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Virtual Russian posted:when I complain people say I'm shilling for GW or other big companies. if you're unhappy with being accused of shilling for big companies, i recommend at least waiting one post before shilling for big companies
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Jul 16, 2023 16:54
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Geisladisk posted:His post isn't even remotely doing that and you are being a dick. that second paragraph is talking about how companies operate and saying it's just how things are, that having credits being scrubbed for no reason is just all anyone should expect. artists go into this "willingly". that's basic apologia. gently caress that, tbh. even games workshop wasn't this bad until very recently. artists take the work that is available under the terms that are available until they get a big enough name to demand better terms, and oh look here's GW scrubbing their names to prevent that. that's scummy behavior befitting a faceless corporation people mostly just tolerate. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 17:01
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Virtual Russian posted:Honestly dude? really? the difference here is in this analogy you are being denied the profit from your painting, rather than the corporate middleman who is squeezing both you and the people buying your work dry. GW isn't paying artists residuals or profit share, and they're not raising anyone's wages because a mini or book sells well.
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Jul 16, 2023 17:07
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rantmo posted:What Virtual Russian is talking about feels fundamentally the same as why the WGA and SAG-AFTRA are on strike. in this analogy, GW is the AMPTP. i can't speak to other areas, but recasters don't generally go after small artists' work with miniatures in particular because the economy of scale isn't there. there are a fair amount of grey-market sales of professionally-produced pirate copies of small producers' miniatures from china, but it's largely with miniatures originally produced in china, selling binned writeoffs or simply continuing to run molds illicitly. likewise, you see 3D print piracy of even cult releases using illicit scans or simply selling STL prints without paying the creator, but there's a hard cap on how large such an operation can be, both from demand and the limitations of this kind of manufacturing. both of these have little to do with recasting and buying from recasters doesn't "support" either business model. this isn't generalizable to every single small-manufacturer semi-pro craft. anything that is more similar to print-on-demand is clonable in a scaling, profitable way, as is anything that can reasonably be marketed as the manufacturer's own design. but miniature recasts are not anything like those, so trotting out the same ol' piracy arguments like there's some big operation undercutting even the bigger enthusiast projects like kromlech is silly. it's also hilarious to see "think of the artists!" alongside "yeah artists get exploited by large publishers, that's life" side-by-side in the same post. that's just icing on this layer cake of terrible arguments in defense of games workshop. Mr Teatime posted:I think it’s slightly bizarre for people to leap in when an artist explains their direct experience with how the recasting industry fucks over artists and go “nuh uh”. Like I’ve said I’ve purchased recasts of out of production kits but I’m not going to spin that as me being some plucky Robin Hood type sticking it to the man, if you buy recasts at least be intellectually honest enough to admit to yourself that you just like cheap poo poo and it's not "plucky Robin Hood sticking it to the man" so much as GW constantly taking steps to remind everyone that they just don't give a poo poo. if they're that focused on squeezing out every dime for the bottom line, then clearly they have that in hand and don't need any help. arguments appealing to downtrodden artists feel especially silly applied to GW in particular. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jul 16, 2023 |
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Jul 16, 2023 18:12
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to the rather exploitative industry it comes from.
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Virtual Russian posted:I suspect your issue might be with capitalism. Clawing back credits isn't a problem with capitalism in general. It isn't even a profit-maximizing move, since they've even re-edited old work to remove credits, when just leaving it alone would have been free. It's a bonehead move chasing imagined profits at best, and pure spite at worst. In any event, there is no need to cheerlead every single lovely thing a corporation does because, well, that's capitalism!
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Jul 16, 2023 21:52
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Lumpy posted:Use oil washes. They are your friend. Unless you try to drink them. Then they are your mortal enemy. please do not drink any paint
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Jul 17, 2023 17:26
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Jonny Nox posted:Especially do not drink very old Vallejo reds from the model color line. or oranges or yellows too. in general you should always have a proper mask for airbrushing regardless of the paint, but anything that said "DO NOT AIRBRUSH" is probably a heavy metal paint
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Jul 17, 2023 17:56
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Spanish Manlove posted:Why use the old paints instead of modern ones that cover well and have colors that are just as vibrant if not more vibrant? depends on how you feel about the delicious taste of cadmium
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Jul 17, 2023 18:56
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Jonny Nox posted:It’s funny, the comment was meant as a joke, I didn’t mean to kick off a discussion it's good for people to know!
