Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Here's a project I've been working on for the past month...

FANTASY TOAD!!!!

I'm not the world's best photographer, but you get the picture. This is the first mini I tried using glazing rather than traditional shading and layering. I really like how it turned out, but in the garish light it doesn't look as subtle as it does in person.

And the base as of right now. I'm still figuring out what I want to do here. Something with jungle foliage, but it's hard to replicate leaves and vegetation because I haven't really tried that yet.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2020 23:47

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# ¿ May 21, 2024 17:36

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

TotalHell posted:

Personal opinion, maybe go another layer of highlight/edge highlighting up on the face in order to draw that focus and try keeping the pants as they are.

Agreed. The face/head is where the eye is naturally drawn so it's a good idea to spend some time here giving it some additional detail and highlights.

# ¿ Apr 2, 2020 17:05

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

hooman posted:

This is the result which I'm much happier with:

You've made a definite improvement for sure and I'd encourage you to keep going with the highlights. Have you considered pure white on the extreme edges of the skull?

Give it a try, if you don't like it you can always go back.

Someone once told me that you should apply highlights until you feel you've got enough, and then go at least two more shades lighter. It's good advice and you can always undo it.

# ¿ Apr 3, 2020 18:09

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

I like the bases on those Shadow Warriors. How'd you do that?

# ¿ Apr 7, 2020 20:21

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

I've painted up the Star Wars Legion box set. Fun game. Here are a couple pieces.
Also, I'm really liking this MacroMat. It's really brought up my miniature photography game 100 fold. Thanks to the 40k Badcast for that hot tip. I'm going through the entire backlog of that podcast right now as I paint.

The "Greedo" graffiti is from a printout I made and colored in with colored pencils. I glued it to the barricade with thinned down white glue.

# ¿ Jun 1, 2020 02:16

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Schadenboner posted:

Great paint-job, though. What's the little white decal on the nose?

Thanks.
It's a leftover I had from a Tamiya 1/48 Tiger Tank decal sheet I have.
I store all my unused decals together for various projects. The other side of the model has a "7" from a Maschinen Krieger kit I did a few years back.

# ¿ Jun 2, 2020 03:42

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Here's a model I recently finished that I really like. Heinrich Kemmler (nice job on the name, GeeDubs), the original lichemaster.

And here are some models I hate. These are plastic lumps of sadness. The face sculpts are expressionless in the extreme and everything else about them makes me not want to paint them. I was like Vincent Van Gogh violently stabbing color onto them all the while screaming profanities at this hobby I love so much. Sadly, this is the second set of these shits I've had to paint. The first set I did as a commission for the local game stores' set and I did them much better than these. I wanted my personal set to look like they have had their equipment stretched thin, a mix of personal and provided items, hence the blue shirts and gray gloves. I've got 9 more of these minis to go. Courage.

# ¿ Jun 6, 2020 13:39

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

lenoon posted:

Does anyone have any recommendations for a paint on wet look? Usually I testors dullcote everything but I'm looking to have a xenomorph style shiny/wet look for my tyranid skin bit.

Pledge Floor Care Wood Floor Finish with Future Shine

Also called Future Floor Wax. Even if you don't end up using it for this purpose, you should have some on hand because it's useful for creating a base for decals and making washes. It's got a pleasant scent, too.

# ¿ Jun 6, 2020 19:45

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

moths posted:

The bases are still extremely under construction, but I did some Rippers and wanted to share how adorable 2e was for anyone under 40.

I love those old 2e 'nids. The carnifex especially is up there on my favorite models list.

Also, 2e is the best version.

# ¿ Jun 7, 2020 21:23

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

I've still got all of the old 2e codexes and read through them on occasion. GW didn't take the universe very seriously back then.
A friend of mine and I would fight the post-college underemployment blues by retreating to his parents' attic each weekday night after work and playing a game or two of 2e until 10pm. We did this for about a year, most everyday, my guard vs his orks, just doing time until we both finally found better employment. It's safe to say Warhams got me through a really tough period of my life.

# ¿ Jun 7, 2020 22:26

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

I used to take my toy Spacemans vary seriously.

But then I said, no, let's get weird.

# ¿ Jun 14, 2020 14:07

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Skails posted:

Finally finished up the Lord of Blights for Darren Latham's masterclass. Started this thing in January and worked on it on -and-off but managed to finish before his YouTube goes dark on June 18. Was a lot of fun and definitely beyond what I could have done without guidance.

It looks amazing. Can you post something you did before you did the class? It's always great to see the improvement side by side. This post has inspired me to give his masterclass series on the lord of blights a go.

# ¿ Jun 15, 2020 03:08

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

[quote="Nebalebadingdong" post="529728614"]

tree

Where'd you get this tree? I like the look of it and it looks like it would fit in well with warmaster games.

# ¿ Feb 12, 2023 05:58

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Finished this guy last weekend even though I've had the model for years in my pile. As far as how long it took me... I watched Hateful Eight while I painted and finished it by the end of the movie.

