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Ensign Expendable posted:You joke, but a semi-local model shop sells old Tamiya catalogs to the tune of $10 a pop. Yeah, but those are nice color catalogs of professionally painted models, often on amazing dioramas. It's more the equivalent of the old GW catalogs you had to pay for (with less B&W photography.)
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Apr 29, 2015 14:23
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Big McHuge posted:I picked up some Pink Soap brush cleaner, but there aren't actually instructions on it. How much do I add to my water cup when I'm painting? Or is it something to only use when I'm done for the day? The More You Know... 
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May 1, 2015 20:30
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My W&N came in tubes. The GW ones have a black ferrule though, and that reduces the harsh reflections given off by normal silver ferrules. This allows you to paint your miniatures to a much higher standard than other brushes. I'm trying to figure out the flat chisel thing that says "Texture."
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May 3, 2015 02:10
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LordAba posted:Is this an actual thing, or am I just dense? I was joking, but I wouldn't put it past GW to market them in this way. JoshTheStampede posted:They literally just made a brush for each category of paint they make, even if they don't need one. There's no loving reason to have a separate brush for glazes. I'm pretty sure the Small Base, Medium Layer, and Medium Glaze are all the same brush. I don't know, like JoshTheStampede says, the newer brushes aren't bad. Considering you'll be able to pick them up for 20% off retail online also makes them a pretty decent deal - $6.40 per brush? berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 14:28 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 14:25
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SRM posted:I built a Dark Angels army from Dark Vengeance sets for cheap then torpedoed any and all savings I had by buying Dragonforge bases for every loving dude. They look great, but in hindsight I really wish I just based them like my Valhallans. Would've made allying easier too.  Looks good, though I think it could benefit from some chipping and staining to break up all that silver. Are you planning on doing a full IW army, or was this a one off?
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May 3, 2015 22:47
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No - avoid primer. You're going to get a grainy texture that will look like crap at this scale. Just get some flat white/black/gray and you should be all set. I'm sure some UK Goons can recommend a good brand for you - in the US, I'd recommend Krylon Flat. To go into more detail, primer has particles in the paint that give the base coat some "tooth" or grab. Paint prefers to stick to a surface that is slightly rough, and primer does that well for walls, autobody, etc. At a smaller scale though, you don't need all of that texture to get a good grip.
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May 4, 2015 16:54
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by.a.teammate posted:Good catch thanks for that, i've seen this on element games, hows this? I've never used that, but it or the Tamiya big_g recommended should work. The Panzer Grey is specifically used as a primer and basecoat, similar to the Army Painter sprays. If you're just going to paint a different color over the top, you're better off getting a larger can of basic flat spray from your local DIY store. OP recommends Halford’s Grey Primer as a good paint if you're in the UK.
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May 4, 2015 18:55
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What are the kids using these days for a chipped paint effect? I know Charadon Granite was all the rage, but since you can't get it anymore, what is the alternative?
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May 4, 2015 20:16
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Sauer posted:A medium grey or a metallic grey of any sort is fine. Browns and red brown are good for rust. Remember that less is more. You can also go all in with real chips. Google "Hairspray Chipping" or "Salt Chipping" effects. Slimnoid posted:http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/05/my-replacement-for-charadon-granite.html Hixson posted:I used a shiny metallic for paint chips on a land raider some time ago. I wouldn't recommend it, it only looks right when the light hits from certain angles
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May 4, 2015 20:54
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JoshTheStampede posted:If the models are plastic, this is fine advice - spray paint will stick just fine. If they are metal or resin, I would really recommend a primer - In addition to having tooth it also bonds with the surface to some degree, and regular paint sometimes will have a hard time sticking to metal or resin - if regular paint stuck fine you wouldn't need a primer coat to begin with. Personally, I've never had a problem with regular spray on metal. I've never used an actual primer - but I suppose if you're starting out, you can experiment and see what works best for you. BULBASAUR posted:A more important question is- what kind of color are you trying to chip? You want different colors of chip depending on the base color. signalnoise posted:Too simple?
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May 5, 2015 01:25
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Army Painter is good , and you get the added benefit of having your basecoat done off the bat and having matching dropper-bottle paints as well, so you don't have to worry about your base and touchup colors being different. However, I've found that AP spray does not adhere to metals particularly as well and will rub or chip off easier than, say, Krylon will, under normal handling. I don't know if this holds true for plastics - obviously most stuff now is either plastic or resin, so this may not affect you . Once properly sealed, I don't know if you'll have this issue. As for best around, I still stand by Krylon in the US. I have never had a problem with it, it coats well, and handles nicely. I'd recommend the AP if you're in a rush or have a lot of models to paint in one go.
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May 5, 2015 13:50
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Welp, I've had a productive lunch hour for once. Combat Patrol, here I come: [  56 Steel Legion based and ready for priming/basecoating. Also, I'd like to share something I figured out for those of you who still have slotta bases - toilet paper/kleenex. Tear off a little bit, apply a glue/water mix around the exposed slot area, and apply tissue. Instant coverage - it's pretty awesome.
