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PRESIDENT GOKU posted:EDIT: What is a less expensive alternative to the I used to work in an electrical engineering lab and stole many pairs of side cutters made to cut and strip wire. The ones Gale Force Nine make are a little pricey, but not 30 dollars, and they are actually very good, unlike the GW ones which nick up and become lovely after snipping a few metal models.
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Mar 17, 2015 02:25
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$30 diagonal wire cutters GW offers? Snap On makes tools that expensive.
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Fyrbrand posted:I actually really like the GW drybrushes. Overpriced, naturally, but they work well. Yeah, most of the new brush line is fine, overpriced but WAY better than the old ones. Its just that they arent better than other cheaper Kolinskys. The drybrushes are legit the best I have found though.
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Mar 18, 2015 02:14
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Here's the best pics I could get of my Crystal Brush entry in the case.  
JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 21, 2015 |
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Mar 21, 2015 18:10
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It's way bigger than 72mm. It's like 9 inches tall. The dwarf bust I entered and posted earlier in the thread didn't even make the first cut. Large Figure/Bust is a murderers row.
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Mar 22, 2015 22:18
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Ok so 6 inches. But it's also on like a 1-2 inch base. I agree it shouldn't have won but it's an amazing piece. The Internet voting not having scale shown means that lots of people probably voted for it thinking it was 54mm and rightfully so, at 54mm that would be the best model ever. Edit: I think I'm not cut out for competition painting. I was really proud of that dwarf but seeing the caliber f stuff entered and not even making the first "weed out the tabletop standard gamers" cut makes me embarassed I even entered. I feel like a kid entering his crayon drawings. JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Mar 23, 2015 |
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Mar 23, 2015 00:06
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krushgroove posted:Question for those of you that zenithal prime: do you do any edge highlighting at all? I'm working on these red Eldar and zenithal primed them but wonder if edging the armor with orange will help them 'pop'. It absolutely will. For my infinity stuff I follow the Angel Giraldez method which isn't exactly zenithal PRIMING but it is pretty close to that technique just with color. It looks really rough and bad when you get done with just the airbrushing steps, but then the darklining and edge highlighting makes it amazing and it takes like 5 minutes.
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Mar 24, 2015 17:18
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Super 3 posted:Unrelated question about zenithal priming. You can do it that way, yeah. You can also just paint normally and use the zenithal effect as a guide for your future layers, so you know where to highlight and shade. You may lose the brunt of the initial effect but a little will still show through, and even if it doesn't you still had the guide there. I like to do it largely becuase there might be months of me gaming with a model between priming and painting it, and zenithal primed models look pretty rad on their own.
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Mar 24, 2015 17:25
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Check either Angel Giraldez' facebook or Tom Schadle's blog (they use the same technique) and look for the tutorial on PanOceania blue armor. It's a super easy sort of zenithal technique for hard-armor infantry types that yields amazing results fast. \/\/ He's under Studio Giraldez JoshTheStampede fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Mar 24, 2015 |
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Mar 24, 2015 17:56
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Is there any One Weird Trick to two brush blending on larger surfaces? I'm trying to learn to hand blend stuff instead of easymoding with the airbrush all the time. It's pretty easy on small areas but larger ones come out blotchy.
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Mar 28, 2015 18:58
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TKIY posted:Painted the first miniature I've done in well over ten years, maybe fifteen. Metallic paint is fine to use - non-metallic metal techniques aren't for everyone, and by that I mean not everyone even likes how it looks, much less wants to deal with learning how to do it. Its just that metallic paints are a slightly different skillset if you want to do more than base it boltgun and wash it black. What you've done on the gun looks good as it is, if you didn't want to do any more, and the lenses on the scope are quite good. If you wanted to do like one more step, just take your original metal color and hit the top edges of the surfaces, where light would glint off. If you do that and it doesnt seem to have done anything, do it again with a brighter silver.
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Mar 29, 2015 00:06
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You need neither, really. You just need to use the edge of the brush rather than the point and hit it at such an angle that the surface does the work. If you try to paint with the point along the edge it'll never look straight and sharp.
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Mar 29, 2015 01:05
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Big Willy Style posted:I'm gonna be a gently caress head and go back to rimming and say that pure white or black for rims is bad. They are too stark and distract. Use a really dark grey or a light grey or blue I'd you have to. This is heresy. Black rim supremacy.
