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Finished up some stuff! Reaper Bones 4 half-ogre fighter:  Reaper Bones 4 cyclops:   Kings of War Necromancer on mount:     KoW Revenant King on mount:      And a collection of what I painted in April: 
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May 8, 2020 23:00
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Yeast posted:Agree, the cyclops’ skin is just wonderful The secret is matte medium! I basically use that the same way people use glaze medium, and do multiple thin coats going from light to dark and then highlighting it back up with the first and second colors I used. Matte medium also works very well for thinning washes. I do that to get the red and purple hues in on the skin tones in the recesses. I tried using glaze medium in the past and it didn't really gel with me, but matte medium? Swear by the stuff.
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May 9, 2020 01:11
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Werix posted:Although I'm still working on finishing all my infantry level models like Rubric marines, exalted sorcerers, and scrab occult termies, I took advantage of the GW webstore opening back up to order a vindicator and Hellbrute to start to fill out some of my kill team turned regular 40k army. I'm also going to use the hellbrute to do my first experimenting with magnetizing a model so I can swap out arms and weapons. Anyway, I've not painted anything as big as a hellbrute or vindicator, is it really much different than painting minis? I'd think it would be easier given the model isn't as small, but are there any tips or tricks I should know before I go into painting them, even it if won't be for like another month or more? I assume assemble, prime, paint, and finish are all about the same? In past experiences, you don't need to go too highlight-crazy with larger models. You're looking more for good blends than anything else. You also want to use as much airbrushing or rattlecan as you can get away with, as it'll significantly speed up the painting process, especially for vehicles. On the plus side, with as big a surface are as you'll be working with, it's a great time to experiment with weathering effects. Dirt, chipped paint, blood splatters, random runes and markers--you got a large painting surface with things like a vindicator, so don't be afraid to get inventive.
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May 12, 2020 20:37
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I finished some kobolds!    A nice little distraction from all the larger models I've been working on.
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May 19, 2020 19:11
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:freehanding hazard stripes: harrowing While someone did suggest masking (the best choice imo, especially for aibrushing) consider also Micron pens. You can easily draw a line over the yellow with them and then fill in the stripe with black paint. If you're having trouble doing straight lines, use a piece of card to help guide you. Micron pens in general are a really useful tool to have on hand. Makes doing writing on parchment a breeze.
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May 20, 2020 17:54
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Phi230 posted:But isn't the way to layer you start dark and layer up? That's one way to do it, yes, and it's how a lot of beginners learn to paint. And in most cases it works perfectly fine. But another way to do it is, rather than dark to light, you go from light to dark. This requires thinning paints down considerably and glazing them over light colors, going progressively darker with each new glaze. It's a tricky thing to learn and I'm not sure why Reaper is suggesting it there, but it's an especially good way to get smooth skin tones and better blends. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it for a beginner, though. In this case, lay down the base color and get into the recesses with a slightly thinned-down shadow, then go to a highlight. Think of it like using a wash, if you've used those before--it's the same principle. A wet pallet helps greatly, but you can use a dry pallet in a pinch.
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May 22, 2020 19:37
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Purple Power and Dawn Power Dissolver also do a good job, though the latter is hard to come by nowadays. Isopropyl Alcohol of at least 90% will apparently strip paint off without issue.
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May 24, 2020 04:04
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Painted some things!    All Reaper stuff I'd had on my unpainted/half-painted shelf for a while and which I finally decided to finish.
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May 26, 2020 20:29
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Torquemada posted:I spend a lot of time looking at this guy https://instagram.com/flameonminiatures?igshid=18v0whvlo5itt That's how I've seen it done, yeah. This guy shows it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFJCNr0CxpI
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May 26, 2020 23:12
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Finished some translucent spookies! Translucent models have certain problems to work with. You can't prime them for obvious reasons, and matte varnish will ruin the shine. So you end up having to paint the matte varnish on after you do a gloss varnish, and keep the translucent parts glossy.  Translucent purple, painted directly on top. Starting with black is the easiest way to block in your colors when doing translucent models, as it's the easiest to see through and also covers the most. Everything else just goes on top of the black.  Simple black airbrushing on the top and sides, no additional colors. Translucent smoke doesn't really need much else to make it look good.  And everything I painted in May!
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May 30, 2020 00:07
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R0ckfish posted:Somewhat out of chronological order, but I painted up some plague marines that got featured in a Goonhammer HTPE! Your photo setup is producing great results here. What do you use?
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May 30, 2020 17:57
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Hixson posted:Finally finished this thing Your Night Lords continue to impress. Also I'm glad you didn't go with the cheap and easy option of adding detail by putting flayed skin or random chaos scribbles. Having a clean vehicle like that, with the panel lining and lightning bolts, really gives it this kind of crisp look to it.
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Jun 8, 2020 16:22
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w00tmonger posted:Is there a good brain dead recipe for cranking out worn/rusty swords for 150 skeletons? The quickest way is what you already suggested, though I'd go nuln > agrax > drybrush. This is if you're going for quick and easy. If you want to add more of a rusty look, Typhus Corrosion in the recesses adds some texture, and then stipple on some Ryza Rust for an orange look. This tutorial uses mostly GW paints to get the rusty effect and is quick and simple, and already pairs off with your current color scheme. This one is more involved, but gets a more realistic effect and is a bit more eye-catching--I'd relegate that to more important models and not the 150 skeletons you're going to grind through, unless you're masochistic. Given the color scheme you've got going, adding some orange rust to that blue-green would pair well and make them pop.
