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JoshTheStampede posted:Edit 2: ALso, as a counterpoint, All three of the winners at Crystal Brush (all "real pro painters" with DVDs and everything) heavily featured NMM. It's not a dead technique by any stretch. If by all you mean one sure. It's an exceptionally dated technique at this point. There's nothing stopping you from liking it but even when it's done extremely well like the knight you linked it still doesn't look as good as the pinnacle of real metals. And yeah, wet blending has been basically entirely superseded by TBB at this point (which is a refinement of wet blending if you want to be technical). El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 19:36 on May 8, 2015 |
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May 8, 2015 19:33
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JoshTheStampede posted:No, I mean all three of the top three. Kiril Kanaev's space marine, Ben Komet's pirate diorama and Jessica Rich's dryad thing, though admittedly Rich's has significantly less than the other two. All the actual metal surfaces on the marine are in real metals, and the pirate one has very limited NMM (and mixes the two in odd ways that are pretty cool IMHO). The Dryad is the only one that is done with entirely NMM.
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May 8, 2015 19:37
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Twincityhacker posted:What is the recomended color to paint kahki? I've tried a few different colors, and my doughboys keep coming out peach or a light yellow. Panzer Aces US Tank Highlight or VMC Khaki.
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May 10, 2015 19:08
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If you have a big hardon for the old GW cases the same company is, IIRC, still making them or a very close derivative of them called Infinity Cases as cases to carry sensitive instruments.
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Jun 4, 2015 05:26
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If you're going to drybrush the armor like that with so much contrast you need to think more about light sourcing because right now it's causing some weird shadow stuff where your drybrush hasn't colored random parts as much as the others (tops of the shoulders). Also I assume since it's WIP you're going to still pick out a lot of the details, because right now you desperately need to break up the huge swaths of single color you have going on parts of the armor. A heavy wash will help and honestly it will help create breaks between the armor and the other colors.
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Jun 17, 2015 13:25
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BirdieBedtime posted:Hi goons. I'm wondering if anyone has advice for weathering dark armor. Most of the weathering advice I've found / followed in the past assumes armor colors that will show all the steps of sponge chipping, for reference, this duder: Sponge chipping/hairspray weathering will be fine, people do it on dark colored tanks all the time.
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Jun 18, 2015 22:02
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Sigma-X posted:so if I pull the trigger on a cheapo airbrush/compressor from amazon (with the expectation that I'll eventually sell this to a co-worker and step up to badger gear), and buy a giant loving pile of vallejo game air paints (they've got a kit that's 47 paints plus primers and cleaning stuff and everything for like $200?), will I be able to use the Game Air paints to paint with a brush or would that be a bad idea? I would get a Veda instead of a Master. They are usually a tiny bit more but they are generally much much better. Quality control on them is all over the place (much like Master) but I've honestly used Veda's that were on par with some of the lower end "real" airbrushes. Also check your local harbor freight if you have one, they sometimes just have the gravity feed Masters for under 20 sometimes.
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Jun 22, 2015 06:10
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w00tmonger posted:Painting a bunch of skin-tone for a dude but its coming out a bit similar to his copper armor. Consider doing a filter over the whole model. It will tie in all your colors and the similarity between the flesh tone and the armor will become a positive as opposed to a negative.
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Jun 23, 2015 07:06
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Speckled Jim posted:Im looking at painting some black power armour shortly and I seem to remember a sugestion for a black paint that wasnt super black. I only have Abaddon black at the moment and not being able to add shadows makes things look a bit lackluster. Something that you can still wash would be super. Reaper HD Military Grey followed by a wash of Golden Shading Grey Acrylic and then polished off with some Vallejo Matte Varnish to kill the shine. Those Golden transparent shading acrylics are magic in a bottle if you can learn how to work with their dry time.
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Jun 23, 2015 09:58
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Hamshot posted:Anyone know how to do this paint streaking effect that this guy did on his models? It's called Streaking Grime/rain marks. Several companies make it, you stripe it onto surface and then use mineral spirits to dilute it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMJVdycmJ98 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJiUKx8J9Is https://youtu.be/DQVScNpd2cI
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Jun 24, 2015 01:41
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w00tmonger posted:Picked up some legion for warmachine and I'm brainstorming color schemes. Also wondering what I should do for basing as I'd love to do something interesting (and hopefully practical). You can buy a big bag of frosted white sea glass at any craft store and then base snow over it to make cool giant ice pieces covered in snow.
