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HardCoil posted:Ok, that reference went over my head :-/ Sgt Nick Angel, played by Simon Pegg, is the main character of the movie Hot Fuzz. The Hasslefree mini linked is based on him.
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Feb 7, 2017 20:39
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FromTheShire posted:I saw a couple images of people using the Ghost Tints that looked pretty nice, how much of a difference does it make if you were to try and brush something like that on instead of airbrushing it? Figures people have had problems with them and Vallejo since that's what I'm using. Ghost tints blot well, but don't go on smoothly with a brush. I use it to quickly do bloody stuff by painting a whole mini pink and then putting ghost tint Fresh Blood in the recesses.  Finished off with bone on the edges it's a very quick and effective paint job for tabletop standards.
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Feb 7, 2017 22:09
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grassy gnoll posted:Here's a post exposing the depth of my ignorance, but I never thought to line the eye, but it makes a hell of a lot of sense at 28mm scale. Usually what I do is paint the eye a medium grey (like for instance Reaper Concrete Grey or Vallejo London Grey) then hit the entire eye/socket with black wash and then go over the "body" of the eye with white or an extremely light grey. For actual make-up make-up I tend to use spot application of washes since honestly 28mm is way to small for makeup unless you exaggerate the hell out of it. Unfortunately the only halfway OK example I have of a mini I've done actual makeup on is this Dark Eldar fig that I'm not super happy with:  The other thing you can do which I have seen done to OK success is to actually make a hole in the miniature for the pupil with the tip of a sewing needle or pin and then paint the entire eye white and use a very small amount of low surface tension ink (like magic wash) to get black to flow into just the hole.
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Feb 8, 2017 10:28
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I tend to let washes do the work for me. Paint and wash the face of the model like you normally would and finely paint white for the eyes. I sometimes just leave it at that, since it looks good enough. Otherwise, you'll have to trust your hand to dot it with a smidgen of black paint. If the eyes are larger, though, giving them a thin wash of red or deep pink gives a more realistic look to it. (as in, more like your own, squinty, blood shot eyes  )
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Feb 8, 2017 10:47
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Thanks for the comments everyone!  Miles O'Brian posted:This is super rad. What kinda colours you using on this one? The brass, rust, guts and verdigris all look badass. The rust and verdigris is actually quite easy - it's Modelmates/Dirty Down effects liquids with some wash passes. Modelmates comes in 18/50ml bottles but quite hard to find now as they stopped trading, but the same formula can be found in Dirty Down's 250ml bottles. Brass was: 50/50 black/warplock bronze warplock bronze 50/50 warplock bronze/hashut copper hashut copper With a couple of sepia and brown washes, followed by bringing it back up a bit again with just hashut copper where it would be brighter, a few spots of violet wash, sepia again and then an edge highlight of hashut. Guts were just reds and crimsons and violet and red washes until it ended up looking right, followed by a gloss. I had them as quite a mix of colours at one point including snotty greens but it didn't read too well.
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Feb 8, 2017 13:50
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Got that scenic base almost finished, haven't decided for sure if it'll be fore the nurgle lord or if I'll save it for something else later.
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Feb 9, 2017 00:32
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drat. We're going to need you to do, like, a tutorial or something. That's awesome.
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Feb 9, 2017 02:01
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JackMann posted:drat. We're going to need you to do, like, a tutorial or something. That's awesome. Almost everything I've learned has been from Massive Voodoo, so check those guys out!
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Feb 10, 2017 09:24
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Does anyone use the Vallejo Brown Earth or Dark Earth for basing? Any particular paint recommendations for matching the base color, shading, and dry brushing either of those two textured gel things? Any pictures? Sort of related, anyone have any go-to basing guides or recipes for something that looks a bit like a humid forest trail? I'm thinking dark earth that's almost mud, lush green flock, and the occasional wet stone or log. Would need to be fast enough to practically base dozens of models with, not just a scenic base for one model.
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Feb 10, 2017 18:51
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This thing is from the rebels cartoon. It's very fast in the game. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 20:42
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fozzy fosbourne posted:Does anyone use the Vallejo Brown Earth or Dark Earth for basing? Any particular paint recommendations for matching the base color, shading, and dry brushing either of those two textured gel things? Any pictures? I use Dark Earth sometimes, for very fine grain earths like sand or concrete. Black Lava is coarser and at 28mm scale looks like gravel or rocky ground or really churned up earth. I tend to use them before priming though, so I just paint them normally.