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Jun 8, 2020 18:06
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w00tmonger posted:havent looked into the technicals too much, but this has me pretty motivated. I held off on the technicals for a long time but having used them somewhat recently they're great. Like washes, they're talent in a can, and judicious use of them can take a bog-standard metallic into something really great. If you find that Ryza as the last step is too bright, maybe wash it with Agrax to blend everything together. If that's the case then hold off on doing Agrax early and use it as a finishing touch, since you don't want to go through washes that quickly.
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Jun 8, 2020 18:24
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Plain ol' Gorilla Glue is a poor choice for miniature work on account of it expanding. Gorilla Super Glue on the other hand, has been my go-to for years and is what I use for pretty much any non-plastic model. It doesn't take much to glue stuff together and dries fairly quick, and can be found in most hardware stores.
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Jun 9, 2020 14:54
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Booyah- posted:I haven't had any citadel paints totally dry up in the pot, but I do notice some of them have thickened over time, as in they no wonder flow around inside the pot. Is adding a drop of distilled water back into the pot and shaking it well with a bean inside something that people do? Water or matte medium will work. I assume you meant to type bead, as I don't think a bean would do so well inside paint, but you probably should just put a bead in every pot of opened paint you have.
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Jun 12, 2020 21:21
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Winklebottom posted:Eh, thought it might look a bit same-y/drab otherwise, but perhaps you’re right Red for base troops, white for officers/special weapons to better identify and differentiate on the tabletop. Being able to tell at a glance what a model is can't be overstated when you've got a couple dozen of them wandering around.
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Jun 15, 2020 16:53
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I picked this one up a while back and it works well. You can adjust the light settings and brightness, where the ones linked earlier don't.
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Jun 22, 2020 02:34
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djfooboo posted:I’m about to jump back into minis painting. Tell me about affordable primer options that aren’t GW. Krylon is most people's go-to for rattlecan primer. It's affordable and found in just about every hardware store, and is one of the safe options for Reaper Bones models. For airbrush or brush-on, Vallejo and Badger's Stynylrez brand work great. If you live in a place with high humidity, look into gesso; it's a brush-on that shrinks a little and isn't affected by humidity.
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Jun 22, 2020 17:10
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Spanish Manlove posted:Does humidity affect vallejo brush on primer? Not that I'm aware of. It might take longer to dry but it doesn't mess with the finish any. It's rattlecans you have to watch out for. High humidity can mess up spray primer and create little fuzzies on the surface.
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Jun 22, 2020 18:34
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re: white ink for airbrushing, I've been having issues with mine for a while. The first few times I sprayed it through an airbrush it went on fine, but now it's not sticking--and by that I mean it's sinking into the recesses and failing to adhere to more raised surfaces. For the life of me I can't figure out why. I haven't changed anything with my set-up or PSI or anything, and the bottle is only 3-4 months old.
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Jul 26, 2020 21:11
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Red Rox posted:I bought my son Imperial Assault for his birthday and I was thinking it would be fun to get back into painting. The models are plastic, and Darth Vader’s light saber is a bit...droopy. I tried bending it a little but eventually it just bends back to being a sad banana. Any tips for how to fix it? Dip the light saber in hot, near-boiling water for a few seconds. This will soften the plastic and you can then reshape it. Before it cools, dunk it in ice water; the temperature shock will set the plastic in place. This works for pretty much all types of board game plastic and other softer plastics.
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Jul 27, 2020 21:43
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You can also make your own texture paint by combining sand, paint, and white glue, with a little bit of water. You'll want to use craft paint with this, and to mix it all in a container with a tight seal, but I've been doing that for years and it works just fine.
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Aug 10, 2020 20:03
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Nebalebadingdong posted:so i'm painting these tiny wood elves from Forest Dragon. (the prints are from Printing in Detail, and are extremely excellent) 1. The paint scheme rules. Keep it, all of it, and please show more. 2. While not wrong, I think the way you've painted them works. At a distance people will be able to make out colors and details, and at that scale its the most important thing to keep in mind. 3. I mean, I like the way it looks, but I get'cha. Maybe some flock over it instead of sculpting?
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Aug 23, 2020 17:04
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I finished a thing. Full album, with WIPs near the end.
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Sep 13, 2020 23:33
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I said come in! posted:My main complaint is paint scraps off very easily with metal, and I could use tips and help with this, cause I must be doing something wrong and just not understanding what. Gloss varnish as a protective coat. It'll form a kind of armor around the paint job and make it very resilient to paint chipping. It'll make it shiny though, so you'll want to hit it with a coat or two of matte varnish afterwards.
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Nov 28, 2020 03:46
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 11:51 |
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Communist Walrus posted:What's the reasoning behind gloss + matte instead of just matte? Gloss is a lot tougher a varnish than matte. This isn't to say matte isn't protective (it is!), and if your models are in a cabinet 95% of the time you could probably just stop with that. But if they are being handled/transported regularly, gloss is something you want to consider first--especially for metal models.
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Nov 28, 2020 04:05
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