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literally a fish posted:SBC enthusiast goons! I know at least one of you has to have a set of Vortec 5700 (1996-2002, the Gen1 SBC 5700, not the LS one) heads (and an intake) lying around somewhere. If I'm lucky, maybe you even had the guide bosses machined to raise the max valve lift! Did you edit in the bit about the L31 intake manifold bolt angle being different? I was about to point that out. There were some TBI Vortecs in Express Vans, but the only time I've seen one in a yard the manifold was already pulled. Maybe you'll have luck. Might as well just yank the heads at the same time, pick n pull usually has several Vortec trucks in the yard.
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Jan 4, 2016 06:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:If this was 10 years ago I'd have been able to hook you up with my used ones Like I said, I think the Express Van Vortecs were TBI. At least, that's what internet research yields. You're probably right that a 4-barrel intake plus an adapter is probably easier, though.
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Jan 4, 2016 07:11
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chrisgt posted:I don't really have a good grasp what's what with GM products. Someone will need to sperg me up a list of what to look for, or I can just go to the yard and take stock of what's there for late 90's trucks. I should be able to get a set of heads for around $50 '96 to '99 fullsize truck, or up to '02 in the vans. Looks like any other 350, but the Vortec give-away signs are:
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Jan 4, 2016 22:29
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literally a fish posted:I need the valve covers too, as it turns out. I think these might have roller lifters too which could theoretically be useful. Oh yeah, good point. If you grab the spider and dogbones from the lifter valley, you can drop that (with some new LS7 lifters and shorter pushrods) into any '86+ block and use a roller cam. Might need to drill and tap two holes, but eh. I guess if you're going for cheap instead of right, you could re-use the lifters and pushrods instead of replacing them. Would hate to wipe out a brand new cam from having a worn lifter though. Why do you need the valve covers? They should be the same on your '92 TBI motor.
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Jan 4, 2016 23:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:The lifters would be in the shortblock, not the heads, and again a '92 might already have roller lifters. I don't think so. IIRC, no trucks got roller lifters until the L31, but any block '86+ can take a roller factory setup. I think it's just so they could use the same blocks for the TPI cars.
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Jan 4, 2016 23:46
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literally a fish posted:Excellent. Raluek posted:If you grab the spider and dogbones from the lifter valley, you can drop that (with some new LS7 lifters and shorter pushrods) into any '86+ block and use a roller cam. Might need to drill and tap two holes, but eh. literally a fish posted:DEAR LORD WHY ARE ROLLER LIFTERS $400-1000?! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12499225/overview/ literally a fish posted:I was under the impression that roller lifters basically don't wear out, so it'd be OK to use them - awesome if true but if false not the first time the internets lied to me. I dunno. I have heard that if you're putting in a new cam you should do the lifters at the same time, and when I didn't do that the machine shop pointed out that my new cam had some premature wear on it from not putting new lifters in, but I dunno how much it actually matters. How long are you going to keep this beast? Raluek fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 00:22
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Roller cam:
Flat tappets:
So basically, it's a cost vs performance tradeoff.  I have a roller cam in my motor, which is pretty similar to yours (TBI roller-capable block with L31 heads and roller stuff added), but I have a carb on it. I used the LT4 hot cam and 1.6:1 rockers.
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Jan 5, 2016 01:13
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literally a fish posted:Flat tappet it is then :V Yeah I went with roller because it's my daily driver and I intend to keep it for awhile, whereas for something that you just want to make some noise for a few weeks I guess it doesn't matter. Although, this seems pretty affordable if you're not going to machine the valve guides. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-14097395/overview/ Raluek fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 01:25
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Ozmiander posted:it's ok, he can get Supertech from walmart and dump a bottle of zddp in it. Not like a 350 cares, lol. I just ran cheap Costco oil in the 327, so yeah I bet you could get away with a lot. But for initial break-in it probably matters. Not that he's going to own it long enough for it to cause any problems, lol
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Jan 5, 2016 23:18
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literally a fish posted:I think he thinks I'm going to sell it after my trip later this year. FEAR NOT, GOONS! As long as Wes has a backyard, I'm keeping it. Yeah I just figured you'd keep it for a trip or two, maybe drive it a couple thousand miles in total, and that it wouldn't really even get out of its break-in period by the time you were done with it. I'm glad that's not the case. Are you doing anything to the short block? Or are things pretty much solid there? Also, how well does the TBI and computer play with whatever radical cam you're going to shove in there? I assume that sound is more important to you than actual power?
