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Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Moola posted:




I had a go, here's a test spook, it's a lot harder than I thought

gonna try some more tomorrow!

That's adorable :3:

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Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

ijyt posted:

Haha holy poo poo missed that gobbo, that trenchcoat made me think of Deckard from Blade Runner.

"You see squiq in dirt, lying on back, legs flailing. You no laugh."

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
My friend painted me this kickass mini to use for our next scifi game, Commander Shep Predator.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

JesusIsTehCool posted:

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice on masking tape, while not perfect them came out 100 times better.



I think apply varnish after applying the masking tape diamonds when a really long way to prevent bleeding. Now I just need to finish painting the bikes and paint the riders.

That's awesome, I'll have to try the same with some minis of mine.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

thespaceinvader posted:

Crossposted from the wangs thread, babby's first kitbash/scratchbuild

Neat! My Star Wars RPG crew had that ship briefly, got some use of the map for it.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Slimnoid posted:

The latter. Short, controlled bursts can result in uneven layers, and in the case of gloss can sometimes result in pooling.

Good to know!

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
Maybe draw in some spots between rips to make it look like a pattern effect? Add some kirby dots or lens flare type patterns. Either way, thumbs up on the itasha starship :3:

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Chill la Chill posted:

Bob Ross was right. Happy accidents are the best.

Looks great! Did you make the decal yourself or purchase it somewhere?

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

mango sentinel posted:

What's the preferred water temperature for reshaping Reaper plastic minis?

My tap water isn't hot enough, and I've got an electric kettle but don't want to straight up melt them.

I've been using boiling kettle water, which doesn't melt them, but can make them droopy so make sure to dunk them in cold water after shaping them.

I use a hot water bath and a cold water bath with ice, and that's been very useful for reshaping Bones and certain plastic figures as well.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
I've only had difficulty priming the translucent orange bones from kickstarter 2; the primer was gummy to the touch and did not adhere, so I've boiled and cleaned them and am hoping for a day with less humidity to prime them again. Other than that they've been great with brand name and discount primers, and have worked well with varnishes.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Cat Face Joe posted:

me when i look at my painting queue:

I just did some spring cleaning and man can I empathize with this, haha.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Beerdeer posted:

Does anyone know a source for not-Doctor Who models? A lot of the old reliables have gone poof. I really want a 9th Doctor chronomancer for Frostgrave

Just pointing out that the Bones phone box exists, as well as some weeping angels.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
Looks great, where's the head from?

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Nebalebadingdong posted:

Its from Bad Squiddo

http://badsquiddogames.com/shop#!/Heads/c/21237340/offset=0&sort=normal

Tho the pony tail is cut from the beard of a GW 5th edition dwarf warriors sprue

Cool, Annie's really been adding to the conversion bits.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Dr. Phildo posted:

Annie rocks buy from her

She also has a great selection of conversion bits as well. The Statuesque line have heads scaled to Warhammer bodies and slimmer ones.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

dexefiend posted:



Base coated, washed, drybrushed Liquitex Yellow Oxide. They still have a long way to go, but they are an easy relaxation project after studying.

Autumn is coming!

Looking pretty sharp, they could easily fit into a Halloween army or just do their own thing. Did you use a type of crackle mixture on the bases for the dirt effect?

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Rhaegar posted:

What's the best grey spray primer around for the price? Thinking of spraying my new Tzeentch guys gray instead of white or black.

P.S. I live in Canada.

Krylon does a decent grey primer, your region may limit what brands you get. Most GW stuff is plastic or metal so it'll be fine, krylon does not like reaper bones. Either it gets all tacky or it just doesn't adhere and comes off in large sections.

edit: Rustoleum is good choice as well, though again regions come into play. I'm here in BC where they are very fussy about rattlecan waste, while Alberta is a bit more forgiving.

Weirdo fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Aug 29, 2017

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Rhaegar posted:

Yeah I'm in Surrey. Was trying to find Army Painter but haven't had much luck. Will look at Krylon and Rustoleum. Thanks.

Ha, neat! You can find some Army Painter sprays in many Vancouver gaming stores, but I'd recommend using them sparingly, since each can costs about 50% more than either krylon or rustoleum. That said, Army Painter does have a nice range of colours with good coverage (the can brags 'primer and basecoat in one') only watch out spraying it in this heatwave.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Electric Hobo posted:

Oath thread crosspost:

I think my undead bases are getting to a good place. I made some bismuth crystals to use as rocks to show that these guys are living in a weird place.
Also tried out the Ammo oilbrusher on the shields. It's much thicker that I thought it would be, so it covers everything pretty heavily even after I spread it out.

