondering if a different color might work better.
3. I like the cloak, but I think I need darker shadows to let the burgundy/maroon stand out more. I think I'll start with a little black mixed in to darken it.
4. Not happy with the horns. I tried hitting them with contrast and then diluting the tips. I've done it on previous models, but I'm not satisfied with the results. I want to avoid wet blending for the sake of speed so I'll figure something out.
5. I drybrushed the edges of the cloak with the same colors as the base and applied some pigments as well. It doesn't show as much as I'd like so I'll need to go a little heavier.

Next up, I'll be doing the other 9 warriors and a sorcerer. The sorcerer will just be along for the ride until his armor is done. Then he'll be split off as a solo project.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2024 17:14

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body