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Jul 18, 2023 02:39
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EdsTeioh posted:Anyone know what AK Odorless Thinner actually is? IE, is there a non hobby branded product I get so I'm not paying $7 for 4 ounces of it? It's actual turpentine with a bunch of the volatile aromatic compounds removed. You can buy it in bulk branded as Turpenoid.
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Jul 21, 2023 20:58
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Virtual Russian posted:Going to second this, once you get turpenoid you will never go back to traditional solvents. Do you mean Turpenoid in particular or just odorless solvents in general? Do you prefer it over the odorless petroleum distillates (odorless mineral/white spirits, odorless turpentine substitute - eg Gamsol or Mona Lisa) and citrus-based solvents? I haven't used oils myself in many years, so I don't know from experience.
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Jul 21, 2023 22:39
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Yeast posted:Been using the new(ish) water activated oils from Windsor newton. It’s cool that you can do a water cleanup if you want, or continue to use solvents to work it. wow, those are actually oils, not just acrylics with retardant. that's incredible stuff!
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Jul 22, 2023 04:18
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Lumpy posted:Is there anywhere that isn't run by an idiot and increasingly infested with assholes? on the internet? no.
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Jul 24, 2023 17:53
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Bachtere posted:Alrighty, I am selling the bulk of my miniature collection, and I wanted to make sure as many eyes saw the auctions on eBay as possible, because there are some bargains to be had and I want them to find a good home (that is not my home). seems like it might be a good idea to post in sa-mart, too
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Jul 26, 2023 02:53
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Disproportionation posted:Question: I'm looking for a way to tint metallic armour without just making it outright a metallic colour. Like, I'm looking for a way to make silver armour slightly purplish, but not outright purple, if that makes sense, maybe a metallic lilac or something like that. Is there anything anyone could recommend for that? I have some purple ink that I could try, but I don't know if I should opt for a pale contrast paint or something (probably dreadful visage or magos purple) considering that I probably wouldn't need use it for anything else. metallic over a tinted base color instead of the usual pure black, add purple to your metallic paint, paint over it with a speedpaint, use a purple wash. all of these can work. if it's too purple you should add less purple pigment.
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Jul 30, 2023 00:59
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Drunkboxer posted:I’ve only recently started painting minis and I’ve been priming with a matte white Krylon rattle can because that’s what I had. Is there some rule of thumb about when you want to prime with black vs white vs gray? I’ve only been painting age of sail ships and I’ve been liking the way the colors are coming out with the white undercoat, is there something about painting little dudes that makes a darker primer more desirable? Priming in black allows you to not paint (or paint in a translucent way) an area to leave shadow, and most of the minis have sharply-defined small contours that benefit from being emphasized with shadows. The fact that this darkens or muddies color is usually a feature rather than a bug. It also covers mistakes, because if you missed a spot, it's probably a spot that should be in shadow. It's less effective the larger the mini gets. On those you'll usually want more stages of shadow, placed more deliberately. Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jul 31, 2023 |
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Jul 31, 2023 21:20
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EdsTeioh posted:Do any of the Vallejo basing pastes match up reasonably well with either of the Agrellan texture paints? I've got like close to 2k points based with that stuff and don't want to keep buying it but also don't want to have newer guys have significantly different looking bases. Cracking doesn't matter if that's a factor. vallejo brown earth paste is a pretty close color match. if the color is still unacceptably dissimilar, you can paint it with matching regular paints. it looks like VMC brown sand or citadel balor brown are good matches.
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Aug 9, 2023 01:10
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also some people just want a dingy, muddy-colored look. vibrant isn't always the goal.
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Aug 9, 2023 09:21
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Spanish Manlove posted:[people who want muddy colors] are boring i will keep my filthy awful mutant gremlins and you can keep your incorrect opinions. (also ofc models look better with contrast to draw the eye in interesting ways.) EdsTeioh posted:Is "Brown Earth Paste" the same as "Brown Earth Gel?" yeah same thing. vallejo 26219. i prob shouldn't have capitalized paste. there's a brown mud in the same line with a darker, slightly reddish hue and a different texture. not that.
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Aug 9, 2023 23:07
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Shoehead posted:So I just stripped my test Hearthkin again and repainted him quickly now that I know what I wanted, finished him up and then when I went to glue him together finally realised that this isn't like the old 3E spacemarines where all the arms fit together with each other. Oops. You can make the arms work on any body if you're willing to shave/shim joints and possibly cover some gaps with epoxy putty.
