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BULBASAUR posted:I like the generic dick blick brand- I use them for drybrushing, alcohol paints, and oils. They last a long time and are cheap. I've always liked the Utrecht generics. Apparently they were acquired by Dick Blick though, and there was some talk of the stores offering selections from both of their lines if i recall. This was for studio classes rather than miniatures, but a good brush is a good brush.
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Mar 18, 2015 13:26
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So are those squadron seam-scrapers any use? They're only like $10 with prime shipping and I'm debating picking one up. I figure you guys would be the people to ask about mold line removal.
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Mar 21, 2015 21:05
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The tiny claws on the front hands should also probably be painted. Also the green claws just kinda look a bit strange? Like it's a really organic shape but the green makes them look artificial. I can't really offer advice on how to address that but might be worth considering.
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Mar 27, 2015 06:53
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Okay how big are these miniatures. Like, could you put one next to a penny or a quarter or something for a size comparison?
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Mar 31, 2015 05:56
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Hollismason posted:Really great tutorial on glowing green slime bases that was on Dakkadakka, but he has his own site. I really want to buy some miniatures now.
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Apr 1, 2015 22:08
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Moola posted:as long as they not GW Well the plan is to eventually print some of my own so probably not. I've not been able to find nearly enough sad lonely robot models;.
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Apr 1, 2015 23:08
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I knew about Future but Windex too? An extremely expensive hobby is sounding marginally less expensive by the minute.
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Apr 3, 2015 06:00
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The Sex Cannon posted:Awesome tank. Your tanks are some of my favorite things in this thread. The metallics are wonderful. everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 09:00 on Apr 27, 2015 |
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Apr 27, 2015 08:56
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I know miniature painting is a lot different from the painting you might do for scale modelling, due to differences in size and viewing distance. I'm curious about potentially applying some of the techniques, such as zenithal priming, to scale models and gundam kits. Does zenithal priming, for instance, help still when the kits are at a larger scale?
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May 30, 2015 22:11
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Sauer posted:Zenithal is frequently used on armor and military figurines. Though scale modellers would probably call it "pre-shading". Many aircraft modellers also pre-shade panel lines, joints between control surfaces the inside of intakes and so on. I always thought preshading was a bit different than zenithal shading, being more of a quick underlying layer of shading and highlights rather than the top-down primer spray of zenithal priming.
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May 30, 2015 23:53
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big_g posted:I can give some examples if it's useful. This is incredibly helpful! I've never really liked how the pre-shading turns out on robots and such, which is mainly what I'm doing, but modulation looks like a really fun technique.
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May 31, 2015 20:40
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PyroDwarf posted:After a simple green soak, I'm already much happier with how he is coming along. Go with the spooky eyes. The blank eyes look really cool in this case so I think that'd make it look even better.
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Jun 19, 2015 14:57
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Tuxedo Jack posted:Crosspostin' my new freeblade. Needs more flowers.
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Jun 24, 2015 19:57
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Ofaloaf posted:I did a bit of Warhammer Fantasy stuff a decade ago, and the recent Age of Sigmar talk has made me want to dust them off and give them a go with the Kings of War rules. A wet Q-tip will work wonders, I've found.
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Jul 9, 2015 05:41
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Not actually mini related, but you all seem to have the most experience with various varnishes and protective glosses. I'm hoping to get a silver paint pen signature or a white marker pen signature on a piece of heavily handled electronics. Am I right that if I want it to be protected, a layer of future is probably the best way to go? I'm willing to spend more if there's a more durable product. I really just want to varnish the signature itself so anything I can apply precisely is a plus.
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Jul 15, 2015 22:30
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From what I've seen on the various Gundam threads/subreddits/forums, they're really only used for the panel lining and the occasional "fill in indentation yellow." Really for anything more complicated than that people tend to use a brush, half the time just cutting open the now useless markers and using the paint because it matches nicely to the plastic.