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Jul 5, 2015 04:37
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SRM posted:I'm cooling on them a little, since their Crystal Blue chips and peels off everything and a bunch of my Ultras are all beat up even though they're drowned in varnish. I've started using it over white primer and so far so good. Try Montana Universal Primer. It's for graffiti and spray paint art and it goes on super thin but makes the layers of paint you put on after it stick much better. I don't usually use it for minis but I used to use it when making distressed furniture and painting custom LARP weapons and it works real good. I've also used their Silverchrome paint and it's the real deal when it comes to doing silver base coats. Also Gesso. I know a lot of people hate it, but I honestly think it' amazing, especially if you work with metal surfaces. Recently I've been reading a lot about prep work for minis and discovered a lot of traditional modellers paint their minis with thinned down greenstuff, milliput or plastic surfacer to smooth them out and Gesso does a similar job. Basically though, if I had to name two products that are straight up amazing that more miniatures painters need to be using it's Montana gold and Golden High Flow Transparent Acrylics (basically some of the best washes you can buy and they are cheaaaaaap).
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Jul 6, 2015 18:56
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Sydney Bottocks posted:More details, please! Right now I mainly rely on the Army Painter inks for washes, but I'm always interested in potentially adding new weapons to my painting arsenal. The one I've used the most is transparent shading grey. It goes on very very shiny and it dries differently than a lot of miniatures paints, basically it will dry to the point where you cant move it very quickly but it will remain slightly tacky where you could, for instance, leave a fingerprint in it. You can usually find them for somewhere in the 5-6 dollar range for huge bottles, but just like the old GW ink or washes made with Future you need to use matte varnish on top of it to make it look good.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:44
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everythingWasBees posted:Not actually mini related, but you all seem to have the most experience with various varnishes and protective glosses. I'm hoping to get a silver paint pen signature or a white marker pen signature on a piece of heavily handled electronics. Am I right that if I want it to be protected, a layer of future is probably the best way to go? I'm willing to spend more if there's a more durable product. I really just want to varnish the signature itself so anything I can apply precisely is a plus. I have Nathan Fillions signature on a Katana that is under two layers of future and one of Vallejo matte varnish and it seems to be doing OK. It was a bit scuffed by the time I put the varnish on but it doesn't seem to have been harmed since then by people removing the sword from the scabbard and then putting it back in.
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Jul 15, 2015 23:26
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I'd argue Reaper metals are better than bones. Just a few dollars more and the quality is so much higher, plus working with Bones is a pain in the rear end and not really what I would recommend as the best way to get into the hobby. I'd try and avoid anything super detail heavy as well, maybe start with some goblins, skeletons or similar things that aren't modeled with the PHP's worth of gear on their back. Really though it depends on what themes you like. It's worth going to the clearance section of places like Miniature Market and seeing if they have anything discounted that looks cool: http://www.miniaturemarket.com/clearance/table-top-miniatures.html This guy would be a good pick for instance since he's a pretty simple robot guy with not a lot of finnicky details: http://www.miniaturemarket.com/spm146007.html
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Jul 25, 2015 16:42
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ijyt posted:Does anyone have a recommendation to get a similar base colour of the ice, as well as the grey of the coat? Maybe VGC Electric Blue?
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Jul 26, 2015 19:06
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But seriously, if you decide to dip using wood stain or army painter remember to use some goddamn matte varnish afterwards. Go watch the Dr Faust video on army painter quickshade to get an extremely good example why.
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Jul 27, 2015 20:31
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It will look fine as long as you throw down a heavy glaze and then panel wash/streaking grime the poo poo out of it. Then it will basically look like a shipping container which has been salt weathered (as in by real salty sea water, not the minis technique).
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Jul 30, 2015 06:32
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I Am The Scum posted:
No, you want the Rusto 2X Primer without the paint.
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Aug 2, 2015 08:00
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bencreateddisco posted:just getting back into painting again, was never any good to begin with When you have a lot of one "type" of metal, like on the first model you need to mix up what sort of armor washes you're using. I'd recommend using slightly different washes for, say, the armor, sword and shield. This way even though they are all silver, they aren't actually the same color so it doesn't make the model look plain. I'd also recommend going back over the trim on the armor and highlighting it with a silver color so it contrasts with the flat non-detailed parts more. There are a lot of options for washing your armor, a few good ones are: -Secret Weapon Armor Wash: A really good color but kinda ruddy. It's a very green/grey/dunkelgrau sort of look. Don't overdo it. -GW Black Wash: Best commercially available black wash, good for really "clean" looking steels. -GW Brown: Use this for older more worn metals like pirate sabers and such. Can be mixed 1:1 with GW Black to make a good armor wash as well. -Black Magic Wash: Either make your own or buy from Warstore (DiDi's is good stuff, I like it more than my homemade batch because it's very color consistent and cheap). Also good for clean metals and good for making dividing areas of metals (you could use it for instance on the lower area of a trimmed piece of armor). -Golden High Flow Shading Grey: Really good but dries shiny and dries incredibly fast, good for mixing with other washes and inks to make custom stuff. -Vallejo Smoke: Very subtle wash but good for doing light shading on areas. Pairs well with drybrushing. -GW Rust: Also an option to mix up metals, but expensive. -MIG Washes: very good, dry kinda shiny, smell awful, do their job really well. Less is more with MIG washes. -Army Painter Dark Tone: Good, dries shiny, very very thick, attracts dust and cat hair like a magnet, takes forever to dry. Unzip and Attack posted:I tried that and the bright spot persists. Apply a gloss coat and then apply a matte coat.