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Jan 6, 2016 05:19
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:That is, until the turbo LS swap, right? Or will that be lopey as gently caress as well No turbo. Blower surge. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYwJlgf2KJM&t=37s
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Jan 6, 2016 06:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd say that's a perfectly AI suggestion because it might be cheaper than actually retrofitting the factory roller cam setup to the '92 block. The only possible downside is the L31 block will definitely not have any provision at all for a mechanical fuel pump. You know, for if the fuel injection magically falls off and you just have to slap a tunnel ram and a pair of four barrels on it. He doesn't want a roller cam, and if he did it's literally just the spider and 8 dogbones that you can pocket when you grab the heads. Plus, he's keeping the TBI, plus who wants to change a short block in a van when you can do just heads? If the van's short block is in good shape it's mechanically no different than the L31 anyway (assuming they both have the same number of mains bolts)
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Jan 7, 2016 20:23
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literally a fish posted:Both the L31 and the L05 are 4-bolt mains, the short blocks might as well be identical. Not necessarily, my L31 wasn't. I'm not sure which trucks get 2-bolt and which get 4-bolt.
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Jan 7, 2016 22:50
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literally a fish posted:Well that'll teach me to go stating things Mine was from a '97 Tahoe and had the spider injection literally a fish posted:The trans in the van is a non-electronic 700R4. Any reason I wouldn't be able to just bolt that to the back of an LM7? You can, with a flex plate adapter I think. But if you're swapping in an LM7, why not just get the trans its computer is already expecting? The mounts and overall length and such should be the same, right?
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Jan 8, 2016 00:12
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leica posted:Well yeah, I understand you choosing to being right there in the northeast yourself, but I didn't understand why someone in Texas wanted a drivetrain from up there. I had no idea they were that expensive in the south. Here in California, it's literally a race. The two times I've got a row52 search update telling me that a truck with an LM7 had hit the yard, I have had these experiences: Go to the yard a couple hours after they opened (because it was a weekend and I was sleeping; this is still right after I woke up) and both trucks (there were 2 that got added the same day) had a crew of dedicated dudes working on them and both engines were already in the air. The other time I was pulling an all-nighter working on a project for school, so I was still up and able to go to the yard before they opened. I joined a group of 3 other dudes or so, sitting in our cars, half an hour before they opened. As soon as they unlocked the doors, we all made a bee-line for the new LM7-having truck, and all left disappointed: the motor was already pulled. I saw it on the ground set aside for someone else, so an employee must have grabbed it. So yeah, depending on where you live, they can be easier or harder to find. If I wanted one, I'd have to look on LKQ or someone on car-part, and they're all 4 figures.
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Jan 8, 2016 21:49
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Have you considered a 1uz swap? 
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Jan 10, 2016 02:12
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literally a fish posted:AFAIK no truck L05 has a roller cam/lifter, but they're roller-ready. All the holes are drilled and tapped and everything, it all bolts right in. That's interesting. I don't see the bosses for the spider. What's the deal with that?
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Jan 17, 2016 23:46
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Ozmiander posted:They're flush, and partially filled with coolant jizz. Are you sure? The ones on the L31 are pretty prominent.  E: The tops of the lifter bores in the van's motor aren't machined flat, either. Weird.
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Jan 18, 2016 02:36
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Ozmiander posted:My bad, retarded. Yeah, it looks like some of the TBI motors don't have roller provisions. I thought that all '86+ motors had 'em, but I guess not. Especially as late as '92, I would have expected them to have run out of old production non-roller blocks. The motor in my car right now is a late 80s TBI block with the L31 roller stuff put onto it, and it's definitely different than that van motor. 
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Jan 18, 2016 02:50
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literally a fish posted:Shamelessly stolen pic: Yeah. The casting numbers on the bellhousing flange would give a general idea, and the production numbers stamped onto the front passenger side cyl deck would tell you if it matches the van VIN. It's purely academic at this point, though!