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Aug 3, 2015 07:30
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Do they not use cadmium pigments for yellows?
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Aug 8, 2015 21:46
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occamsnailfile posted:It does depend on the brand, cadmium is a bit toxic and also more expensive (we need our batteries okay) so you'll see a lot of "cadmium yellow (hue)" on non-miniature paints to indicate they're matching the hue but not using cadmium specifically. I've never had issue with a cadmium-based yellow paint, is why I was confused.
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Aug 10, 2015 02:45
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Good skulls.
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Aug 11, 2015 05:01
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Depending on when we do it, I'd be down for Mock goodness. If it helps inspire any of you, it's named "Mock" because in show it was basically a bootleg plastic model. Made by an alien.
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Sep 5, 2015 19:38
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For real though if you guys want to do a Gundam kit you should do one of the dirt cheap early kits, carry on the crappiness of the crap tank. This link'll show a lot of them.
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Sep 5, 2015 20:12
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Serotonin posted:Finished other than the shield which I can't do because my wife's not around to cut the decal out. Oh and needs some flock If I could paint like that I'd be content with never getting any better.
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Sep 7, 2015 00:17
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For sprays, the Tamiya Primer and various yellows work fine, right?
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Sep 9, 2015 04:53
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So I have a few brush questions. I know sable brushes are the way to go according to the OP but in my experience they're generally for oil and watercolor, as acrylic isn't exactly kind to brushes. However, this experience is more based on traditional painting rather than miniature work. With the amount of paint, and as thinned down as it is, is it a bit different for miniatures work?
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Sep 27, 2015 03:45
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Bistromatic posted:Thanks for the kind words y'all. Please do!
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Sep 29, 2015 07:08
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So I know that Tamiya is probably the premier producer of tools for plastics, but who're the good brands for tools for metal? I'm planning on doing some conversion work and am in dire need of a tiny saw and some files.
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Oct 2, 2015 22:56
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The Locator posted:Vallorbe You weren't kidding about the prices, but these look pretty fantastic. Is there one that you'd recommend as a general purpose file, just to start with?
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Oct 5, 2015 01:40
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So I ended up ordering some regular Game Color by mistake in my order of Model and Game Air (specifically Glorious Gold, Gunmental, Moon Yellow, and White.) Is there any recommendation on ratios to thin them to match the rest of the paints? For drybrushing and mixing, am I even going to need to thin them at all?
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Oct 13, 2015 01:54
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Are the Vallejo washes alright?
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Oct 14, 2015 21:04
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So the Sparmax TC-620X recced in the OP is close to 400 USD now. Does anybody have a recommendation that's in that 200-250 range?
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Mar 27, 2019 17:00
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Are any of the affordable (300 or less. Pref a lot less) pre-built spray booths fireproof? Sticking only to non-flammable paints seems rather limiting.
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Mar 27, 2019 22:41
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Booley posted:Painted up another batch of blood angels. A moritat, some Angel's Tears, and some tartaros. What do you do for your lightbox? I really like the reflection on the bottom.
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Apr 16, 2019 20:10
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So the Patriot 105 is just... not on Amazon whatever reason. Did it get replaced with a newer model or something? I had picked up a Sotar a while back during a sale but I wanted to get something more a general purpose, likely also badger so that I didn't need to get a bunch of adapters and such.
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Apr 29, 2019 05:48
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So 1/144 scale miniatures. These people are so tiny I'm going to need to be wearing magnifying lenses while I work. What are tips for a beginner? Is zenithal painting still effective at this scale? everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 20:32 on May 6, 2019 |
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May 6, 2019 19:32
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So the Badger Patriot is on clearance for like ~$50 at Michael's rn. In case you were looking for an Airbrush.
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May 25, 2019 16:20
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The Jumpoff posted:Is this in-store only? I can't find anything on their website. Yeah, in store. At our location they were behind the counter.
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May 25, 2019 17:57
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