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How do I figure out what color (and brand?) of paint I should be getting to do some real basic work as I try to learn how to paint? I'll be learning on a bunch of epic minis, meaning I'm not too fussed about too many highlights or details (the minis are small enough I suppose getting even a little of that going will be plenty, and at least at first I want to get a bunch of the basics done to practice how this works. I can simple green to redo if I want to improve quality). If it goes well I may pick up a squad of regular tactical marines and think about getting into real 40K instead of just buying epic stuff off ebay for cheap. I think I'll start with Ultramarines because the army I bought already has a bunch of stuff done in their colors (and some in Imperial Fists, but I hear yellow is hard to learn on?). So that means I need: stuff for blue (armor), stuff for grey/silver (guns), stuff for white (shoulder pads/highlights), stuff for black (seems useful), maaaybe stuff for red? (assault marine jets? poo poo man I don't know) So, Blue, Silver, White, Black, (Red,) plus Primer. I'm planning on going to two places tomorrow: Michaels (for brushes, pallette, brush soap, hobby snips, x-acto), and my FLGS. Will Michaels carry the right kind of paint, and if they do, what colors should I get? I am sure the FLGS will be happy to tell me what colors of Citadel paint I need for Space Marines, but if I can keep it to one trip that'd be nice. Based on the OP, I understand that I should be watching for hobby (not craft) acrylics, ideally in the: Citadel, P3, or Vallejo lines. (But Vallejo is more for airbrushing, so not them?) Games Workshop seems to recommend getting 6 colors of blue to do Ultramarines properly, which seems like way more than I need right now. Can I get away with one of each of my basic colors for the moment, or do I really need 2-4 varieties of each color?
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Mar 29, 2015 05:28
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 13:43 |
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JoshTheStampede posted:You need more than one color of blue to paint properly but that doesn't mean you need to BUY more than one blue. You can easily add a touch of white to blue to make a highlight blue or a touch of black or purple to make a shade, etc. Over time that will cause all your blues to look the same but to start out you don't care. Thanks! I guess I will need to go by FLGS then.
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Mar 29, 2015 06:03
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I'm fine with having a more detailed resource in a linked blog or wiki, but it's really nice to have the very basic/beginner stuff in the OP. It's basically the only place I looked to get my shopping list for last weekend, and while I could probably have looked at linked resources, stuff that's actually in an OP jumps out at you far more than a link that says "check this out, I promise there's good stuff there."
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Apr 2, 2015 21:51
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What do you guys use to prep terrain? I finished a formation of epic space marines (6 bases, so 30 marines) this weekend, and painted a dreadnaught and a pair of vindicators, but now I need terrain for them to fight on. (Pictures eventually - I tried to take some this weekend but my light was wonky or I'm bad at cameras and everything came out dark and red. Maybe I need to use a tripod or something.) I realize that 6mm terrain is probably pretty different than 28mm terrain, but I think some of you might have some experience. Once I get some green, brown, and blue paint, (UGH I NEED ALL THE PAINT) I was thinking of doing three things, largely based off this guy's advice. One, getting some paintable caulk and prepping some roads and rivers. I think doing that on wax paper and setting up six-inch or foot-long sections of road and river seems really handy. If I steal some kitty litter from a friend I can probably make some fords too. Two, getting some foam core and making some hills. I imagine if I stack two sheets on top of each other that's a reasonable height hill for 6mm work? Then it's just exacto-ing them into the right shape. Three, I really like the forests that guy did. Again, it'll take two sheets of foamcore, but it looks like he uses toothpick segments to prop the second sheet up, and uses the second sheet as a tree canopy. Then he tops the canopy with a bunch of foliage foam fluff crap that's been hot-glued on, maybe paints stuff as necessary (I imagine mostly the trunks?), and calls it good. Have any of you tried doing that? Also, where do you get foliage fluff in the US? Do I have to spend exorbitant amounts of money at Michaels or is there something more reasonable?
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Apr 6, 2015 22:51
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Post 9-11 User posted:When using something like chalk, (plaster of paris?) you'll want to put several thick coats of spraypaint on it so that it doesn't immediately chip/scrape to bits. Caulk isn't a chalk, it's the goopy stuff that people use to seal windows, the edges of doors, along baseboards, etc. But it dries pretty well and can be painted. Thanks for the info on foam, though! Foamcore is two pieces of stiff paper with a foam inner lining (commonly used as posterboard), so if I'm cutting it into shape I'm sure I'll end up with exposed foam that would melt. I'll paint it with a light coat of watered-down elmers before I prime it, then.
