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My god. gently caress Finland. So many ridiculous jumps, and do the trees really have to be that close to the road? And that unannounced square right turn on the last stage, gently caress that too. (Yes I did just spend a solid hour continuously stacking my car into a variety of trees.)
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Nov 20, 2015 08:20
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OK so I think I'm legitimately bad at this game. I just upgraded to the 70s Ford (Fiesta) and I can't even get through a shakedown without having at least one off. (the fact it's RHD after the Lancia which was LHD doesn't help, but I suspect the far bigger problem is my driving)
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Nov 21, 2015 11:39
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Praseodymi posted:If I'm thinking of the right cars, the biggest difference will be going from front wheel drive to rear. I find the biggest problem is that you can't just jam the throttle to pull you through corners, because in a RWD car you'll just oversteer and end up facing backwards. Yeah, it's also from FWD to RWD (Lancia Fulvia => Ford Escort Mk II). That said, it's simply not wandering off the road that's the challenging bit for me at the moment.
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Nov 21, 2015 12:18
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bUm posted:The 70's Escort is alright and probably one of the easier 70's drives; I'd break down easiest to hardest as: Fiat 131 > Escort ≈ Opel Kadett >> Lancia Stratos. I said come in! posted:That is okay! You will be bad and you should always feel bad about being bad at this game. That said, Dirt Rally is the Dark Souls of racing games, I say that unironically. This is a very hard sim and takes an absurd amount of practice. The learning curve is steep as gently caress and you should realize that you just really need to play a lot and be patient. Dirt Rally will poo poo on you for a long rear end time. Thanks guys. It took me all of the shakedowns and a long-rear end time of "less gas more brakes", but I managed to make it through a stage in Wales without going (excessively) off-road or getting upside down (exception: I clipped one embankment, did a double roll and landed on my wheels facing the right way), so yay progress? Also jesus christ RWD cars will get their rear end way out there at the drop of a hat, sheesh.
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Nov 22, 2015 13:23
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Oh wow. After pretty much hating every minute of the Cosworth RS500 (80s) but still doing well enough to place third in Professional, I bought myself a 2011 WRX STI. I think I'm in love. Thing travels faster than bad news and stops on a dime. Also pleasantly oversteery but generally goes where I want it to. I still stack it into logpiles in Wales because gently caress Wales, though. And gently caress Monte Carlo too, who thought it was a good idea to put the grippiest surface and the slipperiest surface in the same stage 8 goddamn times in the same rally?
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Dec 22, 2015 13:07
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Edmond Dantes posted:After a couple championships on the E3 Evo to get a feel for RWD driving I got enough money and decided to try a 4WD car, and I went for the 2011 WRX STI. Man, it's a loving pleasure to drive after being in fishtail county with the E3. I find with the WRX I screw up far less often, but when I do gently caress up it's spectacular. Missed a left 4 (or something relatively easy) after a long straight in Germany and rolled it 11 times, as an example. But yeah, it climbs into sixth gear real fast and it seems like the handling gets a bit touchy when you're getting up toward top speed. (I should probably try a Group B RWD car for touchy handling, but I'm not that masochistic yet...) The other tricky bit is the Finland jump-into-immediate-turn trick, if you get the angle microscopically wrong you're going to meet a tree or a ditch.
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Dec 27, 2015 12:17
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Finally manned up and bought a Lancia 037. Oh god.  I'm now stacking it into trees even faster and with even less control than I've ever had. edit: This car is mean. 
Thel fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Dec 30, 2015 |
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Dec 29, 2015 23:59
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Finally finished Masters Wales in my Lancia 037. I don't know if my sphincter will ever unclench. 
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Jan 2, 2016 01:06
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If anyone's trying to do the daily today (Peugeot 205 through Kontinjarvi at night) - it's like ice skating with a rocket engine on your back. At night. And the ice has jumps as well. (I made it halfway through the stage before forcibly introducing the engine block to a tree...)
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Jan 3, 2016 13:53
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So I've been playing for a while (like 200 hours played, have won Masters championships a couple of times) and recently discovered I was driving with full traction control. I took it off and god drat, so much wheelspin. I can even make the frigging Hyundai i20 fishtail if I'm not careful, and the less said about me trying to drive the Evo 2, the better. (The only time I get that thing going straight is when I'm heading straight for the trees...) Do I just need to retrain myself not to go full hamfist on the throttle all the time, or is there more to it? edit: to be fair, I don't think I can blame lack of traction control for this one: http://gfycat.com/AdorableIdioticFlee Thel fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Aug 27, 2016 |
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Aug 27, 2016 04:23
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njsykora posted:Retrain is right, without TC you're gonna have to get the differential dialled in to handle your style or be more careful getting on the power. Well I think either way I can't be all "full throttle is the only throttle" any more. However - can you expand a bit on the diff settings? I've typically been going with an extremely loose diff (and negative camber + positive toe), should I be reeling all those in a bit?