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Feb 10, 2017 21:47
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God i love oil paints. Just highlighted the grey on fourteen turrets and two lasers in a single sitting. Nothing required more than one pass, no mixing of intermediaries, just feathering.
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Feb 10, 2017 22:11
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Chill la Chill posted:This thing is from the rebels cartoon. It's very fast in the game. its so colorful!
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Feb 10, 2017 23:09
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I got a reaper pathfinder mini as a Christmas present, but am far too busy to paint it myself. Any local NYC goons (or USA) taking commissions? Looking for a D&D Dark Sun paint job that is going to really impress my group. This is just for one model for now, but there may be other projects that can result from this. https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Pathfinder/latest/60113
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Feb 11, 2017 03:35
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What's a good line of kingdom Death sized minis ? Doesn't have to be tied to a game, just looking for cool models to paint
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Feb 11, 2017 08:19
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goodness posted:What's a good line of kingdom Death sized minis ? Doesn't have to be tied to a game, just looking for cool models to paint Enigma, Rackham, Wyrd Through the Breach figures and maybe a few of the more poorly scaled Malifaux models.
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Feb 11, 2017 08:41
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goodness posted:What's a good line of kingdom Death sized minis ? Doesn't have to be tied to a game, just looking for cool models to paint Newer Infinity models are also around that size. Stuff is creeping upwards, it's actually pretty hard to find true 28mm models anymore.
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Feb 11, 2017 17:35
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goodness posted:What's a good line of kingdom Death sized minis ? Doesn't have to be tied to a game, just looking for cool models to paint Anima if you can find them
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Feb 11, 2017 19:23
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JoshTheStampede posted:Newer Infinity models are also around that size. Stuff is creeping upwards, it's actually pretty hard to find true 28mm models anymore. Scale labels are mostly bullshit and arbitrary outside of train sets, but Kingdom Death itself 35mm which makes 32mm stuff like Malifaux look a little off. Infinity seems to be big for calling itself 28mm but I think would still come up short on KD. I think Arena Rex calls itself 35mm as well but I haven't seen a side by side.
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Feb 11, 2017 21:39
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mango sentinel posted:Infinity seems to be big for calling itself 28mm
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Feb 11, 2017 22:37
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mango sentinel posted:ff. Infinity seems to be big for calling itself 28mm but I think would still come up short on KD. It seems like most sculptors in the industry in general seem to be moving away from 100x Gravity Stand/Super Squats, so that could be it.
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Feb 11, 2017 22:40
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mango sentinel posted:Scale labels are mostly bullshit and arbitrary outside of train sets, but Kingdom Death itself 35mm which makes 32mm stuff like Malifaux look a little off. Infinity seems to be big for calling itself 28mm but I think would still come up short on KD. Yeah, prior to them switching to digital sculpting they were pretty true 28mm, but they made an explicit intentional decision to make them larger as well when they switched to digital. Arena Rex models vary, because some dudes are actually like seven foot tall monsters, but they are reasonably close to 32mm usually.
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Feb 12, 2017 01:52
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The pictures I took were too big of resolution to post a direct image in the thread but here are somethings that I am working on. I haven't painted a model since the early 2000s when I painted some Mage Knight Steam Golems because I refused to play a miniature game that one coudln't customize. Stormboyz to help out my boyz and grots in Kill Team games http://imgur.com/a/DiiJ7 Took the Space Marines that came with the Kill Team box, and a few extra mans, and made them up Crimson Fist style http://imgur.com/a/tf6yX I found it very funny that the Crimson Fists are called Space Mexicans so I took that idea and had some fun with it http://imgur.com/a/XXCuy Here are some of those Mage Knight figures (Technomancer and Steam Goelm) and a Ral Partha Raistilin D&D figure on a Scrye life counter by Reaper Minatures. I bought the Scrye counter in like 1996 range and never remembered them as a company. I really thought Reaper was just as new as when those Bone figures came out a few years back. http://imgur.com/a/OVMkU looks like I need to thin my paints in the past and the present. Fun hobby, been having fun picking colors and plotting what to paint next. Some time I will get around to playing Kill Team. I need to wait for the weather to get better to gloss and matte them; plenty of time to figure out what kind of basing I want to do for the Crimson Fist. I am thinking something modern with rubble. I am thinking of taking styrofoam, sticking some bits of wire in it, and painting them up to look like broken concrete with exposed rebar.