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Apr 7, 2015 03:22
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Be careful with foamcore, it warps super easy. I'd recommend backing it with MDF or something similar. Hmm. Good to know. I haven't done any scratch building terrain before, so I have been winging it so far.
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Apr 7, 2015 06:37
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Because I am a dope and didn't realize there was a terrain megathread....I will fix that in a bit!
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Apr 7, 2015 14:54
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Do you dilute it with water, or just use it as-is?
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Apr 10, 2015 23:17
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When you all paint bases or terrain with glue to get a coat on or to add flock, are we talking watered down elmers white glue, or watered down elmers wood glue?
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Apr 11, 2015 02:12
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Gotcha, thanks.
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Apr 11, 2015 02:46
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Big Willy Style posted:Paint off of a palette so you dont have to worry knocking over your paints, you can use a wet palette if you are worried about wastage. Also I kinda hate dropper bottles because they are always getting clogged so my collection tends to lean to Coat D Arms, P3 and Citadel. Maybe it's because I've been doing epic minis and don't put much paint on the pallette, but I find that all the paint on my pallette is all dried out by the time I'm done with one or two things, and then I have to open the pot, grab more, basecoat one or two minis, open the pot, slather more paint out, etc etc. That's feasible for most paints, but for my washes it seems easier to leave them open. That's why my nuln oil and drakenhof nightshade are half empty. Each has spilled once when I've been trying to dip, wipe, paint, dip, wipe, paint.
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Apr 14, 2015 21:41
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Goddamn, that looks genius! EDIT: Some internet articles claim that you shouldn't use metallics on a wet pallette? Arcturas fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 14, 2015 |
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Apr 14, 2015 22:00
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That's a really pretty Gandalf! Also, anyone have advice on what colors I can use to make assault jump pack exhausts look good and fiery? It's on epic minis, so the scale is super tiny and I don't have the skills to do much highlighting. Most of the rest of the model has been base coat then wash because that's what I have the colors for and the painting skills for. If it helps they are ultra marines, so I did macragge blue for the base, drakenhof nightshade wash, then I did white on the shoulder pads tucked in front under the assault pack, a watered down gold on the chest detailing, then leadbelcher on the sword blades and pistol magazines, nuln oil wash on the gold and silver, then a mephiston red base plus carroburg crimson wash on the masks, other sword parts, and bolt pistols. (I did a drybrush of the citadel light blue-etherium?- before I did detail colors, but I am not confident that I can dry brush the detail colors without smearing the dry brush colors all over the model, which is a shame because I would like to pick out the edges on the sword, bolt pistol, and mask.) Basically I am happy with these guys from the front but want to make them look interesting from behind and the only way I can think to do that is to make their jump packs looks like they are doing something. Arcturas fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Apr 18, 2015 |
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Apr 18, 2015 15:09
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berzerkmonkey posted:The only way I've found to make jump packs look like they are doing anything is to add exhaust: http://directfire.blogspot.com/p/epic-orks.html (See the Stormboyz, third photo down). Otherwise, at that scale, you can't really do much else. Thanks. I don't think I'm going to start fussing with green stuff or modeling flames/exhaust just yet, so I think I'll leave them as is. They still look pretty good for a first go, even if I'm a bit clumsy and have some smudging in places. EDIT: Once I put together a lightbox I'll post some photos Arcturas fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Apr 18, 2015 |
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Apr 18, 2015 18:42
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That's a great looking division, Grey. The basing seems like a bit of a pain, though. Did you trim the static grass, or just mash it flat? I need to finish basing some 40k epic minis that currently have a brown sandy base that looks a lot like yours, and I think adding some grass would really pep them up. EDIT: Or is that the 6mm scale static grass? Arcturas fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Apr 30, 2015 |
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Apr 30, 2015 18:26
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That Alexander looks great! I wonder if you could get a purple or black wash into some of the small crevices that look like they were a touch missed, though. (I'm thinking of the three parallel diagonal vents on either side of the main part of the tank, just in front of the turret, in the first picture. Or in the second picture, the vents on the rear sides of the main body of the tank in the second picture - they're visible just under the red bits that you painted.) Given how nice all of the other vents/etails look, and how well you've washed and highlighted/drybrushed them, having some of those flat stands out a bit. Your weathering looks really great, though, both on the metal bits and on the edges of the turret and treads. How'd you do that? Just weathering pigments?