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Aug 10, 2023 15:09
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Chill la Chill posted:What are good gap fillers that can be sanded? I need the surface to be smooth because it's armor plates on vehicles. I've tried making a batch of slurry but that still seems to be soft and greenstuff just comes off in chunks if I try to sand it. The stuff for larger gaps is also the stuff for sanding. You want something dense, hard, inflexible, and ideally nontoxic. A few more good options in addition to Milliput and those two: Apoxie Sculpt is synthetic clay and also nice. it's similar to Milliput, and while it's not as popular, it may be easier to find if you're US or NA based. (The manufacturer is American.) i've never tried mixing it with green stuff but otherwise it's almost exactly like Milliput. It has a clay-like texture you can mold with your hands or water- or oil-lubricated tools, it's tacky for an hour, resistant but sculptable for an hour, dries to sandable/self-supporting hardness, with a plastic-like finish if smooth. The price is about comparable to Milliput as well. UV resin. UV resin has a bunch of limitations that you'd need to work around but it lets you sculpt whatever you want and remains shapeable until you hit it with the UV light to harden it completely solid. There's a ton of neat stuff you can do with them because they don't need to hold up their own weight while semi-solid to dry. However, they're always transparent (or else they wouldn't solidify!) and they can only be dried in places where light can reach. Additionally, they're almost always toxic, so you want to use gloves and wet-sand them to control and dispose of the dust. Most household filler putties dry too fast, shrink, or can't be handled too well. The only one I've ever seen anyone have any success with is Bondo, but you need gloves to handle that and it stinks to high heaven when drying. However, it's very cheap compared to all of the things aimed at hobbyists or sculptors. It still works well, too: it doesn't shrink, takes texture like a sculptor's putty, and it's very hard and strong once dried.
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Aug 11, 2023 19:12
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Southern Heel posted:Why can’t miniature company simply name their paints the actual colour or pigment? I saw that Dana Howl had a preproduction set of the speed paints V2 and they had simple names like warm yellow, cool blue - and now they have to be ridiculous: testicle pink, dog sick yellow, etc. vallejo model color has basic, straightforward names, except for the handful that are specific color matches to historical colors (like "german uniform"). SuperKlaus posted:How might I texture a greenstuff straw hat to look like it's woven of straw? I'm interested in ideas usable after the greenstuff has set as well as before - I could craft a new hat now that I'm learning to sculpt but I'd rather not. Some kind of texture paint? you'd add the texture at the sculpting stage. a straw hat has tightly-spaced concentric circle weaving lines, with straight or diagonal hatches between them that may be so fine they don't show up at this scale.
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Aug 14, 2023 19:29
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Mr Teatime posted:Regarding Vallejo varnishes, what exactly is the practical difference between their regular range of Matt/satin/gloss and their range of polyurethane varnishes? Really not clear on how they vary. they are different kinds of paint. matte/satin/gloss are acrylic primer, just water-soluable paint but clear. polyeurethane is what you use to paint a car or a deck. the polyeurethane varnish is mainly aimed at people building model cars or looking for hard-wearing varnish you could use on an RC vehicle or drone.
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Aug 14, 2023 23:31
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Paragon8 posted:vallejo polyurethanes are water based "acrylic polyurethanes" and are intended for general use, I think there is a premium one that is specifically intended for RC cars though. You're probably painting a deck with an oil based poly coat. i definitely remember how to spell polyurethane rather than looking like an idiot. anyhow acrylic polyurethane and water-based polyurethane are basically synonyms and yes what vallejo is selling is more likely what you'd use on an indoor floor than a deck. POINT BEING: vallejo premium color, their entire polyurethane line, is massive overkill for 28mm models. most of the advantages of polyurethane are not material to wargame models, which mainly need to be protected from soft friction wear, because any sort of real wear or shock will break or destroy them anyway. so, buying PU paint for models, you're paying money for little benefit. stick to acrylic varnish/medium unless it's for dual-use.
