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 Okay think I'm getting my head around the tracking systems on this thing.
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Oct 12, 2019 05:12
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They can be fooled by lasers, so watch out.
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Oct 13, 2019 02:40
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 But first..... Paging Iospace, it's kitty time!   So anyway decided to stop into the WReckX and have a ponder about life   Annnnd.... actually got to work!   Just need to disengage the clutch and the motor can come out  - oh and here what the new camera's full sized image is like. It's kinda silly
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Oct 27, 2019 10:48
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Good cats. Also, do the rally cars need cats or is there some special exemption?
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Oct 27, 2019 15:11
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iospace posted:Good cats. For a moment I was confused as to what kind of cat. Depends on the age of the car and also level of competition. So for instance WRC? Yes, you must have a cat converter. Older cars in historic? No. Also depends on your fuel too. Cars running exclusively E85 I believe could be exempt.
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Oct 28, 2019 01:02
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Lets see... 1) Yellow WRX drove again at least in the driveway - gotta update on that 2) WReckX has had a few bits and pieces done. 3) The RX2 has a new motor and moved under it's own power 4) The AWD BRZ is in the workshop for a STI v9 motor 5) We now have a weight figure for the BRZ in FULL trim and with a full tank of 1350kgs. That means it's tapping on the door of the 1300kg class weight limit with a empty tank - for a comparison the WRC Tank was 1560kgs. So the plan is drop it below 1300kgs and then ballast it up. 6) I havent seen the rear of the BRZ for a while and..... well its now a mind gently caress under there. The suspension has a considerably longer range of movement now and it's using a 2011 WRX rear end. 7) Good thing it wont cost me *any* money other than doing a headgasket job because....... *sigh* The wife should know first so bear with me
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Nov 18, 2019 10:44
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What did you buy?
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Nov 18, 2019 21:52
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Darchangel posted:What did you buy? Is it buying when you are gettiing it for free abeit doing a set of headgaskets in exchange?
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Nov 18, 2019 21:58
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Okay then, what did you acquire?
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Nov 18, 2019 23:07
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Dagen H posted:Okay then, what did you acquire? What he said.
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Nov 19, 2019 00:04
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If you
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Nov 19, 2019 00:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you Good point I guess? Dagen H posted:Okay then, what did you acquire? pooooooooooooooooooooooooooossibly a Subaru?   JFC why do I keep doing this
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Nov 19, 2019 01:05
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Engine donor?
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Nov 19, 2019 01:14
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Wrar posted:Engine donor? And then some. Rebuilt gearbox with stronger internals, VF24, Link V3 ECU and a bunch of other things to finish the red wagon
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Nov 19, 2019 07:51
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Spent all day dragging this around (The bushfire smoke is insane even for Australia. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck) And the other si...  Yeah it was a BIG wallop.  There's no saving it, the chassis is twisted. Which is a drat pity, it still drives really drat well and pulls great handbrake turns I guess there's only one real solution to be had here and that means WReckX gets a change of plans. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 12:34
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   Well, as you might have heard Sydney and surrounds are ringed by massive bushfires. Air so toxic I have to wear a P2 mask  First off the wagon- Dixie horns. Yeaaaaah that aint going any further. Plus utterly dead battery  Count me impressed that I was able to force the doors open at *all*. That car really stood up well to a massive impact - sure I had to take to the doors with a crowbar but the door mechanism still was working   Even that utterly trashed rear door. Find a way to work the interior door handle, a big fuckoff crowbar and they opened. Was kinda concerned the doors would be a lot harder to remove but... well that a good start CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 12:48
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 So today's goal was remove the passenger seat..... annnnnnd well that was a *slight problem given just how across the seat had been belted  Getting a spanner anywhere near the seat mount was a bitch  After a lot of cursing and finally violence the seat comes out and...... yeah those mounts are hosed  Doors off, front guard off.....  And that's a good start. I'll strip the doors for whatever parts I can get and throw them out and then work out the next angle of attack.
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Dec 8, 2019 10:41
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The wife is over here for Christmas so...... work on cars?  Transferring interior from the blue wreck to the WreckX  .... yeah it's "slightly" dry. No wonder the place around me is burning so hard  G O G G O .... yes it;s the Dart! (Goggomobil's!)  '27 rod   Engine / Gearbox out of the WreckX Good day. Havent been this productive in a while. And she likes working on cars.