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May 5, 2015 18:24
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Iris of Ether posted:Ooh. You're pretty much applying quasi-paper-mache there. That's not a bad idea. Yep. I was going to use tape or putty, but wound up going this route, and it was quick and easy. Tape wouldn't hold due the lack of surface area, since I was only trying to cover a small portion of the slot.
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May 5, 2015 18:55
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Wash your metal minis and buff them with a rag. What does this have to do with anything? I wash all of my minis - AP doesn't have the tooth that Krylon does and doesn't adhere as well to metal minis.
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May 5, 2015 20:20
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Fyrbrand posted:Holy poo poo I stopped in some random out of town LGS and found 3 pots of Charadon Granite drat your eyes. At least there are good alternatives to Boltgun Metal. There isn't poo poo for Charadon Granite.
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May 5, 2015 20:47
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Is there anyone who does Chimera track armor? My old Chimeras don't have extras like that...
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May 7, 2015 16:18
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Reynold posted:FW no longer produces the track guard kits (which were total rear end and warped all to hell every time), and I haven't found a suitable replacement either. Oh, it was an FW thing? I thought they were on some extras sprue. I don't really need them, but I was going to be lazy and not put on all of the track sections.
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May 7, 2015 16:43
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SRM posted:They were on the old IG accessory sprue, which you can still get from GW: Ah ha! Thanks! As a side note, for a planet covered in pollution and ash storms, an awful lot of my Steel Legion models are not wearing their goggles... Has anyone used the Games and Gears silicone brush yet? I'm curious as to how well it works (or doesn't). berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 18:10 on May 7, 2015 |
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May 7, 2015 18:05
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big_g posted:I'm finally calling it done on the Corsair I posted a while back. Came out looking okay I think.  It's pretty awesome, man. signalnoise posted:Oh, if we're talking permanent storage solutions then I like an Ikea Alex drawer unit with a pick and pluck foam insert I like this idea. The only downside I see is a lot of wasted space due to the pluck foam walls. EDIT: I just went ahead and bought the Agrax. The DIY question still stands though. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 18:00 on May 11, 2015 |
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May 11, 2015 14:52
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signalnoise posted:It's only a problem if you have hundreds upon hundreds of paints, fortunately. I can see that. Vallejo question - I've got a bottle of the VMC Charred Brown. When I went to apply it to my models, it was acting like I mixed too much water into it (i.e. pulling away from the model, flowing into the recesses, etc.) I shook the bottle some more (I have agitators in it) and even went as far as to pop the top and stir the paint (no pigment was congealed on the bottom) and put some on my palette, not adding any water this time. Same problem. It's like there is very little pigment in the bottle and a shitload of colored water. Granted, the bottle is a few years old (8+) but I've got other old VMC that I don't have an issue with. Has anyone else had this problem? Possibly related, I'm applying over AP spray Desert Yellow - could the AP be too smooth for good adherence? I've already applied VMC Heavy Charcoal with no problem, but I know that it has a higher pigment ratio, so it may not be comparing apples to apples...
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May 11, 2015 18:07
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GAH! Screw you Army Painter spray! I spray an entire army and my VMC paints will not stick to the models because the AP is too smooth. gently caress. Now I have to hope that a light dullcote will give me enough tooth without ruining things (washes, in particular.) I don't want to have to strip, rebase, and prime an entire army again. 
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May 12, 2015 16:45
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Slimnoid posted:I've had that happen before and yeah, a coat or two of matte varnish does the trick. SRM posted:I really love Army Painter spray but it's a pretty lovely primer. My newest batch of Ultramarines are primed white before using the AP Crystal Blue primer, since I was having chipping problems. Nebalebadingdong posted:gently caress, a whole army!
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May 12, 2015 18:18
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HardCoil posted:Does anybody have good tips for cutting styrene tubing? They sell these chopper things that are essentially razor blades on an arm. The arm is straight, but there are angle guides for your styrene. Get to tha choppah!
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May 14, 2015 15:12
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I don't know - I've tried everything from freehand, to rolling, to mitre boxes, and I can never get a good cut. I imagine that a Chopper will be my next purchase when I have to do plasticard.
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May 14, 2015 15:38
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It shouldn't be any worse than an Exacto blade. Styrene tubes aren't exactly drinking straws.
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May 14, 2015 16:56
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OneTrueBru posted:God, it's been ages since I touched a brush. Decided the most sensible way to shake the rust off would be following a step-by-step, so I picked up a copy of Angel Giraldez's "A-Z painting for idiots" guidebook and tried my hand at painting the included Joan of Arc miniature: Z the IVth posted:I really hate to say this, since I think your face painting is actually miles better than Giraldez's hooker makeup on Joan, but you have a couple of tiny varnish cracks on her right boob.  Hooker makeup? Really? I think you're being a bit over the top, there.
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May 26, 2015 16:47
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SRM posted:OneTruBru's skintone is more natural Speaking of, I happened to look on Ebay to see how many of the Joan models were up for sale. Only one painted one was offered, but there were about a dozen NIB models sold thus far. Which leads me to believe that a bunch of people bought the book/model combo and didn't bother to paint the instructional mini. That seems to me like buying a paint by number kit and selling off the canvas, but keeping the instructions...