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May 11, 2015 22:23
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I'm wondering if it'd be worth doing some work on the treads, too, specifically painting the tread wheels black or brown, or if you want to leave those blue, maybe paint the treads themselves a brown or grey?
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May 11, 2015 23:04
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Question for you all about doing canopies. What colors should I snag to do a blue windshield canopy with a white highlight at the edge? I've seen a few tutorials that involve blue, white, and a few shades of lighter blue, but I get super overwhelmed staring at the rack of paints in my FLGS. I currently have a basic white, ultramarine blue, the ultramarine dry brush color, and some lovely craft store blues that I could theoretically mix. What 2-4 paints should I grab at the store next time I'm there? (If it helps, I am painting dropzone minis that have windshields-specifically the Wolverines) I should say that they mostly have citadel paints, though they have a poor selection of 10-15 p3 colors.
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Aug 21, 2015 18:53
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That glow is fantastic. What colors did you use?
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Nov 7, 2016 23:58
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Yeah I had the exact same experience with it, I tried several test bases with various thicknesses and such and none of them came out all nice and cracked like the GW ones I haven't used Agrellan Badlands, but I have used the thinner Martian Ironearth (the equivalent of Agrellan Earth, I think). For that, you lay it on three times as thick as you think is appropriate. Like, you're not painting it on. You're globbing it on like you're smearing boogers on a third-grade bully's desk. It really shrinks down as it dries. If you can texture the piles of it on the base, you're getting close. Then let it dry for a long long while.
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Dec 26, 2016 03:15
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I got some slight cracking with the thicker ones but yeah, still not amazing.
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Hey y'all, I have a new painter question for you. I've never worked with masking tape or lines before, but would appreciate some guidance. I've basecoated some UCM Frigates (prime white Krylon, then go over with the AP Crystal Blue rattlecan color primer). Now I've stuck some masking tape on (2mm Tamiya). I've heard my next step is to paint over the masking tape with the basecoat to stop bleeding under the edges (particularly because I'm worried about the tape not being perfectly stuck as I went over some of the corners and edges and valleys on this frigate). Is it better to do that with the rattle spray color, or a brush? I can do either, since I have the crystal blue rattle and I have the crystal blue in a dropper. I could also do a gloss or other coat on top afterwards - is that necessary? (One day I'll get an airbrush, just not anytime remotely soon.)
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Mar 12, 2017 03:23
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Hey LazyAngel, I was looking through old posts and am curious what paints you used on those super shiny scourge. Just a metallic base and some washes? Or did you use tinted metallics?
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Apr 23, 2017 23:37
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Southern Heel posted:I got given some Space Hulk Terminators, and I want to paint them like Deathwing (since when I started collecting in 2nd Edition, Dark Angels were so cool!). I also want to include my chapter colours. The old marines I've got from 2nd/3rd are here: I think shoulderpads for sure.
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May 14, 2017 15:51
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What's the best way to fix a dull coat that got a little cloudy? I was a bit aggressive in throwing a matte coat on (Valdspar Premium Finish Micromist Spray in Flat, if it matters) after my gloss coat had dried for a week, or maybe I sprayed from too close, and anyways I would like to fix it. Not a bi deal, but frustrating because the rest of the paint job I am pretty happy with.
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Jun 4, 2017 18:21
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Slimnoid posted:Hit it with a coat of gloss again. That usually does the trick. Just a light gloss coat? I can do that.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:29
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General Olloth posted:
What's the light blue color? I might steal that for an accent color on some of my spaceships.
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Jun 17, 2017 00:39
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That's awesome. How bright is it if you turn on a blacklight in addition to normal light?
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Jun 25, 2017 02:25
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Hey, so I'd like to transition a bunch of GW paints to dropper bottles, and they're a little thick to really get all of the paint out on each transfer. What should I be mixing in to make them more liquid without diluting them too much (so that I still get great coverage on base coats etc)? Lahmian medium? Boring old water? Comedy option is Vallejo airbrush flow improver?