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Mar 29, 2015 01:40
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Arcturas posted:How do I figure out what color (and brand?) of paint I should be getting to do some real basic work as I try to learn how to paint? I'll be learning on a bunch of epic minis, meaning I'm not too fussed about too many highlights or details (the minis are small enough I suppose getting even a little of that going will be plenty, and at least at first I want to get a bunch of the basics done to practice how this works. I can simple green to redo if I want to improve quality). If it goes well I may pick up a squad of regular tactical marines and think about getting into real 40K instead of just buying epic stuff off ebay for cheap. You need more than one color of blue to paint properly but that doesn't mean you need to BUY more than one blue. You can easily add a touch of white to blue to make a highlight blue or a touch of black or purple to make a shade, etc. Over time that will cause all your blues to look the same but to start out you don't care. Add reaper to the list of potential paint companies. They make "triads" of colors that make it easy to pick out base-shade-highlight, but if you are just looking to buy a super duper starter set that is probably too much. Also, Vallejo Air is intended for airbrushing. Vallejo Model Color and Vallejo Game color are intended for brush work, and are also fine starter paints. Michaels doesn't carry any of the hobby paint brands (except maybe like testors enamels for model cars but you don't want those)
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Mar 29, 2015 05:42
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GMarshal posted:So I'm poo poo at painting. I just recently bought some Sternguard and would like for them to be less poo poo than my other models. Seeing as my current painting technique is best described as "throw some paint over black primer", what are some basic techniques to avoid having models I'm ashamed to bring out? I'm going with an iron hands colour scheme, and can include pictures if they'd be of any use, although seeing how bad I am, its kind of embarrassing. Can you be a little more specific about what exactly is bad about your models? Because what you have to do to make them not poo poo depends on why they are poo poo to begin with. The base-level advice almost everyone can benefit from is learn to thin paint, learn brush control, learn color theory, learn to push contrasts. Almost every other technique and advice will stem from those.
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Mar 30, 2015 22:54
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GMarshal posted:http://imgur.com/a/YevW3 Well, if you are content with the speed-to-quality ratio you have now, that's fine. I wouldn't laugh you off the table if you put those down against me or anything. That said, if you want to get better, here's a few things. The silver is a bit thick and gloopy, so practice thinning it and applying smoother coats. You can use a wash to bring out some details in the silver, too, so it doesn't look all one bland color. Practice painting inside the lines to avoid stuff being sloppy which it is in some places. All that stuff just comes with practice. Leaving the black as primer black is always going to look, well, flat and black. Black is hard to paint well, but you basically would highlight it with grey. There's a million ways to do it and which one works for you is just something you have to practice to discover. Edge highlighting is fairly easy and popular for space marines because the armor lends itself well to it. Drybrushing can also work for fast marines. Basically, they look unfinished because you are doing one basecoat and calling it done. Look up some tutorials on washing and drybrushing and edge highlighting, those are very simple techniques that can add a lot to a mini.
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Mar 30, 2015 23:20
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Darren MacLennan posted:All excellent advice. For the moment, I'm going to work on just getting the trick of blending down; once I've got that, I can go back and start working with where light falls. Thanks, all! For what it's worth, straight neutral black to white is generally considered the hardest blend to do. Something about colors makes it easier, so maybe try a sepia tone rather than mid-grey unless you are intentionally trying to learn on Hard Mode.
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Apr 2, 2015 15:30
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Signal posted:What do you use Raw Sienna for? It's a brown that isn't as red/orange as burnt umber. Van Dyke Brown is another popular one.
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Apr 2, 2015 23:23
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There's zero issue using Future in an airbrush. I and thousands of others do it all the time, it's functionally identical to spraying Vallejo gloss varnish or Liquitex or whatever else. Ive tried every easily available in the US brand of gloss varnish on the market and I use Future because it performs the best. Cleaning your brush with windex instead of Official Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner is also fine.
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Apr 2, 2015 23:39
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Hollismason posted:It can damage your airbrush if you don't know what you are doing or use the wrong product. Varnishes especially can turn your airbrush into a useless brick if you use the wrong type and do not clean it out properly. Yes, and Future will do that exactly as easily as Vallejo varnish. If you don't know how to clean your brush you don't know how to clean your brush, the Vallejo name on the bottle won't change that.