I was experimenting with zenithal highlighting and not using black as a primer. I used Vallejo royal purple, white zenithal, and then various greens airbrushed on and contrast paints. Came together real nice.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2023 02:55

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

AndyElusive posted:

Nicely done.

With that said, I don't know how you guys who paint Nurgle stuff can do it without throwing up in your mouth every couple of hours.

It's causing me mild trypophobia. Like I actually get kind of nauseous looking at that Great Unclean One's back.

The research I did for the model involved a lot of surgical photos and car crashes. It wasn't pleasant.
After that, looking at the model isn't so bad.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2023 03:39

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Chainclaw posted:

How do people get brushes into tiny places? I wanted to paint the gradient on the cockpit glass for these two mechs.

Something like that I usually start with the cockpit glass first, mash the colors in there the best I can and then touch up around it with some primer and paint on as normal.
I like to work from the inside, out, so to speak. Eyeballs, lower layers of clothing, etc. moving outward in layers.

# ¿ Feb 15, 2023 04:44

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

more terrain hexes

I really love your style. It reminds me of something that I cannot name.

# ¿ Feb 16, 2023 01:50

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

w00tmonger posted:

Anyone have air compressor recomendations? Working on some maintenance, but I slightly suspect my no name compressor is out paced by pretty much every other option

My Harbor Freight airbrush compressor has been going strong for nearly 10 years.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...-kit-95630.html

edit: just realized that it now comes with an airbrush. The airbrush is probably trash.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2023 03:39

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I'm not allowed to own any in the house lol

Apparently she says she's allergic to it, in other related smells chat, I don't mind the smell of tamiya cement or wd40

Permatex gasket sealer is also great.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2023 23:05

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Axetrain posted:

Xposting from the 40k thread for some criticism.

I used the Army painter speed paint for the red base coat and feel like it comes out a bit splotchy so I should probably tighten that up.

Try doing multiple thin coats of the stuff. That will help.
Speed Paint also like to bleed through, but if you use a little of the speed paint thinner (I forget what it's called) you can use white in between coats and it won't bleed and you can do another layer your speed paint color that will look like a highlight on top of the white white the surrounding non-white area gets darker.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2023 04:33

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Friend lent me an Infinity model, and I wanted to paint him like David in Edgerunners.

This yellow is incredibly frustrating. I hear there's an easier way to do this I should have done, right?

I painted my Imperial Fists like this:

1. Vallejo Red Oxide primer
2. White zenithal
3. Vallejo Transparent Yellow

Optional Steps:
4. Weathering with chips of brown and light yellow
5. Grim filter and mineral spirits

You do the yellow first and then fill in everything else.

Figure 1.1:

# ¿ Feb 20, 2023 21:30

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Is that...a dune dumper? Rare variant.

# ¿ Feb 21, 2023 14:37

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Wondermoose posted:

I did an ice giant.

Ew. His nipples are the same color as the rest of his flesh. Very disturbing.
(Just kidding, it looks amazing and the tartan is really good.)

# ¿ Feb 23, 2023 03:37

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

I need some hobby help here.

Is there a commercially available version of this green flock I've used on the base of this model?
The stuff I used it old, old Citadel basing flock (probably from the early 2000's) that I'm starting to run out of, but I like the way it looks on my Warmaster models.

It's got the feel of cork, but I'm not sure if it's close to anything woodland scenics makes or if there is something else out there.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2023 03:18

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

GreenBuckanneer posted:

got the new wave of imperium magazine in and I'm looking at the pile of grey Sisters and Tau I got in, and I want to paint them, and skip the building step. Anyone else feel that way? assembling models takes a bite out of your "painting energy" like, they're two separate activities?

By the time I get done building a set of models it is extremely unlikely I want to go immediately into painting them afterwards.

I like to use build time as a chance to reconnoiter the model - to really understand what is on it and what needs painting. It's also a good time to really think about the paint scheme I've chosen and if it still makes sense in my head. Usually I'll build one model completely, prime and paint it before building all the others so I can test out what works and doesn't before I assemble more of them. That might help slake your paint-lust.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2023 03:11

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Silhouette posted:

Man that 90s flesh wash still hasn't been replicated. It had this weird reddish yellowish dark brown finish that was perfect for skeletons.

Has anyone tried Coat d' Arms chestnut ink wash for this?

# ¿ Mar 2, 2023 01:11

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

hex bridge tiles for 10mm battles

This is the type of thing I aspire to, but also makes me want to quit.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2023 17:07

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

never give up never surrender

What are these tiles made out of?

The bridge I have, but the tiles themselves are MDF? The shoreline looks 3d printed.

Also, can you provide some insight your process on these 10mm figures?

I think you and I are using all of the same models, but I think what trips me up is I look at a unit of, for example, lizardmen and I think "I have to finish these," so I've been using contrast paints and just trying to get. it. done.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2023 05:08

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

well, firstly, contrast paints work really well at this scale. you shouldn't feel bad for using them. there's no differences in technique at 10mm vs 28mm ive found, just a need for higher quality brushes and finer control

the tiles are all printed in plastic. the details suffers when printed that way (that bridge looks soooo much nicer in resin) but i need the strength that plastic provides.