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Aug 15, 2023 11:55
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you can, however, use vallejo premium color to airbrush a wizard miniature then airbrush a wizard onto the side of a panel van
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Aug 15, 2023 12:02
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i just bought a bunch of glass shot and shake the bottles, idk why you'd make it more complicated
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Aug 18, 2023 06:25
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Geisladisk posted:Abaddon done. Not sure about the decal on the cloak though. decals on textiles really need weathering to look good, and weather differently from paint on a hard surface. is it screened or dyed? this is the most like paint. screened designs generally fade significantly faster than anything else, showing underlying color in a patchy way. edges similarly become more diffuse. sponging the base color works really well to weather a screened design, although the whole thing also starts to show through the base color too. filth and shadows should just cross straight over its boundaries. go-to reference material is old, vintage, or distressed t-shirts. is the design woven? the edges should be slightly soft, as the weave gets uneven through wear. the logo will absorb filth and stains differently, producing a color that's a mix of the stain and the dye in each area of different dye. translucent washes can be a real crapshoot on this; sometimes you just need to paint overlapping stains different colors. if the clothing is threadbare, there are some additional concerns here but it doesn't look like that's what you're doing. flags are usually woven and there's lots of reference for those, although they tend to get threadbare too. is the logo sewn onto the cape, like a patch? in that case it's a separate piece of cloth. it folds with the cape but slightly separately or offset, and may have a raised edge and/or visible lines of attaching stitches. if the cape is torn, it can separate near the tear, and may have its own tear. this is the main way to put a logo on leather. reference material is harder to find for this but look at old, filthy safety clothing, like hi-viz suits or firefighter gear, or well-worn bikers' vests and the patches. is the logo embroidered? it should have a different surface texture, slightly uneven color due to its texture, and orderly but not perfectly straight edges. it's gonna fold differently and fray near a tear, and may form creases and fray along folds. fraying can give it uneven edges or surfaces, and embroidery can shred or abrade away without the cloth being pierced. it's probably more useful to look at the ways jeans or lace fray for reference on damaged embroidery. there are other ways of adding designs to clothing, but none of them would be used to attach a single dominant logo. it could be interesting to have, say, chaos-logo-print cloth but you wouldn't use decals for that.
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Aug 19, 2023 12:12
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the model looks incredible btw, just offering advice on how designs weather on cloth.
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Aug 19, 2023 12:13
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Spanish Manlove posted:How the hell do people have the sanity for horde armies? i respectfully submit everyone anywhere who posts about 40K as your answer
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Aug 21, 2023 23:50
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Lamuella posted:Never been a space marine person but I think these turned out okay. VMC royal purple was a good rear end choice, looking good
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Aug 26, 2023 15:06
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Siivola posted:I was disappointed when I tried to shade the pink skin undercoat with AP Strong Tone. It probably has some dark bluish pigment in it because yellow made it dark green. oh nooooooo strong tone is motor oil. it's amazing for industrial or construction filth but keep it far away from anything organic that isn't, like, a beetle or orc. if you want the Good poo poo in AP for warm organic washes, it's AP Soft Tone.
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Aug 27, 2023 17:54
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rantmo posted:All the priming I've been doing has left some black primer stuck to the upper part of my airbrush cup, which I've had a hard time getting off, I let it soak for a little while in Simple Green and then gave it a scrub with a toothbrush but it's just really on there. Is that something I'm going to need to sit down and take care of or is it not really much of a deal? high-concentration isopropyl alcohol incredible
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Aug 30, 2023 02:38
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BizarroAzrael posted:I wonder if I'm the first person on earth to strip a Leviathan mini? no, lots of people strip and restrip while testing paint schemes.
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Sep 2, 2023 05:09
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Geisladisk posted:Hello, do you have a moment to talk about Tzeentch? he just needs a hug
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Sep 4, 2023 23:39
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Majkol posted:Are they supposed to be roots from when they were in the ground? fwiw yeah, thematically they go with a villain in cursed city who buried his victims alive in a magic garden
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Sep 8, 2023 10:52
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Mr Teatime posted:Am I being incredibly dense or is macragge blue significantly darker than the blue depicted in gws photos of their modern ultramarine range? personally i use Vallejo Mecha Blue 69.019 and then just beat the poo poo out of it washes and weathering, but my main application for this is dead ultramarines
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Sep 12, 2023 04:59
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GreenBuckanneer posted:What would everyone's choices for these hex codes be for colors as close to, but with contrast paint? Here is a guide with every speedpaint on the market (and some you can't get any more).
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Sep 14, 2023 01:11
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a pale ghost posted:Do airbrushes require ventilation? I'm trying to find a way to prime models during Winter in the northeast. yeah. you should be able to find a hood/shroud setup that works, though.
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Sep 16, 2023 01:16
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Lumpy posted:Is this really required if one only ever sprays acrylics? depends on how you feel about emphysema
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Sep 16, 2023 23:37
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NinjaDebugger posted:It should go without saying but don't loving airbrush heavy metals like cadmium without a full protective setup. or ever. this is not calling out NDB, i just do not want anyone to innovate new goony ways of causing yourself brain damage. cadmium or cobalt or any other traditional toxic pigment does not go in the airbrush. azo dyes are fine, you do not care about your colors fading in 2063. this is never a thing you need to worry about with craft paints or hobby paints that are not 20 years old though
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Sep 17, 2023 02:25
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