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Aug 27, 2016 05:30
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So I've started doing the monthly and have run into a hilarious bug where running two clean stages still brings my radiator back to zero. I did have a pretty bad off on Hamelahti (that huge jump with the house on the right - I landed on the bank and flipped in all the different directions possible) - if DR had a realistic damage model that would've been the end of my rally, but that's a different discussion. Servicing after that big off, my radiator was at ~50%, I repaired it to ~90%, and since then it's been: - run two clean stages, radiator light will come on after ~2 sectors, engine light will come on after ~6 sectors (with the codriver very helpfully saying "we're losing coolant", "temps are sky-high", "are we down on power?" etc.) - pull in for service, repair radiator from 0 to 90%, engine generally gets topped up to 90% too. I've tried going over-time to push them both to 100% - I've also driven ultra-cautiously (never over-rev, brake before jumps so I don't leave the ground) and neither of those works - my radiator just gives up within 5km. Anyone experienced this? e: this is with the 205 T16 Evo 2, I also saw something similar with the MG Metro 6R4 in a single event once (also on Finland). e2: I guess the next test is to take the 205 back out on a single event without going full spacko and see if not ever seriously damaging the radiator means it won't decide to break itself. Thel fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Sep 14, 2016 |
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Sep 14, 2016 03:24
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I LIKE TO SMOKE WEE posted:That said, there is a I attempted to go full "if in doubt, flat out":  Maybe I should've had less doubt about when to brake....
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Sep 16, 2016 08:32
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Special Event Today & Today Only to remember Colin McRae
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For anyone considering doing the wager event today - it's a trap. Lancia 037 Evo 2 in Sweden. I only got it upside down once, but let's not talk about the number of times I went beyond sideways.
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Oct 25, 2016 12:09
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cool new Metroid game posted:bought this a few days ago and I'm bad at rally. also my co-driver called a left 5 when gently caress off was it a 5, almost wrecked my car. I may have swore out loud at the wanker. There's a few corners that are harder than their numbering suggests - and there's a reason for that. Recce runs are done at road car pace, and the number of a corner is based off how far you have to turn the wheel (while travelling at 30mph or whatever), and that doesn't really take into account the actual level of grip you're going to get (and the pace you're coming in with). So if you've got a long straight, then a left 5 over crest, you probably need to treat that like you would a left 3, because otherwise you're going to get air over the crest and then wreck some spectators. Or if you're in Germany, you'll wreck yourself on a hinkelstein (one of those standing stones by the road). At least they've fixed the worst ones over time - there was one square right in Finland that wasn't called at all originally. Now, nearly all of the nastier corners have additional verbiage around them ("caution", "double caution", "over crest", "jump into immediate left 4", etc.) -- so just listen to all the codriver calls, not just the raw number. Final tip - smooth is slow, slow is fast. The biggest improvement in your time will be slowing down to the point where you never spin out, roll, or go off road. And while the sideways sliding action is great fun and at least half the reason I play Dirt Rally, it's actually faster to brake before the corner, get your car pointed in the right direction, then accelerate after you've got the car pointing in the right direction.
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Oct 31, 2016 00:16
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Yeah that's pretty normal. Especially if you chose simulation mode. Also the starter cars are total rear end, and the default tunes are understeery as hell (which also plays into the starter cars because FWD cars with understeer are roughly as fun as punching yourself in the genitals repeatedly). To fix going from Dirt 3 to Dirt 4 sim driving: slow the gently caress down. Like, seriously, drive like grandpa taking a driving test. You might gain quarter a second per corner by going maximum attack, but forcibly introducing your radiator to a tree will lose you 10+ seconds. Also pace notes don't indicate ascending or descending corners (descending corners being a far bigger problem most of the time), so for a start I'd drive to what you can see rather than what your codriver is telling you (particularly around blind crests/corners). To fix the rear end tunes: 1-1.5° negative camber (both front and rear), no toe, lower the braking force and adjust the bias forward (if you understeer under heavy braking, push the bias back a couple of notches), loosen the diffs (if you have a 4WD with adjustable centre diff, start with a 50/50 torque split and adjust from there). For springs/damping, I generally go +10mm (and soften springs/dampers by about the same amount) on Australia/Wales/Sweden, 0mm Michigan, -10mm (with harder springs/dampers) in Spain. Anti-roll bars I generally leave where they are, unless I'm trying to make the back end get out around turns and don't have adjustable torque split, then I soften the front and harden the rear ARB.
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Jul 17, 2017 00:48
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Laserface posted:Does anyone consider the WRC games to be good? Every time I try a demo it seems like trash controlwise. That's because they are. WRC games are arcade-y enough to put sim drivers off and sim-y enough to put arcade drivers off. Co-driver notes are about the same quality as dirt 4 (note this is not a ringing endorsement because dirt 4's notes are one of it's weakest points IMO) and graphics are a lot more hit and miss than either DR or D4 (which is to say some bits of the WRC games are beautiful, then other bits are just a bit average). Also, no historic series cars. On a side note I went back to driving a R5 car after completing the historic series using a Delta S4. R5 cars feel like a casual jaunt down to the supermarket by comparison.
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Jul 24, 2017 01:14
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After driving the 205 through a 15-kilometre Spanish stage with rain so heavy it was effectively fog (as well as absolutely destroying the surface grip), I can confirm that Group B cars are powered by the consumption of human souls.
Thel fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 11:31
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Dirt 4 now has clubs, like it should have from the start. Anyway, anyone up for a goonclub?
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Dec 6, 2017 23:50
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Norns posted:Did they add any new track bits to the generator yet? None that I've heard mentioned or seen.
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Dec 7, 2017 00:04
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 02:17 |
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I'm also back with Dirt Rally. Dirt 4 simply can't match throwing an Alpine A110 around (and occasionally off) Greek hairpins.
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Jan 13, 2018 20:04
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