The catapult mid-fire is fantastic, I have to try that myself (after working on some of my backlog).

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
It can sort of stain paper and the like, but I can also attest to having no issues using blue-tac to stick minis together.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

richyp posted:

Paint with washes for undead, especially if there's a tonne to do.

Prime white, wash Sepia, highlight white. Super fast, looks decent and saves a tonne of time when painting hordes of the boney bastards.


I did an undead army a couple of years ago. These guys were done that way a while back. From memory, white primer, paint metals. Wash everything in Sepia, then wash over metals in blue, wash wood bits in Brown. Apply more Sepia to bandages, and then paint the blue bits with paint. Keep a hairdryer handy and you can churn out a lot quickly.

As always though, blue and teal are the true stars of the show.

Thanks for this post; I've got a bunch of Mantic undead I've been meaning to get to and this is great inspiration.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
My Patriot 105 has been very forgiving as an airbrush to learn on, and would recommend it. Also that pot with the stand has been invaluable.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Quidthulhu posted:

What's the best way to strip paint completely from Citadel minis? I'm usually one to just live with my fuckups but I accidentally primed a set of Pox Walkers in Grey instead of White, and following Duncan's guide using mostly shades instead of paint they're way too dark. Hilighting the faces are getting a little black-face-y, so I want to start these ones over.

The Simple Green brand of all purpose cleaner is a good choice, just put the figures in a tub or dish (I use a yogurt container with a lid) cover them with cleaner, and give it a couple of days. Most of the paints will fleck off and and gentle brush with an old toothbrush removes even sticky primers. There are quicker methods with harsher cleaners, but simple green is my basic household cleaner and it's mild enough I don't need gloves.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

BJPaskoff posted:

I'm afraid to put TOO much primer on my model, but it's semi-transparent in some places. Will paint stick to it just as well or should I dare to hit it again? It's Army Painter Alien Purple if that matters. It's not like it's bare plastic.

When I use army painter as primer for my reaper bones, sometimes bits of the underside are semi-transparent when I'm done. Sometimes I hit them with an extra shot of primer, sometimes I don't, I haven't noticed a difference either way :shrug:

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Pyrolocutus posted:

Speaking as a painter for a couple years but a complete airbrush newbie, what's the one model I should look at getting?
I started with the Badger Patriot 105 as it came highly goon-recommended, and I agree with them. It's been a great airbrush to learn on and hearty enough to withstand some user failure. I think mine is missing a rubber sealing ring, but has otherwise lasted me 2-3 years of mostly seasonal work.

edit: According to the manual, it can also be used for cake decorating and spray on tans!

quote:

Badger https://www.badgerairbrush.com and https://www.badger-airbrush.co.uk (airbrushes and paints) - USA-made airbrushes, the Patriot 105 is considered ‘the AK-47 of airbrushes’ (goon quote, it's a high compliment) because of its simplicity and versatility. It’s perfect for priming and base coating. The Renegade Krome and Sotar are high detail brushes and are also highly rated. I would NOT recommend the Sotar as your first airbrush (many people snap them up in Amazon's crazy cheap deals) unless you're prepared to learn very quickly about thinning your paints and keeping your airbrush clean. Note that Badger price their airbrushes lower than other brands because historically they just have. This does not mean they are 'cheaper' or lower quality, they are just as good as much more expensive airbrushes.

Weirdo fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jan 4, 2018

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Enentol posted:

Any :canada: goons have a good source for Winsor and Newton brushes that won't cost me an arm and a leg?

I used Meeplemart in the past, but their customer service on my last order has me looking elsewhere.

The Sentry Box in Calgary might have some stock and they do fair shipping and have great customer service, the downside is their online catalogue is broken so you'd have to fire them an email.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

always be closing posted:

I think it breaks it down a bit so it doesn't curl as bad.

Neat gonna try this out.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer
I knew my rooibos was good for the garden, I'll have to try it as basing flock too.

Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Skails posted:

Can confirm. I use both, would recommend using black/grey/or brown- brush on white primer leaves a splotchy finish that takes so many layers to get a smooth base coat.

Agreed. Also seconding the recommendation for Stynylrez, it's the Badger brand for airbrushes, but it's really good as a brush on primer and my painting buddy who teaches mini painting uses it almost exclusively since he prefers how it sprays and coats.

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Weirdo
Jul 22, 2004

I stay up late :coffee:

Grimey Drawer

Verisimilidude posted:

How much space do you need for an airbrush? I have a small desk and apartment, and I’m wondering if I should wait until I have more space available to get one.

Not much, I have a small apartment and use my airbrush on the balcony in summer, and near the open window when otherwise and I have no complaints.

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