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Progress on RT Dread conversion. Now with cables, more bulk and 500% more skulls. Shoulder things are GS casts from the Dreamforge leviathan kit. Still needs cleaning up, I'm going to add som Grey Knight shields and paraphenalia to the front, as well as some sensors, smoke launchers and a searchlight.
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Jun 29, 2015 11:05
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This just came in from shapeways: Girlfriend and kids are out of town for the next couple of days, time for some seriuos ham time!
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Jun 29, 2015 19:17
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There's backpacks a psycannon and various belt feed adaptors in addition to the bolters. Shapeways prices are OK if you design your own stuff. It's only when you also have to pay a markup to the designer (which is fair enough of course) that it gets a bit steep. With this set, at their very best material, I'm a above forge world prices, and in the region where I'm considering getting into resin casting once I get a proper workshop.
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Jun 29, 2015 20:56
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Ensign Expendable posted:More like "to pray of emperor". Google Translate is really not good. Sweet paint job though. That's actually perfect.
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Jul 3, 2015 05:01
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krushgroove posted:
Thanks, that's very thorough and informative. Do you think an ultrasonic cleaner would help?
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Jul 6, 2015 15:10
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Rahotep75 posted:Work in progress. Thoughts on the wood? Looks a whole lot like wood.
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Jul 7, 2015 04:23
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Ofaloaf posted:I did a bit of Warhammer Fantasy stuff a decade ago, and the recent Age of Sigmar talk has made me want to dust them off and give them a go with the Kings of War rules. I used to airbush mine with a bit of water at high psi.
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Jul 9, 2015 08:02
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Drake_263 posted:A colored glaze and a light drybrush with a bright silvery color (like the old Mithril SIlver/Runefang Steel paint) can give you a relatively fast and easy 'shimmery' effect. Would that be on top of a metallic basecoat of some sort? I'm going to be painting Grey Knight power weapons. I finally got a good airbrush, but doing the usual fades just seems boring now  On that topic, I finally finished building my Centurion to Dreadnought conversion:  Weapons - Dual lascannon and old-school missile launcher:  The thing has a lot of of Rogue Trader Era dreadnought DNA in it, as I unironically LOVED those things when they came out. I can objectively see they look goofy now, but man.. what can you do? Upper body is attached by a magnet and comes off for painting. Waist is obviously hugely inspired by this the Graven Games Cain conversion Pistons are from Zinge. It doesn't look quite as sharp as I wanted it, but I'm calling it done as it's part of a ETL commitment on B&C.
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Jul 14, 2015 19:56
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Thanks, it's supposed to say "AEGIS" though  The shoulder bits are actually a greenstuff cast from a Dreamforge Leviathan. No way I would be able to do two of those from scratch. That's really the hardest part of stuff like this, to keep things nice an symmetrical.
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Jul 14, 2015 20:50
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SRM posted:I'm gonna admit, I wasn't sure when you first posted this guy under construction. At this point though, I think this big lug looks great! Nice mix of new and old aesthetics. I think what really put me over the edge was the old school missile launcher. What do you have in mind for a paint scheme? Grey Knights so ... mainly grey  Honestly I wasn't sure about it myself, but sometimes you just gotta go with those crazy ideas and see where they lead. I certainly learned a lot. Thanks for all the nice comments guys  w00tmonger posted:Having some problems with my airbrush and I want to try and set myself up for success. Weird, I'm using it straight in mine without thinning, with a .2 (I think, the SOTAR Fine) needle without issues. What kind of aibrush are you using? I had a LOT of issues with my ultra cheap china airbrush, both in terms of usage and cleaning.
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Jul 15, 2015 14:34
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Yeah totally, also helps A LOT with sculpting. It's NOT because I'm getting old! Workspace in my messy corner of the dining room:  I cant wait till we move to out new house were we have room for an actual workshop
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Jul 15, 2015 19:15
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Moola posted:I mean Literally?
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Jul 22, 2015 13:11
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Skarsnik posted:Roboute Guilliman Incoming Fantastic work, so many little details.
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Jul 23, 2015 19:01
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Put PVA glue on the other side and hopefully the warps cancel each other out. Remember to max out your Geller field if you try this (it works).
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Jul 24, 2015 18:41
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signalnoise posted:I have a small room that I'm turning into my hobby room, for painting minis or whatever else. I need to paint the walls, and it has a low-hanging fluorescent shop light in there. Do you think that the wall color would mess with my perception of color on my minis? As Base Emitter said, the lights are your primary concern. Research and buy a good tube, that'll get you very far. With my old standard flourescent light, I could not tell green from brown. At all!