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Dec 26, 2019 06:26
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 One engine bay ready to be stripped out. Wait wasnt I at this point two years ago???  Nightly Nopetupus spotted. And a BRZ  Stripping back the H6 annnnnd... yeah thats a problem given it's on the water crossover tube  Achieved today - new engine stand, mount H6 to engine stand, strip back H6 of ancillaries and also see if I can get the cam wheels off. Which much to my surprise all four are now loose. Those are usually pricks to remove. Aiming tomorrow to have the heads off the H6 and have most of the WReckX's engine bay cleaned out
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Dec 27, 2019 12:50
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 Off comes the second front engine cover plate (45 bolts later....)  And if you ever wondered what the cams of a EZ30 look like. Yes, the intake has a form of VVT  Annnnd.... the first part of my confusion sets in. No obvious signs of a blown head gasket. Huh?  First cylinder head bank. It's actually all a really good design and I understand why they force induct so well (Once the rods and pistons are tough enough to take it of course...)  Hmm... nothing obvious there either  Hmmmm...... maybe there's a sign with the brown water jackets?  Nothing obvious on the second cylinder head bank? So let me check the water lines coming out of the water pump and to the cylinder hea......  Oh. Well. gently caress. Thats not right at all. I think the real issue after all was a water line flow restriction and hence it just boiled away fluid....... Yeah. Maybe H6's dont have a head gasket issue as such after all but they have a corrosion buildup issue? CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Dec 28, 2019 |
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Dec 28, 2019 13:03
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You know.... with the way NSW is going, you could insure all your cars for basic fire and theft and then wait a week and wind up with enough cash to buy a house!
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Dec 28, 2019 13:45
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Ferremit posted:You know.... with the way NSW is going, you could insure all your cars for basic fire and theft and then wait a week and wind up with enough cash to buy a house! I assume insurance in Australia expects that Subarus will catch fire sometimes.
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Dec 28, 2019 16:26
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I assume insurance in Australia expects that Subarus will catch fire sometimes. I have a cunning plan: 
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Dec 29, 2019 01:48
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madeintaipei posted:I have a cunning plan: AWWW YISSS I gotta talk to Kakermix about this 
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Dec 29, 2019 01:56
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:AWWW YISSS Somebody bid a ton for one that still had all the equipment a few months ago. Probably somebody trying to fight fires in California.
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Dec 29, 2019 02:15
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 Thats what you get after stripping two damaged doors for any useful parts.  .... Annnnnnd beginning the process of stripping it all back again  And the interior too. Feels like I got a lot done thanks to the wife helping. Yep she's fully onboard with this car stupidity and it was fun teaching her the basics 2020 GOAL - GET THE WRECKX ACTUALLY GOING (LOLNO)
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Dec 30, 2019 11:13
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Is that an early or later EZ30? Early ones (like my 2004) have a single exhaust outlet, which is fine if you're going to turbo it, according to Turbo Yoda, but poo poo for NA flow. Later ones (I believe it's '06 or later) have 3 separate exhaust ports - much better for building custom headers. On mine, the collector is basically in the head, so my only option for improving exhaust is a muffler and maybe larger piping. Thankfully, I didn't buy it as a performance vehicle. Honestly, it's got decent power, if only I could get into the transmission programming and make it less squishy/early shifting, it would be quite a bit more fun.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:40
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Later so triple port. Which probably means I'll head down the supercharge route eventually once I fix the heads
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Dec 31, 2019 23:28
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Neat! I'd love to turbo our Outback just for shits and giggles once it's not a daily driver. Would have to figure out management, of course, and deal with emissions testing...
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Jan 2, 2020 22:58
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 More out of the engine bay Okay so mostly I know what I'm doing and have long experience. However I'm heading to a point here where my knowledge and skills are very much lacking and that is Body Work. I suck at it badly and I dont know what I'm doing when we get past the brute force work of welding, taking apart panels carefully with spot welding drilling and poo poo like that. I know very little about paint prep and I cant really spray for poo poo. So what I want to do here is get this engine bay repainted. I have a hazy idea I need to clean, prep and then get the colour I want to it but I'm fairy certain I *dont* want to just paint with a spray can or a paint brush - I'd like to redo the engine bay properly. Like what the best way to get the engine bay actually clean? What about the existing paint? I'm pretty sure just bombing it with paint stripper wont exactly fly here. AKA I would like to repaint without being bodgy. Do it the first time right - not show car quality but something that looks decent. Ideas? Hints?
