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You really need some photos of models in this thread.
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Mar 11, 2015 15:42
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Fyrbrand posted:Cool I'll be the guy to immediately follow a bunch of amazing models with my own weak sauce I like this scheme way better than the stock one; I'll be sure to save it for when I paint mine (est. never).
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Mar 11, 2015 16:36
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I guess I should have put up or shutted up.          
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Mar 11, 2015 17:01
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Simple green won't melt plastic at any concentration. It barely eats paint.
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Mar 22, 2015 03:14
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What scale is Captain Bond? 72mm?
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Mar 22, 2015 21:55
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So 1/6th scale like a GI Joe? It doesn't seem as impressive then. It almost feels like it should be in a different competition.
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Mar 22, 2015 22:43
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That's the best Mashaaf yet. Makes me wish I had one.
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Mar 25, 2015 05:51
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Converted a set of deathmarks from an old set of Warriors, and used it as a tester for my eventual Black Legion scheme. Kinda wish that I started with black Necrons to start with; I quite like it.  I'm still not happy with how my bases look. I just can't seem to get it right.
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Mar 27, 2015 14:24
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Paint it red?
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Mar 31, 2015 15:27
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I would never spray a chemical through my airbrush!
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Apr 3, 2015 02:48
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I won something like this at Nova 2012: It came with a bunch of Series 7's. It's pretty useful and you should be able to find one at an art store.
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Apr 6, 2015 19:29
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Paint the big rocks a dark grey with a light grey drybrush, they'll stick out less. Dead dude is fine to me.
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Apr 12, 2015 03:57
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I think this is my best airbrush gradient to date: The staff of light head is a little too harsh, and I think cleaning it up with a green filter and an edge highlight of white will do the trick. Maybe I'll try out the green ghost tint?
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Apr 18, 2015 16:24
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I would probably only airbrush one color and do brushwork with the other. Check out BuyPainted's Youtube channel as it features lots of airbrushing multiple colors.
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Apr 22, 2015 21:51
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Shachi posted:Will do. What do you think? Prioritize the white since it would be hard to paint over the burgundy without a shitton of layers? I've watched a lot of what ScnusserfaceMinis has done with his stuff but mainly airbrushes and masks. I feel like it might not be worth the effort to do all that masking and still end up with overspray on such a small fig. Also at my current ability airbrushing takes longer anyways. I would probably do the white on both the white and purple sections, and use the shading as a base for the purple.
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Apr 22, 2015 22:06
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Wire cutters should work. Strong rods will ruin your side cutters.
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Apr 23, 2015 04:36
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krushgroove posted:Sorry to be the bearer of bad news: http://warhammerworld.games-workshop.com/citadel-miniatures-hall/ I really regret not going when I was in London in 2013 now.
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Apr 27, 2015 18:29
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I think reports say the artificer one is a rebranded S7. The texture chisel is for spreading the overpriced basing material. If it's cheap I might get it to spread my liquitex texture around. Edit: 8 dollars is way too much. MasterSlowPoke fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 3, 2015 |
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May 3, 2015 03:11
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You should be proud of that streak free and perfect metallic coat.
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May 4, 2015 04:22
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Had to replace the nozzle on my airbrush for the first time. Poor thing was all beat up, I'll have to take better care of the new one. It brushes so beautifully now. After like 5 years of airbrushing I finally splurged and got a quick disconnect. It's neat, but how do I get air out of the tank when I'm done for the day? Do you just leave the air in there, or flush it out of the moisture trap?
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May 14, 2015 06:24
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Deanut Pancer posted:Be very careful about unscrewing those valves whilst there's any pressure in the system. They will fly out like a bullet and embedded in a floor/desk/wall/arm/face.  Badger didn't think of their demographic when they designed this. There's no way my hand can reach that thing comfortably. Also wow these things get dusty after like 4 years.