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Apr 2, 2015 23:46
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spacegoat posted:I was worried that I'd been making a critical mistake with my airbrush until I got halfway through that post and realised who it was. It's not an uncommon position to have though. People get all huffy about using COMMON HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS when we should be using REAL ART SUPPLIES or whatever. The woman who formulates Reaper paint somewhat infamously hates Future and refuses to "make her paint play nice with your floor wax" but whatever. There's no such thing as "airbrush varnish", it doesn't have different ingredients in it, its just varnish that is thin enough to blow through a brush and can be cleaned the same way you clean anything else acrylic and water-based. For the record, "I use it because its better, not because it's cheaper" also applies to Windex. I started out using brand-name airbrush cleaner and it sucked, Windex works a lot better for cleaning.
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Apr 3, 2015 00:07
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Bad Munki posted:Guys I wanted to do some special effects so I tried to airbrush some quikrete onto some minis but now my airbrush doesn't seem to be working. The needle seemed a bit stuck so I put some vice grips on it to try to loosen it up, doesn't seem to have helped. I also tried cleaning it with bleach and ammonia, but that didn't help and I'm not feeling so hot this evening so I think I'm just going to go lie down, but do you have any recommendations for what to do next? Was it Army Painter Quikrete? If not there's your problem.
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Apr 3, 2015 00:13
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I don't spray stuff that contains chemicals I don't know about through my airbrush, unlike all the paint whose exact chemical composition I am of course aware of. Edit: for a second I thought Chip That poo poo was a product name and I got really excited.
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Apr 3, 2015 03:48
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Me practicing/learning two-brush-blending with shading: Oh, this isnt so bad, kinda just works, pretty easy. Me practicing/learning two-brush-blending with highlights: gently caress THIS I VILL KILL EVERYONE IN ZE VORLD I fixed it with some midtone glazes but seriously it's like a thousand times harder
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Apr 3, 2015 20:38
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El Estrago Bonito posted:My friend once termed it "the AK47 of Airbrushes" which is probably a good idea of what it's capable of. I say this about the Badger Patriot all the time. That thing is a loving juggernaut.
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Apr 4, 2015 05:45
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enri posted:Does anyone know of a good match for the old citadel foundation khemri brown? I'm looking for something with a similarly thick consistency too as they feel better for drybrushing that way (which is primarily what I want it for) VGC Earth is supposedly the replacement for Graveyard Earth but it looks a lot more like Khemri to me.
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Apr 5, 2015 23:31
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Someone in this thread had vertical wall-mounted nail polish racks for paint. Can that person tell me where to get them? I'm trying to find either pegboard-compatible or wall mountable storage solutions for like ~200 paints and paint accessories. Right now I have a mishmash of rotating lazy Susan things and spice rack stadium-step style things and it's kind of a mess.
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Apr 6, 2015 23:29
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El Estrago Bonito posted:This guy does some great stuff, a bit of what he does is really dependent on how fine he can get with his 300 dollar airbrush but not that much. This is also I think the ONLY good video tutorial that exists for shading with pigments (there is one from MWG IIRC but it's loving awful and looks like poo poo). It's also a great intro into new painters trying to break out of the GW mold where you only shade a color with the darker version of that color: The Les Bursely/Awesomepaintjob video about Avatar Seamus from Malifaux also uses pigment for flesh shading. Same pigment, even.
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Apr 10, 2015 15:44
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SERPUS posted:Is there a Citadel match for PP Coal Black, or is this something I'll have to mix up? Incubi Darkness is probably closest but I don't think its exactly right. You may have to mix it with black.
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Apr 13, 2015 01:14
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So, I have grown frustrated with Liquitex Matte Medium for a couple of reasons. I started using it after Les Bursely recommended it (mixed with water and flow improver) for pretty much everything: thinning paint, airbrush thinner, washes, etc etc. However, Liquitex matte medium in particular has a few qualities that I am starting to hate. One, it's white until dry, which makes it hard to gauge colors as you mix them, especially for washes. Two, it clogs the tip of any bottle I put it in, every time, and three it settles out and forms a thick layer of white goo on the bottom that needs stirred heavily if you let it sit for like a day. I've been using Lahmian Medium from GW which is pretty much perfect but I would rather not pay GW prices for something I use all the time. Anyone have a recommendation for a painting medium other than straight water that is clear, doesn't clog squeeze bottles and doesnt need more than prefunctory shaking? Edit: matteness isn't super important, so long as it isn't super mega glossy, which is why I am not using thinned Future for all my painting needs.