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Feb 12, 2017 04:54
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Been in a bit of painting funk recently , but I got back in the swing with Infinity miniatures. They were quite a fun little departure from my usual 40k dominated painting sessions. Here are the pics and as always any constructive criticism is welcome. FYI I've already fixed the chipped areas in the photographs below.
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Feb 12, 2017 21:50
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These are lookin' good!
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Feb 13, 2017 06:54
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 If anyone has any models from Smartmax's SMOG line, please PM me - I'm interested in buying them! Preferably bare resin or primed
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Feb 13, 2017 15:40
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Does anyone have experience with using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water to create pools of toxic waste? I wanted to add a couple pools of it to my AdMech bases, but so far my attempts are...bad. I tinted the water a lime green with food coloring, then in the pool did a base coat of dark green with a bright green edge coat. It looks great for a deep pool, but it's not exactly the "pools of toxic rain" I was looking for. Should I just mix the Realistic Water with Moot Green and create a solid pool? I imagine depth doesn't need to be apparent in a pool of liquid you can't see through.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:33
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Does any one have a recommendation for good glue to use with resin, specifically GW finecast. All advice just says superglue but when I've used Locite on resin in the past it takes a loving age to dry and hold, and yes all release agent has been cleaned off. Thanks. big_g fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Feb 13, 2017 |
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Feb 13, 2017 20:36
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Zuul the Cat posted:Does anyone have experience with using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water to create pools of toxic waste? Try using inks. Experiment a bit with it, but you can get some decently grody effects with it.
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Feb 13, 2017 20:39
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big_g posted:Does any one have a recommendation for good glue to use with resin, specifically GW finecast. Gorilla glue always works well for me But really any superglue, maybe your loctite was just old and bad?
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Feb 13, 2017 20:51
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Skarsnik posted:Gorilla glue always works well for me Thanks I'll try that! The locite was fine I presume as works fine on other materials.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:06
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It took what felt like forever, but I've painted up my first Crusader squad:      
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Feb 13, 2017 21:28
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big_g posted:Does any one have a recommendation for good glue to use with resin, specifically GW finecast. Loctite PowerFlex is what I use. Zuul the Cat posted:Does anyone have experience with using Woodland Scenics Realistic Water to create pools of toxic waste? Depends if you want a neon green toxic or something murkier. I did the below with 2-part epoxy (basically realistic water) on top of a painted crater already with the green. Then when it dried I wash the recesses, then poured a green paint mixed with gloss medium, and as it was drying I swirled in some orange pigment. Then another two layers of epoxy on top of that. 3T Studios used to have a good tutorial but their site seems to be gone... 
ijyt fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Feb 13, 2017 |
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Feb 13, 2017 21:46
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That templar squad is way cool. Is Chaos Black spray decent as a primer? I want to try a black basecoat for some minis and the GW store is the only minis store in my city
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Feb 13, 2017 21:51
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ijyt posted:Loctite PowerFlex is what I use. This looks great. This is slightly what mine looks like (i'll take a picture of it later.) I couldn't decide if I want it like this or like a radioactive man neon green. How did you build up around it to create the pool? I've been using martian ironearth, building up a slight wall, then sealing the rim and base with glue.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:57
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Yup, just a whole bunch of stirland mud poked around to make the rim with a flat tool. For larger craters I'd use wedges of insulation foam, layered with wood filler then coated in sand and gravel. For smaller craters I find the GW texture paints to be a good but expensive option - I'd probably just mix paint with sand and glue if I were doing more of them.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:06
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Ayn Marx posted:That templar squad is way cool. Thanks! Honestly, the GW sprays are really overpriced unless you're trying to go for a 1:1 color match by using Macragge Blue spray or whatever. You could just go to a hardware or auto parts store and get some black spray primer. I use Krylon almost exclusively. After priming, you can paint it with a watered down black to get the finish you want and then work from there. My Templars were just Krylon spray, then a coat of P3 black, and then I painted them from there.
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Feb 13, 2017 22:08
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Ah, cool. Don't know if we have Krylon in Germany but the local supermarket has a large selection of auto spray paints for some reason, I'll check it out
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Feb 13, 2017 22:14
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ijyt posted:
These ones? https://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/miniatures/smart-max/smog
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Feb 14, 2017 02:26
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I built a thing for my paints. Got sick of using the nail varnish racks and was too skint to shell out for a laser cut MDF one. 2 hours and 1 sheet of foamcore later. Painted some Zombicide figures. Sculpting quality was decent but cleaning the moldlines was a pain.     
Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Feb 14, 2017 |
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Feb 14, 2017 03:16
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