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Aug 8, 2015 16:19
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I've never experienced anything fixing itself with that sort of stuff  I've finished some stuff: Grey Knight Terminator squad (3D printed backpacks and guns):  Librarian:  Dreadknight (15mm Leviathan):  Dread converted from centurion:   Everything is a bit rough, as I had a deadline and had to paint it all with nothing but the gloomy Danish summer as a light source. I'll probably go back over them once I get our new workshop set up.
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Aug 9, 2015 13:29
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I agree. Once I get them under proper lighting I'll add some edge highlights and deepen the shadows a bit. Any further suggestions to make them pop? I'm thinking some of the red/white stripe design on the marine weapons maybe? For the knight and dread I should probably look intro weathering.
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Aug 9, 2015 20:51
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signalnoise posted:This isn't directly miniatures related but it is tradgames related.. I have an idea for a tiny item and I need a prototype 3D printed but I have no idea where to start with that. How do I make a file that a 3D printing service can do for me and which service should I use? Low-detail here Do you already have a file and need it saved corretly? Shapeways eats a LOT of different filetypes and isn't fuzzy about a lot of the details. It all depends on the 3D vendor and your software. I use Blender (which is free) for modelling and from there it's simple to export to printing. Post 9-11 User posted:Maybe a gentle application of a bright metallic highlight on the weapons, I see some hints of that on the gatling weapon on the Dreadknight. Some more red/white mural work could be done on the Knight and other stuff, I wouldn't go too strong with the edge highlights because these are bordering on the semi-realistic look that some SA painters have done recently. I'm trying to edge away (ho ho!) from hard edge highlighting myself, it's less flashy but more natural looking. I should take some photos of the full set of Dark Eldar stuff I've done, some photos that aren't crap. Yeah. I need to decide if I just want a tabletop force or keep trying to make them better. From the conversions I hope it's clear that I'm going for a more realistic style, so I guess I have to think about the edge hilghlights. The idea with the guns is to hit the metal parts with a satin varnish when they are done. Guns usually don't have metal parts showing bare metal unless they are really banged up. The psycannon barrels are drybrushed with metalichs though, I hope to make some kind of heat discolouring on them .
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Aug 11, 2015 19:38
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Silhouette posted:Don't buy Kneadatite for stuff like that, just buy a tub of Magic Sculp on Amazon. It's epoxy putty, but you get a fuckload of it for cheap, and it holds detail just as well as green putty. You can also mix it with greenstuff to get better properties for hard surface modelling.
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Aug 17, 2015 08:57
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Is there any guides to green stuffing seams focusing on organics? Clay sharpers and lots of lube.
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Aug 19, 2015 06:23
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Painted my son's bus with a red pattern to match the ones in our city: Learned a few things on the technical side: Vallejo air is more transparant than I thought. I just sprayed red over the black lettering. Tamia masking tape is incredible. Microsol varnish can take a beating.
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Aug 19, 2015 21:09
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Post 9-11 User posted:I was dating a woman with a four-year-old who liked toy cars and Ben 10, [skip the horrific accident that ended what was to be our family] so I painted one of his cars in the colors and logo of the show. I even bought some extra Hotwheels cars and added racing slicks to the back of the car, replaced the broken axle in the front. That you painted a bus for your son is very, very sweet and the paintjob is great. I've never had painter's tape work well for me (even when painting walls) but you are the latest in a string of people this year that said it works superbly. Hazard stripes, canopies, et cetera. There's a lot of "look honey, I'm useful" in it, but he did love his new bus Normal painter's tape sucks for both appartments and minis. Tamiya tape is awesome, and a completely different product.
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Aug 21, 2015 18:37
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Avenging Dentist posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for an alternative to brown stuff? Based on the description, brown stuff is exactly what I want, but the manufacturer doesn't make it anymore. I've heard complaints about Milliput in comparison, and then there are options like ProCreate or Privateer's putty. Specifically I'm looking for something harder than green stuff. Procreate and magicsculp is what I use for hard edges. Magicsulp is the harder of the two I feel. You can mix both with greenstuff for varying results
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Aug 25, 2015 21:05
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Note, that the better the material is for hard edges the less sticky it is. Greenstuff is often best for fixing small things, simply because it doesn't fall off your model.