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Apr 13, 2015 04:56
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Hollismason posted:Yeah, I'd seen the stuff in regards to washes. The main reason I wanted to try oils was that from what I've read blending something I'm not good at is easier with them or at least different. Blending oils is definitely easier. With acrylics, you're either not really blending and just making an illusion, or you're racing the clock. Oils stay wet for hours or days so you can actually blend the paints on the model without the fast super mario music playing. Get a couple oil paints and play around with them on a piece of primed plasticard or a spare model with a good surface, it really is intuitive and easy, it's just not great for tiny details and the drying time really is a bitch if it was the only paint you used. I did the face of the dwarf bust I posted a few pages back in oils and it was great, I got subtle blends I would not have been capable of with acrylics, and if I WAS capable of it they would have taken hours upon hours, with oils the face was done in one session and mistakes were easy to fix.
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Apr 13, 2015 05:01
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I post too many words and not enough pictures so here's what I finished tonight. I'm a good painter and a bad photographer.   
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Apr 14, 2015 04:25
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SRM posted:What's this guy from? I love him. The muted grey goes really well with the more vibrant blue and yellow, the lenses are gorgeous, and he just looks so drat grumpy. Relic Knights. He's a Librarian, a guardian construct for the Doctrine, the space-Harry-Potter-anime-magical-school faction.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:52
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signalnoise posted:Question to painters better than myself I also have around 200 paints. I have a full set of Minitaire, and a lot of Reaper and P3, a fair handful of Vallejo Model Color and Vallejo Game Color, the vallejo Air Metallics, and the GW shades and glazes. I just take what I like from every line.
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Apr 14, 2015 17:00
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Companies are bad about terminology so what it says on the bottle may or may not be what it is, but here's what the words actually mean. Acrylic medium is colorless paint. That is, it is everything paint is without the pigment. So adding it to your paint will make it less pigmented and thus more transparent, without majorly changing the consistency. Flow improver is an additive that breaks the surface tension and prevents liquids from beading up, making things flow more freely. People have been using liquid soap and Future as this forever, in addition to purpose made artists flow improvers. Medium being whitish isn't pigment, it's just the color of the goop, and it should dry clear and not shift the paint color.
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Apr 14, 2015 19:49
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Who makes the best yellow that doesn't suck? Not like an ochre but a true primary yellow. My old Sunburst has given up the ghost and my old Golden Yellow is almost gone.
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Apr 16, 2015 00:36
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El Estrago Bonito posted:This is actually what you want from yellow and red paints. I mean, sort of. You don't want it to be thick but you also don't want to have to do 20 layers over white to get something that doesn't look blotchy and streaky. Good coverage in a bright yellow is hard to find. I feel like the codes for red and white have been cracked for a couple years but yellow is still a loving bitch all the time.
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Apr 16, 2015 05:54
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The ghost tints are also hella saturated and not subtle at all. I would maybe just tone it down with a glaze via brush. But lining and edge highlighting will make it look a lot cleaner just by itself so you may find you don't even need to tone it down after that.
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Apr 18, 2015 23:03
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Jooooooooooooooooan   
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Apr 22, 2015 04:04
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Omar al-Bishie posted:Well dang. I tried using it as a way to hold the model's bits together and figured after fifteen minutes I did it wrong. Guess I'll let it sit overnight! If its the only thing holding stuff together it won't hold, it'll just fall apart when it dries. It's great for adding strength to a glued join or filling in a gap around one, but it isn't itself adhesive at all when dry.
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Apr 22, 2015 04:21
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jodai posted:That's really amazing. You really brought out a lot of personality in that model. I want to, I just have to justify slapping down 50-100 bucks for a nice one when I have a ton of other awesome stuff to paint. I am really enjoying the new Infinity sculpts like this one, I have Relic Knights which are a different beast, and I want to try a chibi something or other. But yeah, I definitely want to do more large-scale stuff, it's a really interesting change of pace from 32mm all day. I keep seeing dwarf busts I want to paint, I really didn't know I had a thing for painting dwarves until I painted that last one.
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Apr 22, 2015 04:48
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