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Well, on the plus side, it looks like you could smuggle a LOT of drugs in there.
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Jan 18, 2016 22:17
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:56 |
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Let me know when you get the CBX gas tank ready to go...I'm looking forward to that project 
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Feb 15, 2016 22:44
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Use a chemical paint stripper to take off the paint. Any kind of abrasive method (e.g. wirewheel) will ruin the look of the bare metal. Soda blasting *might* strip the paint off well enough without changing the surface, but chemical stripping is cheaper and easier if you can handle the toxicity. Once you're down to the bare steel, scour it gently with a brass brillo pad to take off any surface rust, and immediately coat it liberally with Gibbs oil. http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/ It'll keep the metal from flash-rusting, and it can be painted over. If you want to do any polishing or finishing at this stage, make sure to keep oiling any newly exposed metal. Finish up with a 2-part urethane or epoxy clearcoat. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jul 24, 2016 |
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Jul 24, 2016 03:43
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Slim Pickens posted:You've had zero issue with Gibbs oil and a 2-part clear over top of it? That's pretty drat useful. I'll admit I have never used it on automotive parts exactly like that. I have painted over the stuff, though -- I give the metal a basic wipedown with acetone to take off any dust and fingerprints on the surface, but I don't soak it in degreaser or anything like you would with WD-40. I assume any clearcoat that is suitable for bare metal (2-parts are going to be the strongest on an unprimed surface) will work just as well over Gibbs. Does a great job of keeping the metal clean, though. I have a friend who races hot rods on the salt flats and he swears by the stuff.
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Jul 26, 2016 07:12
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Just a heads-up: body and finishing work is probably the most time-consuming and painstaking work you can do to a motor vehicle. Consider what you're getting into. "Aircraft remover" is the most powerful and effective paint remover I know of. Stripping the paint off means removing and draining the gas tank, putting it in a big rubbermaid container, and sponging/brushing on the chemical (wear elbow-length gloves and eye protection!). After the paint starts to bubble up and peel, you can scrub it off the rest of the way with a nylon brush and water. Depending on how good the original paint was, you might have to put a second coat on. The used paint remover sludge should technically be treated as hazardous waste, but if you let it all evaporate it just kind of turns into gross chunky dust that you can probably put in the regular trash. You decide if you can do that in the street where you are or not. Certainly you can do it in the back yard, though. Flush the inside and outside of the stripped tank off really well with water, then dry it with a towel and immediately coat with a protective agent. If you re-apply the Gibbs every month or so, you may never have to do anything else to keep it from rusting (the inside will be pretty well protected by the gasoline). Clear-coating the tank is a whole other story; if you want that effect, and you only have the street to work in, I would skip doing it yourself and take it to a professional. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 22:14
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You can machine glass-filled nylon with carbide tools. Make a Solidworks model of the guide and get it CNCd from a blank.
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Dec 28, 2016 18:24
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:56 |
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Evap-O-Rust is the greatest stuff ever invented. Don't know what it'll do for varnish but it will strip the rust out of that like nothing else.
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Mar 1, 2017 02:54
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