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Aug 26, 2015 13:07
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krushgroove posted:You'll probably notice a big difference if you've been airbrushing for a while. If you're used to using the fine detail needle/nozzle set (you are using them as a set, right? they're matched together and that's how they're meant to be used) you should be experienced enough to know how to thin and clean the 360 properly enough to use the Sotar. The Sotar (and Renegade Krome) will have a much finer spray - excuse the lame comparison, but think 'high definition' compared to the 360 or Patriot because it's just machined smoother and to a higher grade than the general purpose models. If it doesn't spray as smoothly, it's clogged up or something else is wrong (probably a clog). Does it make any sense to but a second, good airbrush if you already have a Sotar? The Sotar is so much easir to use than my crappy cheap one, but I'm wondering if I should get a mid-grade one for undercoats and basecoats - and maybe use the cheap one just for varnish? Hauki posted:More in adventures of first-time painting: I've been painting on and off for 25 years or so, and I never got confortable with spray can priming. I still end up with way to heavy coats obscuring details once in a while. Chill la Chill posted:For those of you guys who airbrush at home, what's your setup look like? I'm hoping a basic box and newspapers is fine for purely airbrushing water based paints and that I don't need an extractor. I did buy a respirator with OG/AV P100 which might be overkill but whatever it's cheap. Ideally I want something small I can place on my small table in my apartment. It's nice and folds up very compact, but I'm not sure if there's enough suction to really work.
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Sep 1, 2015 15:00
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big_g posted:Over in the Scale Modeling thread we have been having a group project for the month of August. The idea was to all buy the same cheapo crap kit and see who could come up with the best end product. That's an awesome idea with awesome results
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Sep 1, 2015 18:54
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nesbit37 posted:I am going to order a form 1+ resin based 3d printer and a filament based printer with the extra cash I have in the budget for the maker space I run at work. I would love to use it occasionally for printing minis, especially 10mm and 28mm scale ones. Do any if you have any resources for getting started in that, be it just tips on doing the digital sculpture with casting in mind, places that do releases of open source models, etc? It's fun, go for it I'm getting my stuff printed at Shapeways but would love to have my own resin based printer. Stuff like model orientation would be extremely useful to be able to control.I used Blender for building what I printed so far. It's extremely powerful, especially considering that it's free. It has traditonal modelling as well as sculpting (I haven't tried that). Blender even has a 3D printing module to optimize your model for printing and export it! Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Sep 13, 2015 |
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Sep 13, 2015 17:07
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That's awesome on so many levels. Is that an official model? I always wanted a cyberdaemon!
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Sep 14, 2015 17:29
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Thank you so much for paint chem 101 guys. A few things finally clicked for me!
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Sep 17, 2015 19:45
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Great, more ways to overthink this. I got some ""water for injection" I wanted to use, but it's so pure it's almost corrosive, so I'm afraid it'll gently caress up some ion balance or something :-/
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Sep 18, 2015 19:20
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Check these out:  Pretty drat cool models. Then you realise that they are laser cut MDF  http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_VH
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Sep 22, 2015 15:56
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SRM posted:I feel like a lot of it's gotta come down to the painting, but drat them's some nice orks. Their buildings are solid too. Yeah there's probably a lot of filling and filing going on as well. But the basic designs are VERY good no matter what the material is.
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Sep 22, 2015 19:34
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Citadel used to do that a lot back in the 80ies with pewter minis. I think they just used master cast parts.
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Oct 1, 2015 04:50
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Avenging Dentist posted:I suppose that means using not-greenstuff, since filing that is a pain in the rear end. I haven't tried ProCreate for gap-filling yet, but I assume it's about as good as greenstuff for it? Much better for filing, but not as sticky when you put it on.
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Nov 14, 2015 10:23
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big_g posted:I've been away this weekend but took some time tonight to gloss varnish and add a dark grey pin wash to the Ghostkeel. I love this model and what you're doing with it!
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Nov 30, 2015 20:25
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OneTrueBru posted:My ghetto-workbench made from Ikea stuff (bonus insanity carpet): Nice, I love all the little drawers. Do you remember what it's called? I hope to start building my new workstation this summer, and that looks like just the thing! Edit: And now I found it, Kallax. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 13:47
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OneTrueBru posted:The unit itself is cheap, but buying the drawers is quite expensive (£16/2 - £128 total). Although you don't necessarily have to go as drawer-mad as I did. That's Ikea for you though. Everything seems cheap or reasonable, and then when you reach checkout, it adds up to an obscene amount of money. I DO want to go drawer mad, so I'm also looking at this: http://www.ikea.com/dk/da/catalog/products/50192822/ (The same ones SN is using?) I already have a nice table and some closets for the larger stuff. Getting to build a dedicated room for this stuff is awesome
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Feb 14, 2016 19:34
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It looks absolutely fantastic for an hour. My usual work during nap time is to look at a mini and think about painting it.
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Feb 15, 2016 18:56
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Avenging Dentist posted:This is a question I already know an answer to, but more answers would be good. For smoothing significant divots in flat surfaces, what do people use? I'm using ProCreate to fill in the bulk of it, and then Mr. Dissolved Putty over top to create an easily-sandable surface that I can get really smooth. Is there a better way? This sounds way better then what I'm doing, had a lot of issues with sanding thin putty in transistion areas. Got to get som of that Mr. DP
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Mar 25, 2016 19:43
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Those jeans look incredible!
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May 6, 2016 12:19
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