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Aug 5, 2015 23:31
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Moola posted:Cheers duders Seal it with varnish. Without any UV protection it will fade really quickly to a sort of tan shade. I know this because I make all my own basing materials and flocks out of natural materials and I often intentionally let them age in order to get the sort of dry southern swamp grass look I want. Here's an example of some speed painted Mordheim ghouls hanging out on a piece of terrain from my table.  That grass was like Dark Angels Green when it was applied, for reference, and faded to this shade. I had some of it pre faded laying around so I used it on the ghouls to get a good match.
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Aug 10, 2015 00:15
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Kommando posted:But i have all these solvents by virtue of working in a lab, that dont leave residue. Just use dish soap.
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Aug 10, 2015 04:50
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JerryLee posted:Looking to see if anyone knows of candidates for a particular sort of mini. I'm looking for something diminutive compared to a human-sized 28mm figure, posed to carry something. The feel I'm going for is an artifact bearer, a lot like the dude holding the Dark Angel Lion Helm (click here if you don't know what that looks like). There is a really cool old Chaos Sorcerer model called Stabb but he's kinda hard to find these days. Lot's of good options from Reaper, not so much in their actual Familiar packs: The Squire is one of my fave models: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Boneyard%20squire/sku-down/P14212B http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/P03438B/sku-down/P03438B http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Bloodstone%20Gnomes/sku-down/14625 Other Options: http://www.miniaturemarket.com/hornm-08.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/pip34022.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/wyr20223.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/wyr20421.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/cishd1010.html http://www.miniaturemarket.com/cshd4004.html
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Aug 11, 2015 05:43
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Honestly at 28/32mm scale you don't need to paint pupils. They just wouldn't be all that visible at that scale anyways. If you get them the correct size they look fine, but usually people paint them way to large and it looks cartoony. For example here are two separate miniatures I have painted. The first one has correctly scaled pupils, the second one had no pupils, at a distance greater than a foot it's basically impossible to tell them apart:   If you're going to do pupils I don't advocate the style where you paint a white line on either side of a blackened off eye socket. Instead I would advocate painting the eye black and then painting a half moon shape from corner to corner of the socket. It's harder to do, but it gives a much more centered pupil and avoids the serious case of lazy eye syndrome a lot of figs end up with. Really tho, I'd say just paint the eye solid white and then wash it with a light black, brown or skintone wash and call it good. If you wanna cheat you can do a trick I learned from a pro painter friend of mine: Use a very sharp and very fine pointed sewing pin or pin vise pin and drill tiny pupil holes into the eye of the miniature. Then after you paint the eye white, you can just go over it with some GW black wash or black magic wash and the wash will pool only in the corners of the eye (giving you shading) and the small pupil hole you poked (giving you a pupil). I'd recommend practicing it a few times on models you don't care about because finding exactly how deep to punch the holes is sort of an art not a science and it can take practice.
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Aug 13, 2015 07:39
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Seal your snow bases made with baking soda with some varnish. Otherwise you'll see it turn to a piss yellow color in a few years.
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Aug 20, 2015 03:45
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stabbington posted:I'm pretty sure that Chessex just rebrands them, since I've got one of those that I use to hold my modeling tools that I bought at an art store a few years ago, sans foam. Yeah, I'm pretty sure you could find something similar at Michael's or Hobby Lobby.
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Sep 11, 2015 22:58
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Not a viking posted:Anyone here got a recipe for sculpting top hats? I would use plasticard rod and then deform it using a soldering iron or other form of heat that will let you, uh, scrunch and flop it. This is assuming you want a sort of Malifaux/Tim Burton style top hat with a lot of character. I feel like it'd take a few tries but once you figured out how to heat the plasticard rod you could manipulate it to give it more pizzazz.