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Jan 18, 2016 03:11
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DrakeriderCa posted:Jesus Christ, I wish SBC's/LSx's were that cheap here. If it's a '97 5.7, it's an L31 anyway. LSx's are probably a bit more valuable, although Kastein can get 'em for cheap anyway. I'm a bit envious, myself.
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Jan 31, 2016 06:53
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Ferremit posted:Look, you dumbarses chose the imperial system, loving stick to it. Dont be all english and mix the two up just for shits and giggles.... Soda comes in 2L bottles, so I'd imagine it's not as foreign as you think. Just not preferred. Plus, a liter is about a quart, right? 
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Feb 26, 2016 00:55
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literally a fish posted:LADIES AND GOONS HAVE YOU EVER WANTED TO BE ABLE TO CONSIDER YOURSELF RESPONSIBLE FOR AT LEAST SOME PART OF THIS INSANITY? TO LEAVE YOUR MARK ON THE WORLD AND MAKE IT JUST A TINY BIT STRANGER FOR THE LOW LOW PRICE OF LIKE $10.70 IN SOME CASES? Regarding your choice of swap mount plates, you might consider the sliding ones since your space is tight in there. Sliding the engine forward or backwards by a half inch might be helpful? Who knows.
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Mar 13, 2016 22:45
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literally a fish posted:Ja, it's not that i'm concerned about 250k on an LM7, it's that I'm sliiiiiightly concerned about 250k of abuse and neglect on a 4L60E and to a lesser extent the LM7 itself. Also, when you ask a motor that's gone 250k at 290HP and ask it to put out 450HP, it might get angry at you. Not necessarily, but you'd certainly run a higher risk.
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May 7, 2016 11:21
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kastein posted:I'll check if the O2 sensors were included (are they in the manifolds or Ypipe? I didn't notice) in the morning and see what else I can tell you. Y pipe, like 4" from the flange where it bolts to the manifolds.
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Jun 19, 2016 03:00
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kastein posted:https://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html mash the big red wiring diagrams button and have fun. Throws a certificate error, then 404s. 
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Jun 21, 2016 20:17
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iForge posted:Engine is on a pallet at absentmindedwelder's shop for the time being. The hitch basket is permanently bent but didnt look like it was about to fail to be honest. It is going in the dumpster regardless. Goodnight sweet prince. Oh, it's a 2000 with the iron heads. Gonna go grab some 5.3 heads for a little more compression and lighter weight? I always forget those iron ones exist.
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Jul 22, 2016 04:41
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literally a fish posted:I was told 2002. All LQ4s have iron heads, no? It has to be from the 2002 and older model years because from 2003-up they went flex fuel (injector change) and ethrottle, and those newer ones don't have a standard return-type fuel system with an integrated regulator Bizarre, I thought it was just 2000 (maybe some 99s also?). But I'm sure you've done more research than I have since it's your motor! E: Internet says that the iron head '99-'00 motors have a longer crankshaft than all the other LS motors, so that will be fun! I guess measuring the crank is one way to know for sure if it's a '00 down or a '01 up. That way you'd know for sure. Raluek fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 22, 2016 05:43
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literally a fish posted:It's a cam and a set of valve springs away from 400hp, i'm told By all indications, the iron heads perform just about exactly the same as the aluminum ones. Plus, I don't think Denmah has had any aluminum head casting failures, and if anyone was going to, he would. I think it's just a matter of weight (and maybe cooling).
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Jul 23, 2016 19:13
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Now that you're buying an already-driving vehicle with an LS-ish motor, how about all the money that you get from sale of van parts turns into speed parts for the Tahoe? You could trick it out pretty well considering you don't have to worry about how the motor is going to mate with the vehicle, etc. Start with heads/cam/springs/headers, end up with FI or nitrous or something if you have a budget surplus!
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Aug 8, 2016 06:07
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Put the V8 motor in the new vehicle that you buy from Craigslist. A Tahoe will already have an appropriate motor, though. Unless you mean dual-engine? He could upgrade a 4.8 or 5.3 truck to a 6.0, I suppose.
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Aug 8, 2016 08:54
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