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JerryLee posted:It still amazes me that in a paint range shift that was apparently motivated mostly by their wanting to rename everything for trademark reasons (possibly the earliest major manifestation of the phenomenon that would later metastasize into the Wyrd Sa'lyd of AoS), they somehow managed to take a poo poo on the paints themselves. Like, there was no reason to change the stuff in the pots if it was working. This was only part of the reason. They were changing manufacturers of the paint anyway for contract reasons and could no longer guarantee the colors would be exactly the same. So they had to change names anyway lest people lose their poo poo when Blood Red was one shade odd. They just took that opportunity to make trademarkable names so we got Incubi Darkness and Naggaroth Night and XV-88.
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Apr 5, 2016 03:45
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Bones do have trouble taking paint sometimes. If you prime them they are fine...assuming your primer works. Bones reacts poorly to some primers. Bones is kinda more trouble than it's worth for the savings, as large as they are.
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Apr 6, 2016 01:00
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sassassin posted:Who makes the best metallics now? Looking for a dull brownish metallic bronze/brass. None of this garish yellowy nonsense tia. Scale75 by a country mile. Vallejo Model Air makes great silvers but trash golds.
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Apr 13, 2016 18:30
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Serenade posted:I've been scooping up models on ebay I intend to paint and rebase. The OP has good information on stripping paint, but some of these resin and metal models are glued to the base. Is there a magic chemical I can use to separate them, or do I need to destroy the base? Worst case is a Deathripper which has been detached from the base in shipping, except for a single toe. Assuming its superglue, you can put the model in the freezer and it will weaken the bond and often let you snap it cleanly off. It's not perfect though and leaves a fair amount of glue residue to scrape/clean off, but if you're already planning to do a bunch of work to restore these models it's not much more.
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Apr 16, 2016 20:31
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KPC_Mammon posted:
Yeah if you are flooding the model the issue is too much paint on your brush, not too thin. But you know that now. The literal advice I have heard from pros regarding wet blending in dry climates "don't, but if you must then buy some drying retarder".
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Apr 19, 2016 04:54
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sassassin posted:Scale 75 paints are all a few shades lighter than advertised.They're the colour you would buy if you wanted to highlight the colour on the label. I have not found this to be the case with the blue-greys or the yellow-browns at least.
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Apr 19, 2016 23:27
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JesusIsTehCool posted:Thanks for the advice, I was thinking Black Friday/Cyber Monday. I would not consider myself very experienced but if the only draw back to the Krome is cost they extra $50 isn't a huge issue. Is it more difficult to use? The Krome and the Sotar are the exact same brush internally, it's just a different casing that feels a bit different in your hand. So any problems you have with the sotar you'll probably have with the Krome. The Patriot is the easy to use, easy to clean workhorse brush of the gods.
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Nov 23, 2016 03:21
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Most of the compressors on Amazon are relabeled Master TC series, and I have one of those. I run it a lot and unless someone is in the same room with me they can't hear it. It's less loud than my air conditioner.
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Nov 27, 2016 05:32
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signalnoise posted:Does this do the kinda shrink to fit trick that VSP does? I notice it's urethane based, and that's like the #1 thing I love about VSP. A little bit, yeah. It also doesn't have the weird plasticky feel that VSP gets. When I used VSP, everything was great as long as I didn't have to scrape or sand anything afterwards, if I did whole sections would peel off like rubber.
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Dec 5, 2016 03:22
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Frobbe posted:I've just bought 3 bottles of Vallejo Surface primer, U.K. Bronze Grey, U.S. Olive Drab and Ger. Dark Yellow. I've been told before that these aren't "real" primers, but they say the exact same as my white and black Vallejo Surface primer. When people say it isn't real primer they mean it's not an etching primer that eats into the substrate like automotive primers do. It will work just fine for minis.
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Dec 28, 2016 18:23
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GW brushes are overpriced but they aren't trash. They're perfectly fine.
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Jan 15, 2017 02:29
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I'd skip stuff like color theory in a rank-beginners hands-on class. That's important but you can learn it without a brush in your hand. Brush care, paint thinning, even coverage, basic layering, washing, drybrushing. Those are things sometimes people need to be shown by example and not just told, so take advantage of having them in person.
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Jan 15, 2017 04:06
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And if your problem is the paint flooding off the brush, it's not that the paint is too thin, it's that you have too much in your brush.
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Jan 15, 2017 04:40
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Whenever people put stuff on a base and don't paint it, it looks wrong to me. It looks like aquarium toys. Get some Vallejo Black Lava or Dark Earth paste. It doesn't get easier than one layer of goop on a base before priming.
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Jan 16, 2017 02:47
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fozzy fosbourne posted:Does anyone use the Vallejo Brown Earth or Dark Earth for basing? Any particular paint recommendations for matching the base color, shading, and dry brushing either of those two textured gel things? Any pictures? I use Dark Earth sometimes, for very fine grain earths like sand or concrete. Black Lava is coarser and at 28mm scale looks like gravel or rocky ground or really churned up earth. I tend to use them before priming though, so I just paint them normally.
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Feb 10, 2017 21:47
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goodness posted:What's a good line of kingdom Death sized minis ? Doesn't have to be tied to a game, just looking for cool models to paint Newer Infinity models are also around that size. Stuff is creeping upwards, it's actually pretty hard to find true 28mm models anymore.