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Jan 6, 2020 11:27
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Well, an engine bay is a great place to start spraying, because, usually, it doesn't need to be perfect. Spraying is actually fairly easy once you learn how to set the gun, and certain techniques (like, not waving the gun, but keeping it consistently parallel to the panel, and moving at a steady, consistent speed.) For an engine bay, you could probably get away with using a smallish detail gun. You would definitely want to turn the paint flow down on a full-size gun, I think, due to all the nooks and crannies and irregular surfaces, as opposed to typical exterior panel spraying. As for cleaning, on my RX-7 (which, I will say, has NOT been painted yet!) I went with copious amounts of "purple" cleaner/degreaser, some hand scrubbing with a brush in the really greasy, grody bits, and a pressure washer, also initially with a little purple cleaner in the solution tank. In my case, I've got a fair amount of peeled paint, and therefore surface rust in the battery and brake/clutch master cylinders area, so that needed a good sanding, and will be sanding the remaining paint to give the new paint some bite. Also, to feather edge the paint to where there is no paint. I'm going to use an epoxy primer/sealer to hopefully keep the chemicals from stripping the paint down to the bare metal again, and to keep any rust at bay/contained, then using a catalyzed urethane single stage paint, also for toughness. In your case, it looks like the original paint is still in decent shape. Factory paint is an excellent base, you just need to degrease the heck out of it, and scuff it sufficiently to make the new paint stick to it. You can get decent result with a spray can. The main problem with spray cans is the (lack of) quality of the paint that's in them, and the relative lack of control over flow and spray pattern. Some of the same techniques apply, though. I've gotten some really good paint jobs on small pieces out of spray cans. Prep matters just as much either way. More than the actual paint job, really. The prep part is the tedious bit. Degrease and scrub until there's no schmoo left. Then sand a bunch, in every little crease, nook, cranny, edge, bit, and piece. That will take days, or more. The spray will take 15-30 minutes. BTW, you have plenty of spare body panels about, including an entire bent car. Practice on it a bit before letting loose on a car you care about. PAinting is really something that takes some practice to figure out. I've only used my cheap Harbor Freight HVLP a few times, but I've been painting stuff, including a lot of model cars with spray cans and airbrushes since I was a kid. When I was out of work for a month a while back, I decided "gently caress it" and resprayed the upper half of my '90 RX-7 with Rustoleum satin black - an oil based definitely-not-automotive paint - because the clear coat had failed, and I had some surface rust taking over various horizontal surfaces. It came out wildly better than I expected. I made sure to wipe it down with solvent to get any grease or wax off, sanded it all over with, as I recall 120 grit, maybe down to 240 grit, feather-edging any actual chips or missing paint areas, masked from just above the door handles down, thinned the Rustoleum a bit, and let fly. I figured it really couldn't be worse than what I had. Before: I forgot about the front fenders and hood being from my blue car...   The hood is half-sanded in these pictures.   (roof was previously painted with Rustoleum satin black from a spray can. No where near thick enough, obviously.)  Alo some missing paint and surface rust around my hatch. Sanded, and partially masked:    (neat bronze or brass brazing there on the seam between the left quarter and the rear panel) Since the fenders were a darker color, and the hood had a lot of bare metal, I primed them, and the bare metal around the hatch and on the roof.  BTW - primer is a good practice medium for paint - it's very forgiving of technique, since it flat, and usually heavier, and pretty easy to sand off if it goes badly. Masked up for the color coat:   (yes, there's a dent on the right quarter that I never got around to fixing... I meant to get a stud gun to pull that out eventually.) Don't forget PPE:  Aaaaand, boom!:   It just took some fiddling about with the paint flow and fan settings, spraying onto a piece of cardboard to get a setting I liked for the speed I wanted to move. You use a nice, wide fan for the bulk of the panels, and then narrow it down for detail work, and things like the a-pillars. Given all the other stuff you've done, I bet you could pick this up. Honestly, of all the body working skills, the spray is probably the easiest. I'd rate beating out dents and getting a panel straight *much* harder. I'm working on that part myself. It's a bitch, if you don't cheat and use a ton of filler. Welding in new stuff, on that thin sheet metal is also something of a bother. Get a cheap-to-mid-price spray gun and practice on a wheelbarrow or something. Anything metal. This is assuming that you have enough air compressor to run a spray gun - that's the real catch. Even an HVLP requires a decent compressor, but not quite as much as the old high-pressure siphon guns. I have no idea what the Australian equivalent to Harbor Freight would be, but I was very surprised at how well their US$12 HVLP gun worked. I'll have to see how well it handles actual glossy automotive paint, but it did the Rustoleum fine. I presume that you folks have some sort of importer of cheap 
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Jan 7, 2020 00:40
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Geez thats a lot to think about. Thanks! (Well if I want to do this properly.........)  Local pet store has rescue kittens! It's a Goode Shoppe as it ONLY has rescues. Dont support pet farms. Maybe I should do fostering of kittens again?  Watching someone else clean the Levorg  Been nearly two years since a proper top to botton clean and polish / interior clean. Looks new again!!! (Annnnnnnnd guess what? The next day it starts to drizzle and we have for the first time in nearly a year got a week of rain a coming...... the irony hasn't escaped me and especially with this unbelieveable drought and fires.... which the one of most worry since OCTOBER?!?! is finally listed as contained. Truth is, it's basically run out of poo poo to burn. There's only 15,000ha out of 550,000 to the north left untouched. JFC 2.7% of the forest north untouched)  Well. All that wiring I spent so long putting in has come back out of the WReckX  More spares:?  Engine bay basically now clear and holes taped.  And interior also likewise stripped at the firewall  And even cleared the downstairs room so I can actually DO something in there. Like put in more spares Seems like I finally got some desire to get this drat wagon up and going properly
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Jan 12, 2020 10:25
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Bookmarked; thanks for bringing me here Cat Interceptor!