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Sep 25, 2015 05:52
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everythingWasBees posted:So I have a few brush questions. I know sable brushes are the way to go according to the OP but in my experience they're generally for oil and watercolor, as acrylic isn't exactly kind to brushes. However, this experience is more based on traditional painting rather than miniature work. With the amount of paint, and as thinned down as it is, is it a bit different for miniatures work? Golden Taklon is fine. Lots of people use Kolinsky Sable, but honestly unless you're in the top 1% of painters you're not gonna see a lot of return for your money for the steep investment IMHO.
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Sep 27, 2015 22:18
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Post 9-11 User posted:I have a Do you need the paint itself to be magnetic or do you just need metallic paint that will adhere to magnets?
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Oct 12, 2015 03:29
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weird question
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SRM posted:Don't wash whole vehicles. You'll get some really gross pooling that won't actually make your model look weathered and dirty, it'll just make it look like poo poo. Use wash strategically around rivets and raised details and use it to shade the recesses of the model only, then clean it up with the base color. I mean, you can do it but you need the skills to do it well. I paint basically all my big constructs and vehicles with washes and inks these days, but it wasn't until I started reading serious Euromodelismo stuff that I really got into painting vehicles using primarily wash based weathering.
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Oct 12, 2015 03:38
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Floppychop posted:Does anyone know a good place for 30mm base inserts that's available in the US? The CMON one's are OK but spendy as are the official Malifaux ones. If you haven't based yet it's honestly cheaper to just get 30mm bases. I really like the Secret Weapons ones but there are tons of great companies on eBay these days. Scibor also does really really impressive bases, especially in large sizes. My dreamer crew is on his overgrown ruins style ones.
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Oct 12, 2015 05:18
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I bought some of these because they were at nova where I got my These one's are kind of neat but I feel at that point you could buy a Cake imprint mat at Michaels/Hobby Lobby and some Green Stuff and get the same level of detail fidelity for a lot cheaper. MDF is good for a lot of stuff, but it seems a bit textureless for bases is all. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Oct 12, 2015 |
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Oct 12, 2015 05:27
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:I have some Secret Weapon "lava flow" bases, and I want to fill the cracks with a fresh, wet blood effect for a demonic, hellish look. I've never done water effects or painted blood before. Does anyone have any tips? Is it as simple as applying dyed resin to the base with a disposable dropper, or is resin too thick for that? Or do I paint the base red and add something glossy on top? Product recommendations very welcome! 
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Oct 12, 2015 20:29
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'm looking to make some sections of a sacbe (roadways made of rubble coated with limestone stucco) for some bases, and I noticed that Vallejo's stucco-texture paint is just gesso. Would regular artist-brand gesso work for that too? My general plan is to make a rubble base with bits of cork, fill in the cracks a bit with some dirt texture, and then have a few parts with the stucco still intact on it. I've also considered taking some artistic liberties and using crackle paint to make the "stucco" texture a little more interesting. Any thoughts? For stucco texture I usually use wood filler paste mixed with modelling sand.
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Oct 14, 2015 02:55
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Foolster41 posted:
There's also Brother Vinni but you might not want to give him money depending on your views of his non-Fallout minis.
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Oct 14, 2015 04:34
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Foolster41 posted:He does cheesecake/nude women doesn't he? One of those nude slave girls is also apparently based on the former Prime Minister of the Ukraine. Also the masturbating nun. Basically what I'm saying is that his nudie minis go a bit further than somewhere like Shadowforge and many people here have voiced opinions about not wanting to give him money based on this.
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Oct 14, 2015 20:56
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shoplifter posted:Anyone have a good *reliable* option for dropper bottles? I want to transfer all my old GW and Reaper paints but I read a few bad reviews of several options on Amazon. If you're in the US try SKS Bottle & Packaging. https://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/fin21a.html The half once ones are basically the same as Vallejo/Reaper bottles in my experience. Edit: and I'm pretty sure the Warstore ones are just these being sold at double price.
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Oct 15, 2015 02:26
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signalnoise posted:What if I want it to look right from any angle? With what you're trying to accomplish you should really try and go for an ideal viewing angle.
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Oct 19, 2015 00:39
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signalnoise posted:I think this is about as far as I can push this one before I start loving it up I'm going to give you some advice here and I don't want you to take it poorly because I mean well: You post in here a lot about all the different paints and modelling stuff you buy constantly but that stuff can't make up for practice. IMHO you need to step back from buying tons of various bottles of different technical paints and actually learn brush control, layering and other basic techniques. Learn to jump before you pole vault in other words.
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Nov 4, 2015 01:49
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Krome's are pretty good but I'm a big fan of the Paasche Talon when it comes to workhorse airbrushes. As far as cheapon brushes go if you just want to basecoat or whatever, I've had good experiences with Veda airbrushes, which are usually clones of the Paasche/Patriot.
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Nov 12, 2015 01:28
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