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Feb 11, 2017 17:35
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mango sentinel posted:Scale labels are mostly bullshit and arbitrary outside of train sets, but Kingdom Death itself 35mm which makes 32mm stuff like Malifaux look a little off. Infinity seems to be big for calling itself 28mm but I think would still come up short on KD. Yeah, prior to them switching to digital sculpting they were pretty true 28mm, but they made an explicit intentional decision to make them larger as well when they switched to digital. Arena Rex models vary, because some dudes are actually like seven foot tall monsters, but they are reasonably close to 32mm usually.
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Feb 12, 2017 01:52
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It should also be noted that yellow is kinda hard. So extra don't feel bad.
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Feb 20, 2017 03:02
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Wirth1000 posted:
The GW house style is intentionally simple and easy to do. Not to say the painters aren't talented, but getting to GW studio level is really just practice. I promise you that unless you have some medical-grade hand tremors or an inability to learn fine motor skills, you can paint like 90% as well as them in less than a year.
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Feb 20, 2017 03:51
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Wyrmwood games also makes a fancy wooden padded case designed to carry exactly one miniature, if you really want to spend too much money on it.
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Feb 20, 2017 19:25
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Are there any non-GW products equivalent to Lamenters Yellow? Any yellow ink thinned with water or medium should be similar.
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Jul 5, 2017 16:15
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bonds0097 posted:Jesus, get a regulator. 80 psi is insane. 20 is good for priming and basecoats usually and I go 10 or below for anything detail-like. Yeah, I will crank it to 40 to blow through a clog or clean it, or if I'm stubbornly trying to spray thick primer without thinning, but even that is too much.
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Jul 12, 2017 16:12
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Zark the Damned posted:Will you be glossing up the entrails etc later? Jeez, buy him a drink first at least.
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Jul 24, 2017 16:25
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Shadin posted:What amazes me is I'm not even really careful with the stuff. I usually set it to 20 PSI and just go to town. Seems to be really forgiving, as long as you don't just go balls out crazy and let it get so thick it's pooling I've never had it clog details yet. Yeah it's completely idiot proof. I practically drown models in it and they always come out perfect.
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Jul 24, 2017 18:08
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If you're trying to do white over black, just skip the trouble and punch yourself directly in the dick instead. Failing that, remember two things: A few coats of progressively lighter greys will work up to white a lot faster than coat after coat of white, and also white stuff in the world isn't always (or really ever) pure bright white anyway.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:37
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Work continues apace on The Saddest Bust:
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Sep 27, 2017 04:20
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Yeah, the first key is fast. The slower you go, the more wobble there'll be in your line. The second key is to accept that your line won't be perfect, and you can touch it up/sharpen it by using the other base color.
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Oct 4, 2017 18:37
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Mugaaz posted:I'll try the speed thing. Are you sure there isn't some sort of pencil that can be used to create perfectly uniform width lines? You could mask off the area with artists tape and get a perfect line, but its probably more trouble than its worth. You can also use a micron pen if you think it's more accurate or easier to handle than a brush.
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Oct 4, 2017 19:23
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FromTheShire posted:Does anyone have experience with using GW's orange wash? I'm doing some Cult of the Rusted Claw GSC, going for a very bright, construction worker look, so I started with Troll Slayer rather than Jokaero which looked pretty good on my Magus, but after washing him with Agrax Earthshade like Duncan had done in his videos, I feel like it doesn't look right in the creases and made brightening it back up more work than need be. I feel like the logical answer is to use an orange wash instead, but figured it was worth asking first. Yep, I use it a lot. Its a weirdly bright but also dark wash, if that makes sense. Its like if you took their Sepia and turned the color knob up on it. I use it on red haired dwarfs and stuff all the time. You might try Sepia or Fleshshade, alternately.
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Oct 5, 2017 18:36
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So, it's hard to t ell much from that picture, ,but in general when I am doing fast army painting, I prefer to basecoat, highlight, and then highlight TOO MUCH, and then wash. You don't need to rebasecoat avfter that, and just a small highlight over the wash will often look really good. Keep in mind though, that there's very little "supposed to" in painting. Honestly, if you are thinning your paint to not get brushstrokes, anything beyond that is just do what looks good. Experiment a little.
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Oct 5, 2017 18:43
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Phi230 posted:Well mostly I'm concerned with why the wash settled in such a way as to make very very large dark spots, so that I didn't have much free room to actually highlight. Imagine a light coming down on the model from above. Or, if you don't want to imagine, shine a flashlight or whatever on the model from above and take a picture of it. Highlight where the light would hit.
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Oct 5, 2017 18:51
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If you don’t mind painting them the Vallejo ones (dark earth, black lava, red oxide, etc) are a lot cheaper. I’m certainly not gonna glue sand anymore.
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Oct 11, 2017 03:01
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, then what about reaper’s “liner” line of paints? Wtf is even going on there? Because they sell washes as a separate thing like everyone else. Reaper's Liners are extremely dark paints packed with extra flow improver, designed to be able to draw thin lines and/or paint directly into recesses and between panel lines and things like that. You aren't meant to wash them over the surface, you're meant to use them to, well, line things. They work great, btw. I have and use all three with regularity.
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Mar 12, 2018 16:46
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