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Jul 7, 2017 00:34
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Is there any specific matte medium in the Vallejo range that would work?
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Jul 7, 2017 15:03
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bonds0097 posted:I would just use Vallejo Thinner Medium. Thanks! It's frustrating how GW can't be bothered to use normal names for stuff and, as a result, I have no idea what to look for when I get other companies' products.
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Jul 7, 2017 16:09
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My local university surplus store has a vortex mixer for $10 if I can figure out how to handle a 240v plug in my American 110v house. Is that easy enough to get an adapter for? (The backs says 240v and the plug is a T shaped set of three prongs-two flat horizontal and one flat vertical set below and centered between the other two.)
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Jul 21, 2017 19:17
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Thanks all. Maybe I'll swing back on Tuesday to get pictures of all angles of the mixer. If I can get an adapter for less than $20, getting a working vortex mixer setup for $30 would be awesome.
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Jul 21, 2017 23:06
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So I have a question that's not quite miniatures painting, but very adjacent. I want a mini for our spelljammer campaign so that I can prime & paint it up and feel very fancy for having my character on the tabletop, but I'm having a hard time finding something suitable. My character is a Giff sailor (artificer) who uses a pistol, has a parrot on his shoulder, and runs around shirtless with tattoos. Basically trying to channel Maui from Moana vibes, except with pudge (con) instead of strength, and a hippo instead of Dwayne Johnson. My friend has a filament & a resin printer, so I can have a custom mini printed if I can find one I like, and if I find the right base mini I can swap out guns/swords to get that detail right. There are a fair number of Giff minis out there, but none that feel quite right - they're almost all clothed victorian english/steampunk minis & designs. Anyone have advice on where to find what I'm looking for? e: also happy to be referred to a different thread if there's somewhere else I should post.
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Sep 28, 2022 21:54
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w00tmonger posted:Heroforge. Epic miniatures has a shirtless hippo warrior in myminifactory if your down to kitbash Thanks Electric Hobo, w00tmonger, and Toebone, I hadn't heard of heroforge before. We're fine with kitbashing, and I thought I'd browsed myminifactory but I'll take another look.
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Sep 29, 2022 04:04
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w00tmonger posted:I love speed paint, but they need to make a v2 without the reactivation issues I love the speed paints too, but the reactivation is a pain. It's mostly an issue with the red, I feel like? At least from the intro box of colors.
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Oct 8, 2022 21:50
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Paint thinning question for you all. I’ve normally spray primed my minis and then painted using thinned GW, Vallejo, or Army Painter paints, seems pretty standard. (Mostly matte medium to thin, I wasn’t very good at thinning with water. Also I’ve painted like twenty or thirty minis over the last five years, so I still consider myself a novice.) I have found priming to be one of the big barriers to entry on painting, (I sit down to paint and none of my models are primed and it’s dark out or rainy or whatever and then I can’t find my gloves or something goes wrong and then it’s been six months) so I picked up a bottle of Vallejo white surface primer, which I assume I can paint on. So my question is, do you thin primer as well? I don’t want to obscure details so I’d assume so, but it also feels weird to thin a primer. If so, just water?
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Apr 7, 2023 05:43
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Finally picked up the brush again to paint an IG Vet Guard kill team. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out for not having done much painting for at least six months, and for churning them out over a single weekend. Basic stuff, prime white, a layer of speedpaint on anything colored, a layer of metallic followed by a dark wash and then a lighter metallic highlight on most of the metals. But I'm amazed by how much of a difference doing a base & adding some tufts of grass made. Also question for you all about speed paints/contrast paints. I'm happy with how much motion & drama I got out of some of the speedpaints, but I feel like I got the green and much of the purple a little too heavy. Should I be slowing down and using a less-saturated brush and smaller application? If so, does the paint still flow well enough to get the wash & highlight effect that's part of the speed paints?
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Apr 19, 2023 17:52
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I love seeing awesome dropzone stuff next to sweet dropzone terrain. It gives it such a sense of scale.
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May 5, 2023 18:50
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That 10mm hero is so clean, dang!
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May 26, 2023 02:25
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 13:43 |
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That's some impressive 6mm work! I love the weathering details.
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Jun 1, 2023 20:44
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