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Jan 20, 2020 01:33
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Professor of Cats posted:Bookmarked; thanks for bringing me here Cat Interceptor! I shall note to post moar cattes. Which I should anyway given half the moderation team that lurk or post here are here for cattes. (HI iospace, moar kitties will be coming) OP note - there is another Subaru coming in this thread. It is not mine. It will NOT be mine. I am doing some repairs to it. It is the price I paid for the blue wagon that I'm pulling apart. I stress, I do not want the drat thing. I don't want it here except for how long the fix takes. I don't have the money for it and I have zero desire to spend a cent to accquire it. If you lot want more Cat Interceptor buys another broken Subaru with this one then YOU can send me the money and even then I will demand to be made IK of AI and then chain probate myself for a month as well, then make it faster than a STI around Eastern Creek full circuit - which is unbloodylikely to say the least because come on if someone is dumb enough to pony up then I'm going for max "Yeah nah mate". If I *do* accquire this shitbox outside of that then I expect ban+7.  me because no. Just goddamn no I have too many long term projects.Honestly, I just want a boring life for a bit and actually get that drat WreckX going. No more loving Subarus FFS. CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 10:56 on Jan 22, 2020 |
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Jan 22, 2020 10:52
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<next post> Hey guys, I bought a Subaru!
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Jan 22, 2020 23:56
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More accurate: hey guys, I bought that Subaru And another!
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Jan 23, 2020 05:01
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 Answering question - yes cars do rust in Australia. It's barely surface and thats pretty much it on a 23 year old shell NOT MY loving SUBARU  So apparently severe overheat / headgaskets. Car wont start at all and seems to be down compression so.... that's not a good sign   Uhhh ... the hell is this flakey white poo poo? And why did it look like cloth on the overflow bottle tube? The radiator looks suspiciously new too. I'm taking a guess before the guy bought it someone was battling overheating issues and put in head gasket stop leak? Or they used eggwhite.... gee if that was used that's taking me back a loooooooooooooooooooooong way as I haven't seen that tired for decades. Common used car trick before sale that fell out of favour as engines just simply got better.I would have thought no one remembered that one Well the basics - 2005 Outback, 3.0R auto. 225K. NOT MY CAR. If the engine is a bad as I think it is.... 3.6 swap? Which I am lead to believe is a swap that just works....? https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5282183&postcount=191 Maybe yes? CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Jan 25, 2020 |
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Jan 25, 2020 12:18
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I would assume egg white would smell really bad by now if it had been rotting on that radiator fan housing for a few days...?
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Jan 25, 2020 17:57
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I would assume egg white would smell really bad by now if it had been rotting on that radiator fan housing for a few days...? I think anything that could stink gets utterly roasted to hell and back / broken down in the process It appears it is probably HG stop leak and dealer added. Glad to see used car dealers are still scum and just hide car problems from unsuspecting people. Some things just never change
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Jan 25, 2020 22:38
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So lets pull this motor down.... Not toohard at all.... but 4/6 I think have some onimous signs  That isnt dirt near 6. Thats chemi-weld. Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit  BRX COCK TEASE TIME   KITTIES And now to today... which was utterly hosed up hot and humid. 59C in the garage with humidity meant a lot of shirt changes, sweat raining in the garage and frequent trips for chilled water    Plugs for 2,4 and 6. Notice there appears to metal particles on six. Called it at that point, just too bloody hot and sweat was basically becoming ridiclous (47C, 52C apparent outside didnt help matters. Yes, THAT hot with humidity. Fuccccccccccccccccccccccccck no
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Feb 1, 2020 11:25
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