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May 16, 2015 07:18
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Drone posted:So I got my DV box set yesterday after hemming and hawing for a couple years about whether or not I want to get into this hobby. I finally bit the bullet and just did it, and so far I'm having fun putting the models together and painting a couple test Marines. Right now the only paints I have are the ones that came in the GW Starter Paintset (which apparently doesn't exist anymore on their webstore?). This includes: Ushabti Bone, Mournfang Brown, Imperial Primer, Mephiston Red, Agrax Earthshade, Caliban Green, Leadbelcher, and Ulthuan Grey. Like half of these have already started to dry out.. the Mephiston Red in particular, it has a huge dried-up ball of goo floating in the middle of the pot. Looks a lot better than my first Ork. That box isn't available anymore because they're in the process of replacing their brush line, and that had the old ones in it. Call GW and get those paints replaced though, that's inexcusable and not standard. Someone actually posted a step by step Dark Angels tutorial today, and it's pretty good. Uses a lot of paints you don't have yet though:  http://taleofpainters.blogspot.com/2015/06/tutorial-how-to-paint-dark-angel.html Also, don't buy the Dark Angels codex until July.
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Jun 6, 2015 19:52
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Which extenders did you get?
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Jun 6, 2015 21:47
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Yeah you're a crazy man.
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Jun 11, 2015 03:36
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That Thunderhawk cannot be stable on that crappy camera mount. Nothing is ever stable on those.
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Jun 12, 2015 14:35
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That's the black goblin.
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Jun 16, 2015 04:08
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Just buy a big rear end jar of Black Lava from an art store and be set for years.
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Jul 9, 2015 05:28
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Yes. It's really nice through an airbrush. You'll have to clean the bejesus out of it afterwads though so you don't get rust. I would have a dedicated airbrush for spraying it. A single drop of water will ruin it. Just get one of the cheap chinese ones.
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Jul 9, 2015 22:03
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Yeah, super easy. I think I had one set rub off after a single use. You can see the faintest bit left on the yellow bottle:  Model Color and Game Color use a stronger ink. No idea why.
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Jul 17, 2015 22:37
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It smells like cancer and death.
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Jul 19, 2015 04:28
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Seriously, what are those bases made out of? Smooth off the rim and paint it black, that will frame the base and make it look less weird. I'd also go for a less saturated brown. You also need to paint the stones. They'll look less like nuts on chocolate.
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Jul 20, 2015 15:27
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Moola posted:How do I stop PVA glue from warping things like cardboard when it dries??? Put PVA glue on the other side and hopefully the warps cancel each other out. Not joking.
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Jul 24, 2015 15:44
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What's a good source for Silflor Grass Tufts in the US?
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Aug 4, 2015 23:33
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$11 flat rate shipping!
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Aug 5, 2015 05:04
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It dried before hitting the model, the only way to fix it is to strip it, unfortunately.
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Aug 19, 2015 05:33
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Hasslefree might have something. I know there's a dude matching that description in the Mars Attacks game but he's holding a raygun.
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Aug 20, 2015 03:58
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I Am The Scum posted:Can that black lava stuff be used straight as asphalt? Yeah, I use it as asphault on my Deadzone duders: 
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Aug 26, 2015 16:48
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If you're looking to reinvest in paints, this store is selling the Vallejo Model Color/Model Air 72 paint sets for $150, which is a fairly good deal for those sets. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/weekly_email_specials.asp Put the code DL15 in at the top of the page and it'll reflect when you go to checkout.
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Aug 31, 2015 22:14
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Avenging Dentist posted:Right, but I'm more concerned with making sure that the model has consistent colors all over, since I like painting way more than I like playing (but I also want to varnish so that I can play). I've been playing with unvarnished metal models for 5 years now and nothing is chipped.
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Sep 2, 2015 03:33
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:48 |
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Indolent Bastard posted:The blue wash helps, and why do your look white while theirs still looks grey? SRM's photos have worse white balance than the expensive studio images. Your mind is filling in what you think it should look like.
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Dec 2, 2015 05:57
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