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May 26, 2015 19:45
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Pierzak posted:It's not an instructional mini, it's a preorder bonus. And since it's a gaming piece and the non-limited sculpt is old as gently caress, the obvious thing is to ebay it and paint something from your own faction. I thought it was the mini he goes step by step with to teach? Does anyone have a scan of the FW Thunderbolt instructions? The kit I got doesn't have them and I can't seem to find a copy online.
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May 27, 2015 01:51
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SRM posted:I tossed mine once I finished building the thing Yeah, I found that as well. It's not an overly complicated model, so I should be ok with that and the Youtube video I found. Thanks.
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May 27, 2015 10:39
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I picked mine up at Adepticon at the flea market, so no dice with an order number. Again, it shouldn't be a big deal as there aren't a lot of fiddly little parts. At least it isn't a titan...
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May 27, 2015 12:45
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KFJ posted:Try sending them an email anyway, it takes 5 minutes and it won´t hurt, right? Unzip and Attack posted:Long story short, I'm basing my 28mm historicals on galvanized washers and creating unit trays that use magnet strips to hold them in place. It works great but there's one hitch - I sprayed the trays with brown rustoleum primer to make them look like "ground" (it's a nice effect) and the coat doesn't affect the magnet strength, but if I leave the minis on the magnet strips for a while, the primer sort of sticks to the under side of the washers. Is there anything I can do to keep this from happening?
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May 27, 2015 15:15
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Any reason you just don't spray? Try spraying only the trays and seeing how that goes.
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May 27, 2015 16:50
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KFJ posted:Alright! Hope it goes well - They've been pretty helpful to me so far with painting help and so on.
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May 28, 2015 12:48
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Yeast posted:Faaark. I have flown with all types of mini paints and have never had a problem. Skip taping each bottle - if they do leak, the electrical tape won't stop it. Put them in ziploc bags and you should be ok. If you want to be super safe, put the bag with paint into another bag and tape that one closed, just in case there are leaks. Again, I've never had a leak, but accidents happen, especially when you're dealing with sealed bottles of liquid in an unpressurized cargo hold.
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Jun 2, 2015 13:22
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head58 posted:Also Sabol is having a sale through June 14. You could pick up a second bag or one of their backpacks. I can usually fit two 50pt lists into my Army Transport bag, but I run a lot of small infantry. If you play Trolls or something larger I can see why that might not work. Have you seen the backpack in real life? I was just looking at it, but it looks seriously uncomfortable to wear... I'd love to have a good gaming bag I could use as a backpack, but the choices either seem to be "giant box on your back" or "regular backpack with a cardboard box inside." I know trays don't lend themselves well to a backpack though, so I doubt I'll ever find anything that I'll go for. If the PACK Go was an inch wider, I'd be able to use it for my SD trays - I don't know if I could finagle a 13" wide tray into a space meant for a 12" wide tray. Not sure how much play is in the case... signalnoise posted:I could go on for pages about storage
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Jun 2, 2015 18:50
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EVIR Gibson posted:Myself and JoshTheStampede both have the backpack and it is far from uncomfortable. Padded back shoulders and it's both huge side pockets and a front pocket that can hold a book and other thin items. I was referring to the AT bag - it sounds like you're talking about the KR, correct?
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Jun 3, 2015 02:41
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Drone posted:What's the go-to paint remover in continental Europe (Germany specifically, if anyone knows)? I painted up a test miniature in a Deathwing scheme in preparation for my DV box getting here and it looks like poo poo, so I want to scrub it down and give it a re-do. Another option is to coat/base in brown, do a 45 degree spray of bone, then an 90 degree spray from the top in white (zenithal.) There isn't a lot of sense in priming white if you are just going to coat it all in brown after. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyrDWHYLGjo
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Jun 3, 2015 15:19
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Drone posted:I don't own an airbrush unfortunately. Unless a normal spray primer can from the hardware store is precise enough for stuff like this.. I gave it a shot once and the result turned out pretty poor as the zenithal gradient was much too dramatic. Suck your paint through a straw and blow it out onto your model. If it was good enough for stone age Warhams, it should be good enough for you! 
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Jun 3, 2015 16:25
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Does anyone have both the original Rhino kit and the FW Deimos Pattern Rhino kit? I've got 4-5 of the original Rhinos and I'm wondering what kind of a size difference there is and if any of the FW bits will properly fit with the old one. Same with the Land Raider, if anyone happens to have compared them as well. I'm thinking of doing a small 30K force and if I can bling the old stuff out a bit, I can save  .EDIT: Oh, and if anyone has a modern Rhino turret sprue, I'm in need. For some reason, I have a Rhino kit with no turrets/guns/driver. 
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Jun 8, 2015 19:13
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serious gaylord posted:The forge world ones are based on the current rhino kit, so the old rhinos will be too small. Yeah, that's what I though. Oh well, I'll just have to paint everything on.
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Jun 8, 2015 19:45
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