Basically the Dallimore method: extreme highlights between layers, minimum 3 layers and I think in your case, you're just really good at knowing where to lay the paint down on the highlights.

Anyway, keep posting at this scale, I need more reference pictures so I can get better.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2023 05:36

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

The base tile I made in blender. If you really want the flat blank tile, you can get it on my thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5894611
I get them printed in FDM once they're ready.

the hills i took from hex terrain set that's rattling around on thingiverse and just resized them for my purposes

Link doesn't work. 404 error.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2023 23:53

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

umm, try this one

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5903273

oh poo poo! I've been using your warmaster bases for my Forest Dragon minis for awhile now. Thank you for making them!

# ¿ Mar 11, 2023 15:41

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Another addition to my Warmaster Lizardmans army is complete.

Pretty much all contrast paints and they look good en masse.
I'm happy to be done with all these guys and moving on to dwarves.

# ¿ Mar 18, 2023 02:48

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Decorus posted:

Am I missing something really obvious in the process? I've seen some absolutely prefect flags and banners that were clearly painted on a similar molded surface. Is it just drawing talent and experience?

Thin your paints, multiple coats, steady hands. You got this. Don't rush it. You're doing great.

# ¿ Mar 19, 2023 00:27

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

A friend and I are starting a campaign of Peter Pig's AK-47 ruleset. Rather than use 15MM miniatures we decided to use GHQ's micro armor range. I went for a colonial power army with idea of the French Foreign Legion in Mali around 2014. This is the test piece for the army a Panhard VBL, penny for scale.

# ¿ Mar 25, 2023 17:37

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Eej posted:

An N95 is good enough to block particulate matter (ie aerosolized acrylic paint) but it does not have an activated carbon filter to block solvents (any organic solvents in a rattlecan). For that you want an R95, which is rated to last for 8 hours of continuous usage in blocking oil-based environments (ie spraying bad poo poo in the air) or a P95 which is rated for 40+ hours depending on manufacturer.

It's like 6 bucks for an individual R95 and a dollar for an N95 so if cost is an issue and you're just airbrushing you can get away with an N95 in a ventilated area but if you can afford it then an R95 that you use for a couple of sessions is probably best. General rule of thumb for when a ventilator you're using for fumes goes bad is when it gets hard to breathe (pores are clogged up) or you start smelling the fumes you're not supposed to smell (carbon filter is used up).

I would second getting a P95 mask. I keep one next to my painting table and where I store my spray paints so I remember to put it on when I'm doing my thing.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-53P71-Car...s_id=2257619011

The stealth is also a good alternative if you don't want big cartridges on the side of your face.
https://www.amazon.com/STEALTH-Resp...%2C2672&sr=1-24

# ¿ Mar 27, 2023 00:42

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I like goobertown sometimes but he's been weird on Twitter at times 🤔

Goobs gives me the god damned willies. Something about the way he stares into the camera and narrates everything just weirds me out.

That said, he seems like nice enough dude. I bet we could thug it out and paint together.

# ¿ May 11, 2023 23:55

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

I need some help.

I've got these old Juan Diaz daemonettes I scored for CHEAP and I'm trying to do them justice, but they just...I don't know.

I primed them white, hit them with some watered down Druchii Violet and then drybrushed with pallid wych flesh followed by filling in and smoothing with pallid wych flesh glaze. I just don't know what they need at this point. The flesh doesn't seem right.

Any creative ideas from the community?

It's like it needs a highlight of pure white or maybe a shade to take the edge off the white.

# ¿ May 12, 2023 01:40

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Under 15 posted:

Breaking into the painting phase of my new project - going to do a whole company of 1992-era blood angels.
This is inspired by SRM's ultramarines in the Oath thread (yeah I know that was years ago, whateva)

I've got all the metal and I'm 3d printing the plastic to make something people will fight over when I die.

Next step is decals!

Do you have a link to the plastic portions? I have a bunch of 2nd edition metal space marines that I don't have enough bolters, arms, and back packs for. I was going to mold my own in resin (gravity casting!) but 3d printing would be much more economical.

# ¿ May 19, 2023 02:30

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

Ropes4u posted:

I could also afford the Iwata Eclipse Hc-Cs Airbrush. I�m buying off Amazon unless someone can point me to a better source for an air brush and compressor

I will go to my grave saying that the Harbor Freight airbrush compressor is a good compressor. If you're in the US it is a steal at 89.99.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...-kit-95630.html

I've had mine for over 10 years and it is still going strong.

# ¿ May 23, 2023 02:31

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# ¿ May 21, 2024 17:36

Ez8: Aug 5, 2004

AndyElusive posted:

vroom vroom!

Really digging the Baron Samedi vibes this puts off.

# ¿ May